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JOURNAL 


OP  A 

RESIDENCE  IN  CHINA, 


AND  THE 


NEIGHBORING  COUNTRIES, 


PROM  1829  TO  1833. 


BP 

DAVID  A^EEL, 

A MiailUr  of  the  Reformed  Dutch  Church  ia  North«America,  and  Miuionery  of  (he  AmOietB 
Board  of  CommissioDers  of  Foreign  MUsione  to  Soath'Foetern  Alia. 


NEW-YORK : ' 

PUBLISHED  BY  LEAVITT,  LORD  & CO., 

182  Broadway, 

BOSTON-CROCKER  & BREWSTER, 

47  Washington-street. 


1834. 


E>-tebed  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1834,  by_ 
Leavitt,  Loro  & Co.,  in  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of 
the  Southern  District  of  New-York. 


At  a Meeting  of  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of  the 
Reformed  Dutch  Church,  held  September  13th,  1834,  the 
following  resolution  was  adopted. 

The  Rev.  David  Abeel,  having  stated  that  he  had  in 
hand  a manuscript,  consisting  of  a journal,  observations 
upon  the  state  of  society  in  the  East,  wants  of  the  heathen, 
&c.. 

Resolved,  That  this  Board  forthwith  take  measures  for 
the  publication  of  said  manuscript,  under  the  immediate  in- 
spection and  agency  of  Mr.  Abeel. 

The  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of  the  Reformed  Dutch 
Church  was  organized  in  1832,  to  act  in  connection  and 
concert  with  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for 
Foreign  Missions.  Its  funds  are  paid  over  to  the  General 
Board,  to  be  directed  to  such  objects  as  may  be  specified. 


■ECOMMENDATORY  NOTE  OF  THE  REV.  ANDREW  REED,  D.  D., 
LATE  DELEGATE  TO  THE  CHHECHES  IN  THE  UNITED 
STATES. 

“ The  greater  part  of  the  following  work  was  read  to 
me  while  the  author  was  reposing  as  an  invalid  under  my 
roof,  and  I am  satisfied  that  it  is  not  made  unnecessary 
by  any  existing  publications,  valuable  as  those  publications- 
are.  It  is  indeed  my  sincere  opinion,  that  it  will  assist  in 
raising  the  tone  of  our  missionary  journals;  that  it  will 
contribute,  with  previous  and  present  efforts,  to  awaken  at- 
tention  to  the  claims  of  China,  and  of  the  world ; and  that  it 
is  therefore  to  be  hailed  as  an  auxiliary  to  the  churches  of 
Christ  in  the  salvation  of  mankind.  That  such  results  may 
arise  from  this,  and  a thousand  similar  contributions  in 
America  and  Great  Britain,  until  the  idol  gods  shall  be 
utterly  abolished,  and  the  name  of  Jehovah  adored  every 
where,  always  and  for  ever,  is  the  earnest  prayer  of  one 
who  deeply  believes  that  these  two  countries  are  mainly 
destined  to  accomplish  this  holy  and  sublime  purpose  ! 

‘^Andrew  Reed* 

“New-Yobk,  October  1,  1834.” 


1* 


41 


A 


PREFACE. 


The  writer  of  the  follo\ving  pages  went  to  Canton  un- 
der the  auspices  of  the  American  Seaman’s  Friend  Society, 
to  act  as  chaplain  to  seamen  and  foreign  residents  speak- 
ing  the  English  language.  He  took  with  him  a conditional 
appointment  from  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for 
Foreign  Missions,  in  case  he  should  consider  it  his  duty  to 
devote  himself  exclusively  to  the  heathen.  At  the  expira-  • 
tion  of  the  first  year,  he  left  China  on  a tour  to  some  of  the 
islands  and  continental  kingdoms  of  South-eastern  Asia,  with 
the  double  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  most  important  posts 
for  missions,  and  of  rendering  himself  useful  in  that  station, 

• which  presented  the  most  claims  upon  his  services. 

As  the  object  of  this  volume  is  to  inform  the  Christian 
world  of  the  state  of  these  heathen  countries,  the  writer  has 
extended  his  observations  much  beyond  his  travels,  and 
dra^vn  from  every  open  and  uncorrupted  source  the  infor- 
mation required  for  his  purpose.  What  he  has  seen,  and 
heard,  and  read,  as  far  as  the  testimony  appeared  credible, 
has  been  freely  appropriated.  A considerable  portion  of 
what  is  stated  has  been  derived  from  the  experience  and 
observation  of  his  fellow  missionaries,  resident  in  the  places 
which  he  vis  ted.  Of  them  he  has  said  as  little  as  possible, 
both  becausj  their  names  are  too  few  not  to  be  known,  and 
it  is  doubtful  whether  any  eulogies  from  one  of  their  num- 
ber would  be  of  advantage  to  themselves,  or  to  the  cause 
in  which  they  are  engaged.  The  same  silence  has  been 
observed  in  regard  to  many  individuals  and  families,  from 
whom  much  kindness  has  been  received,  and  towards 
whom  the  highest  regard  is  cherished. 


8 


PEEF  ACS'. 


An  interruption  of  the  narrative  of  events  to  insert  what 
appeared  worthy  of  notice,  as  well  as  an  introduction  of 
facts,  whose  knowledge  was  in  a few  instances  gained  after 
the  date,  under  which  they  are  recorded,  with  other  discre- 
pancies of  the  kind,  would  not  merit  a word  of  explanation, 
except  for  the  correctness  of  the  observations,  from  which 
they  might  be  thought  to  derogate.  It  is  to  be  regretted 
that  many  subjects  of  the  greatest  interest  have  been  either 
omitted  or  passed  over  with  a few  unsatisfactory' remarks, 
while  others  of  far  less  importance  have  been  inserted  in 
their  place.  The  omission  is  unavoidable,  owing  to  a 
dearth  of  information  on  these  points  ; observations  are  sub- 
stituted, from  the  hope  that  they  may  at  least  direct  atten- 
tion to  these  neglected  regions,  and  lead  to  measures  for 
their  farther  investigation  and  spiritual  benefit. 

As  many  deficiencies  will  be  detected  in  the  style  of 
this  work,  the  writer  would  offer  as  an  apology,  that  it  was 
written  under  all  circumstances  of  place  and  bodily  health, 
and  that  the  greater  part  of  it  he  had  neither  leisure  nor 
strength  to  write  a gecond  time.  A few  glaring  blunders 
in  grammar,  spelling,  and  language  have  been  detected 
after  the  sheets  were  printed.  These  would  be  placed  in  • 
an  errata,  but  it  is  thought  they  are  not  sufficiently  impor- 
tant, and  if  they  were,  people  seldom  trouble  themselves 
with  reading  erratas. 


CONTENTS. 


Chjip.  I. — Departure  from  New-York — Divine  service  on  board — 
Island  of  St.  Paul— Amsterdam— Sandal-wood  island— Ombay  pas- 
sage— Islands  of  Flores,  Solor,  Lomblem,  Ombay,  Timor,  Cara- 
bing.  Baby— Early  Catholic  missions  on  these  islands— Portuguese 
Xavier — Dutch  conquests — Missions — Zeal  of  early  missionaries — 
Declension  of  eighteenth  century— Present  mission  of  Dutch  on 
Timor,  Rotti,  Letty,  Moa,  Kesser,  and  Roma— Banda  sea  and 
island— Arroo  group,  Booro— Amboyna,  Mr.  Kam— Manippa — Ter- 
nati — Efforts  of  Netherlands’  missionary  society — New  Guinea, 
Waijoo — Plan  for  conversion  of  these  islands — Pelew  islands  and 
natives 14 

Chap.  II. — Chinese  fishing  boats — Formosa — Ladrone  islands — Chi- 
nese pilots — Lintin — Opium  trade — Macao — Description  and  history 
of  city — Catholicism — Superstitions — Passage  in  small  Chinese 
boat  to  Whampoa— Foreign  shipping— Objects  on  the  way — Night 
scene — Arrival  at  Canton— Dr.  Morrison 61 

Chap.  III.— Description  of  Canton  and  its  vicinity— Religions  of  China 
— Appearance  of  women — Beggars — Foreign  factories — Open  space 
before  them — Appearance  of  river— Crowds  of  boats— Island  of  Hai- 
nam — Chinese  temple — Chinese  merchants — Mode  of  speaking 
English — Men  and  women 93 

Chap.  IV. — Worship  in  English — Ah-see — Monthly  concert — ^Preach- 
ing at  Whampoa — Whampoa  island— French  do.  Danes  do.  Pro- 
cessions, burial,  hymenial  and  religious — Leang  Afa— Drama- 
Watune’s  day— Macao — Procession— Return  to  Canton— Houses  of 


.10 


CONTENTS. 


Hong  merchants— Illuminated  boats— Ceremonies  in  the  city  Ballad 
singing — Crowds  of  natives — Decorations  of  streets— god  of  fire  126 

Chap.  V. — Female  infanticide — Condition  of  women — Cruelty  of  pun- 


ishments— Number  and  condition  of  prisoners 133 

Chap.  VI. — Missionary  labors  at  Canton  and  Whampoa — Appeal  in 
behalf  of  China — What  ought  to  bC  done. 142 


Chap.  VII.— Passage  to  Java— Mode  of  dealing  with  sailors — American 
sailors — Impropriety  of  sending  boys  to  sea — No  object  gained — 
Cochin-China — Sumatra 151 

Chap.  \T1II. — Angier — Journey  to  Batavia — Travelling — Wildness  of 
country — Large  estate — Batavia — Mr.  Medhurst — Java  as  a mission- 
ary field — Population — Language — Chief  towns — The  missionary’s 
daily  labors — Chinese — Hospital— Market-places — Prison — Chinese 
new  year — Popular  deities — Infanticide  in  China— Visit  to  abazaar  in 
the  country  to  distribute  tracts — Interview  with  Cochm-Chinese — 
Catholicism  in  Cochin-China— Tour  to  another  market-place — Pro- 
testant Portuguese  settlement— Service  in  Dutch  church — Chinese 
sacrifice  at  the  graves  of  their  relatives — Chinese  ceremony  of  passing 
through  fire — Mission  schools — Malayan  do — Visit  to  Bitenzorg, 
the  residence  of  the  governor,  and  labors  there — Remarks  on  J ava  192 

Chap.  IX. — Passage  to  Singapore — Sumatra,  different  states — Cus- 
toms— Religion — Singapore — Missionaries — Passage  to  Siam  in 
company  with  Mr.  Tomlin — Arab  ship — Conduct  of  Mahomedan 
sailors — Coast  of  Malayan  peninsula— Passage  up  the  Memam — Ap- 

■ pearance  of  Siamese — Bankok — Disappointment  in  not  meeting 
Gutzlaff— Portuguese  consul — R.  Hunter,  Esq 208 

Chap.  X. — Description  of  Siam — City  of  Bankok — Variety  of  inhabit- 
ants— Enslaved  condition  of  multitudes,  their  misery  and  vice — Reli- 
gion of  Budh — Priests — Religion  of  Chinese,  Burmese,  Peguins,  Ma- 
lays, Portuguese — First  Protestant  missionaries — Visit  toPraKlaiig 
— Missionary  houses— Medical  depository— Native  simplicity — Visit 
of  Princes— Interesting  interview  with  priest— Other  priests— Canx^ 


C ONT  E N’T  S> 


bodjian  prince — Cambodjia  as  missionary  ground — Sacred  month — 
Illuminations — King’s  visit  to  the  temples — Splendid  procession  of 
barges — overflow  of  the  Meinam — Affecting  case  of  Chinese  youth 
— Sabbath  worshippers — Heathen’s  cruelty — Some  fruits  of  labor — 
Funeral  array — Splendid  temples  and  idols — Close  of  first  visit  to 
Siam — Caution  to  readers  of  missionary  journals 261 

Chap.  XI. — Passage  to  Singapore — Mr.  Thomsen — Description  of 
Singapore— Importance  as  mission  station— Printing — Schools — 
V'isit  along  coast — Passage  to  Malacca — Town  of  Malacca — Anglo- 
Chinese  college— Missionaries — Schools — Resident — Return  to  Sin- 
gapore-^E  mbarkation  for  Siam— China  junk— Straitened  apart- 
ments— Dull  passage — Sailors — Idolatry— Efforts  to  restrain  them — 
Tringano — Squall— Loss  of  Chinese  vessels — Degraded  inhabitantslof 
Malayan  peninsula — Arrival — Ignorance  of  heathen — Custom-house 
oflScers— General  view  of  second  visit  to  Siam — Supplying  Chinese 
junks  with  books — Missionary  labors — Little  congregation — Medical 
practice — Condition  of  some  patients — Conduct  of  servants — Con- 
vert of  Gutzlaff— Sacred  season — Prince  Chaw  Fah — Arrangement 
with  Prince — Swimming  child — Malayan  captives — Mode  of  preserv- 
ing dead — Superstition  in  regard  to  evil  spirits,  &c.— Interesting 
priest— Most  common  languages  of  Siam — Chinese  languages — Mode 
of  studying — Last  Sabbath  service — Appointment  of  expounder — 
Juthia — Chantibun — ^Note  containing  baptism  of  some  since..  319 

Chap.  XII. — Passage  to  Singapore — Visit  to  Rhio — Description  of 
Rhio — Death  and  character  of  Rev.  R.  Burn — Labors  at  Singapore 
— Illness — Embarkation  for  England — Changes  at  Singapore — 
Note 331 

Chap.  XHI. — Borneo — Foreign  settlers — Aborigines  called  Dyaks — 
Degradation  and  cruelty — Passion  for  human  heads — No  celebra- 
tion without  them — Ideas  of  religion — Brutal  condition  of  northern 
tribes — Borneo  as  missionary  ground — Dutch  station 342 

Chap.  XIV.— Celebes — Languages — Religion — Mandhaar — Mode  of 
life — Mamoojoo — Rajabs — Pirates— Missionary  station  under  Netfa. 
erlands  society— Island  of  Sooloo— Mindano — Palawan 35l 


12 


CONTENTS. 


Chap.  XV.— Philippine  islands — Spanish  possessions— Extent— Value 
— Inhabitants-i-Influence  of  Catholic  priests— Superstitions....  360 

Chap.  XVI. — Loo  Choo  islands— Number— Size— Scenery— Interest- 
ing inhabitants— Laws— Language— Religion— Gutzlaff’s  xhait- Im- 
portance of  having  missionary  ships 367 

Chap.  XVII.— Japan— Description— Towns— Laws— Language— Reh- 
gions — Labors  of  Jesuits 377 

Chap.  XVTII.— Conclusion— Talent  entrusted  to  Christians— United 
and  more  vigorous  efforts  necessary— Address  to  ministers  on  behalf 
of  missions— zeal  of  Jesuists—  Students  of  Theology— Importance 
of  Colonies— Address  to  physicians— Pious  merchants — Ladies— 
Wealth— All  classes— Necessity  of  co-operation  in  those  at  home — 
Mothers— Teachers— Description  of  St.  Helena— Visit  to  Europe  398 


CHAPTER  I. 


PASSAGE INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 

On  Wednesday,  the  14th  of  October,  1829,  the 
Rev.  E.  C.  Bridgman  and  myself,  bade  farewell  to 
friends  and  country,  and  embarked  in  the  ship  Ro- 
man, Capt.  Lavender,  for  Canton,  China.  The 
tedium  of  the  voyage  was  greatly  relieved  by  the 
society  of  four  fellow  passengers,  citizens  of  New- 
York.  Owing  to  calms,  and  a strong  opposing  cur- 
rent, we  were  detained  two  days  within  sight  of  the 
city. 

Early  on  Friday  morning,  we  left  our  anchorage, 
and  with  a light,  though  favorable  breeze,  stood  to 
sea.  The  wind  freshened  as  we  advanced,  and  be- 
tween eight  and  nine  o’clock,  the  return  of  the  pilot 
presented  the  last  opportunity  of  communicating  with 
shore. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  passage,  nothing 
occurred  which  is  not  generally  witnessed,  and  has 
not  been  frequently  detailed.  Divine  service  was 
early  commenced  on  the  morning  and  afternoon  of 
the  Lord’s  day,  and  social  worship  every  evening  at 

2 


14 


PASSAGE. 


the  change  of  the  watch.  As  no  compulsory  mea- 
sures were  employed  to  gain  the  attendance  of  the 
crew,  composed  of  a heterogeneous  company,  the 
number  of  worshippers  varied  with  their  fickle  incli- 
nations. Nothing  proved  so  efiectual  in  bringing 
them  together,  as  freqiient  visits  to  the  forecastle,  and 
• more  private  interviews  with  them,  when  disengaged 
in  their  night  watch  upon  deck. 

Nearly  three  months  elapsed  on  our  passage,  before 
we  enjoyed  a sight  of  land.  The  first  stable  object 
which  changed  for  a moment  our  wearisome  pros- 
pect, was  the  small  island  of  St.  Paul.  It  is  remark- 
able for  a pond,  which  furnishes  to  the  voyager,  a 
well  stored  larder,  and  a self-cooking  kitchen.  Fish 
which  are  taken  in  abundance  and  variety,  may  be 
thrown  from  the  hook  into  boiling  springs,  and  thus 
prepared  for  the  table,  without  trouble  or  expense. 
The  immense  distance  of  this  rocky  islet  and  its 
sister  Amsterdam  from  any  continent,  is  another 
peculiarity. 

On  the  25th  of  January,  Sandal-wood  island,  the 
first  land  made  in  the  eastern  passage,  was  descried. 
Before  the  island  appeared,  its  proximity  was  indica- 
ted by  large  land  birds,  resembling  eagles,  majestically 
sailing  in  the  air,  above  us ; and  butterflies,  or  wing- 
ed grasshoppers,  which  borne  on  the  breeze,  came 
and  lighted  upon  the  ship.  The  island  is  exten- 
sive, and  produces  many  valuable  articles,  though 


PASSAGE. 


15 


very  little  is  known  of  the  physical,  political,  or  moral 
condition  of  its  inhabitants.  No  attempts  have  been 
made,  by  Protestant  Christians,  for  its  conversion ; 
none  to  discover,  whether  with  its  populous  neighbors 
it  is  not  waiting  for  God’s  law. 

That  the  feasibility  of  establishing  missions  upon 
some,  or  all  of  these  islands,  might  be  readily  tested, 
is  evident  to  those,  who  have  sailed  almost  within  hail 
of  their  shores,  and  whose  timidity,  or  want  of  zeal, 
does  not  control  a laudable  spirit  of  Christian  enter- 
prise. Our  course  was  through  the  Ombay  passage, 
and  afforded  a view  of  the  islands  of  Flores,  So- 
lor,  Lomblem,  Pantar  and  Ombay,  on  the  left,  and  of 
Timor,  Cambing,  Baby,  and  probably  Wetter,  on  the 
right.  As  may  be  readily  supposed,  the  greater  part 
of  our  time  was  consumed  in  feasting  the  eyes  upon 
the  cheering  and  changing  aspects  of  land,  and  in 
suffering  the  imagination  to  expatiate,  where  it  would 
be  more  interesting,  and  probably  more  hazardous  to 
roam  in  person.  Since  it  wa.s  not  our  object  to  land, 
we  were  by  no  means  grieved  to  enjoy  the  coolness 
and  impetus  of  a fresh  breeze,  and  soon  to  leave 
these  smiling  spots  to  charm  the  hearts  and  eyes  of 
our  successors.  Numerous  huts  can  be  distin- 
guished on  the  hills  of  many  of  these  islands.  One 
of  our  passengers  on  a previous  voyage  was  becalm- 
ed a day  and  night,  within  a short  distance  of  Om- 
bay. In  addition  to  the  dwellings,  he  could  dis- 


16 


PASSAGE. 


cern  by  day,  fires  probably  for  cooldng,  were  lighted 
in  the  evening,  which  bespangled  the  shores  and 
hills  of  this  and  the  adjacent  islands,  and  indicated 
a considerable  population. 

How  far  the  Catholics  succeeded  in  their  early 
attempts,  to  diffuse  their  faith  through  this  part  of  the 
Archipelago,  or  to  what  extent  the  trophies  of  their 
ancient  zeal  may  still  exist,  where  commerce  has 
ceased  to  allure  the  European  trade,  it  is  quite  impos- 
sible to  determine. 

The  Portuguese  were  probably  the  first  who 
attempted  the  conversion  of  these  islands  to  nonfinal 
Christianity.  They  took  possession  of  the  colonies 
as  early  as  1510  or  soon  after,  and  commenced  at 
the  same  time  their  religious  operations ; but  there  is 
reason  to  believe,  from  authentic  records,  and  ex- 
istiilg  facts,  that  their  success  was  by  no  means 
answerable  to  the  latitude  of  faith  and  practice  gen- 
erally admitted  in  their  proselyting  policy.  Before 
the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  the  celebrated' 
Xavier  and  his  coadjutors  arrived  in  these  regions,  and 
displayed  those  wonders  of  superhuman  wisdom  and 
power,  by  which,  according  to  the  saint’s  biographer, 
thousands  were  forthwith  converted  to  the  true  faith. 
Near  the  close  of  the  century,  the  Dutch  dispossessed 
the  Portuguese,  and  soon  afterwards  introduced  Pro- 
testantism among  the  natives. 

It  is  said  that  “one  principal  purpose  of  the 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


17 


formation  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company,  was  the 
propagation  of  Christianity  in  those  countries,  which 
should  come  under  their  dominion.”  Had  the  same 
purpose  actuated  the  foreign  agents  of  the  company, 
and  all  the  early  chaplains  of  the  establishment,  els  it 
did  many  of  them,  the  genuine  conversion  of  these  love- 
ly and  populous  islands  had  probably  been  the  result. 
The  natives  were  not  simply  willing,  but  desirous  to 
become  acquainted  with  the  religion  professed  by  the 
Dutch.  They  even  requested  teachers,  and  when 
their  request  was  complied  with,  submitted  to  their 
instructions,  with  the  greatest  docility  and  confi- 
dence. 

In  looking  over  the  records  of  these  times,  we  are 
struck  with  a number  of  rather  opposing  facts,  and 
scarcely  know  whether  to  give  flow  to  our  feelings  of 
admiration  at  the  zeal  and  energy  of  some  of  the  first 
chaplains ; or  of  deep  regret  at  their  injudicious 
plans,  and  the  comparative  fruitlessness  of  their  vast 
labdrs.  They  studied  and  wrote  ; they  travelled 
and  preached ; they  founded  churches  and  opened 
schools — such  were  the  variety  and  multiplicity  of 
their  measures  ; such  the  magnitude  and  success  of 
their  efforts,  that  according  to  their  reports,  the 
devils,  the  only  acknowledged  deities  of  these 
regions,  soon  found  their  temples  deserted;  their 
rights  neglected  ; and  whole  villages  and  islands  ali- 
enated from  their  allegiance.  At  the  close  of  the  se- 
2* 


18 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


venteenth  century  forty  thousand  natives  had  enrolled 
themselves  among  the  disciples  of  the  Saviour.*  But 
here  we  are  compelled  to  check  our  admiration,  by  a 
knowledge  of  the  result.  A declension  soon  commejic* 
ed,  and  continued  with  such  rapidity,  that  whole  dis- 
tricts speedily  relapsed  into  their  former  abominations. 
The  causes  of  this  decline,  or  rather  of  the  apparent 
conversion  of  such  numbers,  who  afterwards  apos- 
tatized, are  various.  Many  of  the  chaplains  opposed, 
in  spirit  and  conduct,  their  w’^orthy  coadjutors ; too 
much  stress  was  laid  upon  a knowledge  of  the  techni- 
calities, or  a compliance  with  the  formalities  of  Chris- 
tianity, too  little  upon  the  renovation  of  the  heart ; 
professing  Christians  were  preferred  to  their  heathen 
neighbors  hi  the  distribution  of  petty  offices  under 
governments  and  even  a monthly  allowance  of  rice 
was  served  out  to  those,  and  those  only,  who  had 
received  the  rite  of  baptism. 

During  the  eighteenth  century,  w'^e  read  of  very  few 
attempts  made  to  revive  the  dying  spirit  of  Christian- 
ity, or  even  to  preserve  from  a hastening  extinction 
“that  which  remained,  and  was  ready  to  die.” 
Many  of  the  schools  were  kept  up,  and  other  means 
previously  established  continued ; but  the  labor  de- 
volved principally  upon  the  natives,  and  their  quali- 
fications were  inadequate  to  the  work  ; the  churches 

*I  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain  the  population  of  the  islariJs 
at  this  time. 


INDIAN  ARCIlIPKLAGO. 


19 


at  home  were  languishing,  and  the  few  messengers 
sent  out,  took  little  or  no  interest  in  the  instruction 
of  the  heathen.  To  determine  what  amount  of  good 
was  really  effected  by  these  early  missionary  efforts, 
requires  a new  series  of  data,  very  different  from 
the  contradictory  reports  of  the  times,  or  the  opposing 
sentiments  of  later  commentators.  That  many  were 
translated  out  of  darlaiess  into  light,  who  would  hesi- 
tate to  believe?  that  thousands  were  self-deluded, 
or  deceived  who  could  deny?  When  we  consider 
what  most  evidently  might  hare  been  effected,  and 
what  was  no  doubt,  the  aim  of  the  devoted  men,  of 
whom  we  have  spoken,  we  are  grieved  at  the  conse- 
quences. For  more  than  two  hundred  years  this  de- 
sert might  have  bloomed,  like  the  garden  of  the  Lord, 
and  loaded  with  its  fragrance  every  breeze  which 
refreshes  the  vast  continent  and  islands  of  south-east- 
ern Asia. 

These  few  historical  facts  will  bring  us  down  to 
our  own  times,  and  prepare  us  for  the  remarks  which 
may  bo  offered,  in  regard  to  the  missions  of  the  pre- 
sent day,  in  the  different  islands  that  shall  be  noticed. 

The  largfe  island  of  Timor  was  one  of  those  inclu- 
ded  within  our  view  while  passing  through  the  Om- 
bay  passage.  Its  forest  trees  crowning  a majestic 
bank,  which  skirted  the  sea,  waved  us  a graceful  invi- 
tation to  their  cooling  shades — perhaps  to  the  relief  of 
the  crowds  who  perish  beneath  them.  Timor  is  one 


20 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


of  the  most  extensive  and  important  islands  in  these 
seas.  According  to  the  account  of  travellers,  a num- 
ber of  independent,  unsocial  tribes  roam  through  its 
deep  interior,  who  have  so  little  mutual  intercourse, 
that  no  less  than  forty  languages  are  employed 
among  them.  There  are  two  foreign  establishments 
upon  the  island,  the  one  occupied  by  the  Portuguese, 
the  other  by  the  Dutch.  The  former  is  called  Delli, 
or  Didil,  and  is  situated  on  the  north-east  part  of  the 
island.  Of  its  commercial  importance  we  know  but 
Uttle.  More  than  three  centuries  have  elapsed  since 
the  Catholic  religion  was  introduced  here,  and  al- 
though the  Portuguese  colonists,  and  their  nume- 
rous priests  have  generally  given  it  currency  in  other 
parts  of  the  east,  where  they  have  preserved  a foot- 
hold, yet  Timor  has  received  but  little  attention  at 
their  hands.  One  evident  reason,  according  to  a 
witness  of  their  own  nation  and  religion,  is  because 
the  priests  are  a worldly-minded,  and  ungodly  set 
of  men.  The  gi’eater  part  of  the  day  they  employ 
in  speculations  in  sandal-wood,  wax,  gold,  copper, 
and  even  the  very  heathen  themselves,  whom  they 
export,  and  sell  as  slaves.  This  however  is  but  a 
part  of  their  unchristian  conduct. 

“ By  night  they  practise  every  sin, 

By  day  their  hands  draw  nigh  to  God.” 

The  most  disgraceful  ecclesiastics  in  Macao,  are 
generally  selected  for  Timor ; and  cases  have  oc- 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


21 


curred,  where  lawless  offenders  of  this  class,  with 
whom  nothing  could  be  done,  have  had.  other  punish- 
ment mitigated  into  missionary  banishment  to  this 
ill-fated  island.  If  this  be  the  case,  and  there  is  cer- 
tainly no  reason  to.  doubt  the  authority  upon  which 
it  is  given,  we  see  sufficient  reason  why  the  petty 
chiefs  who  have  embraced  Catholicism,  according  to 
travellers,  still  retain  their  heathen  customs,  and 
practice  the  grossest  immoralities. 

Coopang,  the  Dutch  settlement,  stands  on  the 
south-west  end  of  the  island.  It  is  among  those  places 
referred  to,  where  the  early  chaplains  exerted  them- 
selves with  such  vigor  and  apparent  success.  During 
the  eighteenth  century  it  shared  the  common  fate, 
being  forgotten  by  the  unsympathizing  mother  at 
home.  No  laborers  were  sent  out,  and  many  baptized 
Christians  abandoned  even  the  name  of  Christ,  and 
reverted  to  their  favorite  demonolatry.  In  the  year 
1821,  the  first  messenger  under  the  new  era  of  Chris- 
tian Missions,  resumed  the  long  suspended  duties  of 
a Gospel  mmister  in  the  place.  Le  Brim,  the  name 
of  the  missionary,  was  an  excellent  character,  though 
spared  only  long  enough  to  prepare  himself  for  useful- 
ness, in  his  new  sphere  ; others  succeeded  him,  and 
carried  on  the  duties  of  the  station  with  visible  suc- 
cess. It  is  a common  complaint  in  the  correspond- 
ence of  the  missionaries,  that  multitudes  who  have 
been  received  into  the  Christian  church — probably 


22 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


descendants  of  the  early  converts — have  never  re- 
nounced their  idolatrous  habits.  The  unchristianized 
natives  they  describe  as  slothful,  apathetic,  untrained 
to  reflection,  living  and  dying  like  the  brutes  around 
them.  They  have  no  established  forms  of  religion, 
but  dread  the  power,  and  deprecate  the  fiiry  of  infer- 
nal spirits.  This  refers  only  to  the  tribes  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  settlement,  where  the  Malayan  language 
enters  into  the  admixture  of  their  native  tongues.  As 
hais  been  mentioned,  those  in  the  interior  speak  a 
number  of  languages,  very  distinct  from  the  Malay, 
and  live  in  the  wildest  state.  I am  not  able  to  learn 
that  any  attempts  have  ever  been  made  for  their  con- 
version.* 

A number  of  smaller  islands  in  the  surrounding 
seas,  are  occupied  by  the  missionaries  of  the  Nether- 
land’s  Society ; among  these  is  Rotti,  situated  a short 
distance  south  of  Timor.  In  1820  there  were  three 
churches  completed,  and  others  in  progress  on  this 
limited  spot.  Three  hundred  and  sixty  children  were 


• At  the  close  of  1831,  the  Dutch  reports  give  an  aggregate  of 
several  thousands  of  Christians  upon  the  island.  Whether  they 
include  those  whose  heathen  customs  the  missionaries  deplore,  we 
know  not.  In  1832,  six  missionaries  arrived  in  the  east,  four  of 
whom  went  to  an  institution  upon  Timor,  designed  for  fitting  Eu- 
ropean and  native  Christians  for  their  work.  One  of  them  was 
appointed  to  the  chaplaincy  of  the  company,  the  others,  it  is  hoped, 
will  penetrate  beyond  the  maritime  parts,  which  have  already  been 
explored. 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


23 


enjoying  regular  instruction,  all  of  them  the  descend- 
ants of  nominal  Christians.  The  aboriginal  inhabi- 
tants are  more  energetic  in  mind  and  body  than  the 
I Malays,  and  the  island  yields  a rich  supply  of  rice 
and  palm  sugar.* 

I East  and  north-east  of  Timor,  one  or  two  degrees 

distant  from  it,  and  each  other,  are  the  small  islands 
of  Letty,  Moa,  Kisser,  and  Roma.  Each  of  them  is 
' a mission  station,  occupied  by  one  or  more  missiona- 
ries. Some  of  them  abound  with  inhabitants,  who 
have  a language  of  their  own,  and  whose  customs 
are  entirely  repugnant  to  the  principles  of  Chris- 
I tianity,  which  many  profess.  The  instructions  of 

/ the  missionaries  are  generally  conveyed  through 

' the  Malayan  language,  which  it  is  said  they  are 

f striving  to  make  the  universal  medium  of  inter- 

j.  course.  If  it  can  be  accomplished  without  sacrificing 

I the  eternal  interests  of  the  present  generation,  the 

i object  is  worthy  of  their  strenuous  efforts.  It  is  cal- 

culated to  cherish  a spirit  of  benevolence  among  the 
natives,  and  it  will  yield  the  greatest  facility  of  labor 
to  all  succeeding  missionaries.  One  or  two  of  them 
have  acquired  the  native  speech ; but  thus  far,  no 
translations  have  been  made,  at  least,  no  books  pub- 
lished. According  to  the  report  of  a missionary,  who 
visited  the  island  of  Letty  in  1825,  he  found  the 

• Of  the  recent  reinforcements  to  these  islands,  one  or  two 
missionaries  are  instructed  to  occupy  Rotti. 


24  . 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


school-master  efficiently  engaged  in  his  duties,  and 
he  baptized  many,  especially  in  one  district.  A suc- 
cessor, who  arrived  at  the  island  in  1829,  states  that 
numbers  of  baptized  Christians  were  both  ignorant 
and  addicted  to  all  the  vices  of  Paganism.  That  the 
same  system  of  gathering  multitudes  indiscriminately 
into  the  visible  church,  should  be  practised  by  some 
of  the  modern  missionaries,  is  a source  of  lamentation 
to  their  more  judicious  brethren,  and  to  all  who  take 
an  interest  in  their  successful  labors.  The  result  is, 
as  might  be  expected — some  “ weary  themselves  for 
very  vanity,”  and  others  are  obliged  to  “ labor  in  the 
very  fire”  most  inconsiderately  kindled  against  them. 
At  Wetter,  which  hats  been  mentioned  as  included  with- 
in our  prospect,  the  heathen  are  represented  as  favora- 
ble to  Christianity.  The  missionary  who  visited  them 
in  1825,  baptized  numbers,  and  united  many  in  Chris- 
tian marriage.  The  island  had  formerly  been  under 
the  care  of  the  chaplains  ; but  for  the  last  forty  years, 
Christian  instruction  had  been  almost  entirely  suspen- 
ded. The  consequences  need  not  be  detailed,  when 
it  is  considered  that  little  more  than  the  name  and 
rites  of  Christianity  constituted  the  sum  of  their  early 
knowledge. 

After  leaving  the  Ombay  passage,  our  course  lay 
throug-h  the  Banda  sea,  which  takes  its  name  from  a 
small  group  of  islands,  situated  two  and  a half  de- 
grees east  of  our  track.  Here,  the  Dutch  have  a 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


25 


missionary,  who  under  date  of  1824,  reports  that  he 
had  been  visiting  those  who  professed  Christianity 
from  iiouse  to  house.  He  was  shocked  at  their  igno- 
rance and  heathenism;  barring  the  difference  of 
name,  they  could  not  be  distinguished  from  the  Ma- 
hommedans  and  heathen  around  them.  The  drums 
of  the  soothsayers  made  a deeper  impression  upon 
them,  than  all  the  truths  of  the  Gospel. 

Such  was  the  depravity  of  the  great  mass  of 
adults,  and  such  the  example  by  which  their  children 
were  seduced  into  all  wickedness,  that  the  missionary 
was  constrained  under  the  deep  emotions  of  his  soul, 
to  exclaim  “ Rivers  of  waters  run  down  mine  eyes,  be- 
cause they  keep  not  thy  law.”  Still,  a few  facts  of  some 
promise  were  noticed;  there  were  those  who  could  and 
did  read  the  Bible  ; the  schools,  though  languishing, 
were  not  closed,  and  a few  of  the  converts  maintained 
a character  worthy  the  religion  they  professed. 

In  former  days  there  were  congregations  upon  a 
number  of  these  islands  ; but  the  blight  of  death  has 
passed  over  them.  • 

At  Great  Banda  there  are  twenty-four  plantations, 
managed  by  as  many  native  planters,  who  bear  the 
name  of  Christ. 

Still  farther  to  the  east,  nearly  a south-east  direc- 
tion from  Banda,  is  a chain  of  islets,  called  by  the 
Dutch,  “ the  Keys,”  which  extend  to  the  Arroo  group 
of  the  charts.  The  former  are  described  as  fertile 
3 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO- 


■ 26 

spots,  producing  a variety  of  fruits,  and  peopled  by  a 
race  of  men,  who  have  ever  shown  a peculiar  mild- 
ness and  hospitality  of  disposition,  toward  Europeans. 
Whether  this  benevolence  is  a genuine  expression  of 
soul,  or  assumed  from  motives  of  policy,  has  nofbeen 
ascertained.  The  only  ground  of  uncharitable  suspi- 
cion rests  upon  their  physical  weakness,  and  destitu- 
tion or  paucity  of  arms.  The  Arroo  islands  are 
extremely  valuable,  and  said  to  Contain  a population 
of  about  twenty  thousand;  they  abound  in  all  the 
delicious  fruits  of  the  Moluccas,  and  swarm  with 
poultry  and  birds  ’of  the  richest,  rarest  plumage. 
They  contain  a small  band  of  professing  Christians, 
with  a large  proportion  of  Mohammedans,  and  a still 
greater  number  of  heathen.  From  the  reports  of  the 
missionaries  in  their  vicinity,  these  islands  hold  out 
the  most  inspiriting  invitation  to  the  servants  of 
Christ;  the  field  is  large,  and  numbers  would  find 
delightful  employment  in  its  culture.  One  relative 
advantage  of  the  highest  importance  is,  the  proximity 
of  these  islands  to  New  Guinea,  with  whose  shores, 
there  is  no  doubt  a constant  intercourse,  and  whose 
degraded  millions  might  be  approached  through  this 
point  of  access. 

Contrary  winds  and  a temporary  calm  detained 
us  two  or  three  days  in  the  Banda  sea. 

On  the  28th  January,  the  large  island  of  Booro 
was  descried,  and  the  next  morning  we  found  our- 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELA.GO. 


27 


selves  passing,  at  the  distance  of  a few  miles  from  its 
south-eastern  shore.  Besides  its  other  valuable  pro- 
ductions, the  island  is  the  genial  soil  of  the  cajeput 
tree,  whose  well  known  oil  is  a principal  article  of 
export.  It  is  virtually  under  the  domination  of  the 
Dutch,  though,  with  the  exception  of  a foreign  Resi- 
dent, the  inhabitants  are  governed  by  their  own  ra- 
jahs. The  king  of  the  country,  and  nine  subordinate 
chiefs,  by  whom  he  is  assisted  in  judicial  matters,  are 
Mohammedans.  The  inhabitants,  whom  the  Dutch 
call  Alfories,  have  not  submitted  to  the  yoke  of  Islam- 
ism,  and  it  is  said,  are  not  allowed  to  embrace  Chris- 
tianity. Still  the  place  is  not  entirely  destitute  of 
Christian  instruction.  A missionary  is  stationed  here, 
who,  under  date  of  1825,  writes  that  the  island  is  di- 
vided into  ten  districts,  and  that  there  were  about 
ninety  Christians,  and  one  hundred  and  forty,  inclu- 
ding children,  who  had  been  baptized. 

The  state  of  religion  among  these  few,  differs  in 
no  respects  from  the  corruption  prevailing  in  the  other 
islands.  The  judgments  of  God  in  those  sweeping 
scourges,  cholera  and  famine,  it  is  reported,  produced 
considerable  effect  upon  their  fears,  and  brought  them 
for  a time  to  a better  state  of  mind. 

The  aborigines  are  characterized  by  gentleness 
and  fimidity.  Idleness,  opium,  smoking,  and  drunken- 
ness are  their  reigning  vices  ; dancing,  their  popular 
amusement. 


28 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


After  leaving  the  Banda  sea,  we  passed  through 
the  straits  of  Manippa,  which  brought  within  our 
horizon  a number  of  important  islands.  Amboyna, 
the  principal  one,  is  distinguished  among  all  the  spice 
settlements  under  European  control,  for  the  extent  and 
beauty  of  its  capital,  the  strength  of  its  fortifications, 
and  the  proportionately  large  number  of  its  professing 
Christians.  It  contains  a population  of  between  forty 
and  fifty  thousand.  Mr.  Kam,  the  first  missionary  of 
the  new  era,  who  arrived  in  1815,  reports  that  he 
found  twenty  thousand  native  Christians,  prepared  by 
his  predecessors,  for  attending  the  ordinances  of  the 
Gospel.  The  nature  of  this  preparation  is  not  stated, 
though  the  missionary  probably  includes  all  who  had 
been  received  into  the  visible  church,  by  its  initiatory 
rite,  with  their  descendants.  He  found  many  districts, 
whose  inhabitants  were  formerly  Christian,  sunk  into 
their  ancient  Paganism.  A terrifying  earthquake 
frightened  some  of  them  back  into  the  profession 
they  had  abandoned.  Mr.  Kam  commenced  his  la- 
bors here  and  in  the  neighboring  islands,  with  much 
zeal  and  energy.  Prompted  by  a spirit  which  every 
missionary  should  possess,  he  looked  upon  himself  as 
a “ debtor  to  all,”  and  consequently  entered  into  every 
sphere  where  he  thought  his  services  might  be  useful. 
Much  of  his  time  was  devoted  to  a visitation  of  those 
islands,  where  churches  had  been  planted,  or  where 
there  was  an  opening  for  the  introduction  of  the  Gos- 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


29 


pel.  His  journals  show  an  entire  devotedness  to  his 
Saviour’s  kingdom,  though  from  the  many  thousands 
he  baptized  m his  extensive  and  repeated  circuits,  we 
cannot  but  fear  that  his  views  .on  this  subject  were 
not  the  most  judicious.  J • 

Two  institutions  were  established  at  Amboyna,  for 
the  preparation  of  schoolmasters,  one  under  a com- 
mittee of  government  officers,  including  the  mis- 
sionary who  is  the  appointed  chaplain — the  other 
under  the  sole  direction  of  Mr.  Kam,  and  designed 
to  prepare  young  men  for  less  prominent,  though 
equally  destitute  stations.  These  institutions,  and  es- 
pecially the  latter,  have  been  successful  in  their  ope- 
rations. Other  means  have  been  employed  for  the 
conversion  of  the  heathen  with  much  visible  ef- 
fect. 

At  Manippa,  through  the  straits  of  which  we 
sailed,  there  are  many  Mussulmans,  and  a few  Chris- 
tians. The  missionaries  report,  that  two  villages  had 
cast  away  their  idols,  and  embraced  Christianity. 

We  had  the  large  and  beautiful  island  of  Ceram 
in  sight  a long  time.  Its  lively  verdure,  its  towering 
mountains,  its  irregular  and  variegated  surface,  and 
especially  its  associated  history,  tended  to  render  it  an 
object  of  most  interesting  contemplation.  Travellers 
speak  of  some  of  its  scenes  as  enchanting.  The 
missionaries  describe  it  as  exceedingly  fertile.  The 
sago  finds  no  soil  so  congenial  to  its  perfection  as  the 

3* 


30 


INDIAN'  ARCHIPELAGO. 


well  saturated  bogs  of  Ceram.  This  valuable  tree 
grows  wild,  not  merely  in  scattering  clumps,  but  in 
deep  forests,  supplying  its  indolent  tribes  with  abun- 
' dant  provision,  and  considerable  wealth.  The  waters 
teem  with  a variety  of  the  finest  fish,  so  that  it  has 
been  said  of  the  natives  of  this  island,  as  of  the  birds 
of  the  air,  “ They  neither  sow,  nor  reap,  nor  gather 
into  barns.”  The  inhabitants  of  the  sea-coast  are 
principally  Malays ; in  the  inland  districts,  the  Alfo- 
rees,  or  aborigines,  abound.  The  shocking  Diak 
custom  of  destroying  human  life,  by  arts  the  most 
treacherous  and  dishonorable,  without  provocation, 
and  merely  to  add  human  heads  to  the  trophies  of 
their  cruelty,  is  common  here  with  Borneo  and  Cele- 
bes. Demonolatry  is  the  prevailing  superstition,  and 
the  infernal  rites,  and  horrid  imprecations  employed 
in  binding  themselves  to  a voluntary  and  perpetual 
slavery  to  the  “ Rulers  of  darkness”  breathe  the  very 
spirit  of  hell. 

When  Mr.  Kam  visited  the  place,  after  his  arrival 
in  these  seas,  he  found  that  there  had  been  no  stated 
preacher  for  the  last  twenty  years.  He  passed  through 
twelve  districts,  preaching  and  administering  the  sa- 
craments of  the  Gospel.  After  his  return,  he  received 
, intelligence  that  two  villages  had  demolished  their 
temples.  But  alas  ! numbers  of  these  stony  ground 
hearers  soon  began  to  decline,  so  that  the  missionary 
felt  liimself  obliged  to  make  them  another  visit.  In 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


31 


some  districts  religious  exhortations  had  no  effect. 
Many  of  the  Christians  did  not  even  believe  in  a fu- 
ture state  of  existence.  At  Kaibobo,  on  Ceram,  a 
missionary  is  stationed.  He  gives  no  favorable  ac- 
count of  the  progress  of  the  children  in  the  schools, 
nor  of  the  good  example  and  discipline  of  their  pa- 
rents at  home. 

In  a report  of  Mr.  Kam  for  1827,  he  speaks  of 
more  than  six  thousand  church  members,  and  up- 
wards of  two  thousand  children  under  instruction.* 

With  the  exception  of  Ternati,  one  of  the  Moluc- 
cas, situated  not  far  from  the  north  coast  of  Gilolo, 
we  have  gone  over  the  principal  station  under  the 
Netherlands  Missionary  Society  in  this  part  of  the 
Archipelago. 

Ternati,  though  small,  has  long  maintained  an 
importance  above  its  neighbors.  Its  sultan  has  ac- 
quired the  sovereignty  of  many  of  the  adjacent  islands, 
having  extended  his  dominions  to  parts  of  Celebes,  and 
even  to  New  Guinea.  The  missionary  here  has  been 
taken  into  the  service  of  the  government,  and  though 
a man  of  excellent  character,  is  said  to  be  too  sickly 
to  fulfil  his  duties  among  Christians,  and  of  course, 
unable  to  attempt  much  for  the  heathen.  The  situa- 

* The  discrepancy  in  the  two  statements  may  be  easily  recon*. 
ciled,  though  we  fear  that  the  least  gratifying  account  is  the  most 
correct. 


32 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


tion  is  probably  one  of  the  most  important  for  a mis- 
sionary colony  in  these  seas. 

Before  we  turn  our  backs  upon  the  numerous  sta- 
tions occupied  by  the  Netherlands  Society  and  open 
to  their  future  exertions,  a few  facts  merit  our  atten- 
tion. The  extent  of  many  of  these  islands,  the  num- 
ber of  their  inhabitants,  their  proximity  to  others  still 
more  extensive  and  populous,  render  them  highly 
important  for  missionary  establishments;  while  the 
liberty  enjoyed  by  Europeans  of  visiting  the  coast  and 
traversing  the  interior  of  most  of  them,  added  to  the 
readiness  with  which  the  natives  generally  listen  to 
their  instructions,  and  conform  by  thousands  to  the 
external  rites  of  Christianity,  enhance  their  interest, 
and  give  them  a bold  prominence  among  the  most  in- 
viting and  promising  spheres  of  Christian  exertion. 

To  those  acquainted  with  the  history  of  these 
missions,  it  may  be  thought  strange  that  we  do  not 
dwell  more  in  detail  upon  the  numbers  who  have  at 
different  times  renounced  idolatry,  and  professed  the 
religion  of  Christ.  Our  only  reason  is,  because  the 
qualifications  for  baptism,  required  by  many  of  the 
missionaries,  differ  so  essentially  from  those  which 
correspond  with  the  views  of  the  majority  who  shall 
probably  read  this  work,  that  manbers  would  convey 
no  correct  idea  of  the  success  of  their  labors.  In 
islands,  and  districts  of  islands,  occasionally  visited 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


33 


by  the  missionaries,  we  read  of  their  preaching  a few 
times,  performing  the  ceremony  of  marriage,  baptizing 
crowds  of  adults  as  well  as  children,  and  administer- 
ing tlie  sacrament  of  the  Lord’s  supper.  If  these  pla-.  ’ 
ces  were  all  supplied  with  native  teachers,  in  whose 
piety  and  judgment  entire  confidence  could  be  placed, 
our  wonder  at  this  apparently  hasty  mode  of  proce- 
dure, would  cease.  But  when  we  read  from  their  own 
accounts,  that  apostasy  is  very  common,  and  that  vil- 
lages and  wliole  districts  frequently  fall  back  into  their 
former  abominations,  we  must  conclude  that  either 
the  native  teachers  are  unqualified  for  their  duties,  or 
disproportioned  in  numbers  to  their  stations  ; or  that 
those  admitted  to  the  ordinances  of  the  church  are 
received  on  other  grounds  than  the  repentance  and 
faith  enjoined  in  the  Scriptures. 

It  is  not  intended  that  these  plans  are  approved 
by  all  the  present  missionaries ; neither  is  it  certain 
that  they  are  pursued  by  the  majority.  A very  few 
laborers  of  incorrect  sentiments  respecting  the  proper 
subjects  of  the  sacraments,  are  quite  sufficient  to  pro- 
duce all  the  consequences  we  here  deplore. 

One  fact,  which  strikes  us  powerfully,  and  which 
may  tend  to  explain  in  a measure,  what  we  cannot 
approve  is  the  paucity  of  laborers.  Compared  with 
most  other  societies,  the  one,  whose  field  and  opera- 
tions we  have  been  considering,  has  done  nobly ; 
but  their  hands  are  too  feeble  for  the  immense  work 


34 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


to  be  performed.  Hundreds  should  be  sent  forth, 
and  hundreds  would,  no  doubt,  find  the  most  delight- 
ful employment. 

After  leaving  the  straits  of  Manippa,  our  course 
was  nearly  north-east,  through  Dampier  straits  into  the 
Pacific.  A multitude  of  islands  of  rather  inconside- 
rable note,  arose  and  sunk  in  our  horizon,  as  we  gli- 
ded gently  along,  until  we  found  ourselves  once  more 
riding  upon  the  long  swells  of  an  open  sea.  New- 
Guinea,  or  the  great  Papua  country,  and  Waygiou  or 
Waijoo,  between  which  we  passed,  remained  in  sight 
many  hours.  The  mountains  of  the  former  appear- 
ed stupendous,  and  the  distant  coast  resembles  hills 
of  different  altitudes,  and  dimensions,  rising  separate- 
ly firom  the  ocean.  It  is  rather  extraordinary  that 
while  we  have  been  for  many-  days  surrounded 
with  human  habitations,  some  of  which,  with  their 
possessors,  we  approached  near  enough  to  discern, 
we  have  received  no  visitors,  and  perceived  but  one 
prow  in  motion. 

Waijoo  contains  one  hundred  thousand  inhabi- 
tants. It  is  said  that  they  trade  to  a considerable 
extent  with  the  Chinese,  and  that  the  greater  part  of 
them  speak  the  Chinese  language.  From  the  ac- 
counts of  travellers,  though  we  have  seen  nothing  of  a 
recent  date,  we  can  find  no  reason  why  an  inter- 
course might  not  be  opened  with  them  and  a mission 
established  upon  their  island.  Surely  the  number  of 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


35 


souls  is  large  enough  to  claim  this  duty  from  Chris- 
tians, and  its  situation  is  peculiarly  favorable,  both  to 
communicate  with  home,  and  with  the  important 
I islands  in  its  vicinity. 

But  it  is  to  New-Guinea  that  the  eye  turns 
with  the  deepest  concern.  This  insular  continent, 
extends  about  twelve  hundred  miles  in  length, 
and  from  fifteen  to  three  hundred  and  sixty  in 
breadth.  Navigators  speak,  with  rapture  of  the  beau- 
; ty  of  its  coasts,  and  the  astonishing  variety  of  its  rich 
productions.  Among  the  ornaments  of  its  natural 
history  is  the  far  famed  bird  of  paradise,  of  which  ten 
or  twelve  species  make  it  their  favorite  residence. 

I It  is  inhabited  by  several  millions  of  souls,  who  are 
sunk  into  deep  intellectual  ignorance  and  spiritual 
death.  Many  distinct  tribes,  exceedingly  opposite  to 
1 each  other  in  appearance  and  habits,  spread  them- 
selves through  its  coasts  and  interior.  The  great 
I mass  consist  of  negroes,  of  a herculean  frame,  and 
jet  black  countenance,  with  prominent  eyes,  disten- 
ded mouths,  spreading  noses,  and  curled  hair  projec- 
ting in  an  enormous  bunch  from  the  head.  Some  of 
them  are  cannibals  of  the  worst  character.  Others 
are  mild  and  obliging  to  strangers ; disposed  to  trade 
upon  terms  the  most  advantageous  to  the  other 
party ; neither  knowing  the  value  of  their  own  arti- 
cles, nor  the  worthlessness  of  those  they  most  ad- 
mire. Though  we  have  never  read  of  a single 


36 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


missionary  having  touched  its  shores,  the  wiser 
and  ’more  adventurous  children  of  this  world  hesi- 
tate not  to  visit  it  whenever  their  object  can  be 
gained.* 

Thus  we  perceive  from  the  catalogue  of  islands 
enumerated, — and  the  list  might  be  easily  swelled,  if 
we  proceed  a short  distance  to  the  east, — what  a 
sphere  of  Christian  benevolence,  lies  in  almost  total 
neglect  in  these  seas.  It  is,  no  doubt,  judged  by 
some  advisable  to  defer  missionary  engagements, 
until  commerce  shall  open  an  access  to  these  barba- 

* The  following  facts  were  extracted  from  the  journal  of  a cap- 
tain, published  in  the  Singapore  Chronicle,  who  writes  under 
date  of  1830.  They  may  be  useful  to  some.  At  Dory  of  the 
charts  he  found  a good  harbor,  and  the  people  very  friendly.  They 
gave  him  missoy  bark,  tripang  and  tortoise  shell,  in  exchange  for 
iron,  blue  cloth,  &c.  At  Myfori,  (Long  Island  of  the  charts,)  the 
rajah  spoke  Malaj',  but  was  absent ; he  afterwards  met  him  and 
found  him  friendly.  At  Misori  or  Schoten  island,  the  people  are 
considered  treacherous.  At  Paddydoo,  or  Traitor’s  island,  they 
are  on  the  contrary  exceedingly  friendly,  and  as  an  expression  of 
it,  carried  their  boat  when  she  grounded,  about  two  miles.  At 
Koreering,  or  Jobie,  a considerable  island  in  the  deep  bay,  the 
natives  were  also  very  friendly.  At  Ansoose,  off  Jobie,  latitude 
two  degrees  south,  there  are  a number  of  islands  } the  natives  are 
not  to  be  trusted.  At  Coordoo,  (Geebrinks,  East  Point  of  the  charts) 
a small  village  on  the  east  point  of  the  great  bay,  their  boats  were 
seized  with  six  men  in  them.  Some  of  the  men  were  killed  in  a 
savage  manner.  The  bottom  and  east  of  the  great  bay  is  said 
to  be  inhabited  by  the  worst  description  of  cannibals.  The  prin- 
cipal trade  is  with  the  Chinese. 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


37 


rous  regions,  and  prepare  the  way  of  the  gospel  ; 
but  even  if  the  character  and  conduct  of  traders 
had  this  general  tendency,  how  long  shall  we  wait  1 
Had  there  been  any  strong  inducements  to  commer- 
cial enterprise,  the  advantages  would  not  have  been 
neglected  until  the  present.  And  as  it  has  been 
found  that  the  influence  of  men  from  Christian  coun- 
tries, in  pursuit  of  wealth,  is  generally  prejudicial  to 
the  extension  of  the  religion,  whose  principles  they 
fail  to  exemplify  ; it  is  no  doubt  favorable  that  such 
a preliminary  barrier  has  not  been  reared  against  the 
introduction  of  the  truth. 

The  servants  of  Christ  engaged  in  foreign  com- 
merce, might  afford  the  most  valuable  aid,  in  has- 
tening the  conversion  of  these  nations.  In  fact, 
without  their  assistance,  we  scarcely  know  how 
any  thing  can  be  done  for  the  present.  They 
might  dispatch  a ship  on  an  exploring  tour  to  ob- 
tain more  information  about  the  character  and  cir- 
cumstances of  the  different  tribes  of  natives,  and  to 
determine  the  most  eligible  sites  for  missions.  The 
ship  could  probably  defray  her  expenses  by  the 
same  traffic,  which  others  carry  on,  who  have  no 
such  object  in  view.  When  the  best  localities  are 
ascertained,  and  missionaries  sent  forth  to  occupy 
them,  nothing  further  would  be  required  for  facilita- 
ting their  work,  but  to  furnish  them  with  small  ves- 
sels, capable  of  navigating  these  seas,  and  to  favor 

4 


38 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


them  with  an  annual  visitor  or  two  from  home,  to 
supply  them  with  necessities  and  comforts. 

With  the  blessing  of  God’s  Spirit  upon  their  la- 
bors, which  we  believe  would  be  quickly  and  amply 
bestowed,  the  missionaries  would  soon  place  them- 
selves upon  a permanent  and  advantageous  footing, 
and  probably  repay  to  their  commercial  friends  many 
fold  for  their  assistance.  Thus  the  gospel,  by  the 
# light  it  sheds,  and  the  diligence  it  commands,  would 
prepare  the  way  of  trade,  and  the  benefits  that  would 
accrue  to  different  and  widely  distant  nations,  would 
be  incalculable.  Millions  now  below  the  brutes,  would 
be  exalted  to  the  enjoyment  of  all  the  blessings  of  this 
life,  and  to  the  hopes  of  the  glories  of  the  life  to  come. 

But  lest  the  plan  here  proposed  should  be  disap- 
proved, or  what  amounts  to  the  same,  not  acted  upon, 
another  is  at  hand,  in  which  the  pecuniary  sacrifice 
or  hazard  is  less.  Those  ships  bound  to  Canton,  and 
obliged  like  ourselves  to  make  this  eastern  passage, 
might  attempt  the  prerequisite  task  of  exploring,  and 
upon  its  completion,  if  the  trade  did  not  answer  their 
wishes,  might  proceed  to  Canton,  without  incurring 
much  risk,  or  losing  much  time.  And  thus  one  or 
two  out-of-season  ships  could  annually  touch  at  any 
station  selected,  and  by  administering  to  the  health 
and  comfort  of  the  missionaries,  afford  material 
service  to  the  cause  in  which  they  are  engaged. 

But  whence  the  necessity  of  holding  out  a tern- 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


39 


poral  reward,  as  an  inducement  to  Christians,  to 
discharge  their  duties  ? What  but  the  glory  of  the 
Redeemer,  can  be  the  object  of  commerce  in  the 
purposes  of  God,  and  what  could  more  loudly  pro- 
claim this  object,  than  the  sanctification  of  many  to 
Himself,  to  whom  He  has  intrusted  the  talent  of 
such  extensive  usefulness?  “Surely  the  isles  shall 
wait  for  me,  and  the  ships  of  Tarshish  first,  to 
bring  thy  sons  from  far.” 

If  ships  are  to  be  employed  in  the  benevolent 
plans  of  the  Saviour,  who  that  understands  his  own 
honor,  as  well  as  duty,  would  hesitate  to  favor 
these  purposes,  and  thus,  identify  himself,  and  his 
possessions,  with  the  instrumentality  employed  in 
the  regeneration  of  a world. 

After  leaving  the  straits  of  Dampier,  the  wind 
obliged  us  to  stand  olF  in  nearly  an  easterly  direction. 
On  the  8th  of  February,  we  made  the  Pelew  islands, 
and  were  soon  espied  by  the  natives,  who  came  off  in 
our  pursuit.  One  canoe  with  six  men  and  women, 
perfectly  naked,  succeeded  in  gaining  the  ship,  but 
although  a rope  was  thrown  them  which  they 
caught,  and  our  progress  was  checked,  their  boat 
was  drawn  under  the  stern  or  counter  of  the  ship, 
and  they  were  obliged  to  let  go  their  hold,  to  save 
themselves.  In  their  first  attempt  to  gain  the  lee  of 
the  ship,  they  were  disappointed,  and  as  they  were 
defeated  in  their  purpose  a second  time,  even  after 


40 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


attaining  that  position,  they  were  evidently  disin- 
clined to  renew  the  efibrt.  After  we  separated,  they 
remained  a long  time  stationary,  as  though  indulging 
the  listlessness  of  disappointment,  or  endeavoring  to 
re-excite  their  hopes  for  another  trial.  Their  proa 
was  apparently  the  excavated  trunk  of  a tree.  Its 
breadth  bore  no  proportion  to  its  length.  The  sail 
was  triangular  ; to  the  windward  side  was  attached 
an  out-rigger,  projecting  about  three  feet.  On  this 
2is  many  sat  as  were  necessary  to  preserve  the  ba- 
lance of  the  boat,  while  one  was  constantly  employed 
in  discharging  the  water,  received  from  every  wave. 

The  performance  of  these  canoes,  and  the  skill 
and  dexterity  with  which  they  are  managed,  are 
surprising.  They  come  dancing  over  the  waves 
like  “ fairy  sprites,”  and  with  a velocity,  which  it 
demands  a stiff  breeze  and  rough  sea  for  a ship  to 
equal.  One  or  two  of  them  continued  in  pursuit  of  us, 
until  their  small  islands  were  left  below  our  horizon, 
and  themselves  shut  in  by  the  shades  of  the  evening. 

The  natives  of  this  group  were  formerly  repre- 
sented as  the  mildest  and  most  benevolent  specimens 
of  unenlightened  men.  This  character  they  have 
lately  lost  by  attempts  at  violence,  which  prove  that 
their  previous  kindness  was  neither  natural,  nor  the 
result  of  principle.  When  they  learned  the  uses  of 
iron,  it  is  said  they  made  a desperate  effort  to  cut  off 
a ship,  and  murder  all  hands,  to  secure  the  object  of 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 


41 


their  cupidity.  Whether  they  may  not  have  had 
another  motive  for  the  attack,  such  as  revenge  for 
offensive  conduct,  we  cannot  ascertain.  Whatever  • 
may  be  their  present  character,  they  are  to  be  Chris- 
tianized, and  a mission  might  be  planted  and  sustain- 
ed, through  the  assistance  of  the  ships  passing  in  this 
track.  Let  barbarous  nations  be  informed,  that  they 
are  to  be  often  visited  by  vessels  belonging  to  the 
friends  of  those  who  labor  among  them,  and  it  would 
no  doubt  influence  them  in  their  conduct  toward 
the  missionaries. 


4‘ 


« 


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■w 


1*^  1 4 A ^ it  - . 


...  . . > • . .»  ■ .%- 

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S' 


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.!-» <'  . ^ ■V-f'J  '■-<#i>'!l^ 

kicwr<)5"«»«iw5  • ^;:^4l.  y»  ««*tj  ^ 

V.  ■ •■■  ' . A,-  ‘ « 


Vi* 


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fc". 

t-  • . 


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* ^ 

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. .'  ■ " ‘^V'  ^ ^ '•- 

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r ; 'fv 

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CHAPTER  II. 


o 

CHINA. 

February  17th,  1830.  Latitude  22  degrees  north, 
longitude  1 15  degrees,  18  minutes  east. 

Early  this  morning,  we  were  called  up  to  view 
the  Chinese  fishing  boats,  scattered  in  almost  every 
direction,  around  us.  They  had  ventured  beyond 
the  sight  of  land,  and  were  fishing  in  pairs,  with  a 
net  trailins:  between  them.  These  small  boats  are 
human  habitations,  occupied  by  as  many  gener  itions 
as  are  usually  permitted  to  exist  cotemporaneously. 
What  a prison  for  intellectual,  or  even  animal  being ; 
with  perhaps  no  prospect  of  a change  in  this  life, 
and  without  a knowledge  of  the  immortality  in  the 
next. 

It  is  said  they  are  not  allowed  to  trad?  with 
foreign  vessels,  and  their  exceeding  shyness,  and 
the  government  boa^attending  them,  confirm  the 
existence  of  such  an  inii*dict.  Two  hundred  were 
counted  at  one  time. 

18th.  To  day,  we  caught  the  first  view  of  Chi- 
na, while  sailing  in  a line  with  its  coast.  The  dis- 


44 


CHINA. 


tance  was  too  great  to  define  any  thing,  but  the  sha- 
dowy outline  of  its  hills. 

We  have  passed  the  latitude  of  Formosa,  which 
claims  a notice,  both  for  its  inherent  interest,  and  for 
the  sad  tale  of  missions,  which  its  history  proclaims. 
A chain  of  mountains,  extending  nearly  north  and 
south  forms  a natural  boundary  between  its  aboriginal 
inhabitants,  and  the  Chinese.  The  eastern  coast, 
in  the  possession  of  the  latter,  it  is  said  by  the 
old  Dutch  writers,  merits  the  name  by  which  it  is 
known.  The  western  division  is  inhabited  by  several 
tribes,  among  which  is  a negro  race  of  immense  size; 
In  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the 
Dutch  introduced  Christianity  into  this  island.  A 
number  of  chaplains  successively  engaged  in  the  un- 
dertaking, who  baptized  multitudes,  and  gathered 
many  congregations.  Parts  of  the  Scriptures  were 
translated  into  the  vernacular  of  the  aborigines,  which 
differs  greatly,  if  not  totally,  from  the  language  of  the 
empire.  These  were  sent  to  Amsterdam,  with  other 
Christian  books,  for  publication  ; but  there  is  no  evi- 
dence that  they  ever  went  through  th  e press.  Accord- 
ing to  the  account  of  the  missionaries,  this  extensive 
field  yielded  with  trifling  care,  and  promised  the  most 
abundant  fi  uits.  But  their  ujospects  and  projects  were 
soon  defeated ; the  island  c^tured  by  a pirate,  who 
massacred  part  of  the  chapMins,  destroyed  Christian- 
ity, and  re-established  ■idolatry.  This  event  occurred 


CHINA. 


45 


in  1661,  since  which  period,  the  Chinese  have  spread 
themselves  in  numbers  over  its  eastern  section ; at 
present,  it  is  in  a state  of  constant  rebellion,  the  resort 
of  the  disaffected  toward  the  government. 

19th.  The  dawn  of  this  morning  disclosed  the 
bluff,  barren  peaks  of  the  Ladrone,  and  neighboring 
islands,  called  by  the  Chinee  the  old  ten  thousand 
hills.  Our  approach  was  soon  descried  4>y  the  vigi- 
lant natives,  and  before  sunrise,  a tall,  muscular,  swar- 
thy man  came  on  board,  and  offered  himself  as  a 
pilot ; when  informed  that  his  services  were  not  re- 
quired, and  convinced  from  the  ill  success  of  his 
repeated  applications,  that  money  could  not  be  earned, 
he  eissumed  the  less  honorable  office  of  a beggar.  The 
same  means  were  adopted  by  others  who  succeeded 
him  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  tried  all  possible 
expedients  to  obtain  money  or  its  value. 

From  our  visitors  we  received  information  of  a 
variety  of  recent  events,  principally  relating  to  foreign 
residents  in  Canton,  some  of  which  were  fraught  with 
painful  interest.  Many  of  them  employed  a broken 
English  of  rather  ludicrous  peculiarity;  in  fact,  an 
unknown  tongue  to  the  uninitiated,  but  sufficient  to 
communicate  ideas  on  ordinary  topics,  to  those  who 
had  been  educated  in  the  same  school.  With  one, 
whom  the  captain  recognized,  an  agreement  was  soon 
made,  and  dispatches  forwarded  to  Canton.  -The 
time  to  which  he  was  limited,  and  on  which  his  re- 


46 


CHINA. 


compense  depended,  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  allow 
the  least  interval  of  rest,  although  his  countenance 
and  conduct  evinced  that  he  considered  ten  dollars, 
the  stipulated  sum,  an  ample  compensation.  The 
distance  from  the  place  he  met  us  is  probably  eighty 
miles  from  Canton,  and  the  risk  of  being  detected  by 
government  officers,  in  a business  interdicted  by  law, 
by  no  means  inconsiderable.  Between  eight  and  nine 
in  the  evening,  we  reached  the  anchorage  at  Lintin. 
This  entrance  of  the  ‘ celestial  regions,'  is  far  from 
interesting.  The  numerous  islands  are  rough  and 
desolate,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a few  spots  near 
the  sea,  there  is  scarcely  the  trace  of  man  or  beast,  or 
the  appearance  of  vegetation  to  be  discovered. 

20th.  Our  present  anchorage  is  the  depot  of  smug- 
glers, where  the  opium  ships  are  njoored,  and  whence 
this  deathful  drug,  to  the  amount  of  many  millions  of 
dollars  annually,  is  conveyed  throughout  the  empire. 
Among  the  boats  clandestinely  engaged  in  the  local 
traffic,  are  a number  commissioned  for  the  protection 
of  lawful  commerce,  but  which  are  as  actively  em- 
ployed against  the  interests  of  the  government,  as 
they  would  be  in  the  maintenance  of  its  laws,  if  with 
equal  facility,  and  more  gain,  the  revenue  officers  who 
have  them  in  charge  could  fulfil  the  duties  of  their 
appointment. 

This  afternoon,  for  the  first  time  in  one  hundred 
and  twenty-seven  days,  we  touched  our  feet  upon 


CHINA. 


47 


solid  ground,  and  though  on  a heathen  shore,  far  from 
our  native  land,  felt  a gratification  peculiar  to  the 
wave-tossed  prisoner,  when  released  from  his  tedious 
confinement.  It  was  the  island  of  Lintin,  the  resort 
and  habitation  of  fisherme^,  and  the  possession  of  a 
few  families,  who  cultivate  the  ground,  and  supply 
the  shipping  with  provisions.  To  those  who  have 
been  accustomed  to  attach  value  to  industry,  the 
striking  disproportion  be^een  labor  and  its  fruits 
will  not  fail  to  arrest  the  attention.  Almost  every 
foot  of  land  which  had  been  levelled  by  nature,  or 
could  be  reduced  by  art  was  in  cultivation,  while  the 
adjacent  springs  and  poi^^of  water  were  all  sub- 
mitted to  the  same  tax. 

We  attempted  to  enter  a small  village,  but  an  old 
man  came  out,  and^with  a courteous  air  of  authority 
forbade  us.  In  some  of  the  huts  near  the  beach,  they 
were  engaged  at  their  meals,  and  with  mouths  as  full 
as  could  be  crammed,  without  preventing  mastication, 
invited  us  to  stop  and  take  “ a little  chon  chou”  with 
them.  To  their  rice  they  impart  a flavor  by  a small, 
portion  of  meat,  fish,  or  vegetables.  These  condi- 
ments are  generally  placed  in  appropriate  vessels  on 
the  table,  if  they  have  one,  or  on  the  ground,  in  the 
midst  of  the  circle.  Each  one  is  supplied  with  a 
bowl  of  rice,  to  which  he  conveys  the  more  relishable 
articles,  by  means  of  two  small  sticks,  held  between 
the  thumb  and  fingers  of  the  right  hand  ; and  placing 


48 


CHINA. 


the  bowl  in  close  vicinity,  often  in  contact  with  the 
lower  jaw,  he  shovels  into  his  mouth  as  much  of  the 
rice  as  his  distended  cheeks  can  well  contain. 

The  fact  in  which  we  are  the  most  interested,  and 
one  which  we  cannot  consider,  without  reflecting 
upon  the  ignorance  and  apathy  of  the  Christian 
world,  is  the  unrestricted  intercourse  we  have  with 
multitudes,  who  welcome  us  to  their  huts  on  shore, 
and  come  around  us  in  the  ship  with  all  the  ingenu- 
ousness and  docility  of  children.  If  we  knew  their 
language,  there  is  not  the  least  reason,  why  we 
might  not  converse  with  them  as  freely  on  religious 
subjects,  as  on  all  others. 

26th.  As  the  ship  was  about  to  remain  at  Lintin  a 
number  of  days,  we  engaged  a native  boat  to  carry  us 
to  Macao,  about  eighteen  miles,  and  started  after  breaks 
fast  on  Monday.  The  intervening  islands  and  distant 
hills  present  the  same  sterile,  volcanic  aspect,  and 
scarcely  an  object  of  the  least  interest  is  seen  until  the 
bay  and  town  of  Macao  open  in  delightful  contrast 
to  the  view.  These  are  entirely  concealed  by  a pro- 
jecting point  of  land,  until  you  approach  their  imme- 
diate vicinity.  After  fruitless  conjectures  where  a 
European  town  of  the  least  size  could  be  situated 
amid  the  scenes  of  desolation  and  ruggedness  which 
appear  from  the  level  of  the  water,  the  change  is  sud- 
den and  unexpected.  A long  line  of  white  European 
buildings,  winding  with  a gentle  sweep,  around  the 


CHINA. 


49 


crescent  shore  of  the  bay,  large  military  and  ecclesi- 
astical establishments  crowning  the  summits  of  the 
hills,  with  a motley  group  of  chapels,  and  houses  of 
almost  every  size  and  construction,  burst  upon  the 
prospect  at  once,  and  hold  the  mind,  for  a moment,  in 
delightful  surprise. 

Macao  stands  upon  an  island,  or  rather  the  penin- 
sula of  an  island,  with  a beautiful  bay  in  front,  and  a 
sheet  of  water  in  the  rear.  The  irregular  surface  of 
the  town,  changing  its  appearance  with  every  new 
position,  encompassed  with  hill  and  dale,  scattered 
villages,  and  cultivated  fields,  islets  and  bays,  with  an 
extensive  and  diversified  water  scenery,  all  beheld  from 
the  adjacent  hills,  are  the  admiration  of  its  visitors. 

.Variety  is  the  most  remarkable  feature  in  the  build- 
ings. The  houses  occupied  by  foreign  merchants 
^and  European  Portuguese,  are  generally  spacious  and 
well  adapted  to  the  climate.  The  public  edifices,  and 
especially  the  churches,  though  some  of  them  are 
large,  and  the  latter  numerous,  display  nothing  pecu- 
liar in  exterior  or  furniture.  Much  of  the  town  is  in 
possession  of  the  Chinese,  and  consists,  according  to 
their  taste,  of  low,  confined  huts,  and  narrow,  filthy 
streets.  According  to  a recent  estimate,  the  number 
of  inhabitants  is  about  fifty  thousand,  of  whom,  forty- 
five  thousand  are  said  to  be  Chinese  ; others  suppose 
the  whole  amount  does  not  exceed  thirty,  or  thirty- 
I five  thousand.  Macao  is  the  residence  of  those  ladies 

5 


50 


CHINA. 


who  have  accompanied  their  husbands  to  China,  and 
the  summer  retreat  of  the  majority  of  foreigners 
engaged  in  commerce  at  Canton.  The  number  of 
English  families,  including  one  American,  does  not 
exceed  a dozen. 

One  of  the  principal  objects  of  curiosity,  to  the 
traveller,  is  the  grotto  of  Camoens,  where  the  poet 
composed  his  celebrated  Luciad.  It  is  inclosed  with- 
in the  pleasure  grounds  of  a private  residence,  and 
combines  the  advantages  of  fine  scenery,  refresh- 
ing air,  and  undisturbed  retirement.  It  is  form- 
ed of  three  large  rocks,  two  of  which  are  upright, 
and  support  the  third.  The  place  where  he  is  report- 
ed to  have  sat,  is  a small  cavity  in  one  of  the  rocks, 
wliich  at  present  is  occupied  by  a representative  of 
less  perishable  material.  With  a stern  contour,  a 
martial  air,  and  the  want  of  the  eye,  lost  in  the  Sara- 
cen wars,  there  is  very  little  to  remind  one  of  the 
poet,  whose  charming  verse,  according  to  his  country- 
men, could  scarcely  be  surpassed. 

The  history  of  Macao  is  involved  in  considerable 
uncertainty  ; but  those  points  of  inquiry  most  interest- 
ing to  the  Christian  community,  are  by  no  means  ob- 
scure. 

The  Portuguese  say  that  they  received  it  from  the 
emperor  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
as  an  expression  of  gratitude  for  expelling  a band  of 
pirates,  who,  making  it  their  head-quarters,  infested 


CHINA. 


51 


the  coast  and  blocked  up  the  port  of  Canton.  The 
Chinese  insist  upon  it,  that  the  place  was  gradually 
usurped  by  the  Portuguese,  in  their.previous  rage  for 
foreign  possessions,  and  recent  researches  show,  that 
if  the  former  are  correct,  they  cannot  produce  the 
emperor’s  grant  to  prove  it.  However  its  possession 
may  have  been  gained,  the  Jesuits  and  others  imme- 
diately took  the  colony  under  their  spiritual  charge, 
erected  churches,  founded  a monastery  and  college, 
and  opened  a communication  with  ditferent  parts  of 
the  interior.  If  the  purity  of  their  faith  had  harmo- 
nized with  the  force  of  their  misguided  zeal,  there  is 
every  reason  to  believe  this  Pagan  empire  would  have 
assumed  a different  aspect,  long  before  the  present. 
The  truth  would  probably  have  awakened  earlier 
persecution  ; but  it  would  neither  have  provoked  it 
by  anti-christian  measures,  nor  suffered  so  severely 
from  its  deadliest  rage. 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  to  what  extent  the 
fgrces  of  Catholicism,  have  been  weakened  in  Chi- 
na. Since  the  general  expulsion  of  the  European 
priests,  numbers  have  ventured,  and  are  continually 
venturing  into  the  interior,  although  they  have  gene- 
rally been  conveyed  to  their  charge  in  a clandestine 
manner.  Some  have  been  sent  from  Macao  to  Pekin, 
to  supply  the  board  of  mathematicians ; but  the  em- 
peror’s request,  and  their  avowed  object  in  its  compli- 
ance, were  equally  distinct  from  all  ecclesiastical 


52 


CHINA. 


interference.  Very  recently,  one  of  them  was  trans- 
ferred from  Pekin  to  Canton,  with  considerable  pomp, 
and  with  the  intention  of  returning  to  Europe.  It 
was  said  by  many,  to  be  a plan  of  the  emperor  to  get 
him  respectably  out  of  the  country  ; others  maintain 
that  he  requested  permission  to  visit  his  aged  mother 
before  her  death.  However  this  may  be,  I am  inform- 
ed that  at  present,  there  is  but  one  CathoUc  priest 
employed  in  the  emperor’s  service,  and  for  the  last 
twenty  years  no  others  have  been  invited.* 

In  the  college  of  St.  Joseph,  formerly  in  the  hands 
of  the  Jesuits,  there  is  a number  of  Chinese  youth, 
educated  at  the  expense  of  the  Portuguese  govern- 
ment, with  an  exclusive  reference  to  the  priesthood. 
These  are  ordained  as  missionaries  for  the  interior  ; 
other  natives  are  received  and  instructed  at  their  own 
charges.  Beside  this  institution,  there  are  about 

• The  following  estimate  of  the  Catholic  forces  was  obtained 
from  one  of  their  most  credible  priests,  by  a professed  friend  of 
both  of  us.  Connected  with  the 

French  mission,  are  two  bishops,  four  or  five  European  mission- 
aries, thirty  native  missionaries,  and  fifty-one  thousand  converts. 

Portuguese  mission,  one  bishop,  one  European  missionary, 
twenty-nine  native  missionaries,  and  eighty  thousand  converts.  At 
Macao  they  have  two  seminaries,  eight  European  missionaries,  and 
one  thousand  converts. 

Italian  mission,  four  European  missionaries,  thirty  thousand 
converts. 

Spanish  mission,  one  bishop,  two  European  missionaries,  and 
thirty-five  thousand  converts. 


CHINA. 


53 


twelve  churches,  and  forty  priests,  for  the  limited 
population,  professing  the  Catholic  faith. 

Our  attention  was  frequently  arrested  by  flocks 
of  women,  visiting  the  difierent  temples,  and  we 
were  constrained  to  believe  the  season  one  of  pe- 
culiar sanctity,  or  the  place  greatly  given  to  su- 
perstition. Whether  the  first  conjecture  was  cor- 
rect or  not,  the  narration  of  undisguised  facts  left 
no  grounds  to  doubt  the  other.  The  patron  saint, 
or  rather  tutelar  deity  of  the  place  is  St.  Anto- 
nio. Having  been  skilled  in  the  use  of  “carnal 
weapons,”  in  the  early  part  of  his  career,  he  is  exceed- 
ingly  popular  among  the  military,  and  represented 
as  a valuable  assistant  in  war.  When  the  Dutch 
attacked  the  place,  it  is  said  by  many,  that  he  appeared 
in  the  air,  and  routed  the  invaders  ; others  ascribe 
the  victory  to  the  timely  aid  of  John  the  Baptist, 
the  battle  having  occurred  upon  his  day.  The  Portu- 
guese government  allow  St.  Antonio  the  pay  of  cap- 
tain, and  honor  him  with,  or  require  from  him  in 
return,  an  annual  feast  of  thirteen  days’  continuance. 
According  to  my  informant,  who  is  one  of  their  num- 
ber, and  has  frequently  participated  in  the  festivities 
of  the  season,  they  suppose  it  by  no  means  inconsis- 
tent with  the  pleasure  of  the  saint  to  indulge  in 
excesses,  which  set  at  defiance  all  the  laws  of  tempe- 
■’^rance,  and  bring  their  religion  in  discredit  among 
their  heathen  neighbors.  It  is  difficult  to  conceive 

5* 


54 


CHINA. 


how  grosser  ideas  of  idolatiy  could  exist,  than  those 
which  prompt  some  of  the  acts  of  their  devotion  to 
this  deified  hero.  They  are  not  satisfied  with  “ bow- 
ing down  before  the  graven  image but  not  admitting 
the  very  heathen’s  distinction,  I should  say  his  pro- 
fessed distinction  between  his  represented  and  living 
deity,  they  carry  the  figure  in  procession,  with  mili- 
tary pomp,  to  make  an  annual  visit  to  the  image  of 
St.  Francis,  presiding  at  another  church. 

To  the  mind  of  one,  who  feels  an  interest  in  the 
conversion  of  the  world,  it  is  a painful  circumstance, 
that  the  only  spot  under  European  control,  in  the 
whole  empire  of  China,  should  exhibit  to  the  heathen 
the  most  gross  and  absurd  notions  of  that  holy  reli- 
gion, whose  name  they  attach  to  their  worse  than  Pa- 
gan abominations.  Macao  and  Manilla,  on  the  island 
of  Luzon,  which  are  among  the  most  advantageous  fo- 
reign posts  for  Chinese  missions,  are  subject  to  a pow- 
er, and  exert  an  influence  which  have  the  double  ten- 
dency to  keep  the  true  light  from  entering,  and  to  pre- 
judice the  minds  of  the  heathen  against  it,  should  it  pe- 
netrate. The  same  anti-christian  influence  prevails  in 
the  Chinese  island  of  Hainan,  where  it  is  said  the  Ca- 
tholic religion  is  still  quite  prevalent ; and  in  many  of 
the  adjacent  kingdoms  on  the  west  and  south,  where 
the  language  is  best  known,  and  the  intercourse  with 
China  most  frequent. 

Japan,  on  the  east,  has  been  arrayed  as  power- 


CHINA. 


55 


fully  against  the  religion  of  the  cross,  as  satanic  ma- 
lice could  desire ; so  that  by  means  of  this  spurious 
faith,  the  great  enemy  of  God  and  man,  has  attempted 
to  raise  impregnable  barriers  against  the  introduc- 
•tion  of  the  gospel  in  China.  But  how  vain  the  poli- 
cy and  forces  of  hell,  though  intimidating  to  the 
faithless  mmd  of  man,,  to  resist  the  power  and  wis- 
dom which  shall  soon  be  brought  to  bear  against 
them.  Every  difficulty  of  the  kind  should  but  sim- 
plify and  strengthen  our  faith  in  that  word,  which 
is  pledged  to  destroy  them  all,  and  the  striking  and 
speedy  accomplishment  of  Avhich,  shall  doubtless  be  a 
subject  of  admiration  and  gratitude,  to  all  the  follow- 
ers of  Christ. 

In  the  town,  and  immediate  vicinity  of  Macao, 
are  several  Chinese  temples,  to  which  a few  priests 
of  the  Budah  sect  are  attached.  The  most  remarka- 
ble one  is  situated  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  town. 
It  consists  of  a number  of  small  buildings  on  the  ac- 
clivity of  quite  a steep  hill,  grouped  in  a fanciful 
manner,  with  large  upright  rocks,  and  overhanging 
trees.  The  rough  lines  of  nature,  and  the  polish  of 
art,  are  blended  in  striking  contrast,  in  this  grotesque 
form  of  pagan  superstition.  The  principal  part  of 
the  time  unoccupied  in  our  excursions,  was  agreea- 
bly passed  in  the  family  of  Dr.  Morrison,  who  had 
left  the  place  but  a few  days  before  our  arrival.  We 
were  happy  to  learn,  that  the  Doctor  had  the  recent 


56 


CHINA. 


gratification  of  baptizing  another  native  convert. 
The  English  Factory,  during  their  semi-annual  resi- 
dence here,  are  allowed  to  have  service  performed  by 
their  chaplain,  and  Dr.  Morrison  is  not  prevented 
from  holding  a religious  exercise,  every  sabbath,  in 
his  own  dwelling. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th,  we  left  this  plea- 
sant retreat,  and  wafted  by  a fresh  breeze  reach- 
ed the  ship  about  noon.  As  each  one  expected 
tliat  some  of  the  rest  would  cater  for  our  break- 
fast, we  were  obliged  to  satisfy  a craving  ap- 
petite upon  the  boiled  rice  and  salted  cabbage  of 
our  temperate  boatmen.  On  our  arrival,  we  found 
that  a small  European  vessel  had  been  sent  for  us, 
from  Canton,  but  owing  to  the  uncertainty  of  our 
return,  had  sailed.  The  event  left  us  to  the  choice 
of  remaining  a number  of  days  in  the  ship,  in  this 
cold  and  rainy  season,  or  of  venturing  in  a native 
“fast  boat,”  against  one  of  their  barbarous  prohibi- 
tions. We  soon  decided  on  the  latter  alternative, 
and  left  the  ship  in  the  twilight  of  evening.  We 
were  obliged  to  pass  the  night  in  an  apartment  fitted 
up  for  the  lodgings  of  the  boatmen,  and  the  resi- 
dence of  their  gods.  A group  of  small  gilded  ima- 
ges, seated  in  a shrine,  decorated  with  colored  paper, 
occupied  one  corner,  and  received  the  homage  of  the 
crew.  Before  the  shrine  an  incense  stick  of  sandal-' 
wood  was  kept  lighted,  and  a lamp  burning.  The 


% 


I 

i 


CHINA. 


57 


cabin,  in  which  the  idols,  part  of  the  crew,  ourselves, 
and  baggage,  were  stowed,  was  so  low,  that  we  could 
barely  sit  upright.  After  changing  position  as 
often  as  an  opposing  wind  changed  the  course  of  our 
boat,  we  found  ourselves  at  day-break  but  a very 
short  distance  abov6  the  last  fort.  This  was  a point 
of  safety,  which  the  men  had  toiled  hard  and 
silently  to  gain,  before  the  light  should  expose  us  to 
those  on  shore.  During  the  morning,  though  they 
scrutinized  with  a good  glass  every  object  of  suspi- 
cion, they  appeared  to  place  so  much  dependence  upon 
the  performance  of  their  brigantine,  and  their  own 
muscular  assistance,  as  to  dismiss  all  apprehension, 
and  labor  with  much  cheerfulness.  In  fact,  as  far  as 
we  are  capable  of  judging,  liveliness  is  a prominent 
characteristic  of  the  Chinese. 

Low  lands  appropriated  to  the  culture  of  rice, 
and  ranges  of  hills,  with  no  other  verdure  than  a 
few  scattering  trees,  made  up  the  scenery,  between 
our  position  at  day-break,  and  Whampoa.  A few 
temples  appeared  in  diiferent  parts  of  the  low  lands, 
and  one  of  considerable  elevation  crowned  the  sum- 
mit of  a high  hill. 

■ About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  we  reached 
Whampoa,  the  principal  anchorage  for  vessels  en- 
gaged in  lawful  traffic  with  China.  A recent  diffi- 
culty with  the  government  had  detained  the  stately 
ships  employed  in  the  service  of  the  East  India  Com- 


58 


CHINA. 


pany ; and  the  yearly  fleet  consisting  of  twenty  ves- 
sels, or  upwards,  with  those  of  other  nations  em- 
ployed in  the  China  trade,  were  moored  within  a 
short  distance  of  each  other.  The  number  of  sea- 
men engaged  in  the  company’s  service,  and  attached 
to  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  varies  but  little  from 
three  thousand.  What  a congregation  might  be 
gathered  from  those  who  speak  the  English  lan- 
guage, if  the  walls  of  national  and  ecclesiastical  sepa- 
ration were  entirely  demolished,  and  if  the  custom 
of  keeping  holy  the  Lord’s  day,  were  universally 
observed. 

The  distance  between  Whampoa  and  Canton  is 
about  twelve  miles.  A strong  opposing  current 
kept  us  four  hours  on  the  way,  and  made  it  nine  in 
the  evening,  before  we  arrived.  For  some  time  after 
we  started,  the  light  of  day  disclosed  every  remarka- 
ble object,  on  land  and  water.  Among  the  former 
are  large  pagodas,  towering  in  the  air,  and  dark- 
ened and  mouldering  with  age.  Two  of  them 
are  situated  on  small  eminences,  “ high  places,”  com- 
pared with  the  surrounding  country,  and  stand 
forth  with  commanding  prominence.  They  are 
nine  stories  in  height,  of  an  octagonal  form,  with 
doors  or  niches  on  each  side  of  every  story,  and 
gradually  diminishing  in  circumference  to  the  top.^ 
Their  sides  and  summits  are  partially  covered  with 
shrubs  and  herbage,  springing  from  beds  of  earth, 


CHINA. 


59 


which  it  must  have  required  ages  to  collect,  and  con- 
solidate.* 

As  might  be  expected,  there  is  a great  variety  in 
the  structure  and  internal  arrangements  of  their  boats. 
Those  intended  for  sea  are  too  primitive  and  clumsy 
to  be  any  thing  but  the  products  of  the  earliest  and 
dullest  invention.  The  bow  and  stern  arise  to  a 
great  elevation,  and  present  such  a dangerous  sur- 
face to  the  wind,  as  to  account  for  the  numerous 
losses  sustained  every  year.  European  improve- 
ments, if  fancied,  are  disallowed.  Some  of  the  small 
government  barges  display  a degree  of  taste  and  skill 
in  construction,  which  form  a strong  contrast  to  the 
mass  around  them.  The  consequence  and  curse 
of  spiritual  ignorance,  alas,  too  common  where  that 
ignorance  is  wilful,  are  apparent  in  many  of  the 
boats  decorated  and  furnished  to  decoy  '•Hhe  simple^^ 
and  lead  him  “ into  paths  inclining  unto  the  dead.'' 

We  had  scarcely  gained  halfour  distance,  when 

“ * * * * **  Sorrowing  we  beheld 

The  night  come  on,  but  soon  did  night  display 
More  wonders  than  it  veiled.” 

As  the  shades  of  evening  darkened  around  us, 

♦ These  towers  were  erected  by  the  decendants  of  Dchingis 
Khan,  in  the  Yuen  dynasty,  during  the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth 
centuries.  It  was  a prevalent  superstition  of  the  times,  that  they 
were  effectual  in  repressing  demoniacal  and  noxious  influences 
in  the  surrounding  country,  and  that  their  efficacy  was  graduated 
by  their  height. 


60 


CHINA. 


great  numbers  of  lamps  broke  through  the  gloom, 
and  appeared  either  ranged  in  rows,  almost  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  or  changing  their  position,  and 
varying  the  general  aspect,  according  to  the  differ- 
ent directions  of  the  moving  vessels.  The  scene  was 
more  like  magic,  than  reality,  and  calculated  to  awaken 
ideas,  or  call  up  visions,  which  seldom  visit  collected 
minds  in  wakeful  hours.  As  we  approached  the  city, 
our  progress  became  more  interrupted  by  the  crowds 
of  boats,  and  when  we  arrived  within  a short  dis- 
tance of  the  landing  place,  such  was  their  density 
that  the  men  were  obliged  to  exchange  their  oars 
for  short  paddles,  and  work  their  way  through  what- 
ever opening  they  could  find  or  form. 

On  Thursday,  February’’,  2nih,  1830,  we  reached 
our  ultimate  destination,  and  were  most  kindly  re- 
ceive d by  C.  W.  Talbot,  Esq.,  the  consular  agent, *■ 
whose  father  and  brother  were  our  fellow  passengers, 
and  to  whose  hospitality  we  were  commended  by  our 
friends  in  America.  Upon  learning  our  arrival,  we 
were  visited  by  Dr.  Morrison,  who,  as  might  be  ex- 
pected, welcomed  fellow  missionaries  into  this  long 
neglected  field  with  no  ordinary  joy.  A career  of 
more  than  two  and  twenty  year’s  labor,  under  the 
many  embarrassments  and  trials,  which  were  expe- 

* It  is  but  justice  to  mention  that  myself,  and  companion  spent 
all  our  time  in  this  house,  and  received  every  possible  facility  for  the 
prosecution  of  our  duties  with  the  utmost  readiness,  and  without 
the  least  expense. 


CHINA. 


61 


rienced  especially  at  first — without  the  permanent  as- 
sistance of  a single  companion — and  particularly  after 
the  sentence  of  death  begins  to  be  felt  in  a body  shat- 
tered by  toil  and  anxieties,  might  be  supposed  a suf- 
ficient preparative  to  the  welcome  reception  of  those 
whose  avowed  object  is  the  same,  and  who  are  ex- 
pected to  find  their  highest  interest  in  its  promotion. 
From  many  of  the  residents,  and  especially  from 
those  of  our  own  countrymen,  to  whom  we  had  let- 
ters, we  soon  enjoyed  all  those  polite  and  kind  at- 
tentions which  are  calculated  to  reconcile  a stranger 
to  an  abode  in  foreign  parts. 


k 

I 


I3-  ^ T • » ^ J4^  ? ^c« 


* -^*’fc(|(M»« 


j<i-  ^il>^  »w>iiM»  aii  t In[4 

.4 

aN»: 

'>^5.-  ' ^Jk-  ■"’ 


CHAPTER  III.  - 


CHINA — CANTON  AND  ITS  VICINITY. 

It  may  be  acceptable  to  the  reader,  to  interrupt 
the  chain  of  events,  as  they  occurred  in  chronological 
order,  and  present  at  the  commencement  a picture  of  ^ 
Canton,  and  the  places  and  objects  in  its  vicinity, 
which  are  the  most  worthy  of  notice. 

The  oily  staiids  upon  the  north  bank  of  the 
Chookeang  or  Pearl  river,  nearly  eighty  miles  from 
the  sea.  Its  site  is  almost  a perfect  level ; it  is  bound- 
ed in  the  rear  by  a range  of  naked,  uninteresting 
hills.  Including  the  river  and  neighborhood,  the 
population  has  been  estimated  at  fifteen  hundred 
thousand.  The  city  itself  is  surrounded  by  walls, 
within  which^  the  stranger  is  not  allowed  to  enter  ; 
the  suburbs  or  unwalled  town,  probably  of  equal  ex- 
tent and  populousness,  is  accessible  to  foreigners. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  locality  of  the  place,  the  ar- 
rangement of  its  streets,  or  the  style  of  its  buildings, 
calculated  to  call  forth  the  admiration  of  the  visitor. 

The  scene,  it  is  true,  affords  abundant  interest  to  the 
stranger ; but  it  is  the  exclusive  interest  of  novelty. 


64 


CHINA. 


and  soon  leaves  the  mind  without  an  agreeable  recol- 
lection. The  houses  are  generally  low,  narrow,  and 
exceedingly  compact.  Some  of  the  factories  or  hongs, 
especially  those  occupied  by  the  tea-merchants,  are 
immensely  spacious,  and  contain  a vast  number  of 
compartments  ; but  you  are  obliged  to  enter  them 
before  you  can  determine  their  locality,  as  there  is 
nothing  to  designate  them,  either  in  front  or  height. 

The  width  of  the  streets,  varies  from  about  fif- 
teen to  three  feet,  measuring  from^house  to  house,  and 
the  medium  proportion  of  the  city  would  probably 
not  exceed  eight  feet.  Li  passing  through  even  the 
business  districts,  I have  frequently  extended  my 
arms,  and  reached  the  opposite  houses.  The  princi- 
pal streets  are  occupied  by  merchants  and  mechan- 
ics, and  their  shops  are  so  constructed  as  to  open  in 
fi-ont,  and  expose  their  contents  to  the  observation  of 
the  passenger.  Boards,  with  large  painted  or  gild- 
ed characters,  intended  for  signs,  are  placed  before 
each  door,  and,  facing  the  direction  of  the  street,  con- 
stitute its  most  ornamental  objects. 

Tsades  are  generally  found  in  close  vicinity. 
Tlie  difierent  classes  of  mechanics  bind  themselves 
to  certain  conventional  regulations,  and  each  party 
has  a public  hall  of  meeting  for  consultation,  feasting, 
and  dramatic  amusements.  Those  articles  most 
saleable  to  foreigners,  are  brought  to  the  streets  ad- 
jacent the  factories.  It  is  a matter  of  at  letist  amu- 


CHINA. 


¥ 

66 


sing  interest,  to  examine  the  heterogeneous  contents  of 
many  of  these  shops,  and  no  less  so,  to  find  that  the  spi- 
rit of  the  proprietor  is  still  more  accommodating  than 
his  well  stored  house.  If  your  search  is  not  rewarded 
with  the  required  article,  you  have  only  to  inquire, 
and  if  attainable  any  where,  or  by  any  means,  within 
your  specified  conditions,  you  have  entered  the  right 
shop  and  need  proceed  no  farther. 

Economy  of  room,  to  the  exclusion  of  comfort, 
convenience  or  cleanliness,  appears  the  sole  object 
in  the  lanes,  where  the  women  and  children  are  ken- 
neled. This  is  the  only  specimen  of  domestic  life 
within  the  allowed  range  of  the  foreigner,  and  it  is 
said  that  the  families  of  persons  of  considerable 
wealth  are  obliged  to  exist  under  these  circumstan- 
ces. It  requires  a degree  of  courage  and  perseverance 
to  thread  the  mazes  of  some  of  these  alleys,  and  emerge 
into  air  and  space.  Elbows  and  angles,  of  almost 
every  name,  formed  by  the  blind  corners  of  buildings, 
oppose  the  progress  of  the  venturer,  and  if  he  dare 
proceed,  perplex  him  with  their  multiplicity.  At  the 
corners  of  the  streets  are  wickets,  which  can  be  read- 
ily closed,  and  are  well  calculated  to  separate  a rab- 
ble, or  confine  a thief.  These  are  shut  at  night,  and 
guarded  by  watchmen. 

Notwithstanding  the  limited  space  between  the 
houses,  the  passage-way  of  the  streets  is  in  many 


66 


CHINA. 


places  still  more  straightened  by  the  stands  of  butch- 
ers, fishmongers,  fruiterers,  hucksters,  mechanics, 
quacks,  and  often  by  jugglers,  story-tellers,  and 
gamblers,  with  their  attendants.  As  the  articles  ex- 
posed to  sale  in  the  streets  are  chiefly  adapted  to  the 
necessities  of  the  day,  the  extreme,  to  which  the  prin- 
ciple of  accommodation  is  carried,  furnish  a criterion 
of  the  pecuniary  circumstances  of  the  mass  of  the  peo- 
ple. Poultry  and  fish  are  dissected  into  very  minute 
portions.  A quarter  of  a fowl,  the  head  and  neck,  and 
frequently  the  entrails  alone,  are  all  to  which  their  abil- 
ity extends.  This  of  course  is  the  luxury,  and  design- 
ed merely  to  give  a relish  to  their  ordinary  and  less 
extravagant  fare.  Vegetables,  from  their  cheapness, 
are  so  indispensable  to  the  daily  support  of  the  com- 
munity, that  they  are  exposed  to  sale  in  the  streets, 
in  the  greatest  profusion.  But  what  is  the  most 
amusing,  is  the  display  of  teas  in  the  shops.  The 
Chinese,  as  is  known,  universally  drink  the  black  teas. 
These  are  sold,  not  simply  according  to  their  quali- 
ties, but  according  to  the  strength,  wlijch  remains, 
after  their  virtues  have  been  partially  and  often  prin- 
cipally extracted  by  less  indigent  purchasers. 

Fruits  abound  in  Canton.  It  is  true,  that  those 
indigenous  to  temperate  regions  are  of  an  inferior 
quality,  but  the  tropical  varieties  arrive  at  a high 
perfection,  and  a few  species  are  common,  which  are 


CHINA. 


6T 


designated  by  Chinese  names,  and  probably  limited 
to  the  empire.* 

Beside  the  vigilance  and  skill  required  in  navi- 
gating this  channel,  so  narrowed  and  obstructed  by 
the  numerous  articles  referred  to,  it  is  necessary  to 
comfort  and  cleanliness,  to  catch  the  warnings,  and 
watch  the  motions  of  the  porters,  who  carry  all  move- 
able  bodies  upon  their  shoulders,  and  who  constitute 
no  inconsiderable  portion  of  the  moving  multitude. 
Their  burden  is  suspended  to  the  ends  or  centre  of 
bamboos,  according  to  its  separability  and  weight, 
and  transferred,  however  bulky  and  ponderous,  to 
any  distance,  and  with  much  dispatch. 

Such  is  the  number  of  these  laborers,  that  their 
voices  are  constantly  ringing  in  your  ears,  and  such  is 
the  throng  which  opposes  them,  that  their  progress  de- 
pends almost  as  much  on  their  lungs  as  their  muscles. 

One  class,  cg.lled  by  the  Chinese,  “ horses  with- 
out tails,”  address  you  in  a more  authoritative  tone. 
These  are  the  bearers'  of  men  of  some  distinction 
and  wealth,  who  generally  appear  abroad  in  sedan 
chairs,  and  often  take  up  so  much  of  the  small  streets 
with  their  vehicles,  as  to  leave  but  a dangerous  space 
between  them  and  the  houses. 

• Among  the  fruits  are  the  following  ; oranges,  lemons,  shad- 
docks, pomegranates,  grapps,  pears,  peaches,  plums,  ananas,  bana- 
nas, mangoes,  papaw,  lie-chel,  long-yuen,  or-lams,  diospyrns,  lo- 
quat,  long-hok,  parsimmons,  &c. 


68 


CHINA. 


Among  the  objects  most  calculated  to  attract  the 
attention  and  arouse  the  sympathies  of  the  Christian, 
are  the  indices  of  their  moral  debaBement.  Their 
temples  are  numerous,  their  gods  without  number. 
One  idol,  and  frequently  more,  are  seated  in  state, 
in  every  temple,  while  others,  of  probably  inferior 
dignity,  and  office,  are  standing  near.  Some  of  these 
are  frightful  looking  figures  ; all  are  gross  in  form, 
answering  to  their  notions  of  bodily  elegance,  or 
rather  of  bodily  comfort,  which  appears  to  a China- 
man, of  higher  importance.  The  structure  of  the 
temple,  as  well  as  the  number  and  arrangement  of 
the  images,  depend  upon  the  tenets  of  the  sect  to 
which  they  belong. 

The  three  leading  sects  in  China  are  known,  in 
the  Mandarin  dialect,  by  the  names  of  Joo,  Fuh, 
Taou,  i.  e.,  the  Confucians,  Buddhists,  and  the  Taou, 
or  Alchymic  sect,  “ the  mystics  of  t^e  heathen  world  . 
in  China.” 

The  first  and  last  originated  in  China,  the  other 
was  introduced  from  India,  soqn  after  the  Christian 
era,  and,  principally  by  means  of  the  circulation  of 
tracts,  has  become  the  most  prevalent  superstition  in 
the  empire.  The  Buddhists  and  Taou  sect  inculcate 
future  rewards  and  punishments,  decking  the-  former 
in  all  the  charms  of  sensuality  and  sloth,  and  repre- 
senting the  latter  by  every  horrid  combination  of 
bodily  torture. 


A 

CHINA.  69 

Notwithstanding  all  the  admiration  heaped  upon 
Confucius  and  his  system,  by  ignorance  in  the  empire 
and  infidelity  in  more  enlightened  parts,  the  phi- 
losopher confessed  that  he  “ knew  but  little  about  the 
gods,  and  therefore  preferred  saying  nothing  on  the 
subject.”  Respecting  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and 
its  future  retribution,  he  advances  not  a sentiment. 
The  common  opinion  of  his  followers  is,  that  virtue 
is  rewarded  and  vice  punished  only  in  the  individuals 
or  in  their  posterity  on  earth.  They  speak  of  the 
immortal  principle,  as  “annihilated,”  “melted,”  “scat- 
tered” at  death. 

From  one  of  the  native  books,  it  appears  there  are 
in  China  upwards  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  and 
sixty  temples  dedicated  to  Confucius.  About  sixty- 
two  thousand  victims,  bullocks,  pigs,  sheep,  deer,  are 
annually  sacrificed,  and  twenty-seven  thousand  six 
hundred  pieces  of  silk  offered  to  the  manes  of  the 
saige.  This  is  the  wisdom  of  the  learned  heathen, 
who  generally  teach  that  “death  is  annihilation,”  and 
who  sometimes  affirm  that  there  is  neither  “ God, 
angels,  nor  spirits.”  To  whom,  to  what  do  they  pre- 
sent these  offerings  ? Like  many  in  Christiem  lands, 
these  very  persons  show  the  insincerity  of  their  pro- 
fessions in  the  prospect  of  death.  Then  the  priests 
of  Budh,*  whom  they  despise  and  ridicule  in  health, 


i 


70 


CHINA. 


are  called  in  to  give  the  mind  some  support  under  its 
dread,  if  not  its  consciousness  of  immortality. 

Beside  the  numerous  temples  in  the  city,  small 
images  answering  to  their  notions  of  district  gods,  are 
placed  in  the  corner  of  the  streets,  which  receive 
the  homage  of  the  neighborhood.  Not  satisfied  with 
these,  every  house  has  its  family  altar,  either  before 
the  door  or  in  the  principal  room,  frequently  in  both 
places.  Those  in  front  of  the  house  are  generally 
small  alcoves  in  a projecting  platform,  furnished  with 
a few  idols,  or  more  commonly  with  the  Chinese  writ- 
ten character,  signifying  God,  or  superior  being.  As 
you  walk  out  in  the  evening,  the  fumes  of  sandal- 
wood, of  which  their  incense  stick  is  made,  accost 
the  senses  in  every  direction,  and  their  light  almost 
answers  for  city  lamps  in  these  narrow  streets.  These, 
with  a few  wax  tapers,  and  one  or  two  unmeaning 
bows  of  the  person  who  prepares  them,  are  the  daily 
offerings  made  to  the  images  of  China. 

The  popular  religion  of  China,  if  definable  at 
all-  by  limits  or  language,  is  probably  made  up  of 
a combination  of  tenets  held  by  the  different  sects 
in  the  empire,  with  a mixture  of  notions  and  cus- 
toms, which  neither  system  originated,  but  the 
votaries  of  each  practise.  Among  these  customs,  are 
sacrificing  to  the  dead,  and  burning  gold  and  silver 
paper  on  religious  occasions.  If  there  be  any  thing. 


CHINA. 


71 


which  to  their  minds  appears  the  most  sacred  of  all 
observances,  it  is  the  former,  if  not  both  of  these 
customs.* 

The  observance  of  the  fifteenth  day  of  the  moon, 
and  its  full,  are  almost  universal.  With  a people  fond 
of  sloth  and  addicted  to  sensuality ; iu  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at  that  feast  days  should  be  popu- 
lar, and  their  frequent  recurrence  welcome  to 
those  who  have  the  means  of  providing  for  them. 
Among  the  most  prevalent  of  their  doctrines  is  the 
Buddhistic  notion  of  transmigration,  which  hangs  “in 
terrorem”  over  the  more  sedate  and  thinking  class  of 
the  nation.  According  to  the  excellent  Dr.  Milne,t 
“When  we  behold  the  b6st  df  the  rulers  of  China 
and  the  most  enlightened  of  her  sages,  (e.  g.  Confucius) 
worshipping  any  god  or  no  god  at  all,  just  as  suited 
time,  place,  and  the  taste  of  the  age,  what  shall  we 
think  of  their  hearts,  virtues,  and  productions  1 Can 
we  suppose  those  systems  capable  of  directing  the 

* The  following  exhortation  is  taken  from  one  of  their  moral 
works ; 

“While  (parents  are)  alive,  on  going  out  of  doors, inform  them; 
on  returning,  show  them  your  face. — When  dead,  also  when  going 
abroad,  mention  it  (before  the  tablet  which  they  set  up  in  every 
house,  at  the  decease  of  parents  and  relatives,)  when  you  return 
keep  a feast  before  them,  seme  them  when  dead,  just  as  when  alive.” 

t In  his  retrospect  of  the  first  ten  years  of  the  Protestant  mis- 
sion to  China,  p.  28. 


72 


CHINA. 


bulk  of  the  people  to  God,  which  left  their  authors  to 
worship  the  heavens,  and  the  earth,  mountains,  and 
rivers,  the  gods  of  the  kitchen,  and  the  spirits  of  the 
dead?”  “The  current  of  Chinese  idolatry  widened 
and  deepened  as  it  flowed,  by  the  accession  of  tribu- 
tary streams  from  Western  and  Eastern  Tartary. 
Most  of  the  forms  of  mythology  which  make  any 
figure  in  the  page  of  history,  now  exist  in  China,  ex- 
cept that  their  indecent  parts,  and  their  direct  tenden- 
cy to  injure  human  life,  have  been  cut  ofi".  China  has 
her  Diana,  her  .dEolus,  her  Ceres,  her  Esculapius, 
her  Mars,  her  Mercury,  her  Neptune,  and  her  Pluto, 
as  well  £is  the  western  Pagans  had.  To  use  their 
own  expression,  ‘her  gods  are  in  number  hke  the 
sands  of  Havy  river.’  She  has  gods  celestial,  terres- 
trial, and  subterraneous — gods  of  the  hills,  of  the 
valleys,  of  the  woods,  of  the  districts,  of  the  family,  of 
tire  shop,  and  of  the  kitchen.  She  adores  the  gods 
who  are  supposed  to  preside  over  the  thunder,  the 
rain,  the  fire,  over  the  grain,  over  birihs  and  deaths, 
and  over  the  small-pox.  She  also  worships  the  genii 
of  the  mountains,  rivers,  lakes  and  seas,  together  with 
birds,  beasts  and  fishes.” 

“ Astrology,  divination,  geomancy  and  necroman- 
cy, every  where  prevail;  spells  and  charms  every 
one  possesses.” 

As  might  be  expected,  the  god  of  wealth  is  the 
most  popular  deity  among  the  tradesmen  and  raer- 


CHINA. 


73 


chants.  He  is  represented  with  a wedge  of  gold  in 
one  hand. 

On  the  door  of  their  houses  a figure  is  painted, 
which  they  call  the  god  of  the  door.  His  protection  is 
deemed  of  incalculable  importance  to  the  family.  The 
inscription  of  his  name  is  often  employed  as  a substi- 
tute. 

To  a foreigner,  the  compressed  feet  of  many  of 
the  women,  met  in  the  streets  of  Canton,  is  an  object 
of  much  curiosity.  That  nature  would  admit  such 
a distortion  or  robbery,  or  rather  both,  I did  not  ex- 
pect. The  smallest  are  said,  by  the  Chinese,  to  be 
but  three  inches  in  length,  four  is  certainly  not  too 
large  an  estimate.  In  fact,  it  does  not  deserve  the 
name  of  foot,  for  there  is  nothing  but  the  great  toe,  if 
great  applies  to  such  an  object,  left  in  its  natural  po- 
sition ; while  all  the  others  are  wrested  from  their 
appointed  place  and  office,  bent  under  the  ball  of  the 
foot,  and  there  made  to  answer  the  purpose  of  its  sole. 
This  accounts  for  their  painful  and  unnatural  gait. 
The  ancle,  at  least  in  many  cases,  is  not  enlarged,  as 
has  been  frequently  stated.  This  custom,  though  by  no 
means  universal,  is  not  restricted  to  the  higher  circles 
of  society.  Women  in  the  most  straitened  circum- 
stances, often  in  mendicant  poverty,  are  seen  waddling 
with  careful  steps  in  pursuit  of  their  daily  support. 
These,  however,  they  say  have  been  reduced  in  pe- 
cuniary circumstances. 

The  fraternity  of  beggars  are  objects  of  true  com- 

7 


74 


CHINA. 


passion,  and  made  themselves  objects  of  notice  in  Can- 
ton. This  class  is  very  numerous  in  China,  and  wheth- 
er an  indispensable  requisite  to  office,  or  a necessary 
argument  to  the  sympathies  of  a Chinaman,  there  are 
very  few  exceptions  to  universal  and  total  blindness. 
When  alone,  each  one  feels  his  way  with  a stick  ; but 
frequently,  a number  strmg  themselves  in  a row,  and 
depend  upon  the  sagacity  of  a blind  leader,  or  the 
more  favored  eyes  of  a youthful  guide.  The  success 
of  their  application  is  closely  connected  with  the  skill- 
fill  use  of  bamboo  sticks,  iron  pans,  musical  instru- 
ments, and  their  own  vocal  powers ; and  such  is  the 
force  of  custom,  that  when  they  enter  a house,  they 
are  never  expelled  until  their  object  is  gained.  It  is 
pohcy  not  to  be  too  hasty  in  answering  their  requests, 
otherwise  the  same  grating  application  is  likely  to  be 
forthwith  repeated,  by  an  instinctive  successor,  who 
never  interrupts  music,  nor  suffers  a long  pause. 
Groups  of  them  frequently  unite,  and  set  up  a concert 
of  all  their  instruments,  in  one  place.  As  you  walk 
through  the  streets  some  days,  there  is  scarcely  a shop 
from  which  these  sounds  do  not  proceed. 

One  company  sally  forth  at  twihght,  and  go  the 
rounds  of  some  of  the  principal  streets,  contiguous  to 
the  factories,  including  the  walk  in  front  of  the  fo- 
reign buildings.  Their  application  is  usually  chanted 
in  mournful  strains,  and  the  whole  region  is  made 
vocal  with  their  numerous  and  dissonant  voices.  A 
Chinaman  is  stationed  before  the  factories,  ycleped 


CHINA. 


75 


“king  of  the  beggars,”  who  preserves  order  among 
them  in  his  dominions. 

There  is  said  to  be  an  organized  association  of 
beggars,  in  Canton,  consisting  of  about  one  thousand 
members,  and  bearing  the  epithet  of  “ The  Heavenly 
Flower  Society.”  These  pay  a fee  of  admittance, 
bind  themselves  to  certain  rules,  and  when  diso- 
bedient incur  a severe  penalty.  The  government 
recognizes  a head  man  among  them,  who  is  made 
accountable  for  the  conduct  of  the  whole  community. 
Below  these  objects,  in  the  scale  of  human  degrada- 
tion, are  a few  of  the  most  loathsome  and  miserable 
beings  I ever  beheld.  Withtmatted  hair,  bodies  par- 
tially incrusted  with  dirt,  and  covered  with  vermin, 
and  but  a tattered  mat  to  conceal  their  nakedness, 
they  wander  about,  eating  the  rejected  offals  of  fish 
and  vegetables,  and  lodging  on  whatever  heap  of  rub- 
bish they  may  stumble  over,  when  sleepy.  Some 
of  them  are  outcast  lepers,  who  are  obliged  by  law  to 
wear  a peculiar  hat  and  mat  around  the  shoulders, 

■ to  designate  them  as  objects  of  infection. — See  Le- 
' viticus,  xiii.  45. 

Surrounded  by  the  city,  or  the  unwalled  town, 
which  has  been  described,  and  in  a line  with  the 
1 river,  are  the  factories  assigned  to  the  foreign  resi- 
le dents  in  Canton.  They  are  separated  from  the 
1 shore  of  the  river,  by  the  largest  and  almost  the  only 
) open  space  in  the  vicinity.  The  two  occupied  by 


76 


CHINA. 


the  agentS'of  the  Dutch  and  English  companies,  have 
extensive  verandahs  in  front,  and  walks  inclosed  by 
high  walls  to  the  water’s  edge.  The  majority  of 
them  are  built  in  a row,  and  extend  probably  one 
hundred  yards  in  front.  A street  and  a large  project- 
ing building,  occupied  by  one  of  the  hong  merchants, 
separates  this  row  from  others,  known  by  the  name 
of  the  French  and  Danish  factories.  All  the  factories 
extend  in  blocks,  to  an  irregular  depth,  and ‘are 
separately  occupied  by  merchants  and  visitors.  The 
communication  is  an  avenue,  generally  through  the 
lower  story  of  each,  or  between  distinct  compartments. 
The  appearance  of  these  buildings,  and  especially 
in  contrast  with  the  neighborhood,  is  quite  imposing. 

..  The  open  space  before  the  factories  is  the  ren- 
dezvous of  multitudes  of  the  natives,  who  assemble 
daily,  to  transact  business,  gratify  curiosity,  or  mur- 
der time.  It  is  level,  for  a short  distance,  beyond  which 
it  stretches  over  a large  pile  of  rubbish,  deposited  here 
after  the  desolating  fire  of  1822,  and  retained,  notwith- 
standing numerous  applications  for  its  removal,  as  a 
lasting  and  growing  nuisance  to  foreigners. 

As  the  morning  opens  upon  this  scene,  silence  re- 
tires and  the  ears  of  the  stranger  are  assailed  by  a new 
and  peculiar  combination  of  sounds.  Human  voices  of 
harsh,  drawling  tones,  cries  of  confined  dogs  and  cats, 
screams  of  roughly  handled  poultry,  notes  of  feath- 
ered songsters,  some  of  them  admirably  gifted  and 


CHINA. 


77 


trained,  with,  at  times,  an  accompaniment  of  very 
unmusical  instruments,  all  unite  in  this  inharmoni- 
ous concert. 

The  occupations  of  the  tradesmen  are  varied. 
Meats,  fish,  vegetables,  fruits,  drugs,  manufactures, 
every  thing  saleable  is  brought  to  this  general  mar- 
ket. A number  convey  their  portable  kitchens  hither, 
and  prepare  such  dishes,  as  suit  the  palates  and 
purses  of  this  promiscuous  concourse.  Others  plant 
their  barber’s  shop,  or  its  necessary  apparatus,  in  a 
convenient  place,  and  spend  their  leisure  hours  in 
lolling  about,  and  conversation.  Those  who  fre- 
quent the  place  for  trade  are  probably  less  numerous 
than  the  groups  of  idlers,  who  pass  their  time  in  lis- 
tening to  stories,  witnessing  juggling  tricks,  attend- 
ing the  operations  and  lectures  of  emperics,  gaping 
at  objects  of  novelty,  and  too  frequently  endeavor- 
ing to  obtain  each  others  money  by  gambling. 

When  the  sun  is  oppressive,  the  crowd  retires, 
with  the  exception  of  the  hucksters,  who  intercept  his 
withering  beams  by  temporary  tilts.  The  erection  of 
tents  is  a liberty  not  sanctioned  by  law,  or  rather  con- 
trary to  the  oral  prohibitions  of  the  petty  officers,  who 
have  the  square  in  charge.  Consequently  when  men 
of  authority  make  their  appearance,  the  scene  sud- 
denly changes.  From  the  moment  of  alarm,  there 
is  the  most  hasty  dispatch,  until  every  thing  is  remo- 
ved that  militates  against  their  orders.  Their  exit 
7* 


78 


CHINA. 


appears  to  be  regarded  the  signal  of  relevation,  and 
all  things  speedily  revert  to  their  former  state.  Such 
a show  of  subjection,  with  real  contempt  lor  au- 
thority, when  it  opposes  individual  gain,  is  said 
to  be  a prominent  feature  of  the  nation. 

The  projecting  building  referred  to  as  the  only  one 
occupied  by  Chinamen,  in  the  row,  is  so  situated,  as  to 
throw  its  shade,  as  the  sun  declines,  directly  before 
the  American  hong.  This  is  the  place  of  general 
concourse,  from  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  until 
evening,  and  it  is  then,  that  the  crowd  being  most 
concentrated,  the  clamor  is  quite  deafening.  Neither 
is  the  darkness  of  night  always  attended  with  its  ap- 
propriate stillness,  for  though  the  rabble  of  the  day 
disperses,  there  is  another  company,  principally  the 
coolies  of  the  factories,  who,  with  a few  noisy  cooks, 
anxious  to  apprise  the  neighborhood  of  their  pre- 
sence, continue  their  conversations  and  engagements 
until  a late  hour. 

The  insatiable  curiosity  of  many,  who  appear 
daily  before  the  factories,  is  both  amusing  and  an- 
noying. Groups  of  strangers  frequently  visit  the 
square,  and  probably  having  formed  no  correct  idea 
of  the  style  of  the  buildings,  and  the  appearance  of 
foreigners,  gaze  upon  every  novel  object  with  a fixed- 
ness of  posture  and  vision,  approaching  to  statues. 
If  you  expose  yourself  in  the  verandah,  they  gene- 
rally stand  in  full  view  before  it,  and  if  you  walk  in 


CHINA. 


79 


front  of  the  buildings,  they  linger  as  near  your  track 
as  possible,  and  continue  to  stare  as  though  riveted  by 
a magic  spell.  In  general,  though  tumultuous,  there 
is  very  little  contention  among  this  concourse.  The 
least  appearance  of  an  unlawful  commotion  calls 
forth  a public  officer,  who  resides  for  the  purpose  in 
full  view,  and  is  exceedingly  efficient  in  quelling  a 
riot,  and  scattering  offenders.  When  occasion  re- 
quires, he  summons  to  his  aid  one  or  two  lictors,  who 
armed  with  scourges,  and  apparently  vested  with 
discretionary  power  in  their  use,  occasion  a precipi- 
tant retreat.  The  guilty  are  frequently  chased,  and 
when  caught,  dragged  along  to  the  hall  of  justice 
by  their  pendant  cues,  which  is  cruelly  drawn  over 
the  front  of  the  head,  and  made  to  press  the  face 
toward  the  ground. 

In  surveying  this  mass  of  accountable  beings, 
there  are  many  points  of  great  interest  to  the  eye  of 
Christian  compeission  and  benevolence.  Indepen- 
dent of  the  associations  which  are  common  to  all  the 
heathen,  there  are  facts  of  importance  peculiar  to 
this  daily  throng.  Great  numbers  of  them  can  read, 
and  are  attracted  by  every  publication  that  meets 
their  eyes.  It  is  customary  to  paste  up  advertise- 
ments in  the  most  public  places  of  the  square  and 
the  streets,  and  the  groups  generally  found  through 
the  day  gathered  around  them,  show  their  eagerness 
to  catch  at  every  piece  of  information.  Many  of 


80 


CHINA. 


these  hand-bills  set  forth  the  pretensions  of  quacks 
and  are  often  of  such  an  immoral  character,  as 
prove  that  God  has  indeed  “ given  the  people  up  to 
vile  affections,”  who  can  endure  them.  What  a 
place  fqr  the  operations  of  the  press,  sacred  to  the 
cause  of  the  Redeemer. 

Another  fact  of  interest  is,  that  this  daily  multitude 
consists  of  persons  from  different  parts  of  the  interior, 
as  well  as  the  iimnediate  vicinity.  If  business  or  plea- 
sure brings  them  to  the  city,  they  can  scarcely  possess 
the  curiosity  of  the  nation  if  they  return  without  a 
visit  to  the  thirteen  hongs,  as  they  term  the  foreign 
buildings. 

How  far  the  missionary  would  be  allowed  to  pro- 
ceed, in  his  intercourse  with  the  natives,  or  whether 
those  obstacles,  which  are  considered  insuperable  by 
some,  if  they  really  exist,  would  not  yield  to  a little 
courage  and  perseverance,  remains  to  be  tested.  One 
rule  of  action  among  the  Chinese  should  never  be 
forgotten  by  those  who  labor  for  their  best  interests : 
they  seldom,  if  ever  grant  a request  for  the  most 
trifling  thing,  when  applied  to,  and  very  seldom 
oppose  you,  or  persist  in  opposing  you,  if  you  evince, 
in  any  reasonable  attempt,  a little  determination  and  , 
fearlessness. 

The  necessity  of  having  the  Scriptures  translated, 
and  other  preparatory  works  of  indispensable  import- 
ance accomplished,  have  not  only  consumed  the  time 


CHINA. 


81 


of  the  senior  missionary,  but  imposed  upon  him  an 
obligation  to  leave  experiments  to  those  whose  pre- 
sence could  be  more  easily  dispensed  with — who  have 
not  the  first  toils  of  a mission  before  them. 

It  has  been  mentioned  that  the  Choo-keang,  or 
Pearl  river,  runs  in  front  of  the  factories,  and  forms 
the  southern  boundary  of  Canton  city.  In  passing  ' 
to  and  from  the  shipping,  I had  a favorable  opportu- 
nity for  viewing  the  numerous  boats,  which,  on  our 
arrival,  were  partially  obscured  by  the  shades  of  night. 
The  magic  appearance  of  the  first  evening  had  prin- 
cipally vanished.  Ignorant  of  the  locality  of  the  city, 
it  was  quite  evident  that  some  of  the  lights  on  shore 
had  been  mistaken  for  those  in  the  boats,  and  the  level 
site  of  the  city,  for  extensive  water  scenery.  Yet 
enough  remained  to  attract  and  distract  the  attention, 
and  keep  the  mind  in  a glow  of  excitement.  The 
boats  are  much  more  numerous  abreast  of  the  city 
and  opposite  the  villages  bordering  on  the  river,  than 
in  the  intervening  waters.  These  are,  for  the  most 
part,  the  residences  of  families ; and  as  the  owners  of 
many  of  them  are  employed  on  shore,  they  are  kept 
more  stationary  than  others.  This,  however,  is  not  so 
much  the  result  of  choice,  or  inability  on  the  part  of  the 
women  to  manage  their  boats,  as  it  is  the  want  of  an 
adequate  inducement  to  change  their  position.  Even 
children  of  both  sexes,  as  soon  as  they  are  capable  of 
assisting,  are  taught  to  labor  to  the  extent  of  their 


82 


CHINA. 


Strength ; so  that  the  absence  of  the  father  and  hus- 
band is  no  preventive  to  any  undertaking,  if  suffi- 
ciently profitable.  When  the  parties  are  dependent 
for  a livelihood,  upon  the  hire  of  their  boats,  the 
women  appear  to  labor  quite  as  diligently  as  the  men ; 
by  which  means  they  acquire  all  the  dexterity  and 
endurance,  and,  I may  add,  coarseness,  of  which  the 
sex,  or  even  our  nature,  is  susceptible.  It  is  not  un- 
common to  see  them,  tugging  at  the  oar,  with^an 
infant  tied  to  their  backs,  and  its  head,  if  feeble^  keep- 
ing time  to  the  motion  of  the  mother’s  body. 

Such  is  the  multitude  and  density  of  these  dwell- 
ings in  some  favorite  regions,  that  they  often  conceal 
a large  surface  of  the  element  on  which  they  rest,  and 
appear  jumbled  together  aluiosi  in  a solid  mass.  In 
other  places  they  are  arranged  with  contiguous  sides, 
and  extend  fi:om  each  shore,  so  as  to  leave  about  a 
third  of  the  river  clear.  Groups  of  them  are  often 
detached  from  the  land,  and  moored  in  regular  rows  ; 
affording  the  facilities  of  communication  among  them- 
selves, and  preventing  intercourse  with  the  shore. 
Beside  these  family  boats,  there  are  many  others  of 
much  larger  dimensions,  which  are  employed  in 
transferring  articles  of  commerce  between  different 
parts  of  the  empire,  and  Canton. 

Transient-vessels  generally  select  the  centre  of  the 
river  for  an  anchorage,  and  yielding  to  the  force  of  a 
powerful  current,  range  in  the  direction  of  the  stream. 


CHINA. 


83 


Besides  these  clusters  of  vessels,  there  are  numbers  of 
insulated  crafts,  of  different  sizes,  scattered  in  every 
direction,  and  equally  tending  to  obstruct  the  passage 
of  the  river.  In  fact,  you  are  under  the  necessity  of 
“ keeping  a sharp  look-out,”  and  of  steering,  in  places, 
the  most  crooked  course,  to  avoid  the  contact  of  sta- 
tionary and  moving  boats.  One  class  of  these  dwell- 
ings, and  it  comprises  a large  number,  is  composed 
of  the  sties  of  a degraded  portion  of  the  community, 
many  of  whom,  it  is  said,  are  early  sold,  by  their 
inhuman  parents,  to  perpetual  infamy  and  wretched- 
ness. These  are  distinguished  from  all  the  rest,  by  the 
superior  style  of  their  structure'and  embellishments. 

It  is  a singular  fact,  that  the  Chinese  look  upon 
those  who  dwell  in  boats  as  a distinct  race  from 
themselves.  They  consider  them  a low,  alien  people, 
and  refuse  to  intermarry  with  them.  Tradition  says, 
that  they  came  from  outside  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
The  grandfather  of  the  present  emperor  is  the  first 
who  naturalized  them.  Before  his  time  they  were 
not  permitted  to  land. 

Neither  is  the  whole  water  population  confined  to 
floating  residences.  Houses  erected  on  piles,  and 
superior  to  the  ordinary  influence  of  wind  and  tide, 
extend,  in  some  places,  a considerable  distance  from 
the  shore  opposite  to  Canton.  Between  the  villages, 
as  has  been  stated,  the  boats  are  less  numerous  ; but, 
as  might  be  supposed,  there  are  numbers  constantly 


84 


CHINA, 


passing,  besides  many  engaged  in  fishing,  or  whatever 
employment  may  offer  along  the  shore.  Their  vessels 
of  war  indicate  an  amicable  disposition,  a friendly 
neighborhood,  or  a great  deficiency  of  skill  in  naval 
architecture.  The  strength  of  their  materials  would 
give  them  a defensive  advantage ; but  they  are  built 
on  an  antiquated  and  clumsy  model,  and  neither  cal- 
culated to  contend  with  a tumultuous  sea,  nor  to  con- 
front a modern  foe. 

In  connection  with  these,  a number  of  galliots  are 
employed  l)y  government  to  defend  the  trade,  and  pre- 
vent the  depredations  of  the  ladrones,  or  pirates,  by 
whom  the  rivers  and  coasts -were  formerly  much 
infested.  These  are  well  built,  and  generally  manned 
by  as  many  rowers  as  can  occupy  the  seats  and  em- 
ploy the  oars  with  advantage.  But  alas  ! the  super- 
stition, or  old  custom,  has  fiirnislied  them  all  with 
eyes  ;*  they  appear  capable  of  seeing  but  one  object, 
and  in  the  pursuit  of  that  they  stop  not  to  inquire 
whether  friend  or  foe  suffers.  All  these  unprincipled 
officers  of  government  can  be  bribed,  and  that  to  the 
connivance  and  even  prosecution  of  a traffic,  (the 
opium  trade,)  which  is  not  only  interdicted  by  the 
laws  of  the  country,  but  the  destruction  of  its  vital 
interests. 

Among  these  fluviatic  tribes,  every  convenience  of 

* Every  China  boat,  of  any  size,  has  two  large  eyes  painted — 
one  on  each  side  of  the  bow. 


CHINA. 


85 


land  as  well  as  water,  is  enjoyed.  Eatables,  sacrifi- 
cial materials,  and  other  articles  of  equal  demand, 
are  furnished  to  their  hand  ; while  barbers,  play- 
actors, and  all  who  can  reap  advantage  by  adminis- 
tering to  their  comfort  or  amusement,  pursue  the 
same  system  of  mutual  accommodation. 

The  appearance  of  the  river  is  by  no  means  an 
incorrect  barometer,  indicating  especially  those  great 
changes  in  the  atmosphere,  which  are  subjects  of  ap- 
prehension to  these  experienced  weather  spies.  The 
difference  between  the  water  scenery  in  a fair  day, 
and  a storm,  or  the  prospect  of  a gale,- is  very  striking. 
One  would  scarcely  believe,  that  such  numbers  as 
appears  o thickly  congregated  in  difierent  parts  of  the 
river,  in  good  weather,  could  crowd  in  the  compass 
which  confines  them,  when  danger  is  feared.  In 
times  of  apprehension  the  river  appears  as  clear  as 
those  of  other  countries  ; its  width  is,  of  course,  con- 
siderably contracted  by  the  boats,  closely  ranged 
along  the  shores. 

Of  all  the  craft  of  every  description,  there  are  very 
few,  destitute  of  shrines,  images,  or  some  inscriptions, 
and  the  necessary  apparatus  for  their  daily  offerings. 
Every  morning  and  evening,  and  at  whatever  seasons, 
evils  are  deprecated,  or  special  blessings  craved,  they 
fly  to  their  altar,  apply  a piece  of  consecrated  paper 
oiled  for  the  purpose,  to  the  burning  lamp,  or  incense 

8 


86 


CHINA. 


Stick,  and  when  it  blazes  throw  it  into  the  water,  and 
bow  to  the  imaginary  spirit  of  the  deep. 

By  a recent  statement,  the  number  of  family  boats 
subject  to  an  annual  tax,  in  the  vicinity  of  Canton 
zdone,  is  computed  at  fifty  thousand ; while  the  larger 
vessels  employed  between  Canton  and  Whampoa,  are 
estimated  at  eighteen  thousand  more.  Neither  does 
this  give  us  a full  'vdew  of  the  vast  number  of  perish- 
ing idolaters,  who  inhabit  the  waters  of  this  region. 
The  amount  is  greatly  swelled  by  the  men  employed 
in  the  large  canal  boats,  which  ply  between  this  port 
and  different  parts  of  the  interior,  and  by  the  crews 
of  the  junks  employed  in  the  coasting  trade,  numbers 
of  which  are  constantly  lying  in  harbor.  A commu- 
nication is  kept  up  between  every  part  of  the  empire 
and  Canton,  and  if  the  latter  maintain  its  commercial 
advantages,  and  receive  from  Christians  the  attention 
it  merits,  it  must  become  one  of  the  most  important 
mission  stations  in  the  world. 

One  of  the  principal  modes  of  recreation  among 
foreigners,  is  rowing  and  sailing  in  small  boats,  which 
they  keep  for  the  purpose.  In  these  excursions,  you 
are  often  obliged  to  pass  througli  fleets  of  native  craft, 
and  thus  you  come  in  contact  with  crowds  of  persons 
whom  you  might  teach  and  fimiish  with  books.  It 
is  true,  they  evince  a shyness  toward  foreigners,  which 
may  be  partially  inspired  by  the  officers  of  govern- 


CHINA. 


87 


ment ; but  it  is  a question  whether  this  might  not  be 
overcome  by  a little  perseverance,  and  whether,  when 
conversing  with  them  became  a common  practice,  it 
would  not  cease  to  awaken  suspicion. 

July  6th. — Opposite  to  Canton,  is  the  island  of  Hai- 
nam,  so  called  from  its  situation  on  “ the  south  side  of 
the  river.”  Here  we  Imve  been  in  the  habit  of  taking  an 
occasional  ramble — it  being  the  only  place  in  the  im- 
mediate neighborhood,  where  country  scenery  can  be 
enjoyed.  After  passing  through  a number  of  narrow, 
filthy  lanes,  you  emerge  into  quite  an  extensive  cam- 
paign, and  have  the  liberty  of  wandering  as  far  as 
health  or  inclination  dictates. 

The  land  is  principally  low — partially  inundated 
by  the  tide  waters,  and  well  adapted  and  devoted  to 
the  cultivation  of  rice.  Where  its  surface  is  not  too 
level  and  saturated,  it  is  arranged  in  terraces,  and  plant- 
ed with  a great  variety  of  vegetables,  ginger,  a spe- 
cies of  indigo,  &.c.  The  fields  are  divided  by  ridges, 
which  answer  for  walks,  and  are  generally  flagged 
with  a coarse  granite.  With  the  exception  of  a very 
few  scattering  houses,  the  farmers  reside  in  villages, 
surrounded  with  walls.  These  villages  we  have  often 
approached,  though  at  times  it  has  been  necessary  to 
avoid  them,  to  keep  without  the  reach  of  the  stones 
and  dirt,  with  which  the  boys  occasionally  annoyed 
us.  Almost  every  piece  of  rising  ground  is  consecra- 
ted to  the  burial  of  the  dead,  and  the  vast  multitudes 


88 


CHINA. 


crowded  together  in  these  spacious  cemeteries,  pro- 
claim the  dominion  of  the  king  of  terrors.  We  were 
interested  in  the  examination  of  the  bridges  thrown 
across  the  natural  and  artificial  streams ; the  strength 
of  their  materials,  and  firmness  of  their  structure, 
appeared  as  though  they  had  survived,  and  would  long 
defy  the  waste  of  ages.  Some  of  the  slabs  af  granite 
were  twenty-four  feet  in  length. 

But  the  greatest  object  of  curiosity  is  the  large 
Pagan  establishment,  belonging  to  the  sect  of  Budh. 
It  is  situated  near  the  margin  of  the  river,  is  inclosed 
by  a wall,  and  includes  within  its  limits  an  area  of  a 
number  of  acres.  As  you  enter  the  gate,  the  eye  is 
arrested  by  a few  majestic  banjans,  which  appear  to 
have  withstood  the  storms  of  centuries,  and  found  a 
congenial  soil  within  these  sacred  precincts.  Passing 
up  a central  walk,  the  avenue  leads  through  two 
buildings,  a short  distance  apart,  in  each  of  which  are 
seated  collossal  figures,  intended  as  warders  to  the 
temple.  The  countenance  and  attitude  of  some  of 
them  are  intended  to  express  the  deepest  rage.  A 
short  distance  farther  are  two  buildings  directly  oppo- 
site to  each  other,  to  which  flagged  walks  branch  off 
from  the  main  avenue.  These  contain  a number  of 
famous  military  demigods ; one  of  which  has  been 
adopted  as  the  patron  deity  of  the  reigning  family. 
After  this  you  come  successively  to  three  large  halls, 
interrupting  the  central  walk,  and  containing  a variety 


CHINA. 


89 


of  idols,  of  different  dimensions  and  appearances.  In 
one  of  them  are  seated  three  huge  figures,  designed  to 
illustrate  the  trine  manifestations  of  Budh,  the  past, 
present,  and  future.  Eighteen  images,  the  disciples  of 
Budh,  are  arranged  on  each  side  of  the  hall.  “ The 
Manchou  Tartar  family,  on  the  throne  of  China,” 
say  its  monarchs,  “ are  these  disciples  of  Budh,  ap- 
pearing again  on  the  stage  of  the  world,  according  to 
their  ideas  of  the  Metemphsycosis.” 

Each  of  these  principal  halls  contains  a number  of 
ornamental  pillars.  Their  roofs  are  generally  made 
to  project,  with  the  low  and  gonvex  sweep  of  primi- 
tive architecture,  and  decorated  with  grotesque  mon- 
sters intended  to  represent  dragons  and  lions. 

Beside  these  principal  buildings,  there  are  others 
situated  on  each  side  of  the  inclosed  space,  employed 
as  cells  for  lodging,  a dining  apartment,  idol  halls,  a 
printing  room,  pens  for  animals,  and  whatever  is  ne- 
cessary for  the  support  of  their  worship  and  them- 
selves. Their  library  contains  books  of  many  sizes 
and  forms,  chiefly  prayers  .untranslated  from  the  Pali, 
or  sacred  language. 

No  free-will  offering  to  their  gods  is  considered 
more  acceptable  than  living  domestic  animals,  libe- 
rally supported  until  death.  These  are  most  carefully 
preserved  and  feasted,  until  choked  with  fat  or  worn 
out  with  age.  The  eyes  of  some  of  the  hogs  are  en- 

8* 


90 


CHINA. 


tirely  concealed ; a deep  crevice  designates  the  place 
of  their  interment. 

The  whole  number  of  priests  belonging  to  the 
establishment,  is  probably  between  one  and  two  hun- 
dred. There  is  evidently  a great  distinction  in  rank 
among  them.  Some  are  respectable  in  appearance, 
and  much  respected — others  are  clothed  in  rags,  and 
beg  along  the  streets  of  Canton. 

We  saw  about  seventy  engaged  in  their  daily  de- 
votions, in  one  of  the  largest  halls.  The  youngest  was 
perhaps  twelve  years  of  age,  and  the  eldest  passing 
threescore  and  ten. . They  were  all  dressed  in 
tireir  robes,  and  spent  about  an  hour  in  droning  their 
cabalistic  words,  aided  and  timed  by  the  beat  of 
metal  vessels.  During  the  hour,  they  passed  through 
the  different  attitudes  of  kneeling,  knocking  their 
heads,  standing,  bowing,  and  walking  in  single  file 
around  the  hall. 

The  whole  spectacle  was  calculated  to  impress  a 
feeling  heart  with  compassion.  It  was  deeply  affect- 
ing to  see  so  many,  apparently  in  the  last  stage  of  this 
probationary  existence,  trusting  to  a delusion  which 
had  impressed  its  own  unmeaningness  upon  their 
countenances,  while  the  younger  ones  were  early  im- 
bibing the  same  stupifying  lesson. 

In  all  our  rambles  through  the  country  and  villages 
of  Hainam,  there  has  been  nothing  to  discourage  the 


CHINA. 


91 


hope,  that  wath  the  ability  of  communicating  with  the 
natives,  we  might  tax  our  strength  to  the  utmost  in 
teacliing  them  the  “ glad  tidings  of  great  joy.” 

For  some  days  after  our  arrival,  we  were  visited 
by  crowds  of  merchants  and  mechanics,  whose  object 
none  could  mistake.  Of  course,  their  principal  busi- 
ness is  with  our  mercantile  fellow  passengers.  They 
generally  understand  a little  English  ; but  their  voca- 
bulary is  so  limited  and  corrupt,  that  it  is  at  first  im- 
possible to  comprehend  their  meaning.  With  the 
exception  of  two  or  three,  who  have  spent  some  time 
in  England  or  America,  there  is  probably  not  one  of 
their  number,  to  whom,  even  simple  ideas  expressed 
in  correct  diction,  would  be  intelligible.  There  must 
be  a system  of  mutual  accommodation,  or  nothing 
can  l)e  done  with  them. 

Some  of  the  most  familiar  vocables  in  this  strange 
compound,  belong  neither  to  correct  Chinese,  English, 
nor  Portuguese,  but  are  a corruption  of  each,  with 
an  admixture  of  a few  other  words,  said,  by  philolo- 
a^ists,  to  be  traceable  to  no  living  nor  dead  language. 
Many  of  our  terms  require  sounds  to  which  their  or- 
gans of  speech  have  never  been  trained,  and  conse- 
quently, when  uttered  by  them,  they  appear  so  unlike 
themselves  as  not  to  be  recognized  by  their  old  and 
best  acquaintance. 

Their  own  idiom  is  retained  in  some  cases,  and  a 
literal  translation  of  words  attempted,  which,  from  the 


92 


CHINA. 


great  diiference  of  structure  and  figurative  allusion  in 
the  two  languages,  would  frequently  convey  to  the 
mind  of  the  novitiate  any  idea  as  readily  as  the  one 
intended. 

The  appearance  of  these  men,  and  in  fact  of  the 
Chinese  in  general,  both  male  and  female,  differ,  in 
some  respects,  from  my  preconceived  notions.  Those 
peculiarities  which  are  the  most  striking  to  the  stranger, 
are  the  great  variety  of  complexion,  the  general  flat- 
ness of  face  and  uniformity  of  features,  and  especially 
the  strange  formation  of  the  eye,  with  not  only  its 
internal  angle  curved,  as  noticed  by  writers,  but  with 
the  lid  in  many  cases  so  small,  as  to  appear  unadapt- 
ed to  its  natural  use.  This  last  peculiarity  is  most 
remarkable  among  children.  The  lid  appears  unna- 
turally distended  when  the  eye  is  open  ; • at  the  same 
time  it  covers  so  much  of  the  ball  of  the  eye,  as  to 
produce  the  impression  that  the  latter  is  uncomforta- 
bly confined.  With  the  exception  of  the  occiput,  the 
heads  of  the  men  are  shaved ; while  in  that  region,  if 
its  luxuriance  Avill  admit,  it  is  permitted  to  grow  until 
it  comes  in  contact  with  their  heels.  In  this  province 
it  is  worn  in  a pendant  plait — the  cords  with  which 
it  is  woven  frequently  supplying  the  deficiency  of  its 
length.  It  is  quite  a comment  on  fashion — old  cus- 
tom,” as  the  Chinese  term  it — to  associate  with  the 
popularity  and  prevalence  of  the  one  here  described, 
the  recency  of  its  date,  and  the  reproach  of  its  origin. 


CHINA. 


93 


Upon  the  T%tar  conquest,  not  two  centuries  ago  the 
Chinese  were  compelled  to  adopt  this  style  pf  wearing 
their  hair  as  a mark  of  subjugation.  Many  considered 
it  such  a disgrace,  that  they  preferred  losing  their 
heads  to  their  hair.  Now  it  has  become  an  orna- 
ment and  a mark  of  proud  distinction. 

The  girls  wear  the  long  plait,  according  to  the 
fashion  of  the  men,  but  do  not  shave  the  other  parts 
of  the  head.  After  marriage,  the  hair  is  braided  upon 
the  head,  and  decked  with  a profusion  of  flowers  and 
jewels,  answering  to  the  rank  or  means  of  the  posses- 
sor. The  ordinary  style  of  dress  differs  but  little  in 
both  sexes.  It  consists  of  a loose  pantaloons,  and  an 
over-garment,  or  robe,  with  long  dangling  sleeves,  and 
which  varies  in  length  from  the  knee  to  the  ground. 
Their  girdles,  like  those  of  the  Jews,  frequently  answer 
tlie  purpose  of  purses.  The  stocking  has  no  reference 
to  the  shape  or  size  of  the  limb,  and  the  shoe  has  a 
thick,  clumsy  sole,  turning  up  in  front,  and  destitute 
of  elasticity  to  aid  the  step. 


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. i*'.  . . -. 

V - VK:  - •♦  > "'• 

^' • *%r ' 


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-■  •-»««•»■,•,*■' ^^  X2‘ 


r»> 


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A 


I 


"mr-. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


CHINA  CONTINUED. 

With  these  general  remarks  upon  the  country 
and  its  inhabitants,  we  pass  on  to  a few  of  those  inci- 
dents which  occurred  at  the  time,  and  which  will 
assist  in  forming  an  idea  of  a residence  in  China. 
Two  facts,  however,  must  be  borne  in  mind  : the  one 
is,  that  the  writer  did  not  immediately  enter  upon  the 
duties  of  a foreign  missionary,  but  devoted  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  his  time  to  those  who  spoke  his  own 
language  at  Canton  and  Whampoa.  His  first  engage- 
ment was  with  the  American  Seamen’s  Society.  The 
second  consideration  is,  that  during  his  residence  at 
Canton  he  knew  nothing  of  the  language,  and  was 
consequently  unable  to  avail  himself  of  those  oppor- 
tunities of  usefulness,  which  were  almost  daily  pre- 
sented. This  accounts  for  the  dearth  of  that  kind  of 
intelligence  which  is  found  in  most  other  missionary 
journals. 

March  1st. — Yesterday,  (Sabbath,)  pursuant  to  pub- 
lic notice,  which  is  generally  hung  up  on  a small  board 
before  the  factory,  divine  service  was  held  in  the  large 


96 


CHINA. 


room  of  the  building  in  which  we  reside.  This  is  the 
place  where  Dr.  Morrison  has  been  in  the  habit  of 
preaching  for  the  last  two  seasons,  A chapel  attached 
to  the  factory  occupied  by  the  English  company,  is 
also  open  every  Sabbath  morning  for  the  worship  of 
God.  Besides  these,  Dr.  M.  has  a Chinese  service 
every  Lord’s  day  in  his  own  room. 

Among  the  number  of  our  attendants  was  Ah-see, 
a Chinese,  known  to  many  in  America,  who  spent 
several  years  in  the  United  States — was  partially  edu- 
cated at  Cornwall,  and  publicly  professed  the  Christian 
faith  in  New-York.  How  far  he  has  maintained  his 
Christian  integrity  I am  unable  to  say.  He  is  e\’i- 
dently  familiar  with  “ the  speech  of  Canaan but 
there  is  reason  to  fear  that  his  long  separation  from  all 
religious  society  and  external  restraints  have  proved 
unfavorable  to  the  progress  of  his  personal  piety.  One 
argument  against  him  is  the  absence  he  keeps  from 
those  who  might  be  of  the  most  service  to  him,  and 
the  apparent  indifference  with  which  he  regards  tlie 
condition  of  his  countrymen.  Still,  there  is  a danger 
of  judging  uncharitably,  as  very  little  is  known  of  his 
private  life. 

Met  this  evening  at  the  room  of  Dr.  M.  for  the 
monthly  concert  of  prayer  in  behalf  of  missions. 
Though  none  were  present  but  ourselves,  it  was  gra- 
tifying to  know  that  the  voice  of  prayer,  if  begun  by 
us,  would  not  die,  at  least  in  the  ears  of  the  Lord, 


0' 


CHINA. 


97 


until  thousands  in  other  lands  swelled  the  petition, 
and  rolled  it  almost  “ the  world  around.”  One  fact 
encourasfed  us  in  regard  to  the  conversion  of  China. 
When  the  Gospel  gains  access,  according  to  human 
calculation,  it  must  have  a speedy  and  wide  circula- 
tion. There  is  no  moral  power  to  confront  it.  The 
religion  of  the  empire  is  baseless.  Nothing  appears 
to  support  it  but  one  vast  scaffold  of  ignorance,  wdiich, 
it  is  believed,  can  withstand  no  shock,  and  when  it 
yields,  must  bury  the  whole  fabric  in  one  common 
grave. 

March  15th. — On  Saturday,  Capt.  Lavender  came 
to  town  with  the  intention  of  taking  me  with  him  in 
the  afternoon  to  Whampoa ; but  a long  continued 
shower  prevented.  Arose  early  on  Sabbath  morning, 
and  reached  the  ship  before  breakfast.  The  Bethel 
flas:  soon  waved  in  the  breeze,  and  the  silent  invita- 
tion  was  answered  by  an  unexpectedly  large  number 
from  the  two  American  vessels  in  port. 

This  morning  was  spent  in  visiting  two  of  the 
three  islands  contiguous  to  the  shipping,  and  accessi- 
ble to  foreigners.  They  are  known  by  the  names  of 
Whampoa,  French,  and  Dane’s  Islands.  Here,  stran- 
gers enjoy  the  liberty  of  exercising  their  limbs,  if  they 
confine  themselves  to  certain  limits,  and  of  burying 
theirdead,  if  they  comply  with  the  exorbitant  demands 
of  the  avaricious  and  calculating  proprietors.  If  a 
sufficient  number  are  associated,  they  may  extend 

9 


o 


98 


CHINA. 


their  ramble  almost  at  pleasure ; but  the  probability 
of  defeat,  or  fear  of  personal  injury,  is  the  only  certain 
security  from  an  attack  by  the  natives.  The  solitary 
venturer  is  not  always  molested ; but  it  is  always  wise 
to  decline  the  experiment,  since  the  younger  part  of 
the  community  are  allowed  by  their  parents  to  annoy, 
if  not  injure  him,  with  stones  and  mud,  and  “ cliil- 
dren  of  a larger  growth”  are  not  backward  to  take 
from  his  pockets,  or  even  his  person,  whatever  may 
suit  their  avarice  or  fancy.  A short  time  smce,  an 
imprudent  stranger  exposed  himself  to  their  cupidity, 
and  was  robbed  of  his  watch. 

It  should  not  be  concealed  that  the  conduct  of 
sailors,  permitted  to  enjoy  “ liberty”  on  these  islands, 
has  been  highly  offensive  to  the  Chinese.  Maddened 
by  the  fumes  of  a vile  liquor,  distilled  from  rice,  and, 
it  is  said,  mixed  with  poisonous  ingredients,  the  crews 
of  some  of  the  ships  have  even  gone  to  the  extreme 
of  sacrilege,  assailing  their  very  temples,  and  abusing 
their.gods. 

French  island  is  a vast  cemetery,  where  multi- 
tudes of  natives  and  foreigners,  await  the  morning 
of  the  resurrection.  Here  are  three  groups  of  fo- 
reigners, occupying  different  places,  though  but  a 
short  distaince  apant.  The  two  most  contiguous  to 
the  present  anchorage  are  of  a recent  date,  and  con- 
sist principally  of  Americans  and  English.  The 
tombs  of  the  other  are  inscribed  in  different  languages, 


CHINA. 


99 


and  refer  you,  with  a few  exceptions,  to  the  past 
century.  The  majority  were  cut  olf  in  the  morning 
of  life — a solemn  admonition  to  thoughtless  youth. 
It  is  unaccountable  that  those  who  fell  from  the  ships 
however  expert  they  may  be  at  swimming,  and  even 
accustomed  to  exercise  ia  this  very  river,  seldom 
arise  to  the  surface,  or  are  rescued  from  the  grasp 
of  death.  Some  attribute  if  to  an  under  current  of 
resistless  power ; but  those  who  are  in  the  habit  of  di- 
ving for  pleasure,  experience  no  difficulty  in  arising 
to  the  surface.  Many  a mound  is  pointed  out,  where 
sleep  the  bodies  of  those  who  were  healthy,  gay,  un- 
apprehensive of  their  change,  the  very  moment  be- 
fore it  occurred.  In  the  midst  of  cheerful  conversa- 
tion, there  was  an  abrupt  pause — a sudden  plunge — 
an  awful  eternity. 

Those  foreigners  who  die  at  Canton,  are  general- 
ly interred  on  this  island,  and  from  appearances,  the 
“King of  Terrors,”  has  been  peculiarly  triumphant 
during  the  last  year.  One  of  our  party,  who  had 
just  returned  from  a trading  voyage,  read  the  epitaph 
of  two  of  his  acquaintance,  whom  he  bade  adieu 
one  year  ago  in  perfect  health.  The  first  intimations 
of  their  death  he  received  with  astonishment,  when 
within  a short  distance  of  their  mouldering  remains. 

Beside  the  number  of  strangers,  who  have  made 
their  grave  in  this  heathen  land,  many  of  the  hills 
are  repositories  of  deceased  natives.  The  sepul- 


100 


CHINA. 


chres  of  the  rich,  and  great  are  generally  construct- 
ed of  hewn  stone,  in  a semi-circular,  or  horse-shoe 
form,  answering  in  appearance  to  the  previous  rank 
or  circumstances  of  the  “lowly  tenant.”  Some  of 
them  are  quite  ornamental  to  the  hill,  on  which  they 
are  placed. 

According  to  the  superstitious  custom  of  the 
Chinese,  they  have  just  Ueen  paying  their  annual  visit 
to  their  departed>elatives,  repairing  the  tombs,  deco- 
rating the  surrounding  spot  with  colored  papers 
offering  to  their  manes,  and  attending  to  numerous 
rites,  which  they  conceive  becoming  in  the  living^ 
and  not  simply  gratifying  to  the  dead,  but  quite  neces- 
sary" to  their  comfort.  The  more  wealthy,  on  these 
occasions,  erect  booths  on  the  hills,  assemble  their 
kindred,  prepare  a sumptuous  entertainment,  provide 
candles,  incense,  gold  and  silver  paper,  suits  of  cloths, 
and  other  articles,  which  passing  by  the  operation  of 
fire  into  smoke,  they  imagine  pass  into  the  world  of 
spirits.  Then  they  kneel,  sacrifice  and  pray  to  this 
eflect,  “ We  a multitude  of  children,  grand-children, 
and  other  descendants,  now,  on  such  a day,  have 
come  hither,  to  worship  at  their  ancestors’  tumuli ; 
we  pray  that  by  the  protection  of  our  ancestors,  we 
may  "become  prosperous,  and  that  their  descendants 
may  be  constantly  supported.”  At  this  season,  the 
bones  are  removed,  if  the  body  is  supposed  to  occupy 
4 an  inauspicious  place.  Even  those  who  profess  to 


CHINA. 


101 


believe  the  doctrine  of  spiritual  annihilation,  or  me- 
teniphsycosis,  are  among  the  most  scrupulous,  in 
their  offerings  to  the  dead. 

It  appears  to  be  a very  prevalent  sentiment,  that 
the  spirit,  or  one  of  them,  as  they  speak  of  a plu- 
rality, continues  in  the  vicinity  of  the  dispossessed 
body,  that  the  sympathy  between  them  remains 
almost  as  perfect  as  before  their  separation,  and  that 
the.  comfort  of  the  living  agent  is  materially  affected 
by  the  regard  shown  it,  or  its  decaying  companion, 
by  earthly  relatives.  The  idea  of  having  none  to  sa- 
crifice at  their  tombs,  and  supply  them  with  such 
things  as  they  are  supposed  to  need  in  the  invisible 
state,  is  abhorrent  to  a Chinaman. 

One  great  inducement  for  keeping  up  these  cere- 
monies with  so  much  apparent  zest,  is  the  scene  of 
feasting  and  revelry  which  ensues.  K the  senti- 
ment applies  with  peculiar  emphasis  to  any  people 
in  the  world,  “ whose  God  is  their  belly,”  it  does  to 
the  Chinese.  It  is  the  exhaustless  theme  of  their 
conversation.  “Have  you  eaten,”  is  one  of  the  most 
common  and  polite  salutations  among  them,  and  the 
reputation  of  a good  liver  appears  to  excite  both  the 
envy  and  respect  of  their  more  restricted  countrymen. 

On  the  island  of  'Whampoa  we  visited  a sugar 
estabhshment.  The  simplicity  and  cheapness  of  the 
works  were  highly  characteristic  of  Chinese  taste  and 

9*  . 


102 


CHINA. 


policy.  The  mill  which  expresses  the  liquor  from 
the  cane  was  composed  of  three  vertical  cyhnders, 
made  of  a coarse  granite,  and  with  wooden  cogs. 
The  coppers^  as  boilers  are  termed  in  other  sugar 
growing  countries  of  less  primitive  predilections,  were 
made  of  cast  iron,  which  they  have  the  art  of  redu- 
cing almost  to  the  texture  of  common  paper,  and  of 
welding,  when  cracked  or  broken,  with  entire  facility 
and  firmness.  These  were  arranged  triangularly,  and 
with  little  apparent  regard  to  those  principles  of  gra- 
nulation, which  are  elsewhere  adopted.  That  nothing 
might  reduce  the  quantum  of  manual  labor,  where 
hands  and  mouths  are  so  numerous,  and  wages  so 
low,  the  mill  was  placed  below  the  level  of  the  boilers, 
and  the  liquor  carried  in  tubs,  from  the  one  to  the 
other.  As  it  attained  its  consistence  in  each  of  these 
vessels,  instead  of  being  passed  through  a strainer 
into  the  next,  it  was  transferred  by  hand  to  another 
part  of  the  building,  whence,  after  the  process  of  fil- 
tration, it  was  returned  to  its  appropriate  caldron. 

The  Chinamen  were  very  civil  and  obliging. 
They  gathered  around,  invited  us  to  gratify  our  curi- 
osity and  palates,  and  presuming  on  equal  liberties, 
amused  themselves  in  examining  our  persons  and 
dress.  Every  article  of  apparel  was  scrutinized,  and 
when  the  eye  was  not -sufficiently  discriminating,  the 
sense  of  feeling  was  applied.  Here  again  we  have 


CHINA. 


103 


had  repeated  opportunities  of  intercourse  with  the 
natives,  and  had  we  known  the  language,  might  have 
turned  it  to  the  best  account. 

March  20th. — Our  attention  has  been  frequently 
arrested  by  processions  passing  through  the  streets. 
Sometimes  they  are  the  retinue  of  men  of  distinction, 
whose  approach  is  announced  by  a herald  beating  a 
gong  in  a peculiar  manner,  and  who  move  about  Avith 
all  the  display  of  badges,  servants,  and  equestrian  at- 
tendants, which  their  civil  or  literary  rank  will  admit. 
The  sumptuary  laws  of  the  empire  forbid  that  parade 
of  mere  wealth,  which  is  common  in  other  countries, 
although  the  liberty  of  purchasing  nominal  titles  and 
immunities  gives  nearly  as  much  importance  to 
wealth,  as  though  such  a statute  was  not  in  existence. 
One  thing,  however,  detracts  from  that  conscious  se- 
curity in  his  possessions,  which  the  man  of  property 
enjoys  under  the  laws  of  Christian  lands.  There  are 
offices  above  the  nominal  rank,  to  which  wealth  can 
raise  its  possessor,  and  these  offices  are  frequently 
filled  by  those,  who,  with  the  love  of  money  and  con- 
tempt of  justice,  so  common  in  China,  can  generally 
manage  to  stock  their  own  coffers,  at  the  expense  of 
their  unprotected  neighbors.  Occasions  can  be  seized 
upon,  where  they  exist,  or  feigned,  where  they  have 
no  existence,  by  the  skillful  management  of  which, 
these  officers  of  injustice  can  gain  the  most  avari- 
cious and  nefarious  purposes. 


104. 


CHINA.- 


But  to  return  from  this  digression. — The  proces- 
sions most  worthy,  of  remark,  are  either  designed 
for  religious,  hymenial,  or  ftmeral  occasions.  Were 
it  not  for  a few  designating  objects  in  one  part  of  the 
train,  it  would  be  impossible  for  a stranger  to  deter- 
mine, whether  it  was  designed  to  honor  their  gods, 
feast  the  living,  or  gratify  the  dead.  The  appearance 
of  the  attendant,  the  style  of  the  music,  the  objects 
of  ornament,  and  articles  of  feasting,  are  generally 
the  same. 

Some  of  their  burials  exhibit  a great  show  of 
mourning,  but  as  this  is  known  to  be  the  custom  in 
China,  and  to  be  connected  with  other  established 
usages,  such  as  preserving  the  body  of  the  deceased, 
until  the  ordinary  fountain  of  grief  is  stanched,  and 
calling  to  their  assistance  “such  as  are  skillful  of 
lamentation,”  it  fails  to  excite  the  sympathy  of  genu- 
ine sorrow.  The  greatest  ceremony  is  made  at  the 
funeral  of  the  parent,  when  the  nearest  male  relative 
walks  immediately  behind  the  body,  and  is  obliged  to 
be  supported  in  the  phrenzy  of  his  professed  grief. 
The  death  of  a wife  is  considered  a matter  of  much 
less  importance.  The  husband,  on  that  occasion, 
walks  in  an  erect  posture,  and  with  an  air  of  compara- 
tive indifference. 

The  mourning'  habit  is  something  of  a light  brown, 
with  a napkin  of  the  same  color,  tied  around  the  head. 
Sackcloth  is  often  worn ; the  mourner,  if  not  too  poor, 


chipJa. 


105 


keeps  himself  in  deep  retirement  a hundred  days — the 
beard  and  hair  are  allowed  to  gfow,  and  other  acts  of 
cleanliness  and  comfort  are  dispensed  with,  all  of 
which  are  designed  to  show  the  absorption  of  his 
grief,  and  consequently  his  estimate  of  the  loss  he  has 
sustained.  Among  the  Chinese,  the  death  of  a father 
or  mother  disqualifies  a son  for  office  three  years ; 
the  Tartars  mourn  a hundred  days. 

The  bridal  palanquin  and  paraphranalia,  desig- 
nate the  marriage  procession.  The  former  is  exceed- 
ingly  gaudy,  and  I believe  employed  only  on  this 
occasion  ; the  latter  is  said  to  be  the  only  dowry  of 
the  females.  It  consists  of  furniture,  apparel,  wines, 
eatables,  and  at  times,  boxes  of  money.  Of  course, 
the  profusion  and  splendor  vary,  according  to  the 
capacity  of  the  father’s  purse  and  heart.  The  palan- 
quin is  generally  attended  by  a few  females,  the 
“ handmaids”  of  the  inclosed ; but  so  close  is  it  shut 
on  every  side,  that  you  cannot  by  any  management, 
catch  a glimpse  of  the  contents.  The  same  ignorance 
is  the  misery  of  the  bridegroom,  when  he  beholds  the 
vehicle  approaching,  and  reflects  that  it  contains  the 
unknown  companion  of  his  future  life. 

To-day,  the  largest  procession  I have  yet  seen 
passed.  Its  object  was  religious,  in  commemoration 
of  the  birth-day  of  one  of  their  gods — probably  a 
deified  hero.  To  describe  it,  would  be  difficult ; to 
imagine  it  the  product  of  a rational  mind,  for  any 


106 


CHINA. 


rational  purpose,  still  more  so  ; but  to  believe  it  the 
effort  of  an  immortal  spirit,  to  secure  the  favor  of  one 
who  has  the  disposal  of  its  eternal  happiness,  almost 
impossible. 

Among  the  objects  which  principally  attracted 
attention,  were  small  temples  fantastically  decorated 
and  furnished  with  gilded  images — pageants  resem- 
bling open  palanquins,  and  filled  with  roast  pigs,  or- 
namented fruits,  cakes  and  flowers — boys  and  girls 
gaudily  arrayed  on  horseback,  the  first  children  of 
wealthy  parents,  who  represent  official  attendants 
upon  the  gods,  the  others  holding  probably  the  sa- 
cred vessels  of  their  altars,  and  acting  as  priestesses — 
groups  of  lads  on  foot  occupying  different  places  in 
the  train,  and  each  company  wearing  a distinct  uni- 
form ; bands  of  musicians,  both  aged  and  young, 
with  gongs,  drums,  tamborines,  cymbals,  stringed 
and  wind  instruments ; besides  a large  number  of  coo- 
lies, in  almost  every  color  and  style  of  dress,  each 
furnished  with  a religious  tablet,  or  object  of  orna- 
ment : the  “ tout  ensemble” — than  any  thing  I ever 
saw,  which  would  bear  a comparison  with  it — was 
less  unlike  the  display,  on  a day  of  general  militia 
muster,  in  some  of  the  populous  towns  at  home, 
when  the  different  companies,  arrayed  in  their  pecu- 
liar uniform,  down  to  the  immartial  ragamufiins,  as 
multiform  in  their  dress,  as  their  arms,  join  in  one 
general  parade,  and  lend  all  that  is  imposing,  at 


CHINAk 


1D7 


least  in  variety,  to  the  long-drawn  and  ludicrous 
spectacle.  The  resemblance  is  more  striking,  in  the 
spirit,  than  the  appearance  of  these  two  motley 
groups,  convened  for  such  different  objects.  If  the 
Chinese  had  been  enraged  at  their 'deity,  and  inten- 
ded this  as  a public  expression  of  their  contempt,  it 
would  have  been  more  in  character.  Such  is  the 
phrenzy  of  the  human  mind,  without  the  restraining 
and  renewing  powers  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

March  25th. — Dr.  Morrison  sent  for  us  this 
evening,  to  meet  Leang  Afa  at  his  rooms.  As  is  gene- 
rally known,  he  is  among  the  first  fruits  of  the  mis- 
sion to  China,  and  if  the  promise  respecting  the  Jews 
be  applicable  to  the  Chinese,  and  the  multitude 
composing  “ the  lump”  be  individually  as  holy  as 
“ the  first  fruits,”  we  may  expect  a glorious  harvest, 
from  this  neglected  part  of  the  Saviour’s  promised 
vineyard.  Since  his  conversion  he  has  been  greatly 
persecuted,  and  is  daily  “ counted  worthy  to  sufier 
shame  for  His  name.”  Active  and  undaunted  in  the 
service  of  his  master,  he  has  been  seized,  imprisoned, 
spoiled  of  his  goods,  and  scourged.  His  daily  busi- 
ness, notwithstanding  the  rage  of  his  enemies,  and  the 
revilings  of  his  friends,  is  to  preach  and  teach  Jesus 
Christ,  “ from  house  to  house.”  He  appears  to  pos- 
sess the  spirit  of  a martyr,  and  We  have  reason  to 
hope  is  prepared,  if  necessary,  to  meet  his  honora- 
ble end.  The  feelings  he  expressed,  in  welcoming 


m 


108 


CHINA. 


missionaries  to  his  benighted  country,  were  awaken- 
ed in  us  at  the  sight  of  one,  in  whom  appeared  so 
distinctly  the  image  of  the  Saviour. 

He  read  the  tenth  chapter  of  Luke  in  Chinese, 
and  explained  \frith  much  propriety  the  passage,  re- 
specting the  harvest  and  laborers.  The  interview 
was  closed  by  a solemn  and  earnest  petition,  in  his 
own  language,  which  before  rising  from  our  knees, 
was  translated  for  our  edification,  by  Dr.  M.,  and  of- 
fered to  “ the  same  Lord  over  all.”  It  was  mentioned 
that  all  his  prayers  are  so  different  from  the  set 
phraseology  of  the  formalist,  and  so  feelingly  adapted 
to  circumstances,  that  they  carry  with  them  the  evi- 
dence of  their  origin  and  sincerity.* 

April  2d. — One  of  the  most  popular  amusements 
in  China,  and  one  which  quite  forces  itself  upon  your 
attention  at  this  season,  is  the  drama.  If  you  walk 
abroad,  and  allow  your  eyes  their  wonted  liberty 
you  are  sure  to  see  it ; if  you  remain  at  home,  and 
allow  your  ears  the  same  freedom,  you  will  certainly 
hear  it,  or  its  accompaniments. 

Stages  are  annually  erected  in  the  most  public 
and  spacious  openings  of  the  streets,  and  frequently 

* Others  have  been  successively  associated  with  Leang  Afa, 
and  his  last  report  mentions  that  “ there  are  upwards  of  ten  of  us, 
who,  with  one  heart  and  united  minds, continue  to  serve  the  Lord, 
and  practise  the  holy  doctrines  of  the  Gospel.*  Every  Sabbath  day 
we  assemble  together,  to  praise  the  Saviour  for  the  mighty  grace 
of  the  redemption.’’ 


CHINA. 


109 


on  the  ground  of  wealthy  citizens.  When  the 
exhibition  is  intended  for  the  amusement  of  the 
public,  the  expenses,  it  is  said,  are  defrayed  by  the 
inhabitants  of  that  district.  The  rich  engage  these 
actors  for  the  entertainment  of  themselves  and  fami- 
lies ; often  at  their  convivial  parties,  for  the  honor  of 
their  guests,  and  at  times  simply  for  success  in  their 
temporal  affairs,  as  they  strangely  associate  prospe- 
rity in  business  with  these  and  many  other  equally 
silly  performances.  These  exhibitions  are  frequent- 
ly intended  for  the  honor  and  gratification  of  their 
gods.  The  square  belonging  to  some  of  the  temples, 
is  one  of  the  most  common  locations  selected,  and 
the  scenes  are  at  times  kept  up  for  seven  successive 
days  and  nights. 

The  sentiments  they  entertain  of  the  objects  of 
their  adoration  and  trust,  may  be  gathered  from  the 
pieces  introduced  for  their  amusement.  Many  of  these 
pieces  are  of  a tragic  character,  founded  upon  ancient 
chronicles,  and  designed  to  perpetuate  the  notable 
events  of  the  empire.  That  these  should  be  grateful 
to  the  deified  heroes,  to  whom  the  temples  are  dedi- 
cated, and  who  were  the  chief  actors  in  the  scenes,  is 
a natural  conclusion.  But  what  ideas  must  they 
possess  of  the  moral  character  of  these  honored  be- 
ings, if  they  believe  that  their  attempts  at  comedy, 
buffoonery,  and  gross  obscenity,  are  acceptable  and 
approved. 


10 


110 


CHINA. 


The  inconsistencies  and  puerilities,  mentioned  by 
writers,  are  very  glaring.  How  the  spectators  .can 
endure  such  childish  tricks,  and  even  admire  them, 
must  be  a source  of  wonder  to  those  who  regard  the 
nation  as  advanced  beyond  the  mere  vaunt  of  supe- 
riority in  taste  and  attainments. 

According  to  the  sentiments  of  foreigners,  their 
music  is  deficient  in  every  excellence  of  instrumental 
harmony.  They  are  fond  of  sounds,  and  have  a va- 
riety of  instruments,  and  practise  sufficiently  to  be- 
come proficients ; but  either  all  our  ideas  on  the  sub- 
ject are  wrong,  or  there  is  very  little  musical  talent 
or  taste  in  the  nation.  Their  instruments  are  in  gene- 
ral, differently  constructed  from  those  designed  for 
euphony  among  us,  and  the  musicians  are  not  unfre- 
quently  lads,  who  appear  in  a great  measure  to  con- 
sult their  own  childish  whims,  in  the  manner  and 
pauses  of  their  performances.  In  the  music  which 
is  generally  heard  at  their  processions,  a person  is 
strongly  inclined  to  doubt,  whether  any  thing  beyond 
mere  noise  is  intended,  and  their  most  popular  tunes, 
when  performed  by  practised  men,  have  little  in  them 
that  strikes  pleasantly  upon  the  ear  of  any  but  Chi- 
namen. The  gong  is  generally  produced  on  every 
occasion  which  calls  for  music,  and  there  are  many 
ceremonies,  both  in  etiquette  and  religion,  in  which  it 
is  considered  the  only  appropriate  instrument.  Its 
loud  vibratory  sounds,  according  to  the  usual  mode 


CHINA. 


Ill 


of  beating  it,  though  considered  agreeable  by  some, 
appear  to  me  to  be  on  a par  with  the  tones  of  a 
cracked  bell,  scarcely  so  mellifluous. 

June  24th. — One  of  the  annual  festivals  has  been 
celebrated  to-day,  and  the  contusion  of  a holyday 
crowd,  the  noise  of  guns,  crackers,  gongs,  and  drums, 
and  the  display  of  streamers  and  ornaments,  of  almost 
every  gaudy  color,  have  fatigued  the  senses  and 
rendered  the  shades  and  silence  of  night  peculiarly 
grateful.  The  day  commemorates  the  death  of  a 
statesman  of  high  respectability,  who,  faithful  to  the 
office  intrusted  to  him,  was  so  sensitive  to  the  slan- 
derous misrepresentations  of  his  enemies,  that  he 
threw  himself  in  a river  and  was  drowned.  His 
name  was  Watune,  and  the  event  took  place  about 
two  thousand  three  hundred  years  ago. 

There  is  a custom  connected  with  the  observance 
of  the  anniversary,  which  proves  a source  both  of 
amusement  and  danger,  and  with  which  t^e  populace 
are  so  captivated  that  personal  safety  and  legislative 
prohibitions  are  alike  disregarded.  They  have  long 
narrow  shallops,  curiously  constructed  for  the  occa- 
sion, which  they  term  dragon-boats,  probably  from 
their  serpent-like  appearance,  and  with  which  they 
pretend  to  explore  the  rivers  and  creeks,  for  the  undis- 
covered body  of  the  ancients.  These  contain  from 
sixty  to  one  hundred  men,  furnished  with  paddlesj 
which  they  time  to  the  beat  of  the  gong  and  drum. 


112 


CHINA. 


and  with  which  they  drive  them  forward  with  ^reat 
velocity.  We  have  heard  *of  no  accident  to-day, 
although  not  unfrequently  the  scene  closes  with  a 
tragedy.  It  is  the  custom  to  try  the  comparative 
speed  of  the  boats,  and  inflamed  with  the  spirit  of 
rivalry  and  the  fumes  of  samshoo,  they  sometimes 
come  in  contact,  and  convert  their  paddles  into  wea- 
pons of  death.  Two  years  ago,  beside  running  down 
a number  of  boats,  and  drowning  men  and  women, 
one  of  them  was  upset,  and  eighteen  perished. 

Various  superstitious  customs  are  observed  on  this 
day.  The  mechanics  and  shopkeepers  suspend  their 
labors,  and  too  frequently  mdulge  in  feasting  and 
licentiousness. 

August  9th,  1830. — After  a visit  of  nearly  three 
weeks  at  Macao,  we  are  again  bending  our  course 
towards  the  scene  of  our  present  labors.  A prison 
excepted,  it  would  probably  be  difficult  to  And  a better 
preparative  for  the  enjoyment  of  verdant  scenery, 
invigorating  breezes,  bodily  recreation,  and  ladies’ 
society,  than  a residence  at  Canton. 

We  engaged  an  English  sail-boat  manned  with 
Lascars,*  and  favored  with  a fine  breeze,  in  less  than 
twenty-four  hours  reached  our  destination.  The  time 
has  passed  rapidly  and  agreeably,  between  the  improve- 
ment of  opportunities  for  usefulness,  and  the  enjoyment 

* Lascars  are  native  sailors  from  Bengal,  or  other  parts  of  India 
Proper. 


CHINA. 


113 


of  advantages  for  health.  In  connection  with  the 
usual  morning  service,  ordinarily  conducted  by  Dr. 
Morrison,  an  evening  lecture  was  also  held  at  his 
house.  The  attendance  much  exceeded  expectation, 
though  it  was  something  of  a novelty — probably  the 
first  Protestant  preaching  ever  attended  on  the  Lord’s 
day  evening,  in  the  empire  of  China.  Though  in 
itself  of  comparatively  small  importance,  it  opens  a 
delightful  vista  into  the  future,  and  discloses  to  the 
eye  of  faith  an  extended  scene  of  gathering,  atten- 
tive, praising  multitudes,  filling  the  thousand  temples 
of  Jehovah  which  shall  soon  stud  this  land,  and 
scarcely  capable  of  believing  the  moral  night  which 
shrouds  our  present  post  of  observation,  and  through 
which  nothing  but  the  lamp  of  prophecy  sheds  the 
least  ray. 

That  such  a prospect  should  be  considered  a wild 
fancy  by  a large  proportion  of  mankind,  who  look  only 
at  things  as  they  appear,  and  overlook  the  determina- 
tion and  ability  of  Jehovah  to  make  them  appear 
otherwise,  cannot  be  wonderful  to  those  who  know 
the  influence  of  the  senses  upon  the  mind,  and  who 
could  have  seen  the  spectacle  of  idolatry  which  we 
witnessed  during  our  visit  at  Macao. 

As  a remedy  to  the  declension  of  trade  and  destruc- 
tion of  fires  with  which  the  nation  has  been  recently 
visited,  a famous  geomancer  recommended  the  erec- 
tion of  a new  temple,  to  be  dedicated  to  the  “god  of 
10* 


114 


CHINA. 


wealth,  the  god  of  the  north,  and  the  god  of  fire.”  A 
subscription  was  opened  for  the  purpose,  and  the  indi- 
vidual contributions  varied  from  one  to  <me  thousand 
dollars.  A splendid  Pagan  procession  passed  through 
the  streets  for  ten  successive  days.  It  was  composed, 
each  day,  of  distinct  classes  of  persons,  belonging  to 
a particular  trade  or  neighborhood.  Each  party  de- 
frayed its  own  expenses,  and  from  appearances  aimed 
at  eclipsing  the  pomp  of  its  predecessors.  Being  an 
object  of  engrossing  interest  and  not  very  frequent 
occurrence,  it  enlisted  among  its  attendants  many 
persons  from  those  classes  of  the  community  which, 
it  is  said,  seldom  honor  the  gods  with  their  presence. 
As  usual,  there  was  a number  of  bands  of  music,  some 
of  which  were  volunteer  companies  of  respectability  ; 
but  never  to  my  recollection  have  I heard  such  grating, 
deafening  tones,  from  instruments  designed  for  human 
gratification  or  human  endurance,  with  the  nervous 
susceptibilities  of  this  mortal  frame. 

Among  the  great  variety  of  objects  intended  to 
give  effect  to  some  of  the  processions,  Avere  young 
girls,  apparently  standing  in  the  air,  at  least  with  no 
other  visible  support  than  the  decayed  branch  of 
a bush,  held,  by  some,  at  arm’s  length  from  the 
body,  or  furnishing  to  others  a perch  for  their  dimi- 
nutive feet.  In  the  first  instance,  the  branch  appeared 
too  feeble  to  sustain  the  weight  of  the  body,  even  if 
the  muscles  of  the  arm  were  capable  of  such  an  effort. 


CHINA. 


115 


and  in  the  other,  it  afforded  no  surface  to  balance  the 
person,  if  the  vehicle  beneath  had  been  stationary. 
The  probability  is,  that  there  was  a communication 
of  wire,  or  something  sufficiently  tenuous  and  strong, 
painted  in  imitation  of  decayed  branches,  inclosing 
the  body  and  fastened  to  the  platform,  which  was  car- 
ried beneath  them.  Their  loose  flowing  robes  were 
well  calculated  to  favor  the  illusion. 

In  one  of  the  trains  was  a large,  hideous  figure, 
made  of  painted  paper,  and  designed  to  materialize 
their  fancy  of  what  they  term  “ lung,”  or  the  dragon. 
This  creature,  or  deity,  or  both,  as  their  systems  recog- 
nize no  distinction,  is  supposed  to  exert  a mighty  influ- 
ence in  the  regions  of  the  air.  It  is  thought  to  answer 
in  some  respects,  to  the  Python  of  the  Greeks — cer- 
tainly the  locality  and  prevalence  of  its  dominions  is 
strikingly  analagons  to  the  “ dragon,  that  old  serpent” 
of  the  true  faith.  Its  length  of  volume,  which  pro- 
bably exceeded  one  hundred  feet,  was  supported  by  a 
number  of  men  beneath,  and  partially  within  it,  who 
held  it  upon  poles,  and  gave  the  huge  monster,  as  it 
passed,  the  sinuous  motion  of  its  genus.  The  day 
closed,  or  rather  the  night  was  spent,  in  the  perform- 
ance of  plays  before  the  temple.  A temporary  stage 
was  erected  for  the  occasion,  and  the  court  richly 
illuminated  with  clusters  of  glass  chandeliers.  Such 
is  the  solemnity  and  reasonableness  of  painim  wor- 
ship. 


116 


CHINA. 


At  present  we  are  returning  in  a large  native  boat, 
by  what  is  termed  the  inside  passage.  Vast  meadows, 
intersected  by  rivers  and  creelcs,  and  bounded  by 
irregular  ranges  of  naked  hills,  extend  in  some 
places  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  These  are  all 
covered  with  paddy.  What  a beneficent  provision  in 
these  extensive  and  irriguous  lands  for  the  rice-eating 
milhons  of  China. 

A hght  breeze  bears  us  along,  while  village  after 
village  rises  to  view,  and  recedes  in  the  distance. 
There  is  very  little  in  the  general  aspect  of  the  coun- 
try, or  any  of  its  insulated  objects,  to  awaken  regret 
at  the  impossibility  of  landing.  The  site  of  the  villa- 
ges is  generally  low  and  level ; some  of  them  are 
flanked  by  hills,  sacred  to  the.  gods  and  the  dead,  and 
all  at  least,  through  our  present  medium — a heated 
atmosphere,  and  languid  eyes,  destitute  of  any  attrac- 
tions, or  even  of  an  air  of  comfort.  The  houses  are 
generally  small,  built  of  stone,  mud,  and  brick,  and 
presenting  in  group,  a dull  uniformity  of  appearance. 

Clumps  of  trees  and  patches  of  verdure  give  a 
rural  aspect  to  some  spots ; the  margin  of  the  river 
in  places  is  lined  with  fruit  trees,  principally  the 
shadach;  but  the  population  appear  so  poor,  and 
their  habits  so  filthy,  that  they  neutralize  all  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  inanimate  beauties  around  them. 

We  were  obliged  to  stop  at  Heong-shan,  the  prin- 
cipal village  between  Canton  and  Macao,  where  our 


CHINA. 


117 


passes  and  baggage  were  examined.  Before  the 
custom-house  officers  arrived,  the  water  population 
crowded  around  us,  and  endeavored  by  all  the  force 
of  pantomimic  argument  to  obtain  our  charities. 
Large  pagodas  surmounting  the  tops  of  some  of  the 
highest  hiUs,  and  others  of  minor  altitude,  but  gene- 
rally upon  the  principal  elevation  in  the  vicinity,  bring 
forcibly  to  mind  the  denounced  idolatry  of  ancient 
days.  How  animating  the  prospect,  when  “these 
high  places  shall  be  removed,”  and  “ the  mountain  of 
the  Lord’s  house  shall  be  established  on  the  tops  of 
these  very  mountains.” 

August  27th. — Within  the  past  week,  we  have 
visited  two  of  the  dwelling  establishments,  belonging 
to  the  hong  merchants,  and  situated  in  the  village  of 
Hainam.  As  specimens  of  the  style  of  living  among 
the  most  wealthy  classes  of  the  nation,  they  are  inte- 
resting ; they  consist,  in  g^ieral,  of  a group  of  build- 
ings, of  different  dimensions  and  compartments,  co- 
vering a large  area,  and  intervened  by  gardens  and 
small  lakes  or  ponds  of  water.  Around  the  ponds 
and  in  them,  were  factitious  rocks  in  striking  imita- 
tion of  nature,  while  the  beautiful  water  lily,  Nelum- 
bium,  spread  its  broad  leaves  above  and  upon  the 
surface  of  the  waters.  With  the  exception  of  a few 
detached  retreats,  these  buildings  are  connected ; but 
they  branch  off  in  various  directions,  and  are  ap- 
proached by  small  inclosed  avenues.  The  private 


118 


CHINA, 


apartments,  accessible  only  by  these  narrow  passage- 
ways, allow  of  retirement  to  the  family,  and  secrecy 
to  scenes  of  carousal,  even  when  the  more  public  halls 
are  open  to  the  reception  of  strangers.  One  suit  of 
apartments  is  fitted  up  for  the  women,  the  other  for 
guests.  With  onn  or  two  exceptions,  the  rooms  are 
by  no  means  spacious,  but  gaudily,  and  some  of  them 
richly  furnished.  The  chairs  and  tables  are  large  and 
massive,  and  almost  every  room  has  at  least  two 
couches,  with  a table  between  them,  designed  for  a 
luxurious  tete  a tete. 

. But  the  ornamental  objects  are  the  most  attractive. 
Painted  and  intagliated  walls,  chandeliers,  lamps,  a 
variety  of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities,  and  an- 
cient relics,  are  displayed  to  as  much  advantage  as 
possible.  Some  of  the  specimens  of  coin  and  ware, 
are  very  ancient,  and  large  vases,  formerly  used  for 
idolatrous  purposes,  very  costly.  One  of  the  rooms 
was  fitted  up  and  furnished  as  a domestic  chapel. 
Incense  was  burnt  before  a painted  figure,  intended  to 
represent  the  tutelar  deity  of  the  house.  We  have 
referred  to  the  custom  of  putting  up  tablets  in  the 
houses,  at  the  demise  of  parents  and  other  near  rela- 
tives. It  is  thought  that  one  of  the  three  spirits, 
which  the  books  assign  to  each  person,  abides  near 
this  tablet,  and  is  refreshed  and  gratified  by  the  offer- 
ings which  are  daily  made  to  it. 

The  proprietor  of  one  of  the  houses  invited  us  to 


CHINA. 


119 


the  ceremony  of  burying  his  mother,  which,is  to  take 
place  during  the  approaching  week.  The  bo^y  has 
been  preserved  above  ground  for  a year  or  more,  and 
now,  for  the  first  time  since  her  death,  the  precise 
place  and  hour  of  interment  have  presented  them- 
selves to  the  imaginations  of  the  deceiving,  and  pro- 
bably deluded  priests.*  Our  host  mentioned  that  one 
of  the  principal  hong  merchants  had  a number  of  his 
deceased  relatives  unburied ; some  of  whom  had 
been  kept  thirty  years,  waiting  for  the  lingering, 
auspicious  hour.  This  is  said  to  be  contrary  to  the 
laws  of  the  empire ; but  superstition  has  no  law,  es- 
pecially when  protected  by  the  strong  arm  of  pecu- 
niary power.  That  many,  who  are  guilty  of  this 
ofience,  have  the  same  control  of  the  law  as  the  one 
referred  to,  is  evident,  from  the  fact  that  in  January, 
1830,  there  were  reported  to  be  ten  thousand  coffined 
bodies  in  Canton,  not  interred.! 

August  31st,  1830. — Within  the  past  week,  the 
most  gaudy  pageants  and  brilliant  illuminations  have 
cheered  the  darkness  of  the  night  Large  boats, 
adorned  with  variegated  lamps,  have  passed  the 
city  in  a long  line,  for  a number  of  successive  even- 

* The  ceremony  was  afterward  performed  in  a splendid  man- 
ner. Kindred,  friends  and  spectators,  from  all  the  surrounding 
country,  met  and  offered  sacrifices  to  the  deceased.  The  expense 
incurred  was  not  less  than  ten  thousand  dollars. — Can.  Register. 
t Canton  Register. 


120 


CHINA. 


iiigs.*  The  lights  were  arranged  in  horizontal  rows, 
around  the  hulls  of  the  vessels,  at  such  distances  as  to 
combine  something  of  the  effect  of  a glowing  sheet 
of  flame,  with  that  of  innumerable  inlaid  gems,  each 
shedding  a lustre  far  more  vivid  and  sparkling  than 
their  rich  ground- work.  From  these  rows  there  were 
others  brandling  above  in  difierent  directions,  and 
forming  different  figures.  The  music  accompanied, 
or  rather  silenced,  by  the  crashing  gong,  was  in  stri- 
king contrast  with  the  taste  displayed  in  gratifying  the 
sense  of  vision.  But  such  strains,  they  pretend,  are 
more  grateful  to  their  ears  than  the  finest  strains  of 
European  harmony. 

Last  evening  a ceremony  was  performed  before 
the  factories,  which  combined  all  the  whims  of  su- 
perstition, with  some  of  the  sacrificial  rites  observed 
of  old,  by  divine  appointment.  A large  quantity  of 
tinsel  paper,  covered  with  a thin  leaf  of  gold  or  sil- 
ver, was  consumed  amid  rows  of  lamps  and  incense 
sticks,  to  supply  the  wants  of  departed  spirits.  This 
paper  is  cut  or  formed  in  imitation  of  houses,  gar- 
ments, sedan-chairs,  boats,  horses,  and  whatever  arti- 
cles of  necessity  or  convenience,  the  deceased  is  sup- 
posed to  require.  It  is  fancied  that  it  passes  by  the 
process  of  fire  into  the  world  of  spirits,  and  is  there, 
by  some  unaccountable  means,  converted  into 

• These  are  often  hymenial  processions.  Whether  they  ever  have 
a religious  object,  I am  unable  to  decide,  though  it  is  highly  probable. 


CHINA, 


121 


money,  and  whatever  objects  are  demanded.*  The 
real  wardrobe  is  often  consumed  for  the  same  pur- 
pose. 

Under  the  influence  of  a kindred  superstition  and 
one  equally  extravagant,  it  is  customary  for  suicides 
and  criminals  to  array  themselves  in  their  best  ap- 
parel, in  the  immediate  prospect  of  death,  believing 
that  the  spirit  appears  in  the  invisible  world,  under 
the  same  advantages  of  dress,  as  decked  the  body  at 
the  hour  of  separation.  In  connection  with  these  oflfer- 
ings,  a table  was  spread,  and  supplied  with  meats, 
fruits  and  wine,  no  doubt  originally  intended  for  a 
feast  upon  a sacrifice,  but  now  perverted  to  the  gross 
purpose  of  feeding  the  spirits  of  the  departed.!  One 
of  the  most  respectable  servants  arrayed  in  his  best 
suit,  kneeled  before  the  table,  poured  out  a libation 
of  wine,  and  bowed  his  head  to  the  ground  a number 

* “ The  burning  of  paper  (for  religious  purposes)  appears  to 
have  been  adopted  immediately  after  the  abolition  of  human'  sacri- 
fices, on  the  death  of  Che-hwang-te,  who  died  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years  before  Christ,  when  he  caused  his  domestics  to  be 
put  to  death  and  interred  with  him,  to  attend  on  him  in  a future 
state.  At  present,  the  consumption  of  paper,  which  is  annually 
used  on  all  religious  occasions,  is  very  considerable,  and  forms  an 
extensive  branch  of  trade  in  China.”  Indo-Chinese  Gleaner, 
Vol.  ii.  36  p. 

t When  laughed  at  for  their  folly,  and  having  the  evidence  of 
more  than  one  of  the  senses,  that  the  offerings  remain,  they  will 
often  pretend  that  the  flavor,  or  at  least  such  qualities  of  the  food 
as  nourishes  the  spirit,  is  extracted. 

11 


122 


CHINA. 


of  times ; then  taking  the  offerings  spread  before  him 
on  the  table,  he  threw  a portion  of  the  fruits  to  the 
waiting  spectators,  and  passed  the  rest  to  the  servants 
of  the  house. 

For  several  days,  service  has  been  performed  in 
a temporary  building  at  the  head  of  China-street,  by 
priests  of  the  Budh  sect.  The  stage  on  which  they 
stood  was  elevated  above  the  heads  of  the  people, 
and  hung  around  with  large  paintings.  Before  these 
figures,  no  doubt  intended  to  represent  their  male  and 
female  deities,  the  priests  arrayed  in  their  pontificals 
stood,  and  holding  a paper  in  their  hands,  mumbled 
their  orisons  in  a style  that  left  no  reason  to  wonder 
at  the  striking  resemblance  noticed  by  the  Catholic 
missionaries  to  “ the  holy  manners”  of  their  church. 
This  ceremony  is  a grand  annual  mass,  for  the  bene- 
fit of  those  souls  that  have  no  relatives  to  pray  for 
their  release  from  misery,  and  transition  into  happi- 
ness. It  corresponds  in  many  most  striking  particu- 
lars to  the  “ manners”  referred  to,  and  probably  had 
the  same  origin. 

September  21st. — For  a number  of  days  they 
have  been  preparing  some  of  the  principal  streets  for  a 
festival,  in  honor  of  the  deity  who  presides  over  fire,  and 

t 

as  a thank-offering,  for  preserving  the  city  from  its  de- 
solations. He  is  represented  with  a frightful  counte- 
nance, and  a long  flaming  beard.  To-night  the  noise 
of  instruments  and  voices  announced  the  commence- 


CHINA. 


123 


merit  of  the  ceremonies,  and  summoned  multitudes 
of  spectators  to  the  scene. 

The  principal  street  was  arched  over  from  the' top  , 
of  the  houses  with  cloth  of  such  a texture,  as  to  pre- 
vent the  rain,  which  weis  falling  at  the  time,  from  in- 
terrupting their  engagements.  Beneath  the  arch-way 
were  suspended  glass  chandeliers,  variegated  lamps? 
cloth  festoons  of  the  most  gaudy  colors,  small  illumi- 
nated boats  furnished,  and  peopled,  with  a great  vari- 
ety of  other  ornaments,  all  tastefully  arranged,  and 
glowing  with  a dazzling  brilliance.  At  each  end  of 
the  street  a stage  was  erected,  with  carved  or  painted 
images  in  an  alcove,  and  with  lighted  tapers  and  or- 
namented cakes  standing  before  them.  Musicians 
were  seated  on  these  stages,  who  accompanied  their 
noisy  instruments  with  a harsh  nerve-sawing  vocife- 
ration. To  amuse  the  crowd,  or  gratify  the  gods, 
or  both,  men  were  engaged  in  exhibiting  feats  of 
manual,  and  pedestrial  dexterity. 

From  the  noise  of  instruments  and  voices,  the  cere- 
monies or  amusements  must  have  continued  through 
the  greater  part  of  the  night.  In  extending  my  walk 
beyond  the  limits  visited  last  evening,  I found  that 
a number  of  streets  were  arrayed  in  the  same 
style  as  the  one  described.  A splendid  temple  had 
been  erected  at  the  intersection  of  three  of  the 
streets,  with  a large  stage,  on  which  were  displayed 
a profusion  of  ornamental  and  sacred  vases,  with 


124 


CHINA. 


pictures,  an  altar,  and  tapers.  The  sides  of  this 
temporary  pavilion,  above  the  heads  of  the  crowd 
, wefe  composed  of  several  stories  filled  with  objects 
and  images,  representing  land  and  water  scenery, 
and  depicting  the  martial  feats  of  their  heroes,  and 
the  amusements  of  their  gentry.  Inclosed  within 
a paling,  were  large  figures,  intended  probably  as 
representations  of  certahi  species  of  men  and  beasts, 
but  which  have  no  originals  in  nature.  The 
frightful  distortions  of  countenance,  by  which  the 
Chinese,  no  doubt,  intend  to  express  something  ex- 
tremely magnanimous,  or  superhuman;  and  espe- 
cially the  flame-colored  beard,  marked  out  the  princi- 
pal image  to  be  the  object  of  their  present  devotions. 

The  street  running  parallel  with  China-street,  in 
many  respects  eclipsed  the  array  of  its  rival.  Through 
the  whole  length  of  it  were  suspended  from  the  arch- 
way above,  a great  diversity  of  beautiful  cars,  contain- 
ing male  and  female  figures,  decked  in  robes  of  natural 
flowers.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  heavy  odor  exhaled 
from  these  gay  garments,  it  would  scarcely  have  been 
suspected  that  they  were  not  the  product  of  delicate  and 
laborious  fingers.  Even  some  of  the  old  residents  had 
always  mistaken  them  for  artificial  decorations. 

The  performance  on  the  stage  was  continued 
through  the  day,  and  swelled  to  almost  a deafening 
clangor  in  the  beginning  of  the  evening.  The  crowd 
became  so  dense  in  the  street  of  flowers,  that  after 


CHINA. 


125 


toiling  with  difficult  progress,  and  descrying  in  the 
perspective  nothing  but  well-stowed  heads,  I halted 
for  a short  time  and  returned.  My  position  before 
leaving  this  scene  of  confusion,  gave  me  a fair  oppor- 
tunity of  judging  of  the  merits  of  one  of  their  popular 
ballad  singers  ; and  though  the  opinion  I had  formed 
was  far  from  being  flattering  to  the  powers  and  taste 
of  Chines^  vocalists,  I certainly  saw  no  reason  to 
change  it.  Of  all  grimaces  and  noises  ever  seen  or 
heard,  nothing  but  the  wildest  buffoonery  could  equal 
this.  He  stretched  his  mouth  to  the  utmost  tension 
of  its  elastic  muscles,  raised  his  voice  to  its  most  un- 
natural and  grating  key,  and  after  a number  of  long- 
drawn  shrieks  and  quavers,  exerted  it  to  a pitch  as 
thrilling  as  though  he  felt  determined  to  close  either 
his  own  lips  or  our  ears  in  perpetual  silence.  It  was 
necessary  to  hear  the  effort,  and  see  the  listening  con- 
course to  believe  that  such  tortured  faces,and  torturing 
sounds  could  ever  be  endured.  Another  one  whom  I 
unfortunately  listened  to  yesterday,  left  such  a stamp 
of  his  ludicrous  appearance  upon  my  imagination,  as 
I fear  will  haunt  me  for  time  to  come. 

25th. — This  morning,  the  fifth  day  from  its  com-’ 
mencement,  the  splendid  scene  closed.  The  revel 
was  kept  up  all  the  last  night,  and  he  who  could  gaze 
upon  the  living  mass  which  it  assembled,  especially 
after  the  laborer  was  released  from  his  daily  task,  and 
not  feel  the  deepest  compassion  for  the  ignorance  and 
ir 


126 


CHINA. 


infatuation  of  the  nation,  must  himself  be  as  truly 
pitiable  as  those  whom  he  cannot  pity. 

•One  of  the  most  intelligent  Chinamen  mentioned, 
that  a priest  belonging  to  the  temple  of  the  god  whose 
tutelage  they  thus  gratefully  acknowledged,  and  im- 
plored for  the  future,  made  it  his  business  to  go  round 
every  day  and  take  notes  of  the  manner  in  which 
the  rites  were  conducted.  At  the  close  of  the  cere- 
monies, these  are  all  carefully  written  in  one  paper, 
and  passed  into  the  invisible  world  for  the  information 
of  the  god,  “ altogether  such  an  one  as  themselves.” 


CHAPTER  y. 


. CHINA  CONTINUED. 

“ The  dark  places  of  the  earth  are  full  of  the  habitations  of  cruelty.” 

To  ^ve  any  adequate  idea  of  the  various  and 
complicated  miseries  existing  in  China,  would  fill  a 
volume.  Female  infanticide,  we  have  reason  to  be- 
lieve, is  very  common.  It  is  thought  by  some  of  the 
best  Chinese  scholars,  to  be  greatly  increased,  if  it 
were  not  produced,  by  their  philosophical  notions 
respecting  the  origin  and  continuance  of  all  things. 
There  are  two  powers  of  nature,  according  to  their 
books,  on  the  regular  action  of  which  the  harmony 
of  the  universe,  both  physical  and  moral,  depends. 
Excess,  or  defect  in  either  power,  deranges  the  system 
of  nature,  and  introduces  disorder  in  the  afiairs  of 
mankind.*  The  one  of  them  they  consider  to  be  of 

' Originally  there  was  but  one  eternal  principle,  which,  in 
their  view,  was  merely  the  first  link  of  a great  material  chain,  nei- 
ther distinct  from  the  universe,  nor  endued  with  any  moral  perfec- 
tions. They  represent  this  first  cause — this  first  link  of  the  chain, 
by  a circle ; but  as  they  feel  it  difficult  to  account,  from  what 
they  see  in  nature,  for  all  the  absurdities  which  present  themselves 


128 


CHINA, 


the  m^ciiline  gender,  the  other  of  the  feminine,  and 
the  difference  between  the  two  they  suppose  as  great 
as  between  the  “ vis  mobile”  and  the  “ vis  inertia”  of 
the  old  philosophers. 

To  what  extent  the  inhuman  practice  of  infanti- 
cide prevails  in  China,  we  have  no  means  of  deter- 
mining. In  the  imperial  city,  after  allowing  more 
than  one  half  for  natural  deaths,  the  number  of  exposed 
infants  is,  according  to  Barrow,  about  four  thousand  a 
year. 

Some  of  the  scenes  he  witnessed  while  at  Pekin 
were  almost  incredible.  Before  the  carts  go  around 
in  the  mornings  to  pick  up  the  bodies  of  infants  thrown 
in  the  streets — amounting  to  about  four-and-twenty 
every  night — dogs  and  swine  are  let  loose  upon  them. 
The  bodies  of  those  found  are  carried  to  a common 
pit  without  the  city  walls,  in  which  tlie  living  and  the 
dead  are  thrown  together.  This,  however,  is  a small 
proportion  compared  with  other  places. 

In  some  provinces,  not  one  out  of  three  is  suffered 
to  live,  and  in  others,  as  the  writer  has  been  informed 
by  the  Chinese  from  those  places,  the  difference  be- 
tween the  male  and  the  female  population  is  as  one 

on  the  supposition  of  a simple  homogeneous  body,  acting  on  itself, 
they  suppose  that  when  the  system  of  nature  assumed  its  present 
form,  the  one  eternal  principle  was  divided,  and  became  two  pow- 
ers, which  is  represented  by  a figure  of  a circle  divided  in  two  by 
a waving  line  across  the  centre. — See  Indo-Chinese  Gleaner,  Vol. 
iii.  page  2. 


CHINA. 


129 


to  ten.  We  believe  the  last  fact  is  limited  to  the  poor- 
est parts  of  the  empire. 

“ The  most  prevalent  mode  of  effecting  this  crime 
is  by  suffocation,  which  is  done  by  means  of  a piece 
of  paper,  dipped  in  vinegar,  laid  over  the  face  of  the 
child  so  as  to  prevent  it  from  breathing,  either  by 
means  of  its  mouth  or  nostrils.  It  is  said  to  be  fre- 
quently done  to  the  aged  and  afflicted,  to  cut  the 
brittle  thread  of  lifeP* 

Infanticide  is  almost  exclusively  limited  to  the 
female  sex ; and  the  condition  of  that  class  of  the 
community,  when  spared,  is  an  evidence  as  well  as 
one  cause  of  the  real  barbarity  and  misery  of  the 
nation. 

A Chinese  writer,  after  quoting  a large  portion  of 
one  of  their  moral  works  on  the  inferiority  and  treat- 
ment of  females,  makes  the  following  remarks  The 
very  dependent  and  degraded  state  of  females  in  China, 
may  be  partly  seen  from  this  extract.  They  are,  more- 
over, not  allowed  the  confidence  of  their  husbands, 
nor  to  sit  at  table  with  them,  nor  to  have  a voice  in 
domestic  concerns,  nor  to  visit  the  temples  where  the 
“prayers  of  the  unfortunate  are  supposed  to  find  access. 
Religion  is  denied  them.  Little  attention  seems  to  be 
paid  to  the  peculiar  circumstances  in  which,  as  wives 
and  mothers,  they  may  be  placed.  ‘ Rise ; run  ; work  ; 
eat  little ; spend  little ; be  silent  ,*  keep  out  of  sight ; 

* Indo-Chinese  Gleaner,  Vol.  iii.  page  193. 


130 


CHINA. 


obey ; bear ; and  rather  bleed,  starve,  and  die,  than 
dare  to  complain,’  is  the  genuine  language  of  the  above 
extract.  Though  fortunately  for  them,  humanity, 
common  sense,  and  interest  in  many  cases  plead  in 
their  favor,  and  procure  a relaxation  of  the  rigor  of 
ethical  and  legislative  restrictions,  yet  where  such 
restrictions  have  the  sanction  both  of  public  opinion 
and  of  supreme  authority,  how  is  it  possible  to  pre- 
vent their  hurtful  operation  on  this  tender  half  of 
human  nature.”* 

Without  education — crippled  from  infancy — close- 
ly immured — married  without  their  consent — in  some 
instances  even  sold  by  their  parents — and  often  treated 
most  unfeelingly  by  the  relatives,  and  the  other  wives 
of  their  husbands,  we  cannot  wonder  at  the  frequent 
suicides  among  them  of  which  we  read,  nor  of  their 
attem]^  to  poison  those  by  whom  all  their  happiness 
and  Ifojies  are  spoiled. 

The  poverty  of  the  lower  classes  turns  to  their 
account,  in  the  exemption  it  secures  them  from  the 
barbarous  custom  of  compressing  the  feet,  and  in  the 
necessity  it  enjoins  of  performing  laborious  work,  and 
thus  escaping  the  imprisonment  to  which  their  supe- 
riors are  doomed.  For  the  correction  of  these  evils, 
and  the  happiness  of  these  miserable  beings,  we 
must  look  to  the  influence  and  self-denying  labors 
of  Christian  ladies. 

* Indo-Chinese  Gleaner. 


CHINA. 


131 


But  suffering  by  the  hand  of  cruelty  is  not  con- 
fined to  the  female  sex  in  China.  lu  the  present  con- 
stitution of  society,  there  is  scarcely  any  security  for 
property  or  life  in  the  empire.  Some  of  the  laws  are 
unjust,  others  perverted  to  the  most  nefarious  purpo- 
ses. The  innocent  are  often  made  to  suffer  for  and 
with  the  guilty,  and  the  mandarines  have  it  in  their 
power  to  dispose  of  those  beneath  them,  according^to 
their  pleasure.  Hence  the  oppression  and  extortions 
under  which  the  nation  has  long  groaned.  Contrary 
to  all  the  laws  of  civilized  lands,  they  consider  each 
who  might  possibly  be  involved  in  a crime  committed, 
guilty,  until  he  proves  his  innocence.  This  accounts 
for  that  most  unreasonable,  and  if  possible,  still  more 
cruel  custom  of  examining  by  torture.  The  inno- 
cent are  thus  frequently  confounded  with  the  guilty, 
or,  if  capable  of  resisting  the  dreadful  temptation  of 
accusing  themselves  falsely,  they  are  often  made  to 
suffer  beyond  the  demerit  of  the  criminal.* 


• On  every  occasion  they  torture  by  pulling  or  twisting, round 
the  ears,  (the  torturer  having  previously  rendered  his  fingers  rough 
by  a powder,)  and  cause  them  to  kneel  a long  while  upon  chains. 
They  next  employ  what  they  call  the  beauty’s  bar,  (the  breast,  small 
of  the  back,  and  legs  bent  up,  are  fastened  to  three  cross-bars, 
which  causes  the  person  to  kneel  in  great  pain,)  the  parrot's 
beam,  (the  prisoner  is  raised  from  the  ground  by  strings  round 
the  fingers  and  thumbs,  suspended  from  a supple  transverse  beam,) 
the  refining  furnace,  (fire  is  applied  to  the  body)  and  other  im- 
plements, expressed  by  other  terms.  If  these  do  not  force  con- 


132- 


CHINA. 


Their  modes  of  punishment,  when  guilt  is  proved, 
and  especially  in  criminal  cases,  are  often  shocking  in 
the  extreme.  Strangling  and  beheading  are  so  com- 
mon, that  scarcely  any  notice  is  taken  of  them.  “ More 
than  one  thousand  criminals  suffer  death  annually  in 
the  province  of  Canton.  A learned  Chinese  says,  that 
on  an  average,  a hundred  are  put  to  death  by  law  in 
the  province  every  month.” 

“In  the  close  of  1816,  there  were  in  the  various 
prisons  of  the  Chinese  empire,  ten  thousand  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy  criminals  convicted  of  capital  offen- 
ces, and  awaiting  the  imperial  order  to  carry  into 
effect  the  sentence  of  death.  Some  men,  from  their 
sufferings  in  prison,  which  is  generally  so  loathsome 
and  horrible  a place,  that  it  is  called  “ hell,”  cannot 
support  themselves  in  the  position  required.  At  night 
they  are  chained  to  inclined  boards,  on  which  they 


fession,  they  double  the  cruelties,  till  the  criminal  faints,  and  is  re- 
stored to  life  again,  several  times  in  a day.  Prisoners,  unable  to 
sustain  these  agonies,  are  often  compelled  to  sign  a confession  of 
crimes,  of  which, after  death,many  of  them  are  proved  guiltless.  The 
cruelties  exercised  by  the  local  magistrates  cannot  be  described,  and 
the  various  police  runners  are  equally  ingenious  in  planning  to  en- 
rich themselves.  In  criminal  cases,  as  murder  and  robbery,  in  debts 
and  affrays,  they  endeavor  to  involve  all  who  appear  to  have  the 
slightest  connection,  that  they  may  obtain  bribes  from  them  for  the 
purchase  of  their  liberty.  These  petty  officers  load  their  captives 
■with  fetters,  until  they  cannot  stir  an  inch,  and  release  them  only  on 
receiving  a large  sum.  Their  sufferings  are  daily  accumulated, 
until  death  is  the  consequence.” — Indo-Chinese  Gleaner,  Vol.  i. 


CHINA. 


133 


sleep.  Cleanliness  is  neglected,  and  their  dungeons 
become  oifensive  and  unhealthful  in  the  highest  de- 
gree. Money  can  procure  some  alleviation,  and  the 
prisoners  of  long  standing,  attack  in  the  most  fero- 
cious manner  unhappy  persons  who  newly  enter. 
They  seize  them  by  the  arms  and  legs,  toss  them,  beat 
them,  and  bite  them,  to  extort  money  from  them.”* 
The  most  heinous  offences  are  visited  with  inflictions 
of  the  most  refined  and  exquisite  cruelty.  Crucifix- 
ion, cutting  to  pieces,  every  species  of  slow  and  pain- 
ful execution  are  employed. 

**  Gleaner. 


12 


> 


CHAPTER  VI. 


CHINA  CONTINUED. 

Feojm  the  last  date  to  the  time  of  his  departure, 
the  journal  of  the  writer  is  principally  occupied  with 
the  religious  services  of  his  fellow-missionary  and 
himself,  among  the  residents  at  Canton,  and  the  sea- 
men- at  Wliampoa.  As  Mr.  Bridgeman  uniformly  ' 
took  part  in  all  the  public  duties  of  the  Sabbath,  we 
were  enabled  to  supply  both  places  with  very  little 
interruption.*  A transcript  has  been  furnished  to  the 
American  Seamen’s  Society,  and  published. 

It  may  not  be  misplaced  to  repeat  here,  that  his 
object  was  to  ascertain  the  practicability  of  having  a 
seamen’s  chaplain  stationed  at  this  important  mart  of 
commerce,  and  that  the  short  experiment  fully  approv- 

* In  connection  with  the  study  of  the  language,  which  necessa- 
rily occupies  much  of  Mr.  B.’s  time,  he  has  about  half  a dozen  pro- 
mising Chinese  lads  under  his  instruction,  who  have  been  submit- 
ted by  their  parents  to  his  entire  control,  and  dwell  in  the  factory 
with  him.  One  of  them  is  the  son  of  Leang  Afa.  Let  those  inter- 
ested in  the  conversion  of  China,  pray  that  these  youths  may  be- 
come Christians,  and  teachers  of  their  countrymen. 


136 


CHINA. 


ed  the  benevolent  plan.  During  this  limited  period, 
many  facts  of  no  ordinary  interest  occurred,  which 
proclaimed  the  necessity  of  carrying  on  the  work 
commenced,  and  the  readiness  of  a merciful  Saviour 
to  bless  the  endeavor. 

It  is  affecting  to  loiow  what  multitudes,  who  leave 
their  homes  in  health  and  hope,  find  a grave  upon 
these  heathen  shores.  Numbers  every  season  are  bu- 
ried from  the  shipping,  and  some  of  the  most  promis- 
ing in  health,  and  prosperous  in  their  calling,  have 
this  year  been  most  unexpectedly  summoned  to  their 
account.  It  was  delightful  to  find  many  of  different 
nations,  mingling  in  the  worship  of  the  same  Lord 
over  all,  and  so  favorably  impressed  with  th*  value 
of  these  blessings,  as  to  request  that  their  respective 
ships  might  be  made  the  occasional  chapel. 

The  only  thing  necessary  to  make  the  station  one 
of  the  most  important,  in  foreign  lands,  is  a perma- 
nent and  commodious  place  of  worship,  where  the 
rules  of  etiquette,  or  want  of  space,  need  prevent  none 
from  attending ; and  where  the  chaplain  may  have 
every  advantage  in  pursuing  his  uninterrupted  labors. 

In  connection  with  the  claims  of  the  maritime 
community,  there  is  a small  population  in  Canton, 
who  for  more  than  half  the  year,  have  no  religious 
services.  With  the  paramount  object  of  gain,  and 
little  or  nothing  to  remind  them  of  their  religious  in- 
terests, it  may  readily  be  supposed  that  such  will 


CHINA. 


137 


not  prove  the  most  favorable  representatives  of  the 
Christian  world,  and  that  the  heathen  will  be  but  ill 
prepared  by  “ their  good  works  which  they  shall  be- 
hold, to  glorify  God  in  the  day  of  visitation.” 

Besides  the  regular  morning  worship,  a service 
was  established  in  the  evening  of  the  Lord’s  day,  at 
Which  a large  and  attentive  concourse  were  gen- 
erally present. 

But  the  subject  of  the  greatest  interest,  connected 
with  this  scene  of  exertion,  is  the  conversion  of  China 
unto  him  from  whom  she  has  revolted.  Here  is  an 
object  indeed,  whose  magnitude  beggars  description. 
The  salvation  of  a whole  empire — ^the  most  impor- 
tant empire  upon  earth,  itself  more  extensive  than  all 
Europe,  and  containing  at  least  one  third  of  earth’s 
entire  population.  Look  where  we  may  beneath 
the  wide  expanse  of  the  heavens,  we  can  find  no 
distinct  enterprise  so  laudable,  so  imperious,  so  incon- 
ceivable in  its  results,  as  the  conversion  of  China. 

The  real  condition  of  her  hundreds  of  millions  is 
but  little  understood.*  With  all  her  empty  boast  of 
perfection,  and  the  vapid  eulogiums  of  her  ignorant 
panegyrists,  there  is  probably  no  other  space  upon 
earth  so  filled  with  real  wretchedness  as  China.  Her 
mild  patriarchal  government,  is  a system  of  injustice 
and  oppression.  From  the  “ Dragon  throne,”  to 

* The  most  authentic  census,  taken  in  1812,  gave  a population 
of  upwards  of  three  hundred  and  sixty  millions, 

12* 


138 


CHINA. 


the  lowest  menial  in  authority,  self-aggrandizement 
is  the  reigning  passion,  extortion  and  cruelty  the 
means  of  its  gratification.  Her  plebeian  happiness  is 
the  combined  result  of  poverty,  virtual  slavery  and 
vice.  Those  who  have  had  the  best  opportunities 
of  judging,  give  the  most  painful  description  of  the 
indigence  and  depravity  of  the  populace.  The  mid- 
dling class,  or  those  who  enjoy  a competence,  is  a small 
minority,  and  they  too  are  often  dealt  with,  without 
justice  or  mercy,  and  if  capable,  are  quite  as  unjust 
and  merciless.  Even  the  appearance  of  happiness 
which  captivates  the  stranger,  must  be  mere  show, 
for  consisting  as  it  does  in  earthly  possessions,  there  is 
very  little  in  the  laws,  or  their  corrupt  administration, 
to  give  it  basis  of  perpetuity. 

It  is  true  their  literature  is  extensive : but  how 
far  it  is  calculated  to  elevate  their  character  or  meho- 
rate  their  condition,  may  be  determined  by  the  fact, 
that  scarcely  a subject  of  which  they  treat  is  under- 
stood, while  the  most  important  truths,  the  only  ones 
which  can  improve  the  moral  character  of  man,  are 
totally  unknown.* 

Thus  the  conversion  of  China,  with  all  the  bless- 
ings attendant  upon  Christianity,  becomes  an  object 

* Their  philosophy,  history,  poetry,  are  so  mixed  up  with  the 
marvellous  and  absurd,  that  with  the  exception  of  the  maxims  of 
their  sages,  some  of  which  are  excellent,  there  is  nothing  worth 
exploring  in  the  whole  field  of  their  science. 


CHINA. 


139 


of  worldly  philanthropy,  as  well  as  of  Christian  be- 
nevolence. None  whose  heart  is  not  adamant  can 
gaze  upon  this  scene  of  distress  without  emotion. 

But  how  infinitely  vast — how  worthy  of  all  sacri- 
fice— all  hazard — all  experiment — does  the  moral  ele- 
vation of  this  nation  appear,  when  viewed  in  its  con- 
nection with  the  Redeemer’s  glory.  Here  is  a tri- 
umph and  a trophy  for  His  victorious  grace — a gem, 
the  purest  and  brightest  which  earth  can  offer  to 
deck  His  mediatorial  crown ! With  the  eye  of  this 
gracious  Being  upon  us,  and  his  heart  upon  the  sal- 
vation of  those  who  have  been  promised  Him,  as 
His  inheritance,  what  can  express  our  gratitude — 
evince  our  discipleship — or  display  our  allegiance  and 
love — if  the  conversion  of  China  be  not  in  our  prayers 
and  plans  and  utmost  endeavors. 

For  the  present  accomplishment  of  this  under- 
taking, much,  very  much,  may  be  done. 

" Faith,  mighty  faith,  the  promise  sees, 

Relies  on  that  alone  ; 

Laughs  at  impossibilities. 

And  says  it  shall  be  done.” 

/IVIissionaries  should  be  sent"  forth  to  every  accessible 
place  in  the  empire,  and  to  every  mart  of  her  com- 
merce in  the  circumjacent  sea^'  The  coasts  should 
be  invaded,  and  the  seaports  entered,  as  they  have 
been,  and  still  are,  by  the  undaunted  genius  of  com- 
merce. Every  opening  should  be  searched  out— every 


140 


CHINA. 


tenable  post  occupied — every  lawful  engagement 
subordinated — every  passport  possessed.  Others  have 
entered,  and  gained  their  respective  objects.  Pagans, 
Jews,  Mahommetans,  Catholics,  nominal  Protestants, 
all  have  penetrated  but  those  who  were  alone  capable 
of  benefiting  the  nation,  and  the  only  ones  command- 
ed to  hazard  their  lives  m the  attempt.* 

There  is  probably  no  other  Pagan  country  in  the 
world,  which  holds  out  to  us  such  facilities  of  operation 
as  China.  Energy  of  mind  and  body  is  a national  cha- 
racteristic. They  are  extremely  inquisitive — patient 
in  research — fond  of  literature — free  from  the  shackles 

• The  interesting  voyages  of  Gutzlaff,  along  the  coast  of  China, 
made  after  the  writer  left  Canton,  have  brought  to  light  a number 
of  the  most  important  facts,  and  placed  China  in  an  aspect  in  which 
Christians  never  beheld  her  before.  Contrary  to  received  opinions, 
they  have  shown  that  the  natives  are  fond  of  intercourse  with 
foreigners — that  no  barriers  need  prevent  this  intercourse — that  the 
Chinese  have  a high  opinion  of  our  medical  skill,  and  receive  Chris- 
tian books  with  the  utmost  avidity.  These  voyages,  in  connection 
with  previous  information,  lead  us  to  suppose  there  are  four  direct 
ways  of  influencing  China  : occupying  the  ports  of  commerce  in 
the  empire,  accessible  to  all;  sending  ships  along  the  coasts  freight- 
ed with  Christian  publications ; establishing  mission  stations,  at 
first  where  the  vessels  touch  in  the  maritime  cities  and  the  adjacent 
islands ; and  having  the  marts  to  which  the  Chinese  trade,  in  the 
neighboring  kingdoms  and  islands,  well  supplied  with  missionaries 
and  pious  physicians.  In  the  last  mentioned  stations,  experiment 
has  proved  that  the  missionary  becomes  known  both  to  those  whom 
he  meets  abroad  and  their  friends  at  home  ; his  disinterested  unpo- 
litical object  is  proved  and  approved,  and  his  way  thus  prepared  to 
enter  and  dwell  among  them. 


CHINA. 


141 


of  caste,  and  comparatively  but  little  wedded  to  their 
sptems  of  religion.  These  qualities,  added  to  their 
knowledge  of  their  language,  and  the  fact  that  the 
Bible,  and  some  scores  of  excellent  works  have  been 
translated  and  written  in  their  own  character,  afford 
the  greatest  encouragement  to  pray  with  expectation, 
and  labor  with  confidence  for  their  spiritual  welfare. 

But  alas  ! if  there  were  highways  opened  through 
every  part  of  the  empire,  there  are  none  “ shod  with 
the  preparation  of  the  Gospel  of  peace”  to  travel  them. 
The  few  missionaries  whom  all  Christendom  have 
made  out  to  send  to  China,  are  by  no  means  equal  to 
the  duties  of  their  own  stations.  Those  who  have  not 
been  toiling  for  years  at  the  language,  are  not  quali- 
fied for  such  an  undertaking ; and  the  Christian  world 
appear  still  to  slumber  over  the  claims  and  calls  of 
these  perishing  millions.  Even  admitting  all  that  has 
been  imagined — that  the  empire  is  barred  and  sealed 
against  foreigners — still  there  is  freiparatory  work 
enough  for  hosts  of  laborers,  and  work  which  must  be 
done,  though  the  Emperor  and  every  subject  in  his 
realm  should  unite  their  voices  in  imploring  our  aid. 

The  language  is  to  be  acquired  before  any  thing 
can  be  attempted  ; and  they  who  can  give  the  greatest 
number  of  years,  or  scores  of  years,  to  its  acquisition, 
are  the  best  prepared  to  employ  it  to  advantage.  The 
armory  for  this  holy  warfare  is  to  be  examined  and 
replenished.  Though  much  has  been  done,  like  every 


142 


CHINA. 


first  attempt,  it  is  imperfectly  done,  and  requires  repairs ; 
it  is  but  partially  done,  and  demands  an  increased  sup- 
ply. Here,  then,  is  a work,  which'  can  scarcely  be 
completed  before,  according  to  the  dullest  faith,  there 
must  be  a change  favorable  to  the  introduction  and 
propagation  of  Christianity  in  these  regions. 

So  that,  on  any  supposition,  missionaries  ought  to 
be  on  the  ground — quahfying  themselves  fop  labor, 
and  preparing  the  means,  by  which  they  are  to  labor — 
availing:  themselves  of  all  the  facilities  which  exist, 
and  watching  every  providential  opening  which  may 
be  presented.* 

* As  the  Chinese  are  a reading  and  reflecting  people,  it  appears 
exceedingly  important  that  they  should  be  made  acquainted  with 
many  of  those  branches  of  general  literature,  which  are  the  most 
useful.  Of  the  history  of  other  nations,  and  the  geography  of 
other  countries,  the  most  of  the  nation  are  grossly  ignorant.  China, 
according  to  their  ideas,  is  the  centre,  and  well  nigh  the  sum  of  the 
world — the  focus  "of  all  intellectual  and  moral  light — not  simply 
the  glory  of  earth,  but  the  counterpart  of  heaven.  It  is  scarcely 
necessary  to  mention,  that  the  tendency  of  such  sentiments  is  fatal 
to  the  introduction  of  every  external  influence,  and  that  until  cor- 
rect information  be  translated  into  their  language,  on  the  most  obvi- 
ous as  well  as  sublime  subjects,  this  haughty  contempt  of  foreign 
attainments  and  customs  will  probably  continue,  at  least  among  the 
learned.  If  works  on  all  important  subjects  were  sent  forth  in  every 
possible  form,  through  the  empire,  the  good  eflfected  would,  in  all 
probability,  be  incalculable. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 

Having  received  an  invitation  from  Capt.  Drum- 
mond to  accompany  him  in  the  H.  C.  ship  Castle 
Huntley,  to  Java,  where  he  understood  I was  going, 
we  left  Canton  at  midnight  of  December  28th,  and 
proceeded  in  a large  “ chop  boat”  to  the  ship,  lying 
below  the  second  bar.  The  Caistle  Huntley,  though 
rather  inferior  in  dimensions  to  some  of  the  vessels 
in  the  same  service,  exceeds  thirteen  hundred  tons 
in  measurement,  carries  twenty-six  guns,  and  one 
hundred  and  forty  men.  Every  ship  of  this  kind 
affords  scope  for  the  most  zealous  chaplain  ; and  if,  as 
in  the  present  instance,  favored  with  the  advice,  the 
co-operation,  and  the  prayers  of  the  commander,  the 
prospect  of  success  is  highly  animating.  Whenever 
the  weather  admitted,  we  had  divine  service,  every 
Sabbath  morning,  on  deck,  and  every  evening  in  the 
cuddy.  A part  of  almost  each  day  was  spent  in  the 
gun  deck,  among  the  crew,  visiting  the  sick,  instructing 
the  ignorant,  and  exhorting  all  “ to  repent  and  believe.” 
Having  never  been  brought  in  such  constant  con- 


144 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


tact  with  a large  number  of  sailors,  I had  an  excellent 
opportunity  to  test  and  correct  my  previous  opinions, 
respecting  the  best  mode  of  profitable  intercourse  with 
them  on  ship  board. 

A sailor,  as  all  the  world  knows,  is  a strange  being. 
Bluntness  is  one  characteristic,  and  bluntness,  mingled 
with  an  earnest  seriousness,  ipust  be  employed  to  meet 
it.  No  time  need  be  spent  in  any  conversation  pre- 
liminary to  the  subject  of  personal  religion.  It  is  a 
waste  of  health,  and  generally  leads  to  such  remarks 
or  complaints  from  them,  sis  will  tend  to  defeat  your 
object,  rather  than  promote  it. 

Disrespect,  where  there  is  no  restraint  upon  them, 
and  frequently  a shocking  oath,  or  a loud  avowal  of 
their  contempt  of  your  presence  and  purpose,  are  at 
first  employed  by  a few  of  the  more  hardy  spirits,  to 
show  to  their  shipmates  their  manly  superiority  to 
religious  scruples — and  probably  to  prevent  you  from 
intruding  into  their  retirement,  or  disturbing  their 
consciences.  This,  however,  is  seldom  repeated,  if  the 
case  be  properly  managed  at  the  time.  Let  them  see 
that  you  are  dauntless — that  all  such  obstacles,  in-> 
stead  of  siibduing,  only  animate  you — instead  of  irri- 
tating, only  soften  your  spirit  into  the  deeper  compas- 
sion— that  you  regard  their  salvation  of  infinite 
importance,  and  could  weep,  if  not  too  much  shocked, 
at  the  enormity  of  their  crimes,  and  the  inuninence 
of  their  danger,  and  you  will  generally  find  these 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


145 


bravadoes  among  the  most  deferential  and  docile  in 
future.  If  the  challenge  or  oath  is  as  evidently  in- 
tended for  your  ears,  as  for  their  companions,  “ rebuke 
them  before  all,”  showing  at  the  same  time,  that  you 
have  no  wish  to  retaliate,  or  simply  to  put  them  to 
shame ; but  to  expose  the  exceeding  guilt  and  mad- 
ness of  such  unprovoked  rebellion  against  God. 

If  you  can  make  a sailor  feel  that  nothing  but  ig- 
norance, as  wilful  as  it  is  profound,  can  admit  of  their 
usual  wickedness  and  indifference  to  duty,  and  that 
you  have  no  secular  object  to  gain  from  exhorting  or 
instructing  him,  you  have  generally  an  acknowledged 
claim  upon  his  ear,  and  a passport  to  his  heart.  When 
these  first  difficulties,  which  are  the  most  appalling  to 
those  unaccustomed  to  exertion  among  seamen,  are 
mastered,  the  peculiarities  of  cases,  must,  as  on  shore, 
indicate  their  own  treatment. 

Probably  no  unvarying  plan  of  systematic  effort 
on  ship-board,  can  be  adopted.  This  must  depend 
upon  the  dispositions  of  the  officers,  the  regulations  of 
the  vessel,  and,  in  a measure,  the  inclinations  of  the 
men.  Opportunities  for  private  conversation  may 
always  be  found,  or  created,  and  tracts  and  small 
practical  works  may  be  distributed,  under  almost  all 
circumstances.  Every  chaplain  to  seamen — every 
missionary  to  the  heathen — every  travelling  Chris- 
tian— should  carry  a lending  library  with  them. 

For  the  greatest  benefit  to  this  class  of  men,  we 
13 


146 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


must  look  to  those  who  labor  among  them  in  harbor. 
As  a sailor  has  no^  circumspection,  no  forecast,  others 
should  exercise  these  principles  for  him.  The  crimps 
have  long  availed  themselves  of  these  characteristic 
defects,  and  the  consequences  are  too  well  known  to 
be  detailed.  The  boarding  systems  at  home  should  be 
broken  up — of  course  through  the  effect  of  counterac- 
tion. There  must  be  such  a desperate  invasion  upon 
the  usurped  province  of  every  crimp,  as  to  leave  him 
no  means  of  subsistence,  unless  he  abandon  his  inhu- 
man traffic  in  the  souls  and  bodies  of  his  victims. 

The  immense  good  which  may,  and  must  result 
from  the  conversion  of  this  class  of  men,  is  best  appre- 
ciated by  those  who  have  resided  in  foreign  lands.  Sai- 
lors generally  prove  a most  serious  detriment  to  all 
missionary  efforts,  and  should  they  become  subjects  of 
religion  themselves,  instead  of  “ scattering  firebrands, 
arrows  and  death,”  upon  every  heathen  shore  where 
they  touch,  they  would  help  to  sow  “the  seed  of 
eternal  life,”  even  where  missionaries  have  never 
travelled. 

Among  the  crew,  was  a young  man  from  New- 
York,  whom  the  captain  pointed  out  as  quite  superior 
in  intellect  to  his  shipmates,  but  who,  on  account 
of  the  most  glaring  misconduct,  had  been  publicly 
flogged.  I had  frequent  opportunities  of  conversing 
with  him,  and  found  him  in  a frame  of  mind,  which 
appeared  favorable  to  religious  impressions.  He  desi- 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


U7 


red  to  accompany  me  in  any  capacity,  but  I did  not 
feel  myself  at  liberty  to  take  him,  neither  should  I 
have  deemed  the  step  prudent  under  any  circumstan- 
ces, with  the  uncertain  prospect  before  me.  The  cus- 
tom of  sending  boys  of  respectability  to  sea,  or  of 
allowing  them  to  follow  their  own  roving  dispositions, 
and  make  a trial  of  this  mode  of  life,  is  conamon, 
both  in  parts  of  America  and  Great  Britain. 

Having  heard  the  opinions  of  many  of  different 
nations,  and  in  all  the  capacities  of  a sea  life,  the 
writer  feels  the  more  anxious  to  echo  to  the  young 
and  uninitiated,  the  voice  of  experience  on  this  sub- 
ject. Though  this  topic  has  been  one  of  frequent 
conversation,  he  has  met  with  none  at  all  accustomed 
to  good  society,  who,  if  they  were  compelled  to  con- 
tinue this  life,  did  not  deplore  the  necessity  which 
bound  them  to  it,  and  dissuade  their  children  and 
others  from  entering  upon  it  as  a matter  of  choice. 

If  the  acquisition  of  wealth,  or  a simple  livelihood 
be  the  object,  probably  none  of  the  ordinary  pursuits 
of  life  could  prove  less  advantageous.  The  wages, 
if  not  inadequate  to  current  expenses,  are  most  scan- 
tily proportioned  to  them,  and  even  with  the  prospect 
of  a speedy  advancement,  which  few  enjoy,  and  still 
fewer  realize,  the  result  is  the  same.  The  highest 
station  to  a man  of  family,  affords  a bare  subsistence, 
and  the  liberty  of  a limited  trade,  with  which  it  is 
connected,  generally  adds  but  very  little  to  the  income. 


148 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


This,  too,  must  be  added  to  the  necessity  of  being  ab- 
sent from  his  family  more  than  three-fourtlis  of  his 
time,  deprived  of  the  comforts  and  privileges  of  shore, 
an’d  exposed  to  daily  trials,  of  which  landsmen  have 
no  conception. 

The  fact  that  so  few  captains  of  ships  amass  for- 
tunes, and  the  still  more  embarrassing  truth,  to  which 
allusion  has  been  made,  that  scarcely  any  continue 
this  line  of  life  from  choice,  are  sufficient  to  control 
the  judgments  of  all  who  are  selecting  their  worldly 
occupations,  and  have  the  advantages  of  the  wide 
continent  of  America  before  them. 

Sometimes  a seamen’s  birth  has  been  selected  for 
a voyage  or  two,  to  improve  the  morals  of  the  dissi- 
pated. Those  who  are  lawless  on  land,  are  sent  to 
sea  for  salutary  discipline ; but  here  again,  no  plan 
could  be  more  subversive  of  its  end.  The  mixed 
society,  composed  generally  of  the  lowest  class  of 
men,  gathered  from  different  nations,  and  trained  to 
different  habits — the  want  of  religion  so  prevalent 
among  seamen — the  unrestrained  licentiousness  of 
the  mass — the  triumphant  detail  of  disgraceful  con- 
duct on  shore,  embellished  by  their  own  wit,  and  set 
off  by  the  most  pithy  vitlgarisms  and  blaspjiemies 
they  have  ever  heard — usually  prove  as  fatal  to  every 
correct  moral  sentiment,  as  the  tar,  and  grease,  and 
dirt,  the  element  of  the  forecastle,  to  all  ideas  of 
refinement  and  delicacy. 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


149 


To  these  general  facts,  it  is  pleasing  to  know 
there  are  exceptions.  Wealth  and  piety  have  been 
acquired  at  sea,  and  the  latter  is  occasionally  found 
among  sailors ; but  alas ! the  want  of  each,  if  not 
their  opposites,  are  too  common  to  encourage  the  ha- 
zardous experiment. 

A few  days  after  leaving  China,  we  made  the 
coast  of  Cochin-China,  and  saw  as  its  most  promi- 
nent object  something  in  appearance  like  a pagoda, 
towering  on  the  summit  of  a high  hill.  The  distance 
was  too  great  to  define  the  object,  though  we  have 
since  learned,  it  is  a rock  of  this  curious  formation. 

Cochin-China  is  a kingdom  of  considerable  im- 
portance. Including  Tonquin,  and  part  of  Cambojia, 
which  are  now  annexed  to  it,  it  covers  a large  extent 
of  country  and  contains  a hardy,  energetic  popula- 
tion. The  Chinese  language  is  well  understood  by 
the  inhabitants  of  Annam — the  native  appellation  of 
their  own  country — although  they  employ  another 
character,  in  common  intercourse,  which  bears  affini- 
ty to  the  ancient  Chinese,  or  seal  character.  The 
Catholics  have  long  had  a foot-hold  in  this  Idngdom. 
They  reckon  about  three  hundred  thousand  converts, 
the  great  majority  being  in  Tonquin.  Formerly  they 
were  high  in  favor  at  court,  but  upon  the  death  of 
the  king,  whom  the  bishop  of  Adran  brought  over 
to  France  for  education,  their  influence  diminished, 
and  recently  they  have  suffered  severe  persecution. 
13* 


150 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


Those  who  have  visited  Cochin-China  for  trade, 
give  no  favorable  account  of  the  honesty  or  liberal- 
ity of  the  natives.  They  are  represented  as  rather 
cruel  and  intolerant,  disposed  to  take  advantage  of 
strangers,  and  unfriendly  to  the  admittance  and  resi- 
dence of  foreigners  among  them.  How  far  the  latter 
may  be  the  policy  of  the  government,  as  in  China, 
we  can  only  conjecture — but  that  many  of  those 
traits  of  character,  which  render  them  peculiarly  of- 
fensive to  Protestant  strangers,  are  produced,  at  least 
strengthened,  by  the  intolerant  spirit  of  Catholicism, 
there  is  strong  reason  to  believe.  The  nation  may 
be  influenced  and  approached  through  Siam,  or  Cam- 
bojia ; or  it  might  be  benefitted  by  more  direct  means. 
The  possibility  of  the  latter  can  be  known  only 
through  the  visit  of  a trading  ship. 

We  spent  two  days  in  procuring  water  and  fuel, 
on  the  coast  of  Sumatra.  During  this  time  the 
passengers  and  ofiicers  amused  themselves  on  shore, 
in  walking,  shooting,  picking  shells,  <fcc.  With 
the  exception  of  a few  temporary  huts,  without  in- 
habitant, there  was  not  a human  vestige  to  be  seen. 
Traces  of  elephants  and  deer,  with  an  abundance  of 
snipe  and  quails,  proclaimed  the  wildness  of  the  re- 
srion ; while  swarms  of  most  voracious  and  adhesive 
insects  furnished  a sufficient  reason  for  the  absence  of 
man.  It  was  rather  remarkable  that  though  nothing 
which  indicated  the  presence  of  human  beings  could 


PASSAGE  TO  JAVA. 


151 


be  discovered,  yet  the  last  boat  had  scarcely  put  off 
from  the  shore,  before  smoke  began  to  ascend,  and 
fires  to  glow,  in  the  very  place  we  had  left.  The 
next  morning  we  were  visited  by  two  or  three  small 
canoes,  manned  with  half-naked,  puny  natives,  bring- 
ing a few  fowls  to  sell  or  barter. 

A few  hours  after  leaving  Sumatra,  the  ship 
was  again  riding  at  anchor  abreast  of  Angier.  As 
soon  as  she  was  descried,  boats  were  sent  from  the 
neighboring  islands,  with  poultry,  yams,  fruit,  birds, 
monkeys,  &c.  all  in  great  abundance,  and  at  the  most 
reduced  prices. 

The  most  striking  peculiarity  of  the  natives,  is  the 
artificial  shape  and  color  of  their  teeth.  They  con- 
ceive it  a mark  of  beauty,  some  say  of  distinction  from 
the  brute  creation,  to  pass  a file  horizontally  over  the 
centre  of  the  front  teeth,  giving  them  the  form  of  a 
crescent,  and  then  to  stain  them  with  a vegetable  pre- 
paration, which  often  renders  them  as  black  as  jet. 
The  appearance  is  rather  disgusting  to  a stranger,  and 
the  disagreeable  effect  is  not  diminished  by  the  general 
custom  among  both  sexes,  of  cramming  their  mouths 
with  betel,  cere,  and  tobacco— the  latter  of  which  is 
left  to  protrude  beyond  the  lips.  This  mixture,  as 
might  be  supposed,  produces  an  action  of  the  salivary 
glands,  and  the  vicinity  of  their  persons  show  that 
they  are  regardless  of  the  delicacy  of  any  who  may 
be  near  them. 


/ 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


JAVA. 

Angier  is  the  point  of  Java,  where  ships  in  the 
favorable  monsoons  pass,  and  generally  call  for  sup- 
plies of  water  and  provisions.  It  is  situated  on  a 
large  plain,  adorned  with  extensive  groves  of  cocoa- 
nuts,  and  flanked  by  an  amphitheatre  of  the  most  di- 
versified, and  picturesque  hills.  The  luxuriance  of 
the  verdure  mantling  every  part  of  the  plain,  and 
decking  the  sloping  sides  and  the  summits  of  the 
highlands — with  a charming  variety  of  lofty  forests, 
and  spreading  fields,  produces  the  most  favorable  im- 
pression of  the  fertility  and  beauty,  for  which  the  island 
is  famed.*  A small  fort,  a Bungalo  or  two,  and  a 
native  village  stand  in  close  vicinity,  near  the  shore. 
As  there  is  no  public  house  in  the  place,  I went  im- 
mediately to  the  residence  of  one  of  the  Dutch  gen- 
tlemen, to  whom  I had  letters,  and  who  received  me 
with  much  kindness. 

*■  I saw  it  twice,  once  during  the  rainy  season,  afterwards  in  fine 
weather,  and  it  scarcely  appeared  like  the  same  place. 


154 


JAVA. 


Supposing  that  I was  anxious  to  proceed  to 
Batavia,  without  delay,  and  being  unable  to  pro- 
vide a carriage  immediately,  arrangements  were 
made  to  have  me  transported  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
natives,  for  the  first  twenty  miles.  The  idea  of  being 
carried  such  a distance,  in  a confined  chair,  over 
bad  roads,  and  through  almost  incessant  showers, 
would  not  have  been  agreeable,  even  had  I known 
the  native  language,  been  familiar  with  the  way,  and 
acquainted  with  the  persons  on  whose  hospitality,  or 
perhaps  toleration,  I was  obliged  to  impose  myself  for 
the  night.  As  my  kind  host  had  made  every  prepa- 
ration, under  the  evident  impression  that  I could  not 
delay,  and  there  appeared  no  alternative  to  a speedy 
departure,  at  least  without  violating  all  the  rules  of 
politeness,  I was  on  the  point  of  taking  my  position 
in  the  vehicle — which  from  its  structure  must  have 
been  recumbent,  when  the  crack  of  a whip,  and  the 
rattling  of  wheels,  announced  the^ approach  of  a more 
comfortable  conveyance.  It  proved  to  be  a govern- 
ment coach,  which  was  hired  to  travellers,  and  which 
would  be  ready  the  next  day  to  convey  me  to  Ba- 
tavia. 

I was  struck  with  the  timely  interposition  of  Pro- 
vidence, and  the  more  so,  as  I had  scarcely  dismissed 
from  my  mind  the  recollection  of  similar  circumstan- 
ces, when  the  most  seasonable  and  unexpected  relief 
was  experienced,  and  when  comfort,  rather  than  we- 


JAVA. 


155 


cessity,  appeared  to  be  consulted.  It  is  but  one  favo- 
rable incident  of  a series,  which  connect  the  hours  of 
earliest  remembrance  with  the  present  moment,  many 
of  which  have  been  too  special  ever  to  be  forgotten. 

January  20,  Batavia. — As  the  arrangements  were 
not  made  as  early  as  was  at  first  expected,  I remamed 
at  Angier  until  yesterday  morning.  About  seven,  a.  m. 
we  started  with  the  expectation  of  proceeding  forty 
miles,  being  half  the  distance,  and  leaving  the  rest  of 
the  journey  for  the  light  of  the  following  day.  Ac- 
cording to  the  custom  of  driving  the  public  convey- 
ances in  Java,  we  started  on  the  jump,  changed  horses 
every  six  miles,  and  notwithstanding  such  a state  of 
roads  as  fixed  us  in  the  mud  two  or  three  times,  ac- 
complished the  day’s  journey  by  about  two,  p,  m. 

The  face  of  the  country  was  considerably  varied  ‘ 
with  hill  and  dale,  wildness  and  cultivation.  All  the 
low  and  level  tracts  of  land  were  devoted  to  the  cul- 
ture of  rice,  and  some  of  these  fields  extended  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  Li  almost  every  part  of  the 
way,  the  natives  of  both  sexes  were  laboriously  en- 
gaged, tilling  the  land  with  buffaloes,  and  transplant- 
ing the  young  grain  from  its  original  bed.  Such  had 
been  the  abundance  of  rain  since  the  wet  season 
commenced,  that  all  the  low  grounds  were  sub- 
merged, and  the  laborer  was  obliged  to  wade,  often 
to  an  inconvenient  depth,  in  fulfilling  his  task. 

We  passed  a number  of  villages,  situated  on  the 


156 


JAVA. 


elevated  ridges  of  land,  and  as  far  as  could  be  disco- 
vered, (foe  they  are  generally  concealed  in  clusters  of 
trees.)  presenting  a group  of  miserable  huts,  scarcely 
sufficient  to  shelter  their  occupants  from  the  rain,  pro- 
tect them  from  beasts  of  prey,  and  contain  their  neces- 
sary supply  of  provisions.  In  several  places  along  the 
road,  sheds  were  erected  for  market-places,  where  the 
natives  assemble  for  traffic.  In  one  of  them,  probably 
two  or  three  thousand  were  collected.  What  a congre- 
gation for  the  Christian  Teacher  ! In  fact,  every  thing 
indicated  a dense  population,  and  seemed  to  invite  the 
missionary  to  come  and  be  the  instrument  of  raising 
them  from  their  mental  and  spiritual  degradation. 

Tlie  house  at  which  I stopped  stands  some  distance 
from  the  main  road,  on  an  estate  of  more  than  sixty 
square  miles,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  furious  beasts  and 
elegant  birds.  Tigers  of  the  most  dangerous  descrip- 
tion, infest  the  country,  and  carry  away  even  the  na- 
tives, while  the  woods  are  enUvened  by  flocks  of  the 
majestic  and  beautiful  peacock.  The  manager  of  the 
estate  received  and  entertained  me  with  much  hospi- 
tality. The  principal  object  of  curiosity  which  I saw 
in  accompanying  him  over  part  of  the  estate,  was  a 
large  petrified  tree,  imbedded  in  a few  feet  of  soil. 

About  seven  this  morning,  we  left  the  estate,  and 
continued  the  journey  with  a dispatch  proportioned  to 
the  speed  and  manageableness  of  the  ponies.  From 
this  place,  the  country  began  to  assume  an  aspect  of 


JAVA. 


157 


less  wildness,  which  increased  as  we  approached. 
Batavia,  and  with  the  exception  of  comfortable 
dwellings,  reminded  me  forcibly  of  familiar  objects 
at  home. 

The  first  appearance  of  Batavia  was  a group  of 
houses,  extending  some  distance  along  the  road,  and 
occupied  by  Chinamen.  They  were  all  surrounded 
with  water,  many  of  them  too  deep  to  be  tenantable, 
while  the  inhabitants  were  obliged  to  move  about  in 
boats,  or  dash  along  at  a depth  which  admitted  of  but  a 
slow  progress.  This  spot  proved  to  be  below  the  gene- 
ral level  of  the  country,  and  we  were  happy,  after 
riding  some  distance  at  a most  tardy  pace,  to  emerge 
from  the  flood,  and  pursue  our  way  on  dry  land.  The 
horses  were  urged  forward  at  their  usual  gait,  through 
streets  consisting  of  Chinese  houses,  with  a canal  of 
running  water  on  one  side,  until  we  left  the  precincts 
of  the  old  town — where  death  formerly  reigned  with 
such  awful  sway,  and  entered  the  vicinity  of  Euro- 
pean dwellings.  The  canal  still  bordered  the  way, 
while  handsome  residences,  with  courts  in  front,  lined 
the  opposite  side.  One  of  these  proved  to  be  the  hotel, 
at  which  the  carriage  stopped  about  three,  p.  m. 

As  the  day  was  not  sufficiently  advanced  to  allow 
the  remnant  to  be  wasted,  I procured  a conveyance, 
and  called  on  Mr.  Medhurst,  the  English  missionary, 
by  whom  I was-  received  with  the  cordiality  and  kind- 
ness of  a brother  in  the  spirit  and  labors  of  the  Gospel. 
To  avoid  the  malaria  and  heat  of  the  town,  the  resi- 
14 


158 


JAVA. 


dents  have  built  their  dwellings  over  a large  plain, 
which  extends  some  distance  in  the  interior,  and  is 
intersected  by  the  finest  roads. 

January  24. — Yesterday,  (Sabbath,)  attended  three 
services  in  the  mission  chapel — two  in  English,  and 
one  in  Malay.  It  is  the  custom  of  Mr.  M.  to  have 
another  service  for  those  who  speak  the  native  lan- 
guage in  town,  and  frequently  in  one  of  the  prisons, 
so  that  the  day  is  filled  up  with  active  exertions.  He 
is  assisted  by  Mr.  William  Young,  a young  man  who 
is  capable  of  holding  service  in  Malay,  understands 
much  of  Chinese,  and  by  his  abilities  and  zeal  in  his.- 
Master’s  service,  renders  himself  a valuable  acquisi- 
tion to  the  mission.  There  is  another  young  person 
connected  mth  the  mission,  a native  Amboynese,  who 
appears  to  have  been  truly  converted  unto  God  within 
the  last  year. 

Java,  as  one  of  the  most  important  colonial  pos- 
sessions attached  to  any  European  crown,  is  well 
known.  More  than  two  centuries  have  passed  away 
since  the  Dutch  became  masters  of  some  of  its  best 
districts,  and  during  all  this  time  it  has  been  in  the 
hands  of  nations  professing  Protestanism.  Like  the 
other  possessions  of  the^utch,  it  has  received  its 
share  of  chaplains  ; but  compared  with  the  active  zeal 
displayed  in  enlightening  the  natives  of  some  of  the 
other  islands,  scarcely  any  attempts  appear  to  have 
been  made  for  the  conversion  of  Java. 

“ The  island,”  according  to  one  who  resides  there, 


JAVA. 


159 


and  has  long  had  the  best  opportunities  of  obtaining 
the  most  correct  information,  “ contains  a population 
of  six  millions — four  of  whom  speak  the  Javanese 
language,  one  and  a half  the  Sunda,  and  half  a million 
the  Malayan.  Its  three  principal  towns  are  Batavia, 
Samarang,  and  Soerabaya.  Batavia  contains,  within 
a circuit  of  twenty  miles,  three  hundred  thousand 
souls,  of  whom  thirty  thousand  are  Chinese.  Sama- 
rang has  about  two  hundred  thousand  natives  and 
ten  thousand  Chinese,  and  Soerabaya  about  three 
hundred  thousand  natives  and  five  thousand  Chinese. 
There  are,  besides,  about  ten  thousand  Chinese  scat- 
tered about  in  various  parts  of  the  island.  These 
three  principal  towns  are  frequently  visited  by  stran- 
gers, and  no  foreigners,  who  have  not  excited  the  dis- 
pleasure of  government,  have  been  refused  permission 
to  reside  in  them. 

“ The  Dutch  systematically  avoid  establishing  mis- 
sions among  Mahommetans,  and  endeavor  to  thrust 
their  missionaries  away,  into  bye  places,  as  much  as 
possible.  Hence  on  the  whole  island  of  Java,  en- 
tirely under  their  own  dominion,  they  have  not  a 
single  missionary.  Formerl^’^,  two  missionaries  were 
stationed  at  Christian  villages,  but  with  the  exclusive 
object  of  ministering  to  those  who  already  professed 
Christianity.  These  are  both  dead.* 

• “ It  may  here  be  observed,  that  the  missionaries  formerly  sent 
out  by  the  Dutch  Society  were  illiterate  men,  which,  added  to  the 


160 


JAVA. 


“ The  two  missionaries  on  the  island  are  stationed 
at  Batavia  and  Soerabaya.  The  first  has  been  allowed 
to  become  a burgher,  which  entitles  him  to  the  right 
of  residence,  the  permanent  tenure  of  property,  and 
the  liberty  of  travelling  through  any  part  of  the  colony. 
He  has  never  experienced  the  least  hindrance  from 
government  in  the  prosecution  of  his  work.  The 
other  missionary  has  not  been  so  much  favored.  The 
authorities  interfered  in  the  midst  of  a most  interest- 
ing work,  and  his  testajaients  and  tracts,  which  the 
eager  natives  flocked  in  thousands  to  receive,  were  all 
seized.  At  Soerabaya,  some  good  people  have  formed 
themselves  into  an  auxiliary  missionary  society,  esta- 
blished a school  for  heathen  children,  and  exerted 
themselves  in  preparing  and  distributing  tracts  among 
the  natives.  They  have  done  much,  and  would  efiect 
more  if  a missionary  resided  among  them. 

“ There  is  an  opening  for  missionaries  at  Batavia, 
Samarang,  and  Soerabaya : every  facility  would  be 
afforded  by  their  brethren,  in  two  of  these  settlements. 
What  respects  residence,  assistance  in  the  native  lan- 
guages, books,  and  advice,  would  be  most  freely  giv- 
en.” The  New  Testament  and  other  books  have  been 

general  prejudice  against  missionary  efforts,  tended  to  bring  their 
office  into  contempt.  Since  that,  the  character  and  qualifica- 
tions of  their  missionaries  have  greatly  improved,  but  the  pre- 
judice still  continues  strong  against  them,  and  it  seems  indigenous 
to  a Dutchman’s  mind  to  consider  a missionary  as  vastly  inferior 
to  a settled  minister.” 


JAVA. 


161 


translated  into  the  Javanese,  which,  with  the  niims- 
rous  Christian  works  printed  in  the  Malay  and  Chi- 
nese languages,  afford  the  greatest  advantages  for  af- 
fecting immediate  good. 

The  writer  having  accepted  the  kind  invitation  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Medhurst,  to  take  up  his  residence  with 
them,  devoted  his  time  principally  in  accompanying 
the  missionary  in  his  daily  labors  among  the  heathen, 
and  in  studying  the  most  current  dialect  of  the  Chi- 
nese language  in  their  foreign  settlement.  A journal  of 
events,  kept  at  the  time,  has  already  been  published.  A 
few  extracts  will  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  nature 
of  the  field,  and  the  necessity  of  aid  in  its  cultivation. 

January  26th. — Spent  part  of  this  morning  among 
the  Chinese  residences  in  town.  Mr.  M.  generally 
devotes  a portion  of  every  day  to  visiting  the  natives 
and  Chinese,  for  the  purposes  of  conversing  and  dis- 
tributing tracts.  In  every  house  where  there  appears 
to  be  a probability  of  engaging  the  occupants  in  con- 
versation, he  enters — sometimes  by  invitation — gene- 
rally “ sans  ceremonie.” 

The  Chinese  sense  of  politeness  is  such,  as  always 
to  secure  him  a reception  sufficient  for  his  purpose. 
To  the  dwellings  of  the  Malays  there  is  not  the  same 
liberty  of  access.  When  trading,  eating,  or  gambling — 
to  the  last  of  which  the  natives  of  China  are  as  noto- 
riously addicted  abroad  as  at  home— it  is  next  to  im- 
14* 


162 


JAVA. 


I 


possible  to  divert  their  attention.  Under  other  circum- 
stances, they  frequently  listen  with  apparent  interest, 
and  receive  the  tracts  readily. 

February  4th. — In  our  usual  round,  we  visited  a 
hospital  to-day,  where  the  leprous,  blind,  and  deranged, 
are  kept.  Of  the  former  class,  were  some  of  the  most 
miserable  objects  I ever  beheld.  Unable  to  leave  their 
couch,  Nvith  limbs  partially  consumed,  withered,  and 
covered  with  a loathsome  ulceration,  they  were  pecu- 
liarly calculated  to  impress  the  mind  with  a sense  of 
the  more  deplorable,  and,  by  human  means,  equally 
incurable  malady  of  the  heart,  of  which  this  dread- 
ful infliction  is  an  emblem,  and  was  a punishment. 
“ Who  maketh  thee  to  difier  from  another  7” 

One  of  them  mentioned  to  Mr.  Medhurst  that  he 
believed  his  disease  was  the  punishment  of  sin,  in  a 
former  life,  according  to  their  notions  of  the  metem- 
phsychosis;  and  when  referred  to  the  demerit  of  guilt  in 
the  present  existence,  as  a more  plausible,  and  an  ade- 
quate reason,  pointed  most  significantly  in  reply,  to  a 
youth  of  but  twelve  years  of  age,  who  was  a much 
greater  sufferer,  and  on  M.’s  presumption  a less  guilty 
sinner  than  himself.  Among  the  blind,  was  quite  a 
youth,  who  could  not  determine  why  he  should  be 
thus  severely  visited,  since  he  had  once  saved  the  life 
of  a fellow  being,  at  the  hazard  of  his  own.  Self- 
righteousness  with  its  consequence — a disposition  to 


JAVA. 


163 


murmur  against  the  afflictive  dispensations  of  Provi- 
dence, alas,  how  prevalent  in  every  country ! 

Medhurst  frequently  avails  himself  of  the  moral  pre- 
cepts of  their  sages,  as  an  admitted  rule  of  conduct,  and 
then,  upon  their  confessions  of  guilt,  declares  the  only 
way  in  which  God  can  be  just,  and  the  sinner  justified, 

February  5th. — Have  just  returned  from  an  in- 
teresting visit  to  one  of  the  bazaars ; about  two  or 
three  thousand  natives  and  Chinese  were  collected. 
The  latter  compose  the  great  majority  of  tradesmen 
in  Batavia,  being  more  ingenious,  active,  shrewd,  and 
gain-seeking  than  the  natives.  Wherever  money  is 
to  be  made  by  dint  of  trafflc,  manufacture,  gambling 
or  gulling,  Chinamen  are  sure  to  be  found.  Acquaint- 
ed from  long  experience,  with  the  best  mode  of  gaining 
his  object,  M.  went  directly  to  a part  of  the  market, 
where  the  men  generally  resort  after  their  most 
important  business  is  finished,  to  purchase  as  much 
tobacco  as  they  require  before  the  next  market-day. 
The  anxieties  of  trade  have  so  far  subsided  before 
they  reach  this  place,  as  to  render  it  much  less  diffi- 
cult to  secure  their  attention  to  an  object,  which  yields 
no  immediate  palpable  advantage.  His  success  in 
gaining  their  audience,  and  in  awakening  a desire  to 
obtain  books,  was  truly  animating.  In  a very  short 
time  his  budget  of  tracts — many  of  them  of  a large 
size,  as  the  Gospel  of  Matthew,  had  entirely  disap- 
peared. 


164 


JAVA. 


What  is  remarkable,  and  very  encouraging  is 
the  surprising  change  evinced  in  the  disposition 
of  the  natives  within  the  last  year.  Until  this  re- 
cent date,  he  was  generally  obliged  to  return  with 
the  number  of  his  books  undiminished.  He  scarcely 
succeeded  in  distributing  a dozen  copies  in  as  many 
months,  on  account  of  the  influence  and  dread  of  their 
Mahommetan  priests  and  rulers.  Since  the  com- 
mencement of  this  happy,  and  as  far  as  visible  means 
are  concerned,  unaccountable  change  in  the  minds  of 
the  people,  hundreds  have  been  distributed  without 
the  least  difficulty. 

Another  fact,  full  of  promise,  connected  with  the 
reception  of  these  books,  is  the  eagerness  of  the  natives 
to  understand  their  contents,  and  the  means  they  often 
employ  to  obtain  this  knowledge.  It  is  said,  that 
those,  unacquainted  with  letters,  will  go  through  their 
.villaffes  to  have  the  books  read,  and  that  rather  than 
remain  ignorant  of  their  truths,  they  will  carry  them 
to  the  chief  men,  and  even  the  priests  themselves. 
M.  says  that  these  very  rulers  and  priests,  who  were 
formerly  so  distant  and  ill-disposed  toward  him  and 
his  poiso7i,  have  condescended  to  come  and  solicit 
Christian  books  for  their  own  perusal.  Yet  nothing 
beyond  the  simple  disposition  to  receive  and  read  these 
books,  has  thus  far  appeared.  The  valley  remains  in 
deathful  silence,  and  the  bones  are  very  dry  ; but  the 
prophet  has  entered;  “thus  saith  the  Lord  God” 


JAVA. 


165 


begins  to  be  heard,  and  we  look  and  pray  for  the  breath 
of  Jehovah  to  come  and  breathe  upon  the  slain. 

14th. — Yesterday,  (Sabbath)  beside  the  ordinary 
English  and  Malay  services  in  the  mission  chapel,  we 
visited  a large  prison  containing  about  three  hundred 
native  convicts.  The  missionary,  or  one  of  the  young 
men  who  assist  him,  liolds  service  here  every  Sabbath. 
It  was  a subject  of  considerable  anxiety  to  the  prison- 
ers, chiefly  Mahommetans.  at  the  commencement  of 
these  religious  exercises,  to  ascertain  the  precise  ob- 
ject of  the  preacher.  Some  imagined  that  the  re- 
demption to  which  he  referred,  was  deliverance  from 
chains  and  imprisonment.  Others  were  filled  with 
apprehension,  and  fancied  from  his  statements  of  the 
evil  and  demerit  of  sin,  that  they  were  forthwith  to 
be  sold  as  slaves,  and  transported  to  some  distant 
country. 

With  a few  exceptions,  they  all  assembled  beneath 
a cluster  of  large  shady  trees,  and  remained  in  a sitting 
posture,  until  the  exercises  were  closed.  The  counte- 
nances of  many  of  them  disclosed  an  interest  in  the 
subject,  which  could  not  fail  to  animate  the  speaker. 
One  of  the  prisoners  who  died  a short  time  since, 
gave  pleasing  evidence  of  the  benefit  of  these  instruc- 
tions, and  confided  his  departing  spirit  into  the  hands 
of  the  Saviour,  of  whom  he  had  heard  in  this  place  of 
confinement.  Thus  the  very  prison  may  become  the 
gate  of  heaven,  and  the  fetters  of  the  guilty,  the  ap- 


166 


JAVA. 


pointed  instrument  to  keep  them  back  from  destruc- 
tion, and  “ compel  them,  to  come  in.” 

17th. — For  nearly  a week  the  Chinese  have  been 
enjoying  their  greatest  holyday.  It  is  with  them, 
the  season  of  new  year  ; work  is  generally  suspend- 
ed— their  best  robes  are  displayed — children  are 
loaded  with  costly  ornaments,  and  carried  in  compli- 
mentary form  from  house  to  house,  while  the  best 
wishes  for  temporal  'prosperity — a long  purse  and 
life — are  interchanged.  The  tables  groan  beneath 
their  luxurious  burdens — the  gods  are  supplied  with 
every  variety  of  edible  admixtures,  and  their  faces  are 
tinged  with  the  smoke  of  tapers  and  incense.  Every 
one  yields  himself  up  to  pleasure  ; and  gambling,  the 
delight  of  the  nation,  groups  its  votaries  “in  the 
house  and  by  the  way-side.” 

When  we  enter  their  dwellings,  tea  is  generally 
handed  in  small  cups,  and  the  pipe  is  seldom  used 
before  they  offer  it  to  the  visitor. 

Here,  as_^  at  Canton,  the  most  common  figure,  be- 
fore which  they  offer  their  sacrifices,  is  the  represen- 
tative of  an  ancient  deified  hero,  called  in  the  Man- 
darin dialect,  Kwanfoctze.  He  has  been  adopted  by 
the  reigning  Tartar  family  as  their  patron  deity.  An 
imperial  proclamation  was  issued,  commanding  the 
homage  of  the  whole  empire  to  this  pretended  god 
of  war.  In  every  painting  he  appears  as  an  exceed- 
ingly gross,  ill-favored  being,  with  an  idiotical  forma- 


JAVA. 


167 


tion  of  head,  small  lengthened  eyes,  running  up  the 
forehead — brows  extending  to  an  elevation  of  nearly 
forty-five  degrees ; ears  reaching  almost  in  a line  with 
the  top  of  the  head — in  a word,  with  a forehead  not 
unlike  the  upper  part  of  a cone,  and  cheeks  and  chin 
resembling  its  extended  base.  To  this  is  added  a 
long  spare  beard,  which  he  is  stroking  in  calm  reflec- 
tion with  his  right  hand. 

Behind  his,  chair  stands  a black  figure,  said  to 
represent  an  adjutant — holding  a huge  weapon  in 
one  hand,  with  a countenance  of  deadly  rage,  as 
though  his  eyes  would  burst  from  their  swollen  sock- 
ets— and  in  an  inclining  posture,  as  if  communicating 
the  most  exasperating  intelligence  to  the  unruffled 
warrior. 

The  former,  though  the  most  common,  is  by  no 
means  the  only  image  employed  for  religious  purposes. 
A celebrated  Esculapius,  of  whose  surgical  and  magi- 
cal powers  the  most  fabulous  legends  are  preserved 
and  credited,  often  occupies  the  place  appointed  for  the 
deity,  on  the  wall  opposite  the  door  of  entrance,  and 
receives  the  adoration  of  the  household.  He  is  paint- 
ed in  the  act  of  conjuring  an  invisible  being,  with  his 
face  towards  the  heavens  and  a small  wand  in  his 
outstretched  hand,  while  a hideous  figure  answering 
to  their  idea  of  the  dragon — which  they  imagine  the 
chief  agent  in  the  kingdom  of  Providence — answers 
the  summons,  and  appears  in  the  clouds.  Other  rep- 


168 


JAVA. 


resentations  are  often  preferred,  not  unfrequently  the 
form  of  a female,  and  by  some  merely  the  Chinese 
character,  for  spirit,  happiness,  long  life,  wealth,  <fec. 
Small  images  placed  before  these  paintings  are  also 
common. 

21st. — In  our  rounds  to-day,  we  met  a China- 
man, from  the  province  of  Teo-chew,  or  Tay-chew, 
who  related  some  of  the  horrid  cruelties  practised  up- 
on the  female  infants  of  the  common  people.  He 
says  the  custom  of  infanticide  is  almost  universal 
among  this  class  of  the  community.  If  the  parent 
supposes  that  the  marriage  portion  received  for  the 
bride,  will  he  greater  than  the  expense  of  her  subsis- 
tence, she  is  allowed  to  live ; but  if  he  apprehends 
straightened  circumstances  before,  or  a failure  at  the 
time,  she  is  always  dispatched.  The  disproportion  of 
the  sexes  is  so  great,  that  in  a village  of  three  thou- 
sand men,  not  more  than  three  or  four  hundred  can 
procure  wives.  If  you  expostulate  with  them  on  their 
worse  than  brutal  cruelty,  they  reply  with  the  most 
unnatural  apathy,  “ rice  is  dear,  and  no  benefit  will 
accrue  to  us  from  raising  these  children.  As  soon  as 
they  are  married,  they  become  the  property  of  anoth- 
er, and  as  they  are  not  allowed  to  marry  relations, 
or  even  those  of  the  same  family  name,  they  join  an- 
other clan,  and  only  support  them  in  their  rivalry.” 

March  22d. — Arose  early,  and  rode  about  eighteen 
or  twenty  miles  in  the  country,  to  a village  inhabited 


JAVA. 


169 


by  natives  and  Chinese,  and  containing  a tew  Euro- 
pean dwellings.  We  selected  Tuesday,  because 
the  principal  market-day  in  the  week.  The  Amboy- 
nese  convert,  to  whom  reference  has  been  made, 
started  yesterday  afternoon,  with  about  two  hundred 
Malay  tracts,  and  as  many  Chinese.  Oi^our  arrival 
we  found  him  surrounded  by  the  natives,  and  actively 
engaged  in  his  interesting  work. 

The  scene  was  one  of  lively  interest.  Wherever 
the  teacher  took  his  station,  a crowd  resorted,  and 
listened  attentively  to  the  doctrines  of  the  gospel. 
•That  the  truth  might  be  more  widely  proclaimed, 
every  part  of  the  bazaar  was  visited,  and  in  the  course 
of  two  hours,  not  a tract  remained  in  our  posses- 
sion. 

There  was  much  of  that  melancholy  interest  on  the 
road,  which  is  felt  when  passing  through  the  deserted 
ruins  of  a once  populous  city.  Extensive  avenues  of 
trees — courts  overgrown  with  shrubbery,  and  gate- 
posts still  standing,  mark  the  situations,  where,  in 
days  of  eastern  prosperity,  large  mansions  appeared. 
Batavia  presents  many  such  relics  of  the  past  age,  im- 
pressing upon  the  mind  the  moral  of  those  changes, 
which  a thoughtless  world  dreading,  hasten  upon 
themselves.  To  many  of  the  living  it  requires  no 
stretch  of  memory,  and  to  the  young,  no  strength  of 
fancy,  to  conjure  up  the  scene  of  life  and  gaiety  in 
which  the  past  generation  figured.  Stately  buildings 

15 


a 


170 


JAVA. 


adorn  the  face  of  the  country — the  festive  halls  are 
lighted — the  giddy  throng  assemble — peals  of  exhila- 
rating music  swell  upon  the  ear,  and  for  a moment 
entrance  the  soul ; successive  nights  are  spent  in 
feasting,  and  every  species  of  amusement ; and  the 
assembly  b^aks  up,  only  to  restore  their  flagging 
powers  for  another  encounter.* 

But  there  are  other  visions  of  an  opposite  charac- 
ter, associated  in  fancy  with  the  history  of  Batavia, 
and  called  up  by  these  desolations.  The  place  is 
one  aceldema,  where  residents  and  visitors — na- 
tives and  strangers — men  of  every  country,  class,* 
and  clime,  have  found  a common  grave. 

It  must  have  required  more  than  an  ordinary 
struggle  to  debar  from  the  minds  of  the  gradually 
thinning,  and  still  assembling  votaries  of  pleasure, 
the  intruding  question,  “Who  of  us  shall  meet 
again?”  What  a strange,  unnatural  connection, 
between  the  powerful  ravages  of  death,  and  the 
thoughtless  revels  of  the  dying ! It  is  like  decking 
the  victims  of  the  monster  with  the  votive  wreath, 
and  leading  them  gaily  forth  to  the  dreaded  altar.t 

* A living  witness  informed  me  that  he  had  been  present 
when  two  hundred  were  invited,  and  where  the  revel  continued 
for  as  much  of  three  successive  days  and  nights,  as  the  powers  of 
nature  would  admit.  He  has  known  balls  with  their  luxurious  ac- 
companiments to  be  kept  up,  at  one  house,  for  three  consecutive 
nights. 

t If  from  what  has  been  ascribed  to  an  exhausting  sun  and 


JAVA. 


in 


March  25th. — Spent  an  hour  this  morning  in 
conversation  with  a niimber  of  Cochin-Chinese.  It 
was  conducted  partly  in  French,  a limited  knowledge 
of  which  they  had  acquired  from  the  Catholic  priests 
in  their  country,  partly  in  Malay,  picked  up  in  trading, 
and  partly  by  means  of  the  Chinese  writt^i  character. 
They  professed  the  Catholic  religion,  and  evinced  a 
degree  of  caution  and  bigotry,  which  had  no  doubt 
been  inspired  by  their  calculating  leaders.  To  em- 
ploy their  own  expression,  there  were  thousands  upon 
thousands  of  Catholics  in  the  country,  and  priests 
from  France,  Portugal,  Bengal  and  America;  They 
spoke  of  convents  belonging  to  different  orders  of 
monks.  It  was  quite  evident  from  their  questions 
and  remarks  that  they  had  been  apprised  of  the 
exertions  of  Protestants,  and  prepared  for  a probable 
encounter. 

A tract  was  presented  containing  nothing  obnox- 
ious to  Catholicism,  but  their  imagination  soon  fur- 
nished it  with  the  most  pernicious  doctrines,  and 
though  they  did  not  read  a single  page,  they  were 
perfectly  aware  of  its  soul-destroying  contents.  Their 
principal  objections  to  the  religion  of  the  Dutch  and 
English  were,  the  want  of  celebacy  among  the  priests, 
and  of  auricular  confession  among  the  people.  They 

pestilential  malaria,  be  deducted  the  effects  of  the  excitable  and 
irregular  living  of  the  East,  Batavia  and  other  tropical  regions 
would  be  stripped  of  many  of  those  sepulchral  associations  with 
which  they  are  now  shrouded.  , 


172 


java. 


spoke  of  the  instruction  they  had  derived  froni  cate- 
chisms— such  as  the  frequent  worship  of  “la  tres 
sainte  vierge,”  but  upon  being  asked  if  they  had  read 
the  Bible,  replied  in  Chinese,  it  was  forbidden,  disap- 
proved, adding  in  French,  “ It  is  contraband.”  One  of 
them  inquired  of  M.  how  many  disciples  he  had.  The 
indirect  feply  often  was,  that  he  deemed  something 
beyond  the  mere  profession  indispensable  to  true 
religion,  and  consequently  never  included  in  such  an 
estimate,  those  who  were  not  sincere.  “ Ah,”  said  the 
shrewd  inquirer,  “ the  fault  is  in  your  doctrines  ; if 
they  were  true,  there  would  be  no  lack  of  genuine 
disciples.”  He  was  asked  what  he  considered  true 
doctrine.  “ Oh,”  said  he  ironically,  “ your  books  are 
full  of  it.”  But  you  know  nothing  of  the  contents  of 
our  books,  and  how  are  you  qualified  to  condemn 
them.  “ I have  no  time,”  said  he,  “ to  prattle  any 
longer  with  you,”  and  waited  only  long  enough  to 
hear  that  the  truth  was  of  sufficient  importance  to 
demand  his  time,  and  that  a good  man  ought  to  make 
it  a matter  of  most  diligent  inquiry.* 

This  then  is  the  effect  of  Romanism,  falsely 
termed  Christianity,  and  this  the  barrier  it  erects 
against  the  pure  doctrines  of  the  cross.  If  the  word 
of  these  men  can  be  relied  on,  how  widely  prevalent 

* Since  writing  the  above,  ten  Catholic  Missionaries,  including 
four  natives  and  six  Europeans,  have  arrived  at  Batavia,  on  their 
way  to  Cochin-China.  According  to  their  statement,  there  are 


JAVA. 


173 


must  be  its  errors,  and  anti-christian  its  influence  in 
Cochin-China. 

March  29th.  Having  made  arrangements  to 
make  a tour  of  about  sixteen  or  eighteen  miles  in  the 
country,  we  arose  this  morning  and  pursued  our 
journey  some  distance  by  the  light  of  the  moon.  The 
undisturbed  serenity  of  the  hour — the  sombre  shade 
of  the  forests,  and  the  pale  beauties  of  the  open  land- 
scape— the  freshness  of  the  dewy  morning,  and  above 
all,  the  tranquilizing  influence  of  the  moon  with  its 
thousand  associations,  combined  to  produce  the  most 
dehghtful  effect  upon  the  mind  sobered  by  a tempo- 
rary suspension  of  thought,  and  still  unrufiled  by 
the  cares  of  the  day. 

On  account  of  the  frequent  rains,  and  the  bad  state 
of  those  roads  which  are  not  kept  at  the  expense  of 
government,  we  were  obliged  to  exchange  our  mode 
of  conveyance  after  the  first  four  miles,  and  make 
the  whole  of  the  remaining  journey  on  horseback. 
Such  was  the  depth  and  tenacity  of  the  mud  in  some 
spots  that  the  horses  could  scarcely  proceed,  and  the 
bridges  which  were  covered  with  a wicker-work 

three  hundred  thousand  Catholics  in  Cochin-China  and  Tonquin. 
According  to  the  authority  upon  which  the  number  of  Catholics 
is.  given  in  China,  there  are  in  Tonquin  and  Cochin-China,  four 
Bishops,  fifteen  European  missionaries,  upwards  of  one  hundred 
native  missionaries,  and  more  than  four  hundred  thousand  con- 
verts. More  than  three-fourths  of  this  number  are  in  Tonquin, 
now  subject  to  Cochin-China. 


15 


174 


JAVA. 


of  bamboo,  were  so  wet  and  smooth  before  the 
sun  appeared,  that  once  my  horse  slipt  and  fell  in  an 
instant,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  kind  interposition 
of  an  unseen  hand,  by  which  I found  myself  standing 
at  his  side,  my  limbs  would  probabl  y have  been  crushed. 

There  was  nothing  remarkable  in  the  face  of  the 
country.  The  land  was  generally  level,  the  smaller 
elevations  beipg  selected  for  the  site  of  native  villages, 
and  the  low  grounds  covered  with  rice.  We  passed 
near  the  establishment  of  the  former  Rajah  of  the 
island.  The  only  insignia  of  royalty  remaining,  are 
three  or  four  beautiful  waringin  trees,  always  planted 
in  Java  before  the  houses  of  native  princes. 

One  of  the  descendants  of  the  royal  family  joined 
us  on  horseback,  and  continued  some  distance  in  the 
way  we  were  travelling.  He  conversed  sensibly  on 
the  subject  of  religion,  and  although  professedly  Ma- 
homedan,  did  not  pretend  to  palliate  the  evil  con- 
sequences of  some  of  the  prophet’s  doctrines,  nor 
refuse  to  receive  a Christian  publication. 

About  nine  o’clock  we  reached  a small  settlement 
of  Portuguese,  whose  ancestors,  by  the  might  and 
fower  of  the  sword,  were  obliged  to  renounce  Catholi- 
cism and  embrace  the  Protestant  faith.  Having  left 
word  that  we  would  return  in  time  to  preach,  we 
continued  our  journey  about  three  miles  farther  to 
the  market-place. 

In  this  part  of  our  way  the  country  was  adorned 


JAVA.  , 


175 


with  the  most  extensive  groves  of  cocoa-nuts  I ever 
beheld.  The  oil  of  this  nut  is  much  employed  by 
the  natives,  both  in  their  cooking  and  in  anointing 
their  bodies.  By  the  time  we  reached  our  destination, 
the  rays  of  the  sun  were  very  oppressive;  but  the 
sheds  under  which  the  natives  were  'assembled 
afforded  some  relief,  and  enabled  us  to  prosecute  our 
labors.  Mr.  M.  and  the  Amboynese  convert  who 
accompanied  us,  spent  two  or  three  hours  in  preach- 
ing to  the  natives  and  distributing  books.  The  crowd 
was  not  as  great  as  at  the  other  places  we  had  visited, 
although  the  tracts  were  disposed  of  with  but  little 
difficulty. 

We  noticed  two  or  three  young  men,  better  habited 
and  in  appearance  more  intelligent  tharithe  common 
class,  whose  conduct  betrayed  their  opposition  to  our 
object.  Having  watched  their  suspicious  movement, 
and  found  that  they  were  not  satisfied  with  what  tracts 
tlrey  had  procured,  but  were  impudent  in  helping 
tlremselves  to  others,  ]\I.  took  from  them  what  they 
had  received,  and  refused  to  give  them  a single  one. 
This  determined  measure  had  the  desired  effect ; they 
soon  disappeared. 

We  returned  to  the  Portuguese  settlement  about 
mid-da^'^,  and  after  resting  an  hour,  and  taking  some 
refreshment,  were  invited  to  the  house  of  God,  by  the 
familiar  tones  of  the  church-going  bell.  About  thirty 
convened  in  an  old  building  erected  in  1674,  after 


176 


JAVA. 


the  ancient  style  of  Dutch  architecture.  Mr.  Med- 
hurst  addressed  the  assembly,  endeavoring  to  impress 
some  of  the  lessons  of  Christianity,  which  it  is  very 
evident  they  knew  merely  in  theory.  They  had 
been  favored  with  the  labors  of  a missionary,  whose 
bones  now  repose  before  the  door  of  the  church.  To 
me,  the  occasion  was  unusually  impressive,  and 
understanding  but  little  of  the  language,  the  associa- 
tions, I hope,  were  not  without  profit.  It  was  strange 
to  find  a house  dedicated  to  the  service  of  the  true 
God,  in  this  sequestered  part  of  heathen  lands — 
strange  that  it  should  have  stood  a century  and  a 
half  in  such  a place,  and  still  more  deplorable  than 
strange  that  its  light  should  have  been  so  completely  lost 
during’all  this  time,  in  the  darkness  that  surrounds  it. 

I was  surprised  and  grieved  to  find  that  the 
missionary  conceived  himself  under  no  obligations  to 
preach  to  the  unchristianized  natives,  and  that  their 
unhallowed  feet  were  not  allowed  to  tread  the  thresh- 
hold  of  this  sacred  place.  No  wonder  its  own  chil- 
dren have  dwindled  to  a handful,  and  its  light  become 
well  nigh  extinct. 

March  31st. — This  evening,  attended  service 
in  the  Dutch  church,  preparatory  to  the  sacrament. 
This  ordinance  is  administered  twice  a year  in  Bata- 
via— once  on  good  Friday,  which  occurs,  to-morrow. 
When  we  entered,  the  clerk  was  reading  the  Bible, 
and  continued  until  the  dominie  commenced.  Sing- 


JAVA. 


177 


ing  and  reading  the  Scriptures  are  always  continued 
half  an  hour  before  the  service,  during  which  time  it 
is  expected  that  all  the  congregation  will  convene. 

The  order  of  service  was  very  different  from  that 
observed  in  the  Dutch  churches  at  home.  The 
minister  commenced  by  pronouncing  a blessing  upon 
the  congregation,  which  was  received  standing,  after 
which  a hymn  was  sung,  the  exordium  remotum  de- 
livered, and  prayer  offered.  Then  the  text  was 
announced,  and  the  first  division  of  the  subject 
exhausted,  which  was  followed  by  singing,  a long 
exliortation  to  alms-giving,  and  two  collections  for 
the  church  and  the  poor.  These  were  received  in 
the  black  bag,  with  a small  bell  at  the  bottom.  When 
the  exhortation  to  charity  was  concluded,  the  deacons 
left  their  places,  and  the  second  division  of  the  sub- 
ject was  resumed,  and  continued  amid  the  noise  and 
confusion  of  their  employment,  and  probably  half  an 
hour  after  they  had  finished.  Another  hymn  was 
then  sung,  after  which  all  who  expected  to  commune 
on  the  approaching  day,  were  requested  to  arise  and 
answer  a number  of  questions  in  regard  to  their  faith. 
With  a very  few  exceptions,  the  whole  congregation 
arose.  This  was  succeeded  by  prayer — the  publica- 
tion of  new  members,  a hymn,  and  the  blessing. 
My  companion,  who  understood  the  sermon,  repeated 
its  sentiments  on  our  return  home.  The  subject 
was  the  burial  of  the  Saviour  by  Joseph  of  Arima- 


178 


JAVA. 


thea,  and  Nicodemus.  The  speaker  was  animated 
and  eloquent,  but  his  exhibition  of  doctrine  and  cha- 
racter was  lamentably  defective. 

The  Dutch  church  in  these  islands  was  planted 
nearly  the  tim^  when  our  forefathers  colonized  New 
Amsterdam.  That  zeal  for  the  Saviour’s  glory,  and 
attachment  to  the  doctrines  of  her  standards  charac- 
terized the  eastern  branch  of  the  mother  church  equal- 
ly with  the  western,  is  proved  by  historic  testimony. 
We  have  one  of  the  least  ambiguous  evidences  of 
this  fact  in  the  ardor  and  enterprise  with  which  her 
ministers  engaged  in  the  duty  of  evangelizing  the 
heathen  around  theim  The  Bible  was  translated 
— works  of  much  utility  and  merit  were  written — 
preaching  was  commenced — schools  opened — in  fact, 
every  thing  which  was  attempted  for  the  heathen, 
was  done  by  these  men ; missionary  societies  were 
unknown  at  the  time. 

How  long  the  church  continued  unimpeachable 
in  doctrines  and  morals,  we  have  no  data  to  determine. 
The  history  as  iar  as  it  goes,  and  tradition  subse- 
quently depend  for  their  faithfulness,  so  much  upon 
the  sentiments  of  those  by  whom  they  were  written 
or  preserved,  that  unless  we  can  determine  the  cha- 
racter of  the  recorder  or  narrator,  we  cannot  decide 
upon  the  right  interpretation  of  hfs  facts. 

The  deterioration  of  the  churches  at  home — the 
neglect  to  appoint  chaplains,  when  the  company  was 


JAVA. 


179 


disorganized — the  subordination  of  the  ministry  to 
the  secular  power,* — the  dissipated  habits  of  Eastern 
society,  added  to  the  worldly  spirit  and  unsound  faith 
of  many  of  the  chaplains — are  quite  sufficient  to 
account  for  the  sad  change  which  c#me  over  this 
once  flourishing  part  of  the  Saviour’s  vineyard. 

April  5th. — To-day  is  the  commencement  of  the 
cheng  beng  in  the  Mandarin  dialect,  tsing  wing 
season,  when  the  Chinese  repair  to  the  graves  of  the  • 
deceased  and  sacrifice  to  their  manes.  Desirous  to 
improve  the  opportunity  of  usefulness,  we  visited 
the  largest  cemetery  in  the  vicinity  of  Batavia,  and 
spent  part  of  the  morning  in  conversation  and  distri- 
buting tracts.  Many  thousands  were  present,  though 
in  none  could  we  discover  that  solemnity,  or  sadness 
of  association,  which  we  generally  connect  with  the 
place  of  the  dead,  and  which  might  be  thought  to 
result  from  communion  with  invisible  spirits. 

The  graves,  with  perhaps  a few  exceptions,  were 
adorned  with  colored  paper- — one  of  the 'sepulchres  of 
the  great  was  covered  with  mats,  and  converted  into 
a scene  of  pompous  ceremony  and  shameful  carousal. 
This  tomb  was  more  magnificent  than  any  thing  of  the 
kind  I saw  in  China.  It  occupied  enough  ground  to 
bury  one  hundred  men  in  ordinary  graves — was  com- 
posed of  a high  and  spacious  mound,  with  a platform 

* This  may  result  as  much  from  the  management  of  the  local 
officers  as  from  the  disposition  of  the  general  government. 


180 


JAVA. 


of  cement  in  front,  surrounded  with  a wall,  and  deco- 
rated with  pilasters  of  the  same  material.  Two 
hideous  stone  figures,  more  like  lions  than  any  other 
creatures  of  earthly  shape,  were  seated  on  pedestals 
to  guard  the  gntrance.  On  the  platform,  covering  an 
area  of  perhaps  fifty  feet  by  twenty,  was  spread  a 
table,  with  a great  variety  of  viands,  fruits,  preserves, 
(fcc.,  denominated  a sacrifice  to  the  dead,  but  designed 
to  gorwe  the  living.  Before  the  table  two  men  were 
kneeling,  one  with  his  head  to  the  ground,  the  other 
holding  a small  tablet  in  his  hand,  from  which  he  read 
for  the  information  of  the  departed  spirit,  the  devotion 
of  the  relatives,  and  their  desire  to  be  reciprocally 
honored.  The  tablet  was  read  in  a corruption  of  the 
Mandarin  dialect,  which  is  generally  considered  the 
most  dignified  expression  of  the  Chinese  character. 
This  being  performed,  the  men  arose,  the  assembly 
began  to  talk  and  laugh,  the  music  struck  up,  and  the 
dead  were  soon  forgotten.  We  did  not  remain  to 
witness  the  revel  which  ensues.* 

• The  tombs  of  the  wealthy  generally  face  a pond  of  water, 
and  extend  to  its  edge.  The  Chinese  have  estrange  superstition  con- 
nected with  what  they  term  “ fung  shuy,”  which  expression  means 
wind  and  water,  and  appears  to  be  applied  to  the  science  of  deter- 
mining the  sites  of  buildings  and  graves.  When  the  dead  are  dis- 
pleased with  the  situation  of  their  sepulchres,  some  temporal 
calamity — generally  a want  of  success  in  making  money,  is  thought 
to  be  the  certain  evidence  and  infliction.  A small  temple  is 
erected  on  the  ground,  most  frequently  dedicated  to  the  god  of 
happiness,  and  believed  to  conciliate  the  spirit  of  the  place. 


JAVA, 


181 


Before  the  temple  stages  were  erected,  and  child- 
ren acting  for  the  amusement  of  the  populace.  Mr. 
Medhurst  was  interrupted  in  publishing  the  Gospel 
to  this  multitude,  by  a deranged  Chinaman,  who  has 
either  conceived  a strange  disposition  to  ridicule  the 
missionary,  or  been  ihcited  by  wicked  men  or  devils 
to  oppose  him.  He  appeared  with  a book  in  his 
hand,  and  after  the  manner  of  M.  pretended  to  quote 
a passage,  and  explain  it  to  the  people.  His  con- 
versation to-day  was  very  obscene ; generally,  he 
conceives  a most  absurd  sentiment,  which  he  gravely 
repeats  in  the  reading  dialect,  as  though  borrowed 
from  some  sacred  book,  and  then  descants  on  its 
meaning  in  the  colloquial,  to  the  great  amusement  of 
his  auditory.  Many  tracts  were  distributed,  and  in- 
structive sentiments  expressed  before  we  returned. 

7th. — This  morning  visited  a temple  dedicated  to 
Twa-Sai-Yah,  the  son  of  a mandarin,  who  presided 
over  the  district  of  Teon.  Twa,  Tokien  province. 
The  image  is  represented  with  an  extended  sword  in 
the  right  hand.  The  father  was  appointed  to  office 
during  the  present  dynasty,  and  it  is  remarkable  that 
the  circumstance  for  which  the  son  was  deified,  so 
incredible  in  its  nature,  and  yet  so  widely  credited, 
should  be  of  such  a recent  date.  On  the  arrival  of 
the  mandarin  to  the  place  of  his  appointment,  he 
was  informed  that  a gigantic  snail,  or  rather  an  in- 
carnate elf  of  its  appearance,  held  its  abode  in  a 

16 


182 


JAVA. 


lake  or  pond  of  the  district,  and  annually  devoured 
hundreds  of  men. 

The  same  fact  was  stated  to  the  son  of  the  officer, 
a heroic  youth,  who  seized  a sword,  plunged  iu  the 
pond,  and  appeared  no  more.  The  water  was  drain- 
ed, and  the  young  man  was  found  standing  upon  the 
monster,  having  transfixed  his  body,  and  rather  than 
lose  his  prey,  held  him  in  that  position,  until  they 
both  had  perished. 

The  men  who  have  erected  the  temple  we  visited, 
are  from  that  district  of.China,  and  say  that  the  shell 
of  this  huge  creature  has  been  employed  for  an  in- 
cense vase,  in  a temple  erected  to  the  honor  of  the 
hero,  ever  since  the  event;  and  that  it  measures  one 
yard  in  diameter.  It  is  from  a strange  idea  that  dis- 
tinguished men  on  earth  are  equally  distinguished  in 
heaven,  and  capable  of  affording  assistance  to  mortal^ 
that  they  are  induced  to  multiply  their  temples,  upon 
the  demise  of  every  extraordinary  character. 

Mr.  M.  has  witnessed  some  of  the  incantations 
which  they  practice,  to  obtain  the  inspiration  of  such 
deified  men.  Upon  the  performance  of  some  ridicu- 
lous ceremony,  the  subject  becomes  convulsed,  exerts 
himself  with  violence,  frequently  cuts  his  body  with  a 
sword,  ajid  when  necessarily  composed  from  the  ex- 
haustion of  effort  and  pain,  is  thought  to  be  tranquil- 
ized  by  the  influence  of  the  deity,  and  prepared  to 
answer  such  questions  as  are  proposed.  As  the  'ub- 


JAVA. 


183 


ject  of  inquiry  is  generally  one  of  deep  interest,  his  re- 
plies are  noted  down  with  all  possible  dispatch,  and  his 
advice  carefully  and  confidently  followed.  The  evi- 
dence of  true  inspiration,  is  the  rapidity  with  which 
his  wounds  heal,  and  the  success  which  attends  his 
prescriptions. 

How  far  Satan  may  be  allowed  to  assist  in  these 
delusions,  none  can  determine  ; but  that  there  is  some- 
thing like  infernal  intervention,  or  most  stupid  credu- 
lity— perhaps  both — is  very  probable  to  thf'se  who 
have  any  tolerable  acquaintance  with  heathen  lands, 

April  14th. — This  afternoon,  we  rode  about  six 
miles  in  the  country,  and  attended  a Chinese  ceremo- 
ny, which  reminded  us  of  the  “bloody  rites  of  Moloch.” 
It  occurs  on  the  birth-day  of  one  of  the  Taou  gods, 
and  is  performed  by  running  barefoot  through  a large 
heap  of  ignited  charcoal.  The  pile  was  about  ten  or 
twelve  feet  square,  and  nearly  two  feet  in  height.  It 
threw  out  a sweltering  heat.  The  crowd  was  large, 
and  the  crash  of  gongs  almost  deafening.  When  we 
arrived,  we  found  two  priests  standing  near  the  fire, 
earnestly  reading  a hook,  though  the  noise  drowned 
their  voices,  and  performing  a variety  of  strange 
acts,  which  they  appeared  to  derive  from  its  pages. 
One  of  them  held  a cow’s  horn  in  his  hand,  with 
which  he  occasionally  assisted  the  noise,  while  the 
other,  after  burning  paper,  and  making  his  obei- 
sance, advanced  to  the  fire — sprinkled  water  upon  the 


184 


JAVA. 


heap,  struck  it  violently  with  a sword,  threw  in  more 
of  the  paper,  bowed  his  head,  and  frequently  gazed 
upwards  with  an  expression  of  most  intense  earnest- 
ness, while  his  whole  body,  as  might  be  supposed,  was 
bathed  in  perspiration.  After  this, they  both  approach- 
ed the  fire,  went  through  a number  of  antics,  and  ■- 
finally  dashed  through  the  coals.  A passage  was 
kept  clear  from  an  adjacent  temple  to  the  spot,  and 
as  soon  as  the  priests  had  set  the  example,  a number 
of  persons,  old  and  young,  came  running  from  the 
temple  with  idols  in  their  hands,  and  carried  them 
through  the  fire.  Others  followed  the  example,  and 
among  them,  an  old  man,  who  rather  halted  and 
staggered  in  the  midst  of  the  heap.  This  part  of  the 
ceremony  lasted  but  a few  minutes,  and  the  crowd 
soon  dispersed. 

It  is  thought  to  be  a test  of  the  moral  character  of 
those  who  attempt  it.  If  they  have  a “ true  heart” 
and  faith  in  the  god,  they  are  never  injured.  It  is 
performed  by  some  of  them,  in  fulfillment  of  a vow 
made  in  times  of  danger  or  necessity.  One  of  the 
votaries  last  year  fell  down  in  the  midst  of  the  pile, 
and  was  severely  burned.  Our  budget  of  Chinese 
tracts  was  disposed  of,  as  speedily  as  they  could  be 
handed  out.  In  fact,  it  was  thought  expedient  to 
check  their  violence  in  snatching  them  away. 

26th. — Mr.  Medhurst  has  generally  a number  of 
schools,  both  Malay  and  Chinese,  in  which  Christian 


JAVA. 


185 


books  are  introduced,  and  over  which  himself  and 
Mr,  Young  maintain  a strict  superintendence.  The 
parents  are  willing  that  he  should  have  the  direction 
of  the  school,  on  condition  that  he  pay  a proportion 
of  the  teacher’s  wages.  1 have  visited  them  a number 
of  times,  and  was  favorably  impressed  with  the 
course  pursued,  in  rendering  intelligible  to  their 
minds  the  truths  of  Christianity,  and  the  absurdity  of 
Paganism.  It  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  effectual 
means  of  establishing  the  one  system  upon  the  ruins 
of  the  other,  which  could  be  adopted. 

In  striking  contrast  with  these,  and  in  fact,  with 
all  schools  conducted  on  the  ordinary  principles  of 
teaching  at  home,  are  the  attempts  of  the  native 
school-masters,  to  instruct  their  pupils. 

This  morning  we  walked  a short  distance  in  the 
country,  to  distribute  tracts  in  the  adjacent  can)pongs, 
and  among  the  travellers  who  are  constantly  passing 
to  and  from  town.  The  noise  of  school-boys  attract- 
ed our  attention,  and  upon  coming  to  the  shed  in 
which  they  were  assembled,  we  found  fifteen  of  the 
native  children  conning  the  Arabic  Koran  in  a loud 
sing-song  tone.  Not  seeing  the  teacher,  we  inquired 
for  him,  and  found  that  he  was  employed  in  cultiva- 
ting his  land,  some  distance  from  them,  while  they 
amused  themselves  in  this  unprofitable  exercise.  The 
teacher  confessed  that  he  did  not  understand  what 
was  contained  in  the  book,  and  that  he  was  persua- 
16* 


186 


JAVA. 


ded  of  the  unprofitableness  of  such  instructions  as 
he  could  give ; but  he  said  the  importunity  of  the 
parents  imposed  a necessity  upon  him. 

To  read  the  Koran  in  a certain  tone  of  voice, 
without  comprehending  a word  of  its  meaning,  is  the 
object,  if  not  the  achme  of  education,  among  the  in- 
dolent Malays.  The  only  advantage  is,  that  they 
become  acquainted  with  the  Arabic  character,  which 
is  employed  in  writing  their  own  language,  and  by 
which  they  are  assisted  in  their  knowledge  of  Chris- 
tian books  in  the  A'^ernacular.  They  are  generally 
willing  to  hear  any  conversation  on  religion,  and 
seldom  refuse  a tract,  especially  when  its  contents  are 
previously  made  the  basis  of  remark. 

May  6th,  (Friday.) — On  Wednesday  morning, 
six  o’clock,  we  left  this  place  in  a government  vehicle, 
and  reached  Bitenzorg,  the  residence  of  the  governor, 
in  about  four  hours.  The  distance  is  thirty-nine 
miles.  The  governor,  it  is  said,  performs  the  journey 
in  two  hours  and  a half,  or  three  hours,  and  men  of 
less  distinction  and  fewer  advantages,  generally  in 
four.  Our  conveyance  was  exceedingly  shabby,  and 
the  horses  puny  and  way-worn.  Although  apprehen- 
sive that  the  old  vehicle  might  give  way,  nothing  oc- 
curred to  stop  our  progress,  but  the  escape  of  one  of  the 
poneys,  which,  by  some  unaccountable  means,  cleared 
himself  from  the  harness,  and  took  another  direction. 

The  palace,  as  the  residence  of  the  governor  is 


JAVA. 


187 


called,  is  rather  a splendid  edifice,  built  in  the  form  of 
a crescent, though  with  a glaring  architectural  blunder. 
It  has  one  window  more  on  one  side,  than  the  other, 
which,  when  standing  in  front  of  the  door,  makes  the 
building  appear  as  though  it  had  a deficiency  in  the 
curve.  It  has  a park  in  front,  stocked  with  deer,  and 
an  extensive  garden  in  the  rear,  laid  out  and  orna- 
mented in  a handsome  style.  The  plot  is  undula- 
ting, the  walks  are  broad,  and  well  gravelled,  the 
trees  and  shrubbery  rare  and  beautiful,  and  the 
scene  is  adorned  with  lakes,  bridges,  a small  island, 
jet  d’eau,  and  cascade.  It  is  kept  at  an  expense  to 
government  of  seven  thousand  rupees  a month. 

Between  Bitenzorg  and  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains, which  lift  their  lofty  heads  ten  or  eleven  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea,  the  face  of  the  country  is 
much  more  diversified  and  beautiful  than  the  low  un- 
varying level  of  Batavia.  We  were  in  hopes  of  hav- 
ing a clear  view  of  the  crater — the  smoke  from  which 
is  distinctly  seen  from  Batavia,  but  an  intervening 
peak  completely  shut  it  in,  before  we  reached  Biten- 
zorg. Among  the  objects  of  curiosity  in  this  place,  is 
an  old  tablet,  the  characters  of  which,  as  far  as  the 
knowledge  of  numerous  visitors  go,  are  entirely  dis- 
tinct from  any  thing  known  in  present  use,  or  traced 
in  antiquarian  research. 

Our  time  was  spent  in  visiting  the  Chinese  and 
native  villages,  and  distributing  tracts.  The  Chinese 


188 


JAVA. 


camp,  as  their  settlements  are  denominated,  is  exten- 
sive and  populous.  They  listened  attentively  to  the 
instructions  of  Mr.  Medhurst,  and  received  the  books 
with  pleasure. 

In  our  visits  among  the  Javanese,  we  called  up- 
on the  quandom  reigning  family — who  still  exercise 
the  highest  functions  intrusted  by  government  to 
the  natives.  The  establishment  is  very  commodi- 
ous, and  though  without  splendor,  much  superior  to 
any  of  their  buildings,  I have  yet  seen.  The  pre- 
sent governor  is  fifty-seven  years  of  age,  and  his  father, 
who  in  his  old  age  has  become  a Mahomedan  priest, 
eighty-one.  There  are  fiv^e  generations  of  them  now 
living,  and  the  old  man  numbers  no  less  than  two 
hundred  and  fifty  descendants  upon  earth.  Our  books 
were  received  at  the  palace  with  politeness,  and  a 
number  of  them  distributed  in  the  villages. 

The  principal  Chinaman  in  authority  at  Biten- 
zorg,  returned  to  Batavia  with  us.  Though  without 
any  apparent  regard  for  Christianity,  he  appears  so 
well  persuaded  of  the  absurdity  and  evil  consequen- 
ces of  many  of  the  established  superstitions,  that  he 
has  been  opposing  them,  by  all  the  weight  of  his  au- 
thority, and  with  considerable  success.  A small  tem- 
ple, which  they  venerated  for  its  mystic  influence,  has 
been  removed  and  houses  have  been  erected  on  its  site. 
The  custom  of  calling  in  those  to  prescribe  for  the 
sick,  whom  they  suppose  capable  of  being  possessed 


JAVA. 


189 


at  option,  and  to  whose  absurd  vagaries  they  attach 
the  highest  virtue,  has  been  abolisiied.  The  influ- 
ence of  the  priests  has  been  attacked  and  diminished, 
and  other  measures  are  contemplated,  which,  though 
unintentional  to  the  agent,  will  tend  to  prepare  the 
way  for  a purer  and  less  cumbrous  faith.  Mr.  M. 
spent  much  of  the  time  in  teaching  the  nature  and  en- 
forcing the  reasonableness  of  the  Christian  religion 
upon  the  mind  of  our  fellow  traveller.  We  can  go 
to  no  place,  where  there  is  not  an  extensive  field  of 
usefulness,  and  all  prepared  to  the  laborer’s  hand. 

These  facts  recorded  at  the  time  show  the  exten- 
sive sphere  for  missionary  exertion  in  Java.  At  the 
same  time  they  give  but  a very  partial  view  of  the  va- 
rious scenes  of  labor  and  interest,  which  might  have 
been  daily  visited,  had  our  number  borne  some  tri- 
fling proportion  to  our  opportunities  of  usefulness. 
The  towns,  the  roads,  the  native  schools,  and  above 
all,  the  passers  or  bazars,  (as  they  are  termed  in  India) 
which  are  held  in  every  part  of  the  surrounding 
country,  furnish  scope  for  the  zeal  of  a large  number 
of  missionaries. 

These,  with  the  regular  services  in  English  and 
Malay — the  visitation  of  the  Chinese — superinten- 
dence of  schools — besides  the  never-ending  study  of 
languages  and  preparation  of  books;  with  all  the 
various  charitable  objects  in  which  the  missionary 
must  be  the  chief  agent,  added  to  his  own  domestic 
duties  of  every  day’s  recurrence — constitute  the  ira- 


190 


JAVA. 


mense  burden  which  is  made  to  rest  with  its  chief 
weight  upon  the  shoulders  of  one  man.  Soon  may 
this  neglected  island  receive  the  attention  it  claims 
from  the  Christian  world. 

The  three  large  settlements,  Batavia,  Saraarang, 
and  Soerabaya  ought  to  be  immediately  occupied, 
aud  made  the  head-quarters  of  missionary  operation. 
From  these  points  “ the  light  of  life”  might  radiate, 
until  the  rays  met  in  every  part  of  this  dark  domain. 

The  writer  is  obliged  to  add,  with  pain,  that 
since  the  above  was  written,  the  prospect  of  unre- 
strained effort  is  not  so  flattering  as  when  he  re- 
sided at  Batavia.*'  %Ir.  Bruckner,  who  was  absent 
at  the  time  from  the  island,  for  the  purpose  of 
printing  some  works  in  the  Javanese  language, 
and  returned  soon  afterwards,  was  arrested  by  the 
authorities,  in  the  midst  of  the  most  interesting  series 
of  labors.  The  eager  natives  were  thronging  his 
house,  to  receive  the  tracts  he  brought  with  him, 
when  the  government  officers  interfered,  took  away 
the  books,  and  placed  a veto  upon  their  future  distri- 
bution. Another  fact  we  extract  from  the  fifth  num- 
ber, volume  first  of  the  Chinese  Repository — a work 
which  every  one  who  takes  an  interest  in  the  history, 
literature,  religion,  present  condition,  and  prospects  oi 
China  and  the  neighboring  kingdoms  and  islands, 
ought  to  take.  The  following  is  the  language  of  the 
extract : 

“ The  whole  population  of  a small  village,  wish- 


JAVA. 


191 


ing  to  become  Christians,  and  to  be  instructed  in  the 
truths  of  the  gospel,  requested  the  resident  at  Soura- 
baya  to  send  them  a teacher  with  Bibles  ; which  he  re- 
fused,declaringthat  he  would  not  allow  them  to  become 
Christians,  as  they  were  quite  happy  enough  without 
Christianity ; and  further,  that  Christian  tracts,  in  the 
Javanese  language,  have  been  confiscated,  and  the 
funds  of  the  Dutch  Bible  Society  occasionally  ap- 
plied to  purposes  merely  literary.” 

It  is  the  opinion  of  those  who  have  recently  visit- 
ed Java,  that  the  most  serious  embarrassments  would 
be  thrown  in  the  way  of  extensive  missionary  opera- 
tions. They  say  it  now  requires  permission  from 
the  government  at  home  to  constitute  a foreigner  a 
burgher — and  that  those  who  are  not  enfranchised, 
cannot  travel  in  the  interior.  Besides  this,  the 
local  officers  have  it  in  their  power  to  prevent  the 
circulation  of  books  among  the  natives,  and  appear 
determined  to  exercise  that  power.  These  facts  have 
certainly  not  been  rightly  represented  to  the  king  of 
Holland,  or  we  have  reason  to  believe  the  evils  would 
soon  be  corrected.  The  bugbear  of  insv.rrection,  by 
which  those  who  oppose  missions,  profess  to  be  fright- 
ened, and  attempt  to  scare  others,  cannot  alarm  one 
who  knows  the  tendency  of  Christian  principles. 
We  sincerely  hope  that  the  subject  will  be  investiga- 
ted by  the  authorities  in  the  mother  country,  and  that 
the  present  and  eternal  happiness  of  so  many  mil- 


192 


JAVA. 


lions  of  souls,  will  not  be  allowed  to  yield  to  the  cmel 
and  unwise  policy  of  a few  local  officers.  If  the  same 
liberty  which  is  enjoyed  throughout  every  part  of 
British  India,  were  allowed  the  missionaries  in  this 
and  the  neighboring  islands,  rebellions  would  he  no 
more  frequent  than  in  Hindostan,  and  the  greatest 
advantage  would  soon  be  realized  by  all  parties. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


PASSAGE  FROM  JAVA  TO  SINGAPORE.- 

On  Saturday  evening,  June  4th,  embarked  in  the 
English  ship  Bencoolen,  captain  Roberts,  for  Singa- 
pore. The  next  morning,  before  daybreak,  we 
weighed  anchor,  and  availing  ourselves  of  the  land 
breeze,  stood  to  sea.  After  sailing  gently  a day  or 
two,  and  passing  a few  unimportant  islands,  we  en- 
tered the  straits  of  Banca,  between  the  island  of  that 
name  and  Sumatra.  The  tin  mines  on  Banca,  in 
the  possession  of  the  Dutch,  are  said  to  yield  a large 
quantity  of  good  metal. 

The  immense  island  of  Sumatra,  extending  about 
one  thousand  miles  in  length,  and  varying  from  one 
to  two  hundred  in  average  breadth,  lay  before  us  like 
a motionless  sea.  The  maritime  parts  on  both  sides 
are  low  and  marshy,  though  it  is  intersected  longitu- 
dinally by  chains  of  unequal  mountains,  some  of  them 
nearly  as  high  as  the  loftiest  summit  of  the  Alps. 
We  passed  the  mouths  of  several  of  its  large  rivers, 
the  current  from  which,  appeared  to  reach  the  oppo- 
site part  of  the  strait. 


17 


194 


SUMATRA. 


Sumatra  is  divided  into  a number  of  distinct,  in- 
dependent kingdoms ; the  most  important  of  which, 
are  known  by  the  names  of  Menangkahoo  Balia  and 
Ballumary  or  Kampang. 

In  former  times  Menangkahoo  held  the  empire  of 
the  whole  island,  and  at  the  present  day  its  sultan 
combines  the  influence  of  a sovereign  prince,  and  a 
moslem  pontiff.  The  Dutch,  before  their  recent  ex- 
pulsion and  massacre,  succeeded  in  conquering  this 
strong  hold  of  the  country,  and  establishing  them- 
selves, as  they  thought,  in  perpetual  security.  Had 
they  retained  their  dearly  bought  possession,  they 
could,  in  all  probability,  have  commanded  the  re- 
sources of  the  island.  A carriage  road  connects  this 
central  spot  with  Padang  to  the  west,  about  half  a day’s 
journey  ; and  a large  river  opens  a free  communication 
between  it  and  the  east,  through  which  its  products  are 
transported  to  Singapore.  The  inhabitants  of  this  an- 
cient kingdom  were  early  con  verted  to  Islamism.  Pan- 
garooyoong,  its  capital,  is  the  chief  resort  of  pilgrims 
of  that  religion,  and  was  formerly  the  great  seat  of  lite- 
rature in  the  island.  The  natives  of  Menangkahoo 
are  in  advance  of  all  their  neighbors,  'in  letters  and 
the  arts.  They  have  borrowed  the  Arabic  character, 
and  “their  whole  literature  consists  in  transcripts  from 
the  Koran,  and  in  bold  historic  tales.”  They  have 
long  been  famed  for  the  manufacture  of  arms,  and  for 
their  delicate  workmanship  in  gold. 


SUMATRA. 


195 


In  the  country  of  Balia,  which  includes  the 
northern  division  of  the  island,  is  the  famous  king- 
dom of  Acheen,  with  which  foreigners  are  well  ac- 
quainted. It  carries  on  a considerable  trade  with 
parts  of  India — its  sultan  being  the  principal  merchant 
of  the  place.  The  inhabitants  are  more  muscular, 
mdustrious  and  sagacious,  than  the  other  natives  of  the 
island ; they  profess  the  Islamic  faith,  and  are  said  by 
travellers  to  exemplify  some  of  its  sanguinary  prin- 
ciples. Still  they  are  under  the  iron  sway  of  a heredi- 
tary despotism,  and  subject  to  laws  as  rigorous  as  they 
are  partial  in  their  penal  inflictions.  The  most  severe 
punishments  fall  generally  upon  the  lowest  classes  of 
society. 

In  the  interior  of  this  general  division  of  the 
island,  is  the  beautiful  country  of  the  Battas^  part  of 
which,  stretches  over  a spacious  campaign  between 
two  ridges  of  mountains,  and  is  adorned  with  an  eJi;- 
tensive  lake.  This  region  of  the  island,  as  also 
Acheen,  are  represented  as  exceedingly  populous  ; 
it  is  subdivided  into  numerous  petty  principalities, 
occupied  generally  by  independent  tribes.  The  na- 
tives, though  spirited,  have  showed  themselves  inof- 
fensive in  their  conduct  toward  traders,  and  respectful 
and  hospitable  towards  the  Europeans  who  have  oc- 
casionally visited  them.  They  are  described  as  fairer 
and  smaller  than  the  Malays — fond  of  dress — and 
more  partial  to  horse  flesh,  than  to  any  other  species 


196 


SVMATRA. 


of  animal  food.  Polygamy  is  common.  The  women 
are  employed  as  slaves,  while  the  men  pass  away  the 
time  ill  war,  indolence,  gambling,  and  childish  amuse- 
ments. Such  is  their  estimate  of  the  dhference  be- 
tween the  sexes,  that  they  visit  the  same  offence  with 
a much  more  severe  punishment  when  committed  by 
the  men,  than  by  their  more  ignorant  and  less  culpable 
wives.  They  show  their  detestation  of  certain  crimes, 
by  devouring  the  guilty ; their  prisoners  of  war  often 
receive  no  better  quarter.  Like  the  generality  of  hea- 
then tribes,  they  are  exceedingly  superstitious  in 
matters  of  sorcery.  They  believe  in  two  deities,  of 
totally  opposite  characters,  though  the  best  writers 
affirm  that  they  have  no  idea  of  a future  state.  The 
Dutch  settlements  of  Tapanooly  and  Natal  lie  in  this 
section  of  the  island.  With  the  inhabitants  of 
Acheen,  they  entertain  a superstitious  regard  for  the 
sultan  of  Menangkaboo. 

In  Ballum-ary  or  Kampang,  the  third  division 
mentioned,  are  the  kingdom  of  Palembaug,  and  the 
country  of  the  Lampoons.  The  former  comprehends 
the  south-eastern  portion  of  Sumatra,  and  the  latter 
extends  to  its  southern  extremity.  Immense  and 
impenetrable  forests  cover  a large  region  of  this  south- 
ern division  of  the  island — the  inhabitants  are  gene- 
rally poor,  and  their  customs  much  like  those  of  their 
neighbors.  Palembang,  where  the  Dutch  had  a fac- 
tory, is  represented  as  a large  city,  inhabited  by  emi- 


SUMATRA. 


197 


grants  from  China,  Siam,  and  Java,  as  well  as  by  the 
natives  of  the  country. 

Besides  the  kingdoms  to  which  we  have  referred, 
there  are  many  independent  states,  situated  on  almost 
every  large  river,  and  answering  in  general  features 
to  those  described. 

What  an  immense  sphere  does  this  island  present 
for  Missionary  exertion ! The  Dutch  and  English 
have  alternately  held  the  foreign  stations  of  the  island, 
and  the  latter  have  sent  a few  missionaries  to  Bencoo- 
len  and  Padang,  but  the  great  work  of  converting  its 
millions  to  Christ  was  neither  commenced  nor  prose- 
cuted with  sufficient  energy.  At  present  there  is 
not  a missionary  on  the  island.  The  writer  be- 
came accpiainted  with  a pious  gentleman,  who  resided 
at  Padang,  and  who  promised  to  furnish  such  a state- 
ment of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants,  as  would  in- 
terest the  Christian  community  and  direct  them  in 
their  benevolent  efforts.  Since  that,  the  Dutch  have 
been  forcibly  driven  from  their  settlements — many  of 
them  were  massacred  by  the  enraged  natives,  and 
whether  the  person  referred  to,  with  a companion  of 
congenial  sentiments,  escaped,  is  uncertain,  as  no  in- 
telligence has  been  received  from  them  since  the 
dreadful  catastrophe. 

Some  of  the  islands  near  the  west  coast  of  Su- 
matra are  described  as  fertile  and  populous.  Pulo 
Nyas  is  inhabited  by  an  interesting  race  of  men,  who 
17* 


198 


SUMATRA. 


are  remarkably  ingenious,  and  carry  on  an  extensive 
traffic.  From  all  accounts  the  place  is  exceedingly 
favorable  for  missionary  labor,  and  we  know  of  no  ob- 
stacles to  its  immediate  occupancy. 

Along  the  whole  line  of  this  western  coast  of  Su- 
matra, and . among  the  adjacent  islands,  the  pious 
merchant  has  it  in  his  power  to  exert  the  best  in- 
fluence. It  is  a favorite  resort  for  trading  vessels 
from  America  and  England,  and  from  the  testimony 
of  one  who  has  been  engaged  in  the  traffic,  the  most 
dishonorable  and  dishonest  means  are  often  em- 
ployed in  defrauding  the  natives.  Should  houses  of 
commerce,  superintended  by  pious  agents,  be  estab- 
lished in  the  most  populous  and  advantageous  posi- 
tions ; and  should  ships  in  their  visits  to  other  places 
of  trade  carry  with  them  those  who  are  capable  of  in- 
structing the  natives,  what  immense  good  would 
accrue  to  the  heathen. 

On  our  way  to  Singapore  we  passed  by  a number 
of  islands,  which  are  occupied  by  pirates,  who  infest 
the  adjacent  seas  and  watch  for  such  vessels  as  they 
suppose  may  be  safely  and  successfully  attacked. 
Three  masts  generally  afford  a security,  although  even 
ships  have  been  assailed,  and  those  who  have  remain- 
ed to  tell  the  tale,  escaped  with  difficulty.  We  saw  a 
number  of  prods  in  the  straits  of  Banca,  but  our  ap- 
pearance was  too  formidable  to  invite  an  encounter, 
or  they  too  peaceful  to  attack  us. 


SINGAPORE. 


199 


The  Sabbath  was  a day  of  dehghtful  serenity,  and 
the  enjoyment  of  its  hallowed  privileges,  added  not  a 
httle  to  its  tranquilizing  features.  The  willingness 
with  which  the  tracts  were  received  and  read  by  crew 
and  passengers,  was  another  evidence  of  the  impor- 
tance of  always  being  furnished  with  a supply  of  these 
powerful  though  unobtrusive  monitors. 

On  Monday  morning,  weighed  anchor  early,  hav- 
hig  been  becalmed  the  previous  night,  and  stood 
through  the  straits,  lying  between  Pulo  Battam  and 
the  Great  Dryon.  It  is  questionable  whether  any 
ships  have  preceded  us  since  1803.  It  proved  to  be 
a safe,  and  in  many  respects  an  advantageous  passage. 
The  land  on  both  sides  is  quite  regular,  and  the 
scenery  though  perfectly  wild,  is  rather  interesting. 
1 do  not  recollect  ever  to  have  sailed  so  great  a dis- 
tance  among  such  a number  of  scattered  islands. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  June  14th,  the  ship  came 
to  anchor  in  Singapore  roads.  The  harbor  of  Sin- 
gapore is  very  extensive.  It  is  surrounded  by  nu- 
merous islands,  stretching  far  in  the  distance,  and  is 
capable  of  affording  safe  anchorage  to  any  number  of 
shipping. 

There  is  nothing  very  striking  in  the  aspect  of 
the  place.  The  site  of  the  business  part  of  the  town, 
is  either  a depressed  hill,  or  a redeemed  jungle.  The 
private  residences  are  generally  situated  upon  a plain, 
of  considerable  extent,  while  a few  mansions,  crowning 


200 


SINGAPORE. 


the  adjacent  hills,  relieve  the  dull  uniformity  which  a 
level  situation  gives  to  so  many  eastern  towns.  Being 
a free  port  for  all  but  Americans,  many  European  ships 
and  native  craft  are  generally  lying  in  the  harbor. 

On  my  arrival,  I found  the  missionaries  well,  and 
Mr.  Tomlin  on  the  eve  of  embarking  for  Siam.  We 
were  all  struck  with  the  concurrence  of  events,  and 
could  not  but  recognize  and  adore  the  goodness  of  the 
Lord  in  the  speciality  of  the  providence.  Mr.  T.  had 
been  waiting  a long  time  for  an  opportunity,  and  this 
very  vessel  had  been  detained  contrary  to  expecta- 
tions, beyond  the  appointed  period  of  sailing.  The 
very  day  of  my  arrival  she  obtained  her  port  clear- 
ance, but  through  the  compliance  of  the  captain — 
another  peculiar  feature  in  the  circumstance — the 
time  of  sailing  was  deferred  until  Friday  morning. 
An  opportunity  was  thus  presented  to  meet  all  those 
engagements  which  appeared  important,  before  leav- 
ing Singapore. 

It  was  cheering  to  find  from  the  missionaries,  that 
the  same  disposition  to  receive  Christian  books  which 
was  manifested  by  the  Malays  at  Batavia,  prevailed 
also  at  this  and  some  of  the  neighboring  stations. 
The  change  is  of  a very  recent  date,  and  the  hearts 
and  hands  of  the  missionaries  are  strengthened  in 
their  work. 

On  Friday,  17th,  we  embarked  in  an  Arab  vessel, 
with  an  European  commander,  for  Siam.  Mr.  Tomlin, 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


201 


Mr.  Daniell,  a pious  officer  in  the  Indian  army,  and 
myself,  were  obliged  to  occupy  the  same  half  of  the 
poop-cabin.  The  opposite  side  contained  two  of  the 
supercargo’s  wives,  who  were  never  exposed  to  the 
eyes  of  any  but  the  husband  and  servants.  The 
crew  consisted  of  six  and  forty  men,  the  principal  part 
of  whom  were  Arabs,  and  of  course  professors  of 
Islamism.  There  was  something  in  their  expressive 
features  and  muscular  forms,  very  different  from  the 
Bengalese  and  Malays.  The  prominent  nose,  pene- 
trating eye,  curling  locks  and  heavy  beard,  were 
characteristic  of  the  majority.  Their  conduct,  too, 
was  in  striking  opposition  to  any  thing  I had  ever 
witnessed  in  any  other  vessel.  Five  times  a day  they 
bent  the  knee,  and  bowed  the  head,  in  social  worship. 
The  principal  services  are  performed  at  day-dawn, 
and  sun-set. 

At  these  seasons,  the  Muezzin  ascended  the  quar- 
ter-deck— the  only  minaret  on  ship-board,  which 
would  answer  his  purpose,  and  stopping  his  ears  with 
his  fingers,  to  exclude  all  earthly  sounds,  proclaimed 
in  the  most  serious  manner,  the  appointed  hour  for 
their  devotions.  He  was  soon  joined  by  the  majority, 
who  with  their  faces  to  ward  the  west,  the  direction  of 
the  Moslem’s  kiblah  f¥om  our  present  position,  spent 
about  half  an  hour  in  their  fruitless  task.  They  heed 
not  the  presence  of  man — pass  not  the  hour  of  prayer, 
and  express  as  much  earnestness,  as  though  without 


202 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


a remote  suspicion  of  their  dreadful  delusion.  The 
mate  generally  leads  the  devotions,  standing  a short 
distance  in  advance  of  the  rest.  The  CQuntenauces 
of  some  of  these  were  deathfully  solemn,  and  their 
voices,  especially  when  mingled  in  general  response, 
of  a deep  sepulchral  tone. 

In  their  intercourse  with  each  other,  they  evince 
a cheerfulness  and  apparent  affection,  which  is  seldom 
found  among  European  sailors.  It  is  true,  there  is 
much  less  distinction  between  the  officers  and  com- 
mon sailors,  and  much  more  liberty  taken  by  the 
latter,  than  in  the  generahty  of  other  vessels ; but 
every  object  of  subordination  is  gained;  and  though 
rather  sportful,  the  command  is  obeyed  with  prompt 
activity.  Deluded  men ! they  express  a belief  that 
all  Christians  are  to  be  converted  to  their  faith,  and 
that,  Avithin  two  centuries  from  the  present.  I could 
almost  wish  for  the  gift  of  tongues,  to  be  the  instru- 
ment of  teaching  them  their  error,  and  pointing  them 
to  the  only  Saviour,  whose  spreading  kingdom  will 
blot  the  very  name  of  their  deceiver  from  under  hea- 
ven, doubtless  much  within  their  specified  period. 
Some  of  them  to  whom  Arabic  Bibles  were  offered, 
received  them  with  pleasure,  and  devoted  much  time 
to  their  examination.  They  soon  discovered  the  in- 
consistency between  the  practice  of  nominal  Chris- 
tians, and  the  precepts  of  the  Saviour. 

Our  room  was  consecrated  to  the  worship  of  the 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


203 


true  God,  and  the  sacrifice  of  morning  and  evening 
praise  offered.  The  usual  exercises  of  the  Sabbath 
were  also  maintained.  On  all  these  occasions,  the 
captain,  the  only  European  on  board,  attended. 

For  probably  half  of  the  passage,  we  had  the  coast 
of  the  Malayan  peninsula,  and  the  neighboring 
islands  in  view.  The  former  is  a range  of  abrupt, 
irregular  hills,  flanked  in  many  places  by  peaks  of  the 
same  character,  though  of  different  altitudes,  and 
presenting  an  appearance,  which  might  be  easily  mis- 
taken by  the  distant  observer  for  towers,  pagodas, 
minarets,  fortifications  and  castles.  On  the  way  we 
were  frequently  struck  with  the  sun  set  splendors  of 
the  heavens,  and  led  to  admire  the  glories  of  that 
Being,  of  whom  his  most  lovely  works  are  but  the 
faintest  reflection. 

On  Thursday,  30th  June,  1831,  we  arrived  at  , 
the  bar,  off  the  mouth  of  the  Meinam,  and  anchored. 
The  coast  of  Siam  is  so  low,  that  at  the  usual  dis- 
tance of  the  horizon  at  sea,  you  can  distinguish  it 
only  by  perceiving  that  there  is  a roughness,  with  no 
undulation.  English  vessels  are  obliged  by  the  treaty 
with  that  government,  to  wait  here  for  a pilot.  It  is 
said  to  be  impossible  for  large  ships  to  cross  the  bar, 
except  at  -the  highest  tides — the  water  seldom  exceed- 
ing eighteen  feet,  and  rising  at  times  not  above  twelve 
or  fourteen.  Understanding  that  the  pilot  would  not 
be  on  board  within  a week,  we  left  the  ship  on  Satur- 


204 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


day  in  the  jolly  boat,  for  Banlok.  About  five  o’clock, 
we  reached  Paknam,  a small  village  some  three  or 
four  miles  from  the  shore  of  the  sea. 

The  Siamese  have  attempted  to  render  the  river 
impassable  to  foreign  invaders.  A barrier  of  large 
piles,  a number  of  yards  in  width,  runs  from  one 
bank  to  the  other,  with  the  exception  of  a narrow 
passage-way  for  vessels ; each  shore  is  lined  with 
a battery ; and  a large  fortification  or  castle  has 
been  erected  in  the  stream,  to  command  the  approach, 
as  well  as  prevent  the  passage  of  the  place.  The 
appearance  of  this  castle,  with  a small  spiral  pagoda 
or  monument,  at  a short  distance,  is  imposing  and 
beautiful. 

It  was  our  intention  to  pass  Paknam,  withotit 
stopping ; but  the  king’s  officers  hailed  us,  and  the 
governor  detained  the  captain  about  an  hour.  The 
old  gentleman  made  the  best  of  the  time  in  asking 
such  questions  and  offering  such  remarks  as  his  curi- 
osity, and,  which  is  much  more  insatiable,  his  cupidi- 
ty, dictated.  During  this  interview,  the  passengers, 
who  remained  in  the  boat,  afforded  considerable 
amusement  to  the  natives,  by  partaking  of  a cold 
repast.  We  prevailed  upon  them  to  taste  the  biscuit 
and  beer,  on  which  we  were  feasting,  and  received, 
in  return,  shell-fish  and  segars,  made  of  a dried  leaf, 
rolled  up,  and  inclosing  a little  cut  tobacco.  Many 
of  the  men  were  muscular,  and  symmetrical  in  form 


SIAM. 


205 


— probably  selected  for  the  service,  in  which  they  are 
engaged. 

The  Siamese  shave  the  head,  except  on  the  crown, 
where  they  allow  the  hair  to  grow  sufficiently  long  to 
give  it  the  uprightness  and  apparent  rigidity  of 
bristles.  Their  dress  is  intended  merely  for  the  pur- 
pose of  the  fig  leaf;  the  limbs  and  upper  part  of 
the  body  being  exposed.  Among  the  males,  from  the 
king  to  his  meanest  subject,  there  is  no  additional 
garment.  The, women  are  almost  as  denuded  as  the 
men.  The  more  decent  wear  a kerchief  over  the 
shoulders  and  breasts,  though  in  many  cases,  even 
this  is  thrown  aside,  and  where  retained,  it  often 
answers  no  purpose  of  delicacy.  It  is  an  universal 
custom  with  both  sexes  to  chew  the  betel  and  cere, 
and  from  early  youth  to  the  most  decrepid  age  there 
is  scarcely  a male  exception  to  the  habit  of  smoking. 
Between  the  two  customs  the  jaws  are  seldom  allowed 
to  rest. 

From  Paknam  to  Bankok,  the  distance  is  probably 
twenty-five  or  thirty  miles.  We  left  the  former,place 
about  six  in  the  evening,  and  arrived  at  half-past 
twelve.  On  the  way,  we  were  entertained  with  many 
objects  of  interest  and  novelty. 

The  Meinam  is  a noble  river — probably  half  a mile 
in  average  width,  and  sufficiently  deep  to  admit  to 
Bankok  the  largest  ships  which  can  pass  the  bar. 
Its  banks  are  low,  and  covered  with  jungle.  As  we 
18 


206 


SIAM. 


proceeded,  we  found  the  lights  on  the  shore  nume- 
rous in  places,  and  were  convinced  from  their  re- 
flection in  the  river,  that  the  houses  were  built  upon 
piles  or  rafts.  In  one  or  two  places  our  ears  were 
saluted  with  music,  which  came  over  the  water,  at 
this  late  and  silent  hour,  with  a soothing  melody. 
The  instruments  were  chiefly  on  the  percussion  prin- 
ciple, and  the  soft  and  delicate  harmony  of  their 
notes  fofmed  a perfect  contrast  to  the  harsh  strains 
with  which  we  had  been  tortured  in  China.  But  the 
objects  of  our  greatest  admiration,  were  the  swarms  of 
fire-flies  on  each  shore,  and  passing  from  one  side  of 
the  river  to  the  other.  Though  not  to  be  compared  in 
size  or  brilliancy  to  the  famed  lantern-fly  (fulgora 
laternaria)  of  South  America,  described  by  Madame 
Merian ; still 

“ Innutnerous  tribes 

From  the  wood-cover  swarmed,  and  darkness  made 
Their  beauties  visible  ; one  while  they  streamed 
A bright  blue  radiance  upon  flowers  that  closed 
Their  gorgeous  colors  from  the  eye  of  day  ; 

Now  motionless  and  dark,  eluded  search, 

Self-shrouded,  and  anon  starring  the  sky, 

Rose  like  a shower  of  fire.”  * 

Thousands  of  these  insects  would  light  together 
on  one  tree,  and  give  it  a most  beautiful  and  vivid 
illumination.  There  appeared  to  be  a complete  uni- 
formity in  the  motions  of  them  all, — so  that  the  glare 


Southey’s  Madoc. 


SIAM. 


207 


I would  break  forth  and  close  in,  as  though  they 
I inhaled  a common  breath,  or  emitted  their  light  by 

j some  other  simultaneous  impulse.  It  required  no 

I stretch  of  fancy  to  imagine  ourselves  in  those  fairy 
regions  of  which  we  had  heard  in  childhood,  and 
especially  as  we  were  inclined  to  indulge  in  transient 
slumbers,  and  would  frequently  awake  from  forget- 
fulness to  the  novel  and  dreaming  pictures  around  us. 

In  one  place,  where  the  natives  were  on  the  look- 
\ out,  and  where,  we  have  since  ascertained,  there  is  a 
I fort,  we  were  hailed,  and  asked  a number  of  questions. 

I Having  obtained  permission  to  proceed,  we  did  not 
i stop,  but  told  them  our  destination,  and  heeded  not, 

I neither  understood  their  cries. 

Before  we  left  the  ship,  we  visited  one  of  the 
Chinese  junlfs,  waiting  on  the  bar  for  a favorable 
wind,  and  were  much  disappointed  to  learn  that 
Guttzlaflf  had  sailed,  but  a few  days  before,  for  China. 
As  there  were  Christian  books  in  the  junks,  and 
some  of  the  sailors  were  well  acquainted  with  his 
history,  there  was  little  reason  to  doubt  the  correct- 
ness of  the  statement.  We  were  thus  prepared  to 
hear,  that  he  had  actually  embarked  on  the  expedi- 
tion in  which  his  heart  has  been  absorbed,  and  for 
which  Divine  Providerfce  had  now  opened  a way. 

Soon  after  midnight  we  reached  the  residence  of 
Seignor  Carlos  de  Silveira,  the  Portuguese  consul,  who 
received  us  with  much  kindness  and  hospitality.  This 


208 


SIAM. 


gentleman  entertained  the  missionaries  during  the 
early  part  of  their  first  visit — assigned  them  a house 
6n  his  own  lands — and  when  they  were  opposed  by 
the  Catholics,  and  through  them,  by  the  native  autho- 
rities, continued  their  warm  friend,  notwithstanding 
the  threatened  loss  of  all  his  property,  and  the  menace 
of  expulsion  from  the  Siamese  dominions.  The  same 
disinterested  kindness  has  ever  been  evinced  by 
R.  Hunter,  Esq.,  the  only  English  merchant  in  the 
place,  who  in  the  time  of  their  greatest  trial  received 
the  missionaries  into  his  house,  and  exerted  all  his  in- 
fluence on  their  behalf — determined  to  risk  every  thing 
rather  than  have  them  driven  from  the  kingdom.  Mr. 
H.  remains  in  the  country,  and  will  no  doubt  ever 
render  the  missionaries  all  the  assistance  which  his 
well  known  character,  and  the  rank  the  king  has  con- 
ferred upon  him,  enable  him  to  aSbrd. 


CHAPTER  X. 


SIAM  CONTINUED. 

In  his  first  visit,  the  \vriter  spent  six  months  at 
Siam,  which  time  was  devoted  to  the  study  of  the 
Chinese  and  Siamese  languages,  and  to  the  ordinary 
duties  of  the  mission.  A few  general  remarks,  found- 
ed upon  the  information  obtained  at  th-at  time,  and 
corrected  and  enlarged  by  a succeeding  visit,  will 
give  the  reader  some  idea  of  the  place  and  its  inhabit- 
ants. 

The  country,  as  far  as  it  regards  scenery  and  im- 
provements, is  extremely  uninteresting.  There  is  not 
a hill — scarcely  a mound,  to  interrupt  the  dead  level, 
which  spreads  in  a wide  compass  around  the  capital. 
The  soil  is  exceedingly  productive ; it  surpasses  in 
the  rich  variety,  and  abundance  of  its  fruits,  nearly 
all  the  adjacent  regions,  and  is  probably  not  surpassed 
by  any  country  of  the^east.* 

• Besides  its  more  valuable  productions,  Siam  abounds  in  the 
most  delicious  fruits  of  the  east,  plantains,  oranges,  shadachs,  du- 
rians, the  bread  fruit,  and  above  all,  the  mangosteen  and  mango, 
in  the  greatest  perfection. 


18^ 


210 


SIAM. 


Banliok,  the  capital,  is  situated  upon  the  Meinam. 
The  palaces  of  the  two  kings,  and  of  some  of  the 
princes,  are  inclosed  within  a wall,  while  the  suburbs 
extend  probably  two  or  three  miles  above  and  below 
the  royal  residences,  and  on  each  side  of  the  river. 
As  the  houses  are  generally  situated  upon  the  water, 
or  near  its  edge,  the  river  may  be  considered  the 
highway,  the  mart  and  the  pleasure-grounds  of  the 
city.  Here  the  mass  of  the  population  reside,  carry 
on  their  business,  and  take  their  recreation.  The 
most  projecting  row  of  houses  is  built  upon  bamboo 
rafts,  and  moored  or  secured  to  fixtures  upon  shore. 
Of  course  their  locality  can  be  changed  without  diffi- 
culty, and  sometimes,  without  the  concurrence  of  the 
inmates.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  see  them  come 
floating  down  the  stream  with  all  their  contents,  set 
adrift,  perhaps,  by  ships  in  their  vicinity,  and  carrying 
away,  in  their  turn,  those  against  which  they  may  be 
driven  by  the  impulse  first  received,  or  the  eddies  into 
which  they  are  whirled. 

Those  houses  situated  nearer  the  shore,  or  partly 
on  the  bank  of  the  river,  are  founded  upon  piles  rais- 
ed above  the  rise  of  the  tides.  These  are  generally 
inhabited,  although  some  of  the  best  of  them  are  used 
as  cool  retreats  for  the  kings  and  men  of  wealth,  who 
live  on  shore.  In  many  places,  the  dwellings  retire 
some  distance  from  the  margin  of  the  river,  and  either 
form  a narrow  extended  street,  as  on  the  city  side  of 


SIAM. 


211 


the  water;  or  branch  oflf  toward  the  interior;  or  are 
scattered  over  the  face  of  the  country,  amid  gardens, 
jungle  and  rice  fields.  There  are  many  interesting 
and  varying  views  as  you  pass  up  the  winding  course 
of  the  Meinam.  The  finest  specimens  of  architec- 
ture are  the  temples,  which  generally  occupy  the  best 
sites,  and  with  the  array  of  monastic  buildings  attach- 
ed to  them,  cover  a large  area  of  ground.  These  and 
the  palaces,  glittering  with  gold  and  other  ornaments, 
with  a few  mansions  belonging  to  the  princes,  re- 
ceive no  trifling  part  of  their  apparent  magnificence 
from  the  contiguity  and  contrast  of  the  mean  huts 
composing  the  remainder  of  the  city. 

In  passing  along  the  river,  the  mind  is  easily  de- 
luded into  the  idea  of  many  rural  beauties  on  shore. 
A variety  of  palms,  the  bread  fruit,  the  silk  cotton,  (JBom- 
bax  cliba)  the  tamarind,  with  a profusion  of  other  less 
majestic,  though  equally  valuable  trees — all  flourishing 
in  this  congenial  soil,  and  blooming  in  the  richest  luxu- 
riance, appear  like  factitious  groves,  and  arbors,  and 
parks ; while  the  houses  and  temples,  peeping  through 
self-formed  avenues,  are  mistaken  for  dwellings  of 
taste  and  comfort.  But  the'^ce  is  disenchanted  of 
its  beauty,  when  you  touch  your  feet  upon  the  shore. 
The  temples  excepted,  where  some  little  pains  and 
ingenuity  are  displayed,  every  thing  is  improvable, 
but  nothing  improved.  Neither  order,  convenience, 


SIAM. 


212 


ornament,  nor  comfort,  are  consulted  in  the  situation 

I 

and  structure  of  their  houses. 

In  and  near  the  city,  a few  streets  have  been  laid 
out,  while  in  many  parts,  instead  of  accommodating  the 
houses  to  any  line  of  roads,  the  roads  or  paths  are  in- 
terrupted and  bent  in  almost  every  direction,  by  the 
encroachment  of  the  buildings.  The  want  of  roads 
and  good  foot-paths,  and  almost  all  conveniences  for 
out-door  exercise,  is  one  of  the  most  serious  objections 
to  a residence  in  Siam.  The  natives,  like  their  god 
Budh,  appear  to  luxuriate  in  indolence,  and  conse- 
quently, when  obliged  to  move,  are  contented  with  the 
most  passive  modes  of  locomotion.  The  rivers, 
creeks,  and  canals,  are  so  numerous,  that  they  can  go 
in  boats  to  almost  every  place,  where  business  or 
pleasure  calls  them. 

There  are  many  points  of  painful  interest  con- 
nected with  the  state  of  society  in  Siam.  Its  popula- 
tion, consisting  of  four  or  five  millions  of  souls,  is 
made  up  of  Siamese,  natives  of  Laos,  Cambojians,  Pe- 
guins,  Malays,  Burmese,  descendants  of  Portuguese, 
Cochin-Chinese,  and  Chinamen. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Chinese,  who  pay  a 
triennial  capitation  sum,  this  whole  population  is 
divided  into  two  classes — such  as  are  bound  to  per- 
petual slavery,  and  those  who  are  submitted  to  a ser- 
vice tax  of  a portion  of  their  time.  The  former  are 


1 


I SIAM.  213 

! either  conquered  enemies,  'from  the  country  of  Laos 
I and  the  Malayan  Peninsula,  or  stolen  subjects  from 
the  frontiers  of  Burmah  and  Pegit.  Twenty  thousand 
Laos  captives  were  transferred  at  one  time  from  their 
I native  land,  and  distributed  among  the  Siamese  prin- 
ces, and  men  of  authority.  These  poor  creatures  are 
more  oppressed  than  all  their  fellow  slaves.  As  you 
enter  the  palaces  of  the  kings,  or  mansions  of  the 
great  men,  it  is  distressing  to  witness  women  and 
men  of  every  age,  toiling  in  fetters,  as  though  the 
clank  of  their  chains  was  music  in  the  ears  of  their 
t cruel  lords.  The  reason  assigned  for  such  inhuman- 
j ity,  is  the  fear  of  their  escape ; but  one  is  strongly 
i tempted  to  believe,  from  this  and  other  cruelties  equal- 
* ly  revolting,  that  they  estimate  their  own  importance, 
I as  much  by  the  misery  as  the  multiplicity  of  their 
I slaves.  Many  of  this  class,  having  no  engage- 
I ments  at  home,  are  sent  out  to  labor  for  the  benefit 
I of  their  masters  ; some  of  whom  own  several  thou- 
l sands,  and  derive  considerable  emolument  from  their 
I services. 

[ It  is  not  uncommon  to  expose  these  unfortunate 
I beings  to  sale,  often  at  the  most  reduced  prices,  and 
to  have  them  purchased  by  even  the  otficers  of  gov- 
( ernment,  for  a traffic  as  vile  as  the  deepest  depravity 
could  suggest.  Numbers  of  females  are  daily  sent 
forth  in  the  most  disgraceful  capacity,  and  if  they  do 
not  return  at  night  with  a sum  fixed  by  their  masters, 


214 


SIAM. 


they  are  often  cruelly  beaten.  If  they  refuse  this 
odious  life — and  some  of  them  have  spurned  its  debase- 
ment— the  master  is  quite  at  liberty  in  the  mode  and 
measure  of  the  punishment.  To  the  number  of  slaves 
already  mentioned,  must  be  added  the  children,  whom 
the  alleged  necessities  of  their  parents  oblige  them 
to  sell  and  who  are  bought  for  any  purpose  which 
their  covetous  or  licentious  masters  may  choose. 

The  class  referred  to,  who  are  submitted  to  a ser- 
vice tax  of  part  of  their  time,  includes  all  the  other  in- 
habitants of  the  country,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Chinese.  Even  the  natives  of  Siam,  and  the  nominal 
Christians,  descendants  of  Portuguese,  are  among  the 
number.  These,  with  some  exceptions  of  the  more 
wealthy,  are  reduced  to  a state  of  partial  slavery, 
being  obliged  to  employ  much  of  their  time  in  the 
kings  service,  and  receiving  for  their  labor  the  small- 
est compensation.  If  they  are  not  so  fortunate  as  to 
lay  by  a small  store  during  their  liberty  for  this  hour 
of  need,  or  if  their  wives  and  children  are  unsuccess- 
ful in  a petty  trade,  by  which  many  of  them  subsist, 
they  and  their  families  are  reduced  to  the  greatest 
straits. 

By  the  laws  of  the  land,  or  the  neglect  of  their 
administration,  they  are  allowed  to  pilfer  from  the 
poor  hucksters  such  eatables  as  their  necessities  re- 
quire, and  their  strength  can  secure.  The  Chinese 
who  sell  vegetables  and  fruit,  complain  bitterly  of  this 


I 


I SIAM,  216 

» 

custom — redress  is  out  of  the  question.  Some  of  this 

i class  have  very  little  or  no  time  to  themselves — others 
have  the  liberty  of  one-third,  one-half,  and  two-thirds 
I of  the  year  by  what  particular  rules  of  difference,  I am 
not  informed.  Those  slaves  and  subjects  allotted  by 
the  king  to  the  princes  and  officers  of  government, 
have  the  names  of  their  masters  written  upon  their 
arms,  and  are  quite  at  their  control. 

The  more  respectable  and  wealthy,  mentioned  as 

(exceptions  to  this  system  of  service  taxation,  are  ex- 
ceptions only  to  a limited  extent.  They  are  either 
i employed  as  civil  or  military  officers  in  his  majesty’s 

1 service,  ^or  are  obliged  to  procure  a substitute  for 
their  own  bodily  labor.  In  fact,  with  all  their  boast 
I of  freedom — and  freemen  is  the  appellation  by  which 

I the  nation  is  known,  in  their  own  language,  Siam 
is  a land  of  slaves  ; the  king  is  the  only  exception  to 
I universal  vassalage.  His  majesty  can  employ  any 
I subject,  upon  any  business,  for  any  length  of  time,  un- 
der any  circumstances,  and  upon  any  conditions.  A 
portion  of  almost  every  day  is  spent  by  the  officers 
1 and  the  princes,  in  lying  prostrate  before  him,  and 
awaiting  his  pleasure. 

j The  Chinese  have  been  mentioned  as  enjoying 
g more  liberty,  and  greater  advantages  than  others. 
Even  these  groan  under  the  burden  of  taxes,  and 
^ when  convicted  of  crime,  often  unjustly  as  they  affirm, 
jj  they  are  made  to  expiate  their  guilt  by  manual  labor, 


216 


SIAM. 


continued  beyond  all  bounds  of  equitable  punishment. 
Many  of  them,  while  toiling  daily,  and  throughout  the 
day,  for  the  king,  are  thrown  for  their  sustenance  upon 
the  mercy  of  their  friends,  or  the  charities  of  the  pub- 
lic, or  those  dishonorable  measures  which  the  starving 
in  his  majesty’s  service  are  allowed  to  employ. 

As  a necessary  consequence  of  these  oppressive 
customs,  poverty  is  a common  evil.  The  great  mass 
of  the  inhabitants  have  barely  enough  to  support  their 
existence,  and  that  upon  the  most  simple  fare.  During 
the  term  of  service  required  by  their  masters,  they 
scarcely  receive  sufficient  for  their  individual  main- 
tenance,— and  even  their  own  time,  when  made  avail- 
able to  private  interest,  is  not  secure  from  an  arbitrary 
call  to  extra  service,  or  war.  At  one  season  of  the  year 
crowds  of  boats  are  moored  abreast  of  the  palace. 
These  belong  to  men  who  reside  in  the  country,  and 
are  annually  called  from  their  homes  and  rice  fields, 
to  spend  two  or  three  months  in  practicing  the  art  of 
gracefully  paddling  the  king’s  boats.  During  all  this 
term  of  useless  service,  they  are  under  the  necessity  of 
supporting  themselves,  and  neglecting  their  families. 

The  misery  of  the  nation  is  increased  by  the  cor- 
rupt administration  of  justice.  Many  of  the  laws  are 
equitable,  but  alas,  they  are  only  imperative  when  the 
judge  can  make  them  answer  an  individual  end.  Of 
the  unwritten  statutes,  which,4ike  the  traditions  of 
the  elders,  are  the  only  onis^^eemed  practical,  the 


SIAM. 


2ir 


most  imperative  law  is  the  royal  nod, — the  next  ob- 
ligatory one  is  the  pleasure  of  his  prime  minister ; and 
so  through  the  descending  scale  of  official  rank,  the 
superior  has  the  control  of  the  ihferior,  and  his  will 
the  precedence  of  the  litera  scrtpta. 

From  the  throne  to  the  lowest  bench  of  justice, 
the  all-absorbing  object  is  self-aggrandizement.  Even 
the  monarch  appears  to  regard  his  own  interests  as 
perfectly  distinct  from  the  prosperity  of  his  subjects. 
In  times  of  scarcity,  it  is  frequently  the  case,  as  the 
writer  has  witnessed,  that  no  provision  is  made  for  the 
suffering  poor,  when  it  might  be  effected  with  the  least 
cost  or  trouble.  In  fact,  such  is  the  sovereignty  of 
money,  that  multitudes  prefer  putting  up  with  indigni- 
ties and  losses — for  which  the  law  according  to  its  let- 
ter and  intention  would  allow  redress — rather  than  be 
compelled  by  necessary  bribes,  or  an  unjust  decision, 
to  risk  the  endurance  of  additional  suffering  by  an 
appeal  to  justice. 

Beside  the  evils  specified,  over  which  the  common 
people  have  no  control,  there  are  others  of  a moral 
nature,  which  greatly  aggravate  their  present  suffer- 
ings. Among  these,  is  the  abuse  of  the  marriage 
contract,  with  its  train  of  complicated  miseries.  Po- 
lygamy is  in  high  vogue.  The  king’s  seraglio  con- 
tains between  five  hundred  and  one  thousand  women  ; 
and  all  the  princes,  in  fact  the  whole  kingdom,  have 
no  other  limitation  to  numbers,  than  their  wishes  and 

19 


218 


SIAM. 


wealth.  The  poorer  classes  are  of  course  restricted 
by  necessity,  and  one  evil  is  thus  checked  by  another. 

Connected  with  this  multiplication  of  wives,  and 
its  consequent  relaxation  of  all  the  ties  of  kindred  and 
affection,  there  are  other  prevalent  customs  in  Siam, 
quite  as  fatal  to  human  happiness.  A man  who  is 
unsuccessful  in  gambling,  or  reduced  to' poverty  by 
other  means,  may  sell  his  wife — with  the  liberty  of 
redeeming  her,  for  the  same  sum  and  her  additional 
expenses ; or  if  his  admiration  of  her  good  qualities 
ceases,  he  may  put  her  away  and  procure  another. 
If  the  wife  was  purchased — a common  substitute  for 
courtship — and  has  no  children,  there  is  generally  no 
difficulty  in  dissolving  the  connection.  If  she  be  able 
to  pay  the  amount  of  her  original  purchase,  she  may 
have  the  same  advantage  over  her  husband.  In  ordi- 
nary cases,  however,  the  concurrence  of  both  parties 
is  so  far  necessary,  that  the  rejected  one,  whose  con- 
sent has  not  been  obtained,  can  claim  a support,  or 
a sura  of  money  as  an  indemnification. 

A man  who  fancies  the  wife  of  another,  can  gene- 
rally obtain  her,  if  his  dignity  or  wealth  gives  him 
the  advantage  of  her  husband.  And  a creditor,  if  he 
can  get  nothing  else,  can  take  the  wife  and  children 
of  the  insolvent.  If  the  happiness  of  individuals  and 
society  at  large  depend  upon  the  inviolable  sanctity 
of  the  marriage  contract,  which  its  very  institution 
would  proclaim,  it  will  readily  be  believed  that  such 


SIAM. 


219 


an  abuse  of  all  that  is  sacred  in  the  most  important 
relation  of  life,  must  prove  fatal  to  every  thing  but  the 
mere  semblance  of  domestic  enjoyment. 

Gambling  is  another  source  of  depravity  and 
wretchedness  in  Siam.  The  king  derives  a large  reve- 
nue from  this  licensed  evil,  and  tiie  demoniacal  spirit 
it  engenders,  and  the  dreadful  crimes  it  instigates, 
prove  it  to  be  a moral  maelstrom,  where  the  happiness 
and  hopes  of  thousands  are  lost  forever. 

The  shameless  indecency  of  language  and  dress^ 
the  latter  of  which  has  been  referred  to,  is  also  pro- 
ductive of  great  evils.  The  most  common  epithets 
of  abuse  in  the  kingdom  would  shock  vulgarity  itself 
in  civilized  countries,  and  yet  this  is  the  language 
employed  by  high  and  low,  men  and  women,  from 
the  angry  mother  to  her  suckling,  and  from  the 
stammering  child  to  its  offending  paren  t.  You  seldom 
go  abroad,  or  have  a company  pass  your  dwelling, 
without  hearing  the  vilest  terms  mixed  up  with  ex- 
pressions of  anger,  and  gracing  every  effort  at  pleas- 
antry. 

Beside  these  prevalent  evils,  lying,  cheating  and 
pilfering  are  exceedingly  common — robbery  and  mur- 
der by  no  means  rare.  Those  who  have  commercial 
dealings  with  them,  declare  that  dishonesty  and  deceit 
are,  with  the  fewest  exceptions,  characteristic  of  the 
nation.  The  meanness  of  the  great  to  obtain  favors, 
especially  from  foreigners,  is  despicable.  They  will 


220 


SIAM. 


accept  any  thing  as  a present,  and  offer  nothing  worth 
receiving  in  return — they  will  crave  most  importu- 
nately, and  often  cringingly,  what  they  know  you 
want — they  will  buy,  and  frequently  endeavor  to 
cheat  the  seller  out  of  much  of  the  stipulated  sum— 
they  will  borrow,  and  never  return — and  when  they 
can  get  nothing  more  from  you,  without  they  desire 
your  society  as  amusement,  they  never  come  near  you. 

This  picture  of  the  political  and  moral  condition 
of  Siam  is  dark.  As  far,  however,  as  a careful  and 
minute  examination  can  favor  correctness,  it  is  deli- 
neated with  justice.  It  has  its  light  shades,  and  those 
who  have'.but  a partial  acquaintance  with  the  place 
may  suppose  that  we  give  it  too  deep  a coloring,  with- 
out considering  that  they  behold  it  only  in  its  most 
favorable  aspect,  and  through  a flattering  medium. 

Some  of  the  more  pleasing,  and  to  a hasty  inspec- 
tion, discernable  shades  of  the  picture,  we  have  hinted 
at.  One  is  the  large  number  of  CFiinese,  whose  con- 
dition is  better  than  their  fellow-citizens,  and  who 
make  an  important  figure  in  the  business  of  the  place. 
Another  is  the  undue  proportion  of  princes,  who,  like 
the  feudal  barons  of  old,  move  about  in  considerable 
style,  and  impress  the  mind  with  some  idea  of  their 
importance.  A third  is  the  overwhelming  number  of 
riests,  whose  office  gives  them  immunities,  such  as  ho- 
nor without  respectability,  and  support  without  labor. 

Beside  these,  the  majority  of  the  common  people, 


SIAM. 


221 


who  occupy  the  most  conspicuous  houses,  are  the 
fortunate  class  of  tradesmen  and  shop-keepers,  from 
whose  prosperity  it  would  be  as  unwise  to  deduce  an 
opinion  of  the  general  condition  of  the  people,  as  to 
take  the  most  successful  merchants  at  home,  as  a cri- 
terion of  the  wealth  of  the  community  at  large.  An- 
other light  shade  to  the  sketch,  which,  however,  is  but 
a reflection,  is  the  exceeding  productiveness  of  the 
country,  and  of  course  the  cheapness  of  the  neces- 
saries of  life. 

These  things  being  the  most  obvious  to  those  who 
pay  a transient  visit  to  the  place,  who  know  nothing 
of  the  language,  and  have  no  opportunity  of  witness- 
ing the  interior  of  society,  they  imagine,  as  they  do 
in  regard  to  other  heathen  countries,  that  the  people 
are  happy,  and  that  western  refinement  and  religion 
would  not  improve  their  condition. 

The  religion  of  Siam  is  Buddhistic.  From  the 
best  authorities  there  are  more  than  twenty  thousand 
priests  in  the  kingdom,  of  whom,  one-half  or  two- 
thirds  reside  in  Bankok,  and  its  vicinity.  The  tem- 
ples are  built  at  the  expense  of  the  king,  or  the  prin- 
cipal men  in  the  kingdom.  His  majesty  has  shown 
himself  peailiarly  zealous  in  the  maintenance  of  the 
state  religion.  He  has  many  temples,  with  their  con- 
nected monasteries,  under  his  own  patronage,  which 
are  called  by  his  name,  and  supported  by  his  royal 
bounty.  These  occupy  the  best  grounds,  and  are 
19* 


222 


SIAM. 


built  in  a style  of  splendor,  with  which  nothing  but 
the  palace  corresponds. 

For  the  support  of  the  priests,  a monthly  allow- 
ance of  rice  and  money  is  made  from  the  public  trea- 
sury. In  connection  with  this,  they  enjoy  not  only 
the  religious  merits,  but  the  temporal  advantages  of 
mendicity.  Every  morning  they  sally  forth  to  collect 
the  alms  of  the  people,  and  generally  succeed  in 
Srettins:  enough  for  themselves,  and  a host  of  human 
and  canine  pensioners,  whom  their  charity  attracts 
from  every  quarter.  The  rarest  delicacies  of  the 
season  are  among  the  gifts  with  which  they  are 
loaded ; and  the  women,  who  appear  by  far  the  most 
devout,  never  visit  the  temples  without  carrying  such 
presents  as  their  circumstances  will  admit. 

The  priesthood  is  supplied  by  men  of  all  classes 
in  society.  The  temples  or  monasteries  are  the  only 
schools  of  learning  in  the  kingdom,  and  as  education 
is  very  prevalent,  there  is  scarcely  an  individual  Avho 
does  not  pass  some  portion  of  his  life  in  these  estab- 
ments.  Admittance  may  be  gained  on  the  most  easy 
terms.  Any  person  may  enter  who  can  show  that  he 
has  an  official  release  from  the  service  tax,  is  not  in 
debt,  and  has  the  consent  of  parents  or  wife.  Each 
may  remain  as  long  as  he  pleases,  and  become  secu- 
larized at  option.  "When  provisions  are  dear,  many 
avail  themselves  of  this  easy  mode  of  support,  and 
while  necessity  presses  or  indolence  prompts,  they 


SIAM. 


223 


enjoy  all  the  honors  and  profits  of  the  yellow  robe. 
A large  number  take  upon  themselves  the  monastic 
vow  for  life,  and  spend  all  their  days  in  the  pre- 
scribed round  of  secular  and  sacerdotal  duties. 

Tlie  elders  teach  their  younger  brethren,  preach  at 
the  pagodas,  or  in  private  houses,  solemnize  mar- 
riages, attend  at  funerals,  consecrate  new  houses,  shave 
the  heads  of  children,  perform  certain  offices  for  the 
recovery  of  the  sick  and  the  absolution  of  the  dead, 
and  visit  those  scenes  where  their  sacred  presence 
and  magical  arts  are  deemed  necessary.  In  former 
days,  they  decided  difficult  cases  of  judicature  by  en- 
chantment ; but  since  Mammon  has  usurped  the 
throne  of  justice,  causes  are  found  less  complicated, 
and  the  priests’  services  are  superseded. 

The  greatest  show  of  respect  is  paid  to  the  priests. 
Even  the  king  bows  down  in  their  presence,  and 
the  common  people  show  them  the  same  sign  of 
adoration  with  which  they  honor  the  idols.  But  this 
respect  is  chiefly  nominal,  or  if  real,  it  is  to  the  robe, 
and  not  the  man.  His  majesty,  with  all  his  profes- 
sions of  inferiority,  reserves  unto  himself  the  right  of 
stripping  otf  this  sacred  garment,  and  punishing  the 
unworthy  wearer.  Some  time  ago  the  principal  priest 
or  pope  was  found  guilty  of  some  heinous  misdemea- 
nor, upon  which  he  w'^as  disrobed,  dishonored,  and 
made  a servant  to  the  royal  elephants.  The  chief  im- 
munities connected  with  the  priesthood  are  exemption 


224 


SIAM. 


from  service  tax  and  military  duties.  But  here  again, 
the  king  has  taken  liberties  upon  occasions,  and  shown 
that  his  will  and  interests  are  supeiior  to  all  the  laws 
and  rights  of  religion.  Some  years  ago,  many  in  the 
inferior  grades  of  sanctity  were  drafted  into  the 
army,  which  occasioned  among  them  the  most  tur- 
bulent commotion.  It  ended  in  a partial  rebellion — a 
purpose  and  scheme  to  assassinate  the  king,  and  final- 
ly in  the  apprehension  of  seven  hundred  of  their  owm 
number. 

With  but  few  restraints,  and  surrounded  by  objects 
of  temptation,  it  is  rather  surprising,  that  any  of  them 
should  maintain  a consistent  conduct ; such  is  the  case 
however,  with  a few  who  are  intelligent,  exemplary 
and  highly  esteemed,  though  the  majority  bear  a very 
different  character,  and  pursue  a disgraceful  course 
of  life. 

The  influence  of  all  this  display  of  idolatry  upon 
the  nation,  argues  very  little  in  favor  of  the  moral 
adv’^antases  of  Buddhism.  Those  who  are  the  most 
dishonest  in  the  means  they  adopt  to  secure  w'^ealth, 
are  often  the  most  liberal  supporters  of  the  priests  and 
their  mummeries.  In  fact,  a blind  and  nearly  equal 
reverence  for  the  priests  and  their  idols,  and  a due  re- 
gard to  the  temporal  w^ants  of  the  former,  is  the  main 
article — too  often  the  sum  of  their  practical  religion. 

The  religion  of  Burmah,  Pegu  and  Laos  being 
the  same,  the  natives  of  these  respective  countries. 


SIAM. 


225 


who  reside  in  Siam,  join  with  their  masters  in  their 
worship. 

The  Chinese  have  brought  tlieir  idols  and  notions 
with  them,  and  here,  as  at  home,  they  worship  their 
gods  for  temporal  favors,  and  express  their  reverence, 
only  by  “ sacrificing  to  their  own  net  and  drag.”  Many 
of  them  being  Buddhists,  they  readily  unite  with  the 
Siamese  if  an  end  can  be  gained. 

The  Malays  practice  a species  of  Islamism,  cor- 
rupted, probably,  with  some  of  the  ancient  rites  and 
customs  of  their  Pagan  forefathers.  They  are  ex- 
ceedingly noisy  in  their  devotions.  At  seasons 
whole  companies  of  them  spend  hours  at  a time  in 
trilling  out  loud,  and  long-drawn  cries.  The  voices 
of  infancy,  manhood,  and  decrepitude,  of  men  and 
women,  are  mingled  in  such  grating  and  boisterous 
strains,  as  quite  to  disturb  the  surrounding  region,  and 
interrupt  the  rest  of  a part  of  the  night. 

The  Portuguese  profess  a corrupt  Catholicism, 
which  symbolizes,  in  many  respects,  with  the  super- 
stitions of  their  Pagan  neighbors,  and  proves  quite 
as  inert  in  its  moral  influence.  There  are  about  one 
thousand  of  them,  who,  with  one  or  two  respectable 
exceptions,  are  as  deeply  sunk  in  mental  and  moral 
debasement,  as  the  lowest  class  of  Pagans  around 
them.  Destitute  of  the  force  of  truth  in  their  creed, 
of  morals  in  their  practice,  of  respectability  in  their 
character,  or  ev^en  of  pecuniary  show  in  their  exter- 


226 


SIAM. 


nal  circumstances ; their  religion  makes  the  least 
possible  progress  among  their  heathen  neighbors. 

The  deep  degradation,  and  scandalous  immo- 
ralities of  many  of  them,  are  such  as  to  stigma- 
tize the  Christian  name,  to  which  they,  as  well  as 
all  their  brethren  in  the  East,  most  pertinaciously 
cling. 

A person  may  form  some  idea  of  the  comparative 
reasonableness  of  these  different  religions,  without 
leavingf  the  house.  One  nigrht  he  hears  the  bells  and 
drums  of  Buddhism ; the  next,  the  wearisome  cando- 
ry  cries  of  the  Mussulmans  ; the  third,  the  gong, 
drums  and  squibs  of  the  Chinese  ; and  the  fourth,  the 
bells,  drums,  crackers,  and  guns  of  the  Catholics,  as 
though  determined  to  confound  the  confusion  of  them 
all,  and  bear  away  the  inglorious  palm. 

Until  very  recently,  nothing  was  attempted  by  the 
Protestant  world  for  the  moral  benefit  of  Siam.  The 
first  missionaries  who  visited  the  place,  belonged  to 
other  stations,  and  went  to  Siam  unsent  by  the 
churches  at  home.  Had  it  been  left  to  their  tardy 
operations,  the  probability  is,  that  the  kingdom  would 
still  have  been  supposed  inaccessible,  or  unimportant, 
as  a field  of  Christian  missions. 

In  the  autumn  of  1828,  Messrs.  Gutzlaff  and  Tom- 
lin arrived  at  Siam,  and  commenced  an  interesting 
aeries  of  labors,  in  the  joint  capacities  of  missionaries 
and  physicians.  Their  journals  are  before  the  Chris- 


SIAM. 


227 


tian  public.  Mr.  Tomlin  was  driven  from  the  place 
by  ill  health,  after  a residence  of  nine  months,  and 
Mr.  Gutzlaff  continued  the  duties  of  the  mission  for 
nearly  three  years.  During  this  time,  the  New  Tes- 
tament, an^  parts  of  the  Old,  were  translated  ; a voca- 
bulary was  formed,  and  two  or  three  religious  books 
written.  One  of  the  tracts  went  through  the  press, 
and  has  been  ciradated.  The  other  works  required 
revision  and  correction,  and,  owing  to  a train  of  pro- 
vidential obstacles,  have  not  been  printed  to  this  day_ 
Mr.  Gutzlaff  had  also  the  gratification  of  baptizing  a 
Chinaman,  who  had  renounced  his  idols,  and  hea- 
thenish customs,  and  who,  as  far  as  could  be  judged, 
had  been  made  “ a partaker  of  the  promise  in  Christ 
by  the  Gospel.” 

A few  days  after  the  departure  of  Mr.  Gutzlaff  for 
China,  Mr.  Tomlin  and  myself  reached  the  place. 
We  immediately  unpacked  our  books — the  published 
tract  spoken  of,  and  others  in  the  Chinese  language, 
opened  the  medical  depository,  engaged  teachers,  and 
commenced  work.  These  interesting  duties  were 
continued  six  months,  when  my  fellow  missionary  was 
called  away  to  another  sphere  of  labor ; and  I was 
obliged,  from  a declension  of  health,  to  try  the  eflFect 
of  a change  of  air  and  scene. 

The  narrative  of  events,  during  this  period,  has 
been  published.  Our  time  was  most  actively  em- 
ployed in  laboring,  to  the  extent  of  our  ability. 


228 


SIAM. 


and  in  extending  cur  ability  for  increased  exertion. 
Throngs  of  patients,  afflicted  with  almost  every  dis- 
ease, daily  applied  for  relief,  and  crowds  of  applicants 
for  books  soon  carried  away  our  entire  stock.  Of  the 
former  number,  many  were  greatly  benefited.  How 
far  our  spiritual  applications  were  productive  of  the 
great  object  of  our  hearts  and  hands,  was  not  so  de- 
finitely visible;  although  we  have  reason  to  believe, 
that  our  “ labors  were  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord.” 

A few  extracts  from  the  journal  kept  at  the  time 
will  give  an  idea  of  such  facts  as  were  thought  worthy 
of  memorizing.  f 

Monday  afternoon,  July  4th,  we  called,  with  our 
friend  Mr.  Silveira,  on  the  Prah  lilang,  the  director 
of  all  the  commercial  aflairs  of  Bankok,  and  one 
of  the  principal  ministers  of  state.  On  our  way  to 
his  establishment,  about  two  miles  from  our  present 
residence,  we  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  a part 
of  the  city,  and  its  suburbs.  For  a long  distance  the 
houses  are  built  on  rafts,  on  each  side  of  the  river, 
and  the  only  communication  is  m boats. 

The  dwellings  and  shops  are  constructed  of  a 
slender  material,  and  covered  with  attap.  Skiffs  are 
employed  by  the  natives,  for  transporting  their  per- 
sons, and  light  efifects.  These  are  so  exceedingly 
small  and  crazy,  that  their  progress  is  very  rapid,  and 
their  safety  precarious.  The  paddler  is  obliged  to  sit 
in  the  middle  and  on  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  and  even 


SIAM. 


229 


then,  his  life  is  endangered  by  the  least  want  of  skill, 
or  agitation  of  the  waves.* 

The  women,  like  those  in  China,  bear  a part  iu 
all  drudgery,  and  become  exceedingly  coarse,  and 
immodest  in  appearance  and  conversation. 

We  landed  abreast  of  the  Prah  Klang’s  dwelling, 
and  not  finding  him  at  home,  proceeded  a short  dis- 
tance to  a pagoda,  or  rather  a suit  of  buildings,  at 
which  he  has  been  occupied  for  the  last  seven  years. 
The  princes  and  men  of  office  generally  expend  part 
of  their  income  in  erecting  temples  and  supporting 
priests.  What  a reflection  upon  those  who,  knowing 
the  true  God,  and  possessing  abundant  means  for 
extending  that  knowledge,  neither  make  provision  for 
their  own  eternal  welfare,  nor  offer  their  abused  pri- 
vileges to  those  who  might  improve  them  ! 

We  were  apprised  of  approaching  the  presence 
of  the  Prah  Klang,  by  the  strange  actions  of  our  in- 
terpreter, a Portuguese  by  extraction,  and  the  only 
admitted  medium  of  communication  between  the 
great  man  and  foreigners.  When  he  saw  him,  though 
at  a distance  of  perhaps  twenty  or  thirty  yards,  he  bent 
his  body,  and  crept  along  like  a sportsman  approaching 
the  game  unobserved.  In  this  inclining  posture,  he 
continued  until  within  a few  yards  of  the  object  of  his 
reverence,  when  he  laid  himself  prostrate  on  the 

• Many  of  them  have  been  overturned  in  our  sight,  and  num- 
bers drowned  within  a short  distance  from  our  cottage. 

20 


230 


SIAM. 


ground,  and  waited  the  pleasure  of  his  superior.  We 
all  approached,  and  signified  the  respect  required 
of  foreigners — merely  taking  off  the  hat,  bowing,  and 
sitting  in  his  presence.  Independently  of  a well-con- 
ditioned body  held  in  an  erect  posture,  while  all  the 
workmen  and  attendants  walked  with  their  heads  as 
near  the  ground  as  possible,  there  was  nothing  to  dis- 
tinguish the  old  man  from  the  most  menial  of  his  train. 
His  person  was  entirely  bare,  with  the  exception  of  the 
cloth  referred  to,  and  there  was  nothing  in  the  texture 
of  that  which  even  attracted  our  attention. 

He  made  a number  of  inquiries  respecting  our  sev- 
eral offices,  and  especially  our  objects  in  visiting  Siam; 
and  appeared  satisfied  when  Mr.  Tomlin  mentioned 
that  he  and  myself  came  on  the  same  errand  which 
brought  Gutzlaff  and  himself  before.  But  that  our 
fellow  passenger,  Lieut.  Daniell,  should  have  come, 
merely  for  the  benefit  of  health,  was  quite  a paradox  to 
the  old  man.  The  idea  of  the  visit  of  a British  officer 
by  no  means  tended  to  allay  the  suspicions  and  fears 
with  which  the  Burmese  war  had  filled  their  neigh- 
bors. The  interview  soon  closed.  The  interpreter 
was  commanded  to  take  us  around,  and  show  us 
“ the  great  Babylon”  which  the  old  gentleman  W£is 
building,  and  part  of  which  he  assisted  us  to  ad- 
mire. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  we  breakfasted  with  Mr. 
McDonell,  the  only  European  merchant  in  Siam,  in 


SIAM. 


231 


the  absence  of  Mr.  Hunter,  and  afterward  went  to  the 
walls  of  the  palace,  to  see  the  objects  of  curiosity 
there.  Among  a number  of  the  largest  elephants  we 
ever  saw,  were  the  famed  white  ones  of  the  king, 
supposed  to  be  the  habitations  of  former  sovereigns, 
and  kept  with  the  greatest  care.  None  but  the  most 
honored  and  virtuous  are  thought  to  be  favored  after 
the  present  existence,  with  such  a rare  and  dignified 
residence.  Their  hue  is  far  from  being  white ; it  ap- 
proaches nearer  the  color  of  cream. 

We  walked  nearly  around  the  palace  walls;  but 
were  not  allowed  to  enter.  They  inclose  quite  an 
extensive  area,  and  from  the  roofs  and  spires,  appear 
to  contain  gaudy  and  commodious  buildings.  We 
visited  a large  pagoda,  surrounded  with  many  smaller 
apartments,  and  lofty  pillars.  Some  of  the  latter  were 
of  considerable  elevation.  The  principal  temple  was 
closed,  and  the  priests,  who  were  lying  about  on  their 
mats  in  the  other  buildings,  had  no  disposition  to 
gratify  our  curiosity.  One  of  them,  with  whom  we 
attempted  to  converse  on  the  folly  of  idol-worship, 
threatened  to  tell  the  King  that  we  were  defaming 
his  gods. 

Early  in  the  week  we  transferred  our  residence  to 
the  small  house  allotted  the  missionaries  by  our  hos- 
pitable friend.  It  stands  upon  poles,  beneath  which 
the  waters  constantly  flow,  and  though  humble  in 
appearance,  and  scanty  in  dimensions,  answers  all 


232 


SIAM. 


our  purposes.  Its  super-aqueous  situation  and  nume- 
rous crevices  render  it  delightfully  airy,  and  no  other 
object  is  of  equal  importance  in  the  summer  of  these 
tropical  regions. 

The  associations  of  the  place  are  solemn  and 
awakening.  But  a few  months  since,  its  doors  were 
opened  to  receive  our  brother  and  sister  in  this  mission. 
Now,  the  latter  lies  sleeping  in  death,  but  a short 
distance  from  us,  and  our  fellow-laborer  has  been 
called  away  to  other  scenes  of  exertion.  We  feel  im- 
pressed with  the  admonition,  “ what  thy  hand  findeth 
to  do,  do  it  with  thy  might.”  God  grant  us  grace  to 
improve  the  lesson  of  his  providence,  and  work  while 
the  day  lasts. 

25th. — Since  our  arrival,  the  medical  depository 
has  been  a scene  of  much  activity,  from  the  nume- 
rous calls  for  aid.  The  diseases  of  the  natives  are 
various  ; many  of  them  brought  upon  themselves  by 
their  iniquities,  and  some  of  a deep  and  desperate 
malignity.  Our  want  of  extensive  science  and  prac- 
tice, more  especially  my  own,  proves  rather  incon- 
venient in  cases  of  a complicated  nature ; but  gene- 
rally, and  at  times  strikingly,  our  prescriptions  are 
made  to  answer  the  desired  end. 

31st. — To-day,  a number  of  calls,  principally  for 
medicine.  One  of  the  applicants  was  a Siamese  of 
considerable  distinction.  Another  did  not  come  him- 
self, but  sent  his  servant  with  a very  polite  letter. 


SIAM. 


233 


The  former  evinced  much  confidence  in  our  prescrip- 
tions, and  could  scarcely  be  prevented  from  giving  us 
a recompense.  The  principal  grounds  of  our  refusal 
to  accept  remuneration  for  medicines,  are  the  impor- 
tance of  having  this  strong  argument  against  the 
devices  of  the  enemy,  and  the  suspicions  of  the  peo- 
ple ; and  the  unimportance  of  the  sum  which  they 
would  or  could  bestow.  The  utmost  caution  is  ne- 
cessary, to  secure  the  confidence  of  the  natives,  and 
we  know  of  no  better  means  by  which  our  motives 
and  object  may  be  known  and  commended,  than  by 
proving  that  we  act  upon  such  principles  of  disinter- 
estedness, as  they  have  never  seen  exemplified  before. 

The  simplicity  of  the  native  character  amuses  and 
interests  us.  Even  men  of  standing  in  society,  evince 
all  the  artlessness  of  children  with  us.  They  exa- 
mine with  the  most  minute  curiosity  the  texture  and 
fashion  of  the  dress,  and  not  unfrequently  extend 
their  scrutiny  to  the  body,  testing  with  their  hands 
the  depth  and  breadth  of  the  chest,  the  appearance 
of  the  hands,  and  arms,  and  face,  and  expressing,  as 
they  proceed,  their  admiration  or  the  contrary,  with 
the  utmost  candor.  What  they  fancy,  though  in  use, 
they  very  often  ask  for,  and  if  you  refuse  their  request, 
will  point  you,  if  it  be  an  article  of  dress,  to  other  gar- 
ments which  they  suppose  abundantly  sufficient  for 
one  body,  while  they  very  significantly  remind  you, 
that  the  greater  part  of  their  own  is  not  even  covered. 


234 


SIAM. 


Though  rather  troublesome  for  the  present,  we 
are  pleased  to  find  this  characteristic  so  prominent. 
It  shows  us  their  idea  of  the  superiority  of  foreigners, 
at  least,  in  some  respects,  and  we  hope  will  render 
them  less  tenacious  of  their  religious  opinions,  when 
they  find  them  so  totally  different  to  the  sentiments 
of  more  polished  nations.  Some  of  them  exhibit  much 
affection  and  gratitude  for  the  medicine  and  books. 
To-day  the  number  of  applicants  for  the  latter  has  ex- 
ceeded any  thing  of  the  kind  before.  High  and  low, 
priests  and  people,  men  a>id  women,  old  and  young, 
natives  and  foreigners,  all  throng  our  cottage,  and 
urge  their  suit  with  an  eloquence  which  can  scarcely 
be  resisted.  The  inadequate  number  of  books  for  the 
wants  of  the  people,  makes  us  cautions  in  their  distri- 
bution, and  them  earnest  in  their  requests.  The 
novelty  of  the  thing  is  no  doubt  the  great  attraction. 
Still,  we  know  that  their  hearts  are  in  the  Lord’s 
hands,  and  the  heathen  are  the  purchase  and  inheri- 
tance of  the  Saviour. 

As  the  tract,  though  not  clothed  in  Scripture 
phraseology,  and  not  without  many  errors,  is  an  epi- 
tome of  God’s  word,  and  illustrates  particularly  the 
redemption  of  the  Saviour,  we  are  encouraged  to  be- 
lieve that  it  shall  produce  effect. 

August  1st. — When  the  weather  would  admit,  we 
have  spent  an  hour  or  two,  before  breakfast,  in  teach- 
ing the  people,  from  house  to  house.  They  listen  to 


SIAM. 


235 


the  Gospel  with  attention,  and  though  their  own  ido- 
latry is  plainly  denounced,  say  nothing  in  its  vindica- 
tion. We  daily  meet  with  the  very  counterpart  of  cha- 
racters in  Gospel  lands ; men  who  will  take  the  subject 
from  your  lips,  and  descant  upon  it,  with  eloquence, 
to  those  around  them;  but  who  evidently  know  little 
of  its  import,  and  nothing  of  its  power.  Their  elo- 
quence is  exhausted  upon  minor  topics,  and  when 
reminded  of  the  great  mysteries  of  the  Gospel — the 
points  of  ditference  between  Christianity,  and  the 
ethics  of  Confucius,  they  show  by  their  silence  that 
they  are  quite  as  ignorant  as  their  auditory. 

August  20th. — Since  our  arrival,  we  have  been 
visited  by  several  of  the  princes,  whose  curiosity  and 
covetousness  prove  rather  troublesome.  The  most 
interesting  character  among  them  makes  himself  well 
known  to  all  visitors,  and  would,  if  divested  of  the 
fear  of  royal  displeasure,  and  rightly  guided  in  his 
fondness  for  foreign  customs,  become  the  greatest  bles- 
sing to  the  nation.  He  is  the  younger  son  of  the  ex- 
queen  ; his  elder  brother,  entitled  by  birthright  to  the 
throne,  in  the  place  of  the  reigning  monarch,  has  be- 
come a priest,  by  which  he  is  saved  the  mortification 
of  bowing  down  to  one  whom  he  is  unwilling  to 
regard  as  his  superior.  The  title  of  our  visitor  is, 
“ Lord  of  heaven.”  His  age  is  about  three-and-thirty. 
He  has  acquired  a smattering  of  English,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  intelligent,  manly,  and  improvable  charac- 


236 


SIAM. 


ters  in  the  kingdom.  He  is  desirous  to  obtain  a correet 
knowledge  of  our  language,  and  probably  makes  this 
his  principal  object  in  visiting  us.  Our  prayerful  en- 
deavor is  to  instruct  him  in  the  principles  of  the  Gos- 
pel, and  bring  him  to  a knowledge  of  “ the  truth  as  it  is 
in  Jesus.”  We  are  animated  in  our  exertions  by  the 
mere  possibility  that  he  may  be  preparing  to  exert 
an  extensive  influence  in  favor  of  Christianity — 
that,  perhaps,  he  may  be  kept  from  the  throne, 
only  to  fill  it  in  future  as  ‘ a nursing  father’  to  the 
church. 

This  evening  is  the  fourth  in  succession  that  we 
have  been  honored  by  the  visits  of  young  men  in  the 
higher  walks  of  life.  One  of  them  was  a prince,  to 
whom  Mr.  Tomlin  gave  an  English  Bible  when  at 
Siam  before.  He  has  a peculiarly  amiable  counte- 
nance, and  fascinating  demeanor  ; but,  like  all  his 
countrymen,  is  as  inquisitive  as  a child  in  examining 
every  foreign  trifle  that  catches  his  eye.  He  took  the 
last  bound  volume  of  the  book  on  our  table,  and  left 
upon  our  minds  an  impressive  concern  for  his  ever- 
leisting  welfare. 

Two  of  the  Prah  Klang’s  sons,  with  their  trams, 
spent  the  last  evening  with  us.  The  elder  is  an  in- 
telligent and  insidious  youth,  who  exerts  a powerful  in- 
fluence for  one  of  his  age,  and  is  probably  destined  to 
make  a conspicuous  figure  on  the  political  arena  of 
Siam.  From  his  inquiries  about  the  book  we  had 


SIAM. 


237 


been  distributing , whether  it  was  not  written,  and 
printed  by  natives,  and,  if  not,  who  taught  foreign- 
ers the  language,  we  thought  we  saw  symptoms 
of  alarm,  or  suspicion,  which  were  probably  trans- 
mitted from  the  old  man  who  sent  him.  We  gave 
him  an  unbound  volume  of  the  book,  about  which 
he  inquired,  assured  that  he  could  find  nothing  ex- 
ceptionable in  it,  and  hoping  that  he  might  be  led  to 
examine  it  much  more  minutely  and  profitably,  than 
the  when,  the  where,  and  the  how,  of  its  production. 

August  22d. — An  event  occurred  to-day,  which 
we  earnestly  pray  may  be  repeated,  until  the  whole 
kingdom  is  converted  to  Christ.  A priest,  of  a very 
respectable  appearance  and  train,  sent  a messenger 
before  him,  to  inform  us  that  he  had  read  our  book 
with  approbation,  and  being  unable  to  comprehend 
some  of  its  doctrines,  would  be  happy  to  receive  from 
our  lips  a solution  of  his  difficulties.  He  waited  a 
short  distance  from  the  house,  until  the  messenger 
returned  to  him  with  a fav'orable  answer.  He  re- 
mained a long  time,  and  plied  us  with  such  questions 
as  convinced  us  that  he  had  thought  deeply  on  the 
subjects.  The  Saviour  of  sinners  was  the  burden  of 
his  inquiries — who  he  was — what  was  the  distinction 
between  him  and  the  Father — whether  his  love  extend- 
ed to  men  of  all  nations — how  he  expiated  the  sins  of 
the  guilty — and  whether  God  the  Father  bore  an  equal 
affection  to  the  world. 


238 


SIAM. 


He  was  particular  in  inquiring  about  the  nature 
of  sin,  the  process  by  which  the  heart  could  be  sanc- 
tified, and  the  manner  of  divine  worship.  Many 
points  of  minor  importance  were  proposed,  and  a 
number  of  their  own  opinions  submitted  to  the  test  of 
our  faith.  Such  was  the  earnestness  of  the  man, 
that  when  he  thought  his  questions  not  perfectly  un- 
derstood, he  would  turn  to  a China  youth  in  his  train, 
and  beg  him  to  put  the  inquiry  in  Chinese.  It  af- 
forded a good  opportunity  for  preaching  the  Gospel,  to 
apparent  advantage,  and  many  most  important  ideas 
were  suggested  to  his  inquiring  mind. 

September  10th. — Three  priests  of  distinction  spent 
part  of  the  evening  with  us.  Probably  with  the  fears, 
though  evidently  not  the  object  of  Nicodemus,  they 
came  “ by  night.”  They  had  been  before,  and  greatly 
uiterested  us  by  their  mild  and  friendly  demeanor. 
Of  Jesus  and  his  religion,  they  always  speak  with  ap- 
probation, though,  we  fear,  not  always  with  sincerity. 
It  is  delightful  that  his  blessed  name,  and  some  know- 
ledge of  his  character  and  ofi&ces,  are  becoming  fami- 
liar to  these  deluded  men.  It  is  by  no  means  uncom- 
mon for  us  to  be  saluted  by  the  title  of  disciples  of 
Jesus, — often  with  an  encomium  upon  the  gracious 
Being  whom  we  serve.  The  folly  and  consequences 
of  idol  worship  were  plainly  pointed  out  to-night,  and 
the  unpublished  Scripture,  containing  the  sermon  on 
the  mount,  given  to  one  of  them,  to  read  aloud. 


SIAM. 


239 


That  their  own  religion  sits  lightly  upon  many  of 
them,  is  evident,  from  numerous  facts.  Some  of  them  do 
not  hesitate  to  eat,  and  even  to  ask  us  for,  articles  strict- 
ly prohibited  in  their  laws.  Though  not  allowed  to 
partake  of  any  thing  after  the  mid-day  meal,  tAVO  of 
our  visitors  had  infringed  the  rules  before,  and  were 
waiting  to-night  only  for  the  assent  of  their  superior. 

Since  our  arrival,  the  priests  have  constituted  a 
large  proportion  of  our  visitors.  Hundreds,  proba- 
bly thousands,  have  applied  for  books  and  medicines, 
and  not  a few  of  them  have  become  very  sociable, 
and  frequently  spend  part  of  the  day,  or  evening,  with 
us.  They  express  not  the  least  aversion  to  the  dis- 
semination of  a faith,  which  they  might  know  is  both 
opposite  and  destructive  to  their  own.  Many  of  them, 
there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  care  nothing  about 
their  own  religion,  and  know  as  little  about  ours. 
Not  expecting  to  remain  in  these  monasteries  beyond 
their  term  of  pupilage,  they  appear  to  feel  themselves 
quite  as  much  at  liberty  to  gratify  their  curiosity, 
as  to  sacrifice  it  to  an  object  in  which  they  have 
no  permanent  interest.  Selected  from  all  classes  of 
society,  and  destined  to  fill  all  stations  in  public  life 
— having  abundant  leisure  to  read,  and  seemingly  de- 
sirous to  learn  the  contents  of  our  little  volume — we 
should  be  callous  indeed,  if  our  hearts  did  not  often 
move  with  sorrow  for  their  blindness,  and  prompt  the 
most  fervent  intercessions  on  their  behalf. 


240 


SIAM. 


Our  most  frequent  visitor  was  introduced  to  us  by 
a note  from  GutzlafF,  in  which,  he  is  recommended  as 
“ a friend  of  truth,  thoroughly  versed  in  the  doctrines 
of  Buddhism,  humble  and  docile,  a chaplain  to  his 
majesty.”  He  is  far  above  the  standard  of  his  coun- 
trymen, and  one  of  the  finest  models  of  unchristian- 
ized men  we  ever  saw.  He  evinces  nothing  of  the 
idle  curiosity  of  his  countrymen  ; but  is  fond  of  sci- 
ence, and  particularly  anxious  to  learn  the  habits,  lan- 
guages, and  religions  of  other  nations.  He  comes 
often  for  instruction,  and  proves  himself  an  assiduous 
and  apt  scholar.  There  is  something  more  than  or- 
dinarily engaging  in  his  countenance  and  deportment ; 
and  the  knowledge  he  has  acquired  of  Christianity, 
and  the  apparent  candor  with  which  he  speaks  of  the 
gracious  Redeemer,  render  ten-fold  more  deplorable 
his  remaining^  darkness,  and  controllingf  fears.  At 
his  first  visit  we  gave  him  the  manuscript  life  of  Jesus, 
which  he  read;  since  that  he  has  taken  different  parts 
of  the  unpublished  Gospels  for  perusal. 

September  19th. — Spent  part  of  the  afternoon,  and 
dined  in  company  with  one  of  the  Cambojian  princes. 
He  was  anxious  to  see  the  style,  and  taste  the  dishes 
of  a European  dinner,  and  Mr.  Silveira  very  obliging- 
ly gratified  him.  About  twenty  years  ago,  himself 
and  elder  brother  fled  from  some  disturbances  in  their 
own  country,  and  placed  themselves  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  king  of  Siam.  Since  that,  the  king  of 


SIAM. 


241 


Cambodjia,  their  father,  has  died,  and  though  the 
brother  was  the  lawful  heir  to  the  throne,  their  patron 
has  sternly  refused  them  the  liberty  of  returning  home. 
A brother  younger  than  either  of  those  in  Siam,  has 
obtained  the  crown. 

The  prince,  though  among  the  most  intellectual  in 
the  kingdom,  has  still  all  the  curiosity  of  the  most 
ignorant.  Much  of  his  time  in  the  company  of  for- 
eigners, is  employed  in  familiar  and  ludicrous  re- 
marks with  his  attendants.  These  generally  spread 
themselves  on  the  floor,  according  to  an  order  which 
appears  to  exist  among  them,  and  as  near  his  chair  as 
possible.  Whatever  strikes  the  prince  as  peculiarly 
good,  or  offensive,  he  hesitates  not  to  pass  to  his  pros- 
trate train,  for  examination  and  remen’k.  ^4, 

The  two  most  important  facts  we  have  gathered 
to-day,  are  that  Cambodjia  contains  more  than  half  the 
population  of  Siam,  and  has  no  Catholic  priests  to  op- 
pose the  introduction  of  pure  religion.  As  far  as  we 
can  determine  the  facts,  a few  catechists  are  all  that 
the  Catholics  have  been  able  or  disposed  to  furnish 
their  proselytes  in  that  country,  although  the  priests 
from  Cochin-China  and  Siam  occasionally  make  them 
a visit. 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  a Protestant 
mission  might  be  planted  in  Cambodjia.  The  best  sit- 
uation would  probably  be  near  one  of  the  mouths  of 
its  famous  river,  or  perhaps  in  the  vicinity  of  some  of 
21 


242 


SIAM. 


the  settlements  of  Malays,  Chinese  or  Japanese,  who 
have  all  emigrated  to  this  country.  An  annual  tra- 
ding vessel  visiting  the  place  would  be  of  double  utility 
— ^rendering  an  acceptable,  if  not  a necessary  service 
to  the  missionaries,  and  improving  by  its  traffic  the 
secular  condition  of  the  people.  Here  a^ain  we  must 
look  to  the  “ ships  of  Tarshish”  for  those  preparatory 
amd  consecutive  services,  by  which  the  Saviour’s  reign 
on  earth,  we  believe,  is  to  be  hastened. 

October,  22d,  1831. — The  present  month  is  one  of 
special  interest  to  the  Siamese.  The  priests  are  kept 
more  employed  at  their  solemnities  than  at  any  other 
time,  and  the  whole  nation,  including  the  king,  show 
more  than  a usual  devotion  to  their  idols.  Offerings 
are  made  to  the  river,  for  its  use  and  abuse,  during  the 
year.  A part  of  their  ceremonies,  if  indeed  they  give 
them  a religious  association,  consists  in  illuminations 
and  fire-works. 

Last  night  we  took  a boat,  and  went  to  the  pa- 
lace to  witness  an  exhibition,  in  which  the  monarch 
himself  takes  an  active  part.  The  current,  which  at 
this  season  runs  at  the  usual  rate  of  four  or  five  miles 
an  hour,  kept  us  some  time  on  the  way,  and  made  us 
avail  ourseh^es  of  every  course  in  which  its  strengtli 
could  be  best  avoided.  Part  of  the  way,  we  passed 
among  boats  moored  near  the  shore ; part,  between 
floating  houses  and  the  land,  and  part,  through  small 
creeks  or  canals,  which  run  nearly  parallel  with  the 


SIAM. 


243 


rirer.  It  gave  us  another  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
style  in  which  multitudes  are  obliged,  and  apparently 
contented  to  live.  The  contrast  is  quite  striking  be- 
tween the  small,  and  well-peopled  huts  of  the  common 
classes,  and  the  spacious  grounds  and  buildings  of  some 
of  the  princes.  These  last  occupy  the  best  shore  loca- 
tions, and  are  generally  grouped  with  temples,  and  the 
dwellings  of  priests  who  are  supported  at  their  expense. 

We  passed  the  Prah  Klang,  sitting  in  one  of  the 
floating  houses,  and  amusing  himself  with  firing  squibs 
in  the  water.  The  number  and  variety  of  small 
boats  before  the  palace  did  not  equal  our  expectations. 
As  a mark  of  veneration,  we  were  all  obliged  to  keep 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  whence  the  per- 
son of  the  kinof  could  not  be  distinafuished.  We  waited 
until  nearly  midnight,  before  a lamp  was  lighted  at  the 
palace.  A discharge  of  fire-works  was  then  heard, 
and  two  large  vessels,  on  either  side  of  the  king’s 
watering-house,  were  lighted  up  with  lamps.  Then 
a number  of  small  boats  were  richly  illuminated,  and 
sent  down  the  tide.  After  which,  rockets,  and  a few 
inferior  exhibitions  of  fire-works,  were  presented. 

The  full-orbed  moon  moving  in  silent  majesty 
above  us,  and  shedding  a lovely  radiance  over  the 
scene,  repaid  us  richly  for  the  beauties  which  her  lus- 
tre had  eclipsed.  When  shall  she  become  as  the  light 
of  the  sun,  and  the  sun  as  the  light  of  seven  days,  in 
“ this  region  and  shadow  of  death.” 


244 


SIAM. 


November  Sth. — For  a number  of  days,  the  king 
has  been  visiting  the  pagodas  supported  by  himself, 
and  furnishing  the  priests  with  such  articles  of  neces- 
sity and  luxurj^,  as  his  zeal  and  bounty  dictate.  The 
work  is  considered  highly  meritorious  ; it  is  perform- 
ed annually  at  this  season.  The  temples  built  and 
supplied  from  the  king’s  treasury’’  are  numerous,  pro- 
bably between  twenty  and  thirty,  and  many  days  are 
usually  expended  in  completing  the  round.  The 
principal  priest  of  each  temple  is  arrayed  on  these 
occasions  by  the  hand  of  his  royal  master — the  priest, 
according  to  the  humble  profession  of  the  monarch, 
being  the  superior. 

To-day  the  train  passed  our  house.  It  consisted 
of  perhaps  a hundred  barges — many  of  them  more 
elegant  than  any  thing  of 'the  kind,  I ever  beheld.  The 
guard-boats — a splendid  array — led  the  van.  Some 
of  them  were  so  long  and  narrow,  and  well  manned, 
that  they  were  capable  of  almost  volatile  speed,  though 
at  the  slightest  declination  it  was  evident  that  they 
would  plunge  their  contents  in  the  wave  beneath 
them.  Others  of  more  substantial  material,  and 
larger  dimensions,  carried  pieces  of  ordnance  on 
pivots,  and  were  managed  by  soldiers  dressed  in  a 
flaming  uniform. 

The  king’s  galley  followed,  said  to  be  at  least  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length,  and  propelled  by 
eighty  men.  A curve  at  the  bow  and  stern  raises  it 


SIAM. 


245 


some  distance  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and 
adds  much  to  the  elegance  of  its  structure.  It  is 
made  of  one  tree,  and  many  lives  were  sacrificed  in 
transferring  it  from  its  original  bed  to  this  place.  This, 
however,  is  no  consideration  with  the  Siamese.  It  is 
by  no  means  uncommon  for  numbers  to  perish,  in 
conveying  the  kings,  or  men  of  authority,  on  expedi- 
tions of  importance.  Excessive  toil,  an  exhausting 
cliniiite,  and  want  of  relief — the  boats  being  too  narrow 
to  carry  more  than  one  set  of  hands,  soon  produces 
fatal  consequences  to  the  unpitied  boatmen. 

His  majesty’s  portly  person  had  no  other  covering 
than  a cloth  about  the  loins ; he  was  attended  by  a few 
of  the  women  and  children  of  his  large  family.  The 
boats  of  the  princes  followed,  many  of  them  but  little 
inferior  to  the  king’s,  and  all  with  horse  tails  hanging 
upon  the  bow, — the  insignia  of  their  rank.  The  train 
was  closed  by  the  barges  of  persons  of  less  importance, 
and  the  whole  extended  probably  more  than  a mile. 
We  were  obliged  at  the  command  of  a precursor  to 
shut  the  door, — a ceremony  expected  from  all,  before 
whose  houses  such  a sacred  personage  passes.  The 
length  of  the  array^ — the  great  diversity  of  boats — 
the  unanimous  shouts,  bursting  from  so  many  lips — 
the  noise  of  those  who  beat  time,  with  the  uniform 
motions  of  the  paddles,  and  the  rapidity  with  which 
the  pageant  hastened  by,  rendered  the  scene  as  lively 
to  the  senses,  as  its  object  was  sickening  to  the  mind 

21* 


246 


SIAM. 


of  the  Christian  beholder.  How  dreadful  is  the  influ- 
ence of  the  great  deceiver  over  this  nation,  command- 
ing his  thousands  of  the  pride  and  power  of  the  king- 
dom to  one  feat  of  idolatry. 

December  1st. — For  about  two  months,  the  Mei- 
nam  has  overflowed  its  banks,  and  laid  the  surround- 
ing country  under  water.  It  is  said,  not  to  have 
equalled  its  present  height  for  the  last  thirty  years. 
This  morning  we  took  a boat,  and  steered  for  the 
fields  where  we  had  repeatedly  walked,  expecting  to 
see  one  liquid  expanse  unbroken  only  by  the  trees 
and  scattered  houses.  "We  were  disappointed,  for 
though  we  proceeded  some  distance,  and  might  have 
gone  as  much  farther  as  we  pleased,  the  luxuriant 
rice  had  so  far  overtopped  the  level  of  the  water,  that 
at  a distance  the  latter  was  not  perceptible.  The 
laborers  were  movmg  about  in  boats  cutting  the  pad- 
dy, and  attending  to  other  business.  The  country 
is  nearly  a dead  level,  for  an  immense  distance,  and 
so  general  is  the  present  flood,  that  it  is  said  you  can 
leave  the  channel  of  the  river,  and  make  a straight 
course  to  the  ancient  capital  Juthia,  perhaps  one 
hundred  miles. 

That  there  would  be  some  obstruction  from  the 
tops  of  the  paddy  is  to  us  very  evident,  except  the  soil 
is  more  depressed,  or  less  productive  above  Bankok 
than  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  The  houses  built 
upon  rafts  have  greatly  the  advantage  at  the  present 


SIAM. 


247 


crisis.  In  many  of  the  others  the  water  is  so  deep, 
that  their  occupants  are  obliged  to  erect  platforms 
above  the  floor  upon  which  to  sit  and  sleep.  It  is  a time 
• of  suffering  to  the  poor,  many  of  whom  have  made 
no  provision  for  this  exigence,  and  are  obliged  to 
i throw  themselves  upon  the  charities  of  a heartless 
people. 

December  6th. — About  a fortnight  ego,  a China 
boy  appeared  before  our  door,  and  being  friendless, 
and  poor,  and  ill,  intreated  us  to  take  him  in.  His 
case  demanded  our  pity,  and  we  could  not  refuse. 
His  employment  had  been  suspended  on  account  of 
the  overflowing  of  the  waters,  and  probably  no  man 
would  receive  him.  While  they  have  means,  there 
is  no  want  of  relatives  and  friends  ; but  when  the  ap- 
peal is  only  to  pity,  it  is  of  little  avail.  The  cruelty 
of  the  Chinese  especially,  is  unnatural.  They  have 
even  brought  their  sick,  reduced  to  the  last  extremi- 
ty of  disbase,  and  after  laying  them  before  the  door, 
endeavored  to  make  their  escape  unobserved — glad 
to  get  rid  of  the  incumbrance,  and  careless  of  the 
consequences.  The  boy  lingered  until  Sunday,  when 
he  was  found  dead  on  the  steps  leading  to  his  door. 
He  had  probably  felt  a sense  of  suffocation,  and  died 
in  the  attempt  to  get  into  the  air. 

There  was  something  affecting  in  his  case.  Of  six 
of  the  dialects  spoken  in  the  empire,  and  employed 
more  or  less  by  those  who  are  found  in  these  parts. 


248 


SIAM. 


his  was  the  onl  / one  of  which  ourselves  and  teachers 
knew  nothing.  We  had  both  been  laboring  the  very 
day  of  his  death,  to  communicate  some  idea  of  spi- 
ritual things  to  his  mind,  but  without  effect.  Oh 
how  impressive  is  the  call  from  the  clay,  which 
its  immortal  tenant,  in  deep  ignorance  has  just  left ! 

December  25th,  Sabbath. — Beside  the  small  band, 
consisting  of  only  four  or  six,  who  usually  worship 
with  us,  there  were  two  strangers  present  this  morn- 
ing. They  had  called  for  medicines  before,  and 
from  their  willingness  to  Jisten  to  the  doctrines  of 
salvation,  and  a partial  knowledge  of  these  doctrines 
previously  obtained,  much  interest  was  excited  on  their 
behalf.  One  of  them  a few  days  ago  mentioned,  that  he 
had  known  the  God  of  heaven,  for  a number  of  years ; 
but  had  never  seen  the  “ sacred  books,” — doubtless  a 
very  imperfect  acquaintance.  The  other  said  that 
his  neighbors  came  to  his  house  to  worship  the  true 
God,  with  him;  but  here  again  we  are  obliged  to 
suspect  a near  approach  to  heathenism,  both  in 
their  ideas  of  the  Lord  and  of  the  manner  of  his  wor- 
ship. 

They  appear  however,  like  those  who  are 
“ feeling  after  the  Lord,”  and  we  earnestly  hope  that 
He  may  be  found  of  them.  There  is  something  so 
peculiar  in  their  case,  that  we  are  encouraged  to 
believe  an  invisible  hand  is  leading  them  “out  of 
darkness  into  marvellous  light.” 


SIAM. 


249 


27'th. — To-day  we  saw  an  illustration  of  the  hea- 
then’s cruelty.  ‘The  skiff  of  a lad  passing  a short 
distance  from  the  shore,  was  upset.  He  clung  to  the 
boat,  and  begged  the  assistance  of  two  men  going  by. 
They  passed  within  a few  feet,  of  him  and  paid  no  at- 
tention to  his  request.  He  was  carried  perhaps  half  a 
mile,  witli  a strong  current,  and  though  others  ap- 
proached very  near,  none  would  stop  to  rescue  him. 
When  I saw  him  last,  he  was  laboring  with  his  feet  and 
the  paddle,  to  get  his  boat  to  the  shore.  I asked  the  in- 
human men  the  cause  of  their  cruelty.  Some  made  no 
reply.  One  answered  in  a tone  of  excitement,  “ He  did 
not  call,”  though  he  evidently  knew  not,  if  he  even 
turned  to  see,  whether  the  lad  was  not  too  much  ex- 
hausted for  the  exertion.  Though  this  instan'ce  is  the 
first  of  the  kind  I have  seen,  it  is  by  no  means  uncom- 
mon. Tomlin  says,  they  have  even  been  obliged  to 
hire  them  to  rescue  their  suffering  fellow-men  from 
imminent  danger.  A trifling  sum  will  move  therp, 
when  no  appeal  to  their  pity  can.  What  a blessing  is 
the  Gospel,  in  its  meliorating  as  well  as  saving  influ- 
ences, upon  the  character  of  man. 

Another  event,  which  evinces  the  patriotism, 
perhaps  the  cruelty,  of  a Brutus,  recently  occurred. 
The  king  was  informed  that  his  son,  the  heir  appa- 
rent of  the  throne,  was  in  the  habit  of  smoking  opium. 
He  immediately  commanded  his  property  to  be  sold, 


250 


SIAM. 


and  his  person  to  be  arrested,  and  imprisoned  for  ex- 
ecution. The  mother  interceded  in  vain.  The  other 
princes,  and  the  men  in  authority,  exerted  their  influ- 
ence in  behalf  of  the  youth,  with  no  better  efiiect. 
The  second  king,  though  very  ill,  finding  that  the 
prince  was  about  to  suffer  a cruel  death  for  a common 
crime,  was  conveyed  to  the  palace,  and  succeeded  in 
averting  the  threatened  doom.  The  circumstan'ce 
has  produced  considerable  excitement,  and  may  tend 
in  a measure  to  prevent  the  prevalence  of  a ruinous 
vice. 

December  29th. — To-day  we  are  cheered  by  some 
pleasing  facts,  which  render  it  evident  that  the  seed 
sown  in  this  wilderness  begins  to  appear.  The  two 
persons  mentioned,  as  the  increase  to  the  usual  num- 
ber of  Sabbath  worshippers,  came  again  to-day.  One 
of  them  had  his  head  cut  by  a stone  thrown  at  him,  j 
while  these  two  and  a friend  were  convened  for  read-  < 
ing  the  Scriptures  and  prayer.  The  house,  they  say,  i 
was  assailed  by  a number  of  Siamese,  who  were  pro-  | 
bably  offended  at  their  departure  from  the  heathenish  | 
customs  of  their  neighbors.  They  were  informed  ! 
of  the  sufferings  often  endured  by  God’s  children,  > 
for  the  same  cause,  and  they  manifested  no  disposi- 
tion to  be  prevented  from  their  newly  commenced 
duties. 

In  visiting  a sick  man,  who  is  in  a shocking  state 


SIAM. 


251 


of  corruption,  we  found  that  he  knew  something  of  the 
Lord,  and  professed  to  worship  him  alone.  He  was 
too  weak  to  read  himself,  but  a neighbor  came  in, 
and  read  the  Christian  tract  to  him.  This  neighbor 
had  been  employed  as  a carpenter  by  us,  and  mani- 
fested much  intelligence  and  interest  in  his  inquhies 
about  the  Christian  religion.  Yesterday  he  was  in- 
structed, at  his  own  request,  in  the  nature  of  prayer — 
a subject  upon  which  their  previous  associations  render 
the  nation  absurdly  ignorant.  My  teacher,  whose  own 
heart  is  like  the  nether  millstone,  mentioned  the  case 
of  a man  who  came  to  see  him,  after  the  business 
of  the  day,  to  have  the  sacred  books  explained.  He 
said  that  the  man  had  no  idea  how  the  Lord  of 
heaven  should  be  worshipped,  and  when  informed 
of  our  Sabbath  services,  asked  whether  he  might 
attend. 

Another  striking  case  occurred  in  the  dispensary 
to-day.  While  a lad  was  employed  in  reading  part  of  a 
Siamese  tract,  another,  of  perhaps  eight  or  nine  years 
of  age,  who  sat  near,  repeated  some  of  it  before  him. 
I asked  him  how  he  knew  it ; he  replied,  that  his 
father  and  mother  taught  him — that  they  read  the 
Christian  tract  every  day,  and  worshipped  the  Lord 
of  heaven.  That  there  is  some  truth  in  this,  is  evi- 
dent from  his  own  knowledge. 

Thus  the  Lord  shows  us  that  our  labors  are  not 
in  vain,  just  at  the  time  when  my  companion  is  leav- 


252 


SIAM. 


ing  the  place,  and  my  own  health  has  become  so 
much  impaired,  as  to  unfit  me  in  a great  measure  for 
exertion,  and  render  a change  desirable,  if  not  neces- 
sary. O that  this,  and  every  other  heathen  station, 
were  occupied  by  numbers,  that  when  some  were 
compelled  to  retire,  others  might  remain  to  carry  on 
the  work. 

January  2d,  1832. — The  priest  who  was  at  first  in- 
troduced to  us  by  letter,  and  who  has  called  repeatedly 
since,  came  this  evening  with  another,  who  had  also 
visited  us  previously.  They  had  heard  before  entering 
the  house  that  we  both  were  going,  and  appeared 
more  than  usually  affectionate.  AVe  spent  all  the 
evening  in  endeavoring  to  persuade  them  to  turn  from 
their  idols  to  the  only  living  and  true  God.  They 
listened  with  attention,  asked  many  questions — one 
of  which  was,  whether  God  disallowed  idol  worship — 
and  appeared  more  solemn  than  we  had  seen  them 
before.  The  superior  has  a mind  of  ready  and  com- 
prehensive powers.  He  has  copied  nearly  two  of  the 
Gospels,  and  generally  understands  what  he  reads. 
He  spake  of  the  fig-tree  which  Jesus  cursed,  and  we 
endeavored  to  enforce  its  application  upon  himself. 
We  have  reason  to  believe  that  he  is  convinced  of  the 
folly  of  idolatry,  and  impressed  in  some  degree  with 
the  reasonableness,  if  not  necessity,  of  the  Christian 
religion.  But  his  rank  is  high,  and  the  consequences 
of  changing  his  faith,  which  his  graspmg  mind  no 


SIAM. 


253 


doubt  fully  apprehends,  will  probably  produce  a strug- 
gle of  soul,  before  he  is  made  to  submit.  His  plea 
for  not  being  a Christian,’  is  ignorance.  He  says  he 
knows  but  little  yet.  May  the  fear  of  God,  which  is 
the  beginning  of  wisdom,  embolden  him  to  profess 
Christ  before  his  perishing  countrymen. 

January. — There  is  something  in  the  beauty  of  the 
heavens  at  this  season  of  the  year,  which  makes  up 
for  the  destitution  of  every  earthly  charm,  and  ex- 
ceeds any  thing  I ever  noticed  in  other  chnmtes. 
For  many  weeks,  there  has  scarcely  fallen  a drop  of 
rain.  The  atmosphere  during  the  day  is  so  clear, 
that  the  eye  wanders  through  the  boundless  field 
with  a most  animating  range.  Nothing  can  exceed 
the  glories  of  the  morning  and  evening  twilight. 
The  burnished  heavens — the  broad  rays  of  the  hid- 
den sun  shooting  up  the  wide  arch  of  the  firmament 
— often  succeeded  by  transverse  streaks  of  the  most 
delicate  and  varying  colors,  and  these  yielding  to  a 
thousand  softer  and  still  softer  tinges,  hold  our  eyes 
and  hearts  at  the  close  of  each  day,  in  glowing  admi- 
ration, until  the  stars  have  one  by  one  unveiled  their 
glories,  and  all  the  celestial  worlds  beam  forth  through 
the  azure  with  the  brightest  radiance.  Between  the 
rains  and  the  commencement  of  the  hot  weather — a 
space  of  perhaps  three  months — the  climate  is  de- 
lightfully temperate.  The  summer  commences  very 

22 


254 


SIAM. 


early,  and  the  heat  is  often  intense  before  the  rainy 
season  begins. 

January  5 th. — As  we  passed  up  the  river  this 
morning,  the  gilded  temples  and  spires  of  idolatry 
gleamed  in  the  first  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  and 
shed  a lustre  on  the  scene  around  them.  Priests 
m crowds  were  passing  about,  while  women  with 
large  vessels  of  boiled  rice,  and  other  provisions, 
were  sittmg  before  the  doors  of  the  floating  houses, 
or  in  their  boats,  measuring  to  each  his  allowance. 
This  finished,  they  put  both  hands  to  their  forehead, 
by  which  gesture  they  worship  their  idols,  while  the 
priest  deigns  them  no  recognition  of  their  reverence. 
We  called  upon  a man  in  public  office,  and  were  in- 
formed that  the  king  is  preparing  to  consecrate  eight 
new,  and  newly  repaired  temples.  On  the  occasion  he 
throws  away  a vast  sum  of  money,  in  support  of  his 
“ royal  estate.”  A fixed  estimate  is  placed  upon  his 
person,  his  palace,  some  of  his  wives,  his  sons,  his 
plate,  and  other  articles.  Each  distinct  sum  is  writ- 
ten on  a scrap  of  paper,  and  put  within  a lemon. 
Some  of  tliem  amount  to  one  thousand  dollars  a piece. 
His  majesty  ascends  an  elevated  place,  and  scatters 
these  lemons  among  the  assembled  crowd,  and  those 
who  get  them  receive  their  respective  sums,  upon 
presenting  the  paper.  Thus  like  the  afflicted  at  the 
pool  of  Bethesda,  the  most  needy  are  thrust  aside, 


SIAM. 


255 


while  the  more  vigorous  and  less  miserable  come 
before  and  divide  the  spoil. 

We  passed  a funeral  array.  The  body  was 
placed  in  a coffin  shaded  with  a large  canopy. 
From  the  coffin  a piece  of  white  cloth  was  passed 
over  the  shoulder  of  a lad,  dressed  to  represent  an 
angel,  and  fastened  to  the  garment  of  a priest,  sitting 
near  the  bow  of  the  boat.  By  this  means  they  say 
the  priest  conducts  the  deceased  to  happiness.  The 
body  is  then  taken  to  a temple,  and  burned  according 
to  the  custom  of  the  country. 

Before  returning,  we  called  at  two  of  the  most 
spacious  and  magnificent  pagodas  in  the  city.  The 
superiority  of  the  one  consists  in  the  situation  and 
arrangement  of  its  buildings — the  other  in  their 
multiplicity  and  magnificence.  In  entering  the 
outer  court  of  the  latter,  the  attention  is  first  ar- 
rested by  large  images,  more  like  horses  than  any 
other  animals,  and  occupying  the  place  of  warders. 
All  the  gates  are  guarded  by  these,  and  another  class 
of  still  stranger  figures,  intended  to  represent  the 
body  of  a man,  with  a face  of  mixed  features — a com- 
bination of  man,  beast,  and  bird — all  distorted,  and 
giving  the  countenance  a hideous  expression.  With- 
in this  outer  court,  are  a large  temple  and  oratory, 
where  the  priests  deliver  their  discourses,  two  or 
three  high  towers,  and  an  extensive  row  of  open 
buildings.  Having  passed  through  the  court,  you 


256 


SIAM, 


1 


enter  a second  gate,  and  find  a more  spacious  area, 
surrounded  by  walls  and  corridors,  and  embellish- 
ed with  spires  of  still  larger  proportions. 

In-the  centre,  is,  in  external  appearance,  a stupen- 
dous block  of  irregular  buildings,  having  temples  on 
four  sides  facing  the  area,  opposite  each  other,  and 
connected  with  ranges  of  smaller  dimensions.  We 
entered  one  of  the  large  temples,  desirous,  if  possible,  . 
to  pass  through  and  examine  the  interior.  A num-  t 
her  of  priests  were  stretched  upon  their  beds  sleeping ; 
Qthers  were  whiling  away  the  time  at  trifling  em- 
ployments, and  before  them  and  a large  idol,  objects 
of  nearly  equal  reverence,  women  were  worshipping.  ^ 
Again  our  irreverence  was  the  subject  of  inquiry,  and  | 
again  we  pointed  them  to  Him  who  had  denounced 
such  abominations,  and  who  alone  is  to  be  worshipped. 
Some  were  silent  and  sullen,  and  refused  to  open 
tlie  inner  door.  One  who  had  perhaps  received  * 
a ray  of  true  light,  helped  us  in  explaining  our 
message.  After  almost  compassing  the  buildings, 
which  proved  no  inconsiderable  walk,  we  found  an 
open  door,  and  entered.  The  whole  outer  range  we 
had  thus  surrounded,  with  another  of  nearly  equal  » 
extent,  a few  feet  within,  were  coriipletely  filled  with 
rows  of  gilded  images,  of  different  sizes,  and  in  difier- 
ent  attitudes.  The  number  of  idols  was  variously 
ptated  by  the  priests,  and  others.  Our  own  calcula- 
tion made  the  aggregate  between  six  and  seven  hun- 


4 


SIAM. 


257 


dred,  though  we  could  not  have  seen  them  all,  and 
none  of  the  natives  would  admit  that  there  were  less 
than  a thousand.  The  largest  image  was  upwards 
of  thirty-five  feet  high.  Inclosed  by  these  ranges  of 
buildings  we  found  another  court,  containing  a num- 
ber of  tasteful  ornaments,  of  a pyramidal  form,  and 
with  a splendid  temple  in  the  centre.  Had  “ Holiness 
to  the  Lord,”  been  inscribed  here,  this  inner  tempi  e, 
as  guarded  as  the  “ sanctum  sanctorum,”  would  have 
appeared  more  beautiful  than  any  thing  of  the  kind 
we  had  ever  seen. 

While  our  eyes  were  employed  in  examining  these 
objects  of  admiration  and  horror,  our  tongues  were 
active  in  argument  with  the  priests  and  others  who 
followed  us.  The  longest  discussion  took  place  in 
presence  of  the  largest  idol,  with  two  young  men 
who  were  more  zealous  for  the  honor  of  their  gods, 
than  any  we  had  before  met.  One  of  them  insisted 
that  the  image  could  speak,  for  pointing  to  a large 
tablet  before  him,  he  said  “ all  this  was  dictated  by 
him.”  The  other  retorting  our  exposure  of  their  fol-- 
ly,  scornfully  represented  the  cross,  with  his  fingers, 
believing  that  all  foreigners  were  Catholic  idolaters, 
and  plainly  showing  that  papal  abominations  had  been 
made  an  otfence,  even  to  these  ignorant  heathen. 
We  were  assisted  in  correcting  this  mistake — alas, 
how  common  among  the  ignorant ! by  an  intelligenf 
looking  man  of  middle  age,  who  had  evidently  ^ece^Y■^ 
22* 


258 


SIAM. 


ed  some  correct  and  impressive  knowledge  of  Chris- 
tianity— probably  from  the  books,  and  who  aided  us 
in  our  arguments  with  much  apparent  interest. 

In  some  of  their  temples  there  is  a great  display 
of  paintings,  and  the  subjects  brought  together  .show 
the  extreme  ignorance  and  depravity  of  the  nation. 
The  walls  of  one  of  them  which  I visited,  were 
completely  covered  with  representations  of  heaven, 
earth,  hell,  and  one  of  the  stars  of  which  their 
books  speak.  There  were  angels,  men,  and  mon- 
keys, foreigners,  or  caricatures  of  white  men,  and 
dignified  natives — scenes  of  gaiety  and  sadness — 
by  land  and  sea — of  war  and  peace — temples  and 
brothels,  with  almost  every  sketch  which  Qould  be 
framed  from  their  sacred  books,  or  conceived  by  their 
versatile  lirmiers.  Such  another  chamber  of  imagery 
I never  beheld.  My  informant,  the  prince,  remarked 
that  the  object  of  these  paintings  was  to  instruct  the 
illiterate,  through  the  medium  of  their  senses.  How 
far  he  is  indebted  to  some  of  his  friends  for  this  truly 
Catholic  principle,  I know  not ; but  that  lie  is  familiar 
with  many  of  the  notions,  of  the  Romish  church,  is 
quite  evident.  One  day  he  pointed  to  the  tower  con- 
nected with  a temple,  and  inquired  if  I knew  what 
was  deposited  in  it.  I told  him  tliat  I had  heard  some 
of  them  contained  money.  He  replied,  not  money, 
but  the  bones  of  God.  I asked  him  how  that  was 
possible,  for  God  has  no  body,  and  a spirit  has  no  bones* 


SIAM. 


259 


He  answered,  the  Catholics  speak  of  the  bones  of  God. 
I told  him  that  the  Catholics  in  these  countries  were 
very  ignorant;  but  I scarcely  believed  quite  so  ignorant 
as  to  speak  of  preserving  the  bones  of  God — they  must 
have  meant  the  bones  of  good  men.  O yes,  said  he, 
1 mean  the  same  thing,  these  are  the  bones  of  good 
men.  I am  not  certain  but  that  my  apology  for  the 
Catholics  was  unwarranted,  for  their  saints  hold  the 
same  place  and  receive  the  same  honors,  as  the  gods 
of  the  heathen. 

The  journal  of  our  first  visit  to  Siam  closes  with 
the  last  notice.  The  greater  part  of  the  occurrences 
recorded  at  the  time,  have  been  omitted.  Enough 
has  been,  extracted,  to  present  to  those  who  did  not 
read  the  journal,  some  glimpses  of  Siam  and  her 
population,  as  well  as  some  idea  of  the  means 
employed  to  raise  them  in  the  scale  of  human  and 
responsible  beings.  The  most  important  inquiry  re- 
mains to  be  answered — What  has  been  the  result 
of  these  exertions  and  favorable  appearances — how 
many  “ have  turned  to  God  from  idols,  to  serve  the 
living  and  true  God,  and  to  wait  for  His  Son  from 
heaven  ?”  We  answer : W”e  know  not  that  this  has 
been  the  case  with  any — the  time  has  been  too  con- 
tracted to  draw  a conclusion.  A heathen’s  mind 
cannot  be  enlightened  in  a day,  neither  is  it  reasona- 
ble to  suppose  that  his  heart  will  be  renovated,  until 
his  judgment  is  informed.  The  means  which  ordina- 


260 


SIAM. 


rily  lead  to  this  result  have  not  been  employed.  "We 
have  done  but  little  more  than  scatter  the  good  seed, 
and  that  upon  ground  loaded  with  noxious  weeds, 
without  having  had  time  to  witness  its  springing, 
and  none  to  cherish  it  into  lively  strength. 

And  here  it  may  not  be  misplaced  to  caution  the 
reader  against  those  favorable,  though  false  conclu- 
sious,  which  are  too  frequently  deduced  from  mis- 
sionary journals.  The  difficulties  of  writing  so  as  to 
iziform  the  Christian  world  of  actual  occurrences,  and 
yet  not  to  sacrifice  a faithful  report  to  the  dreaded 
evils  of  misinterpretation,  every  missionary’’  must  feel. 
The  song  of  the  ploughman  and  sower,  especially 
if  he  express  the  joyous  expectation  of  the  harvest,  is 
confounded  with  the  shouts  of  the  reaper,  and  then, 
when  the  mistake  is  discovered,  the  laborer  and  not 
the  listener  is  blamed.  We  do  not  say  that  no  mis- 
conceptions have  been  transferred  from  the  mind 
of  the  sanguine  reporter  to  his  reader ; but  in  the  great 
majority  of  cases  where  mistakes  exist,  we  believe 
they  originate  with  the  latter.  For  instance,  when 
we  speak  of  the  avidity  with  which  the  heathen  re- 
ceive Clmistian  books,  the  best  motive  is  charitably 
conceded  them,  when  even  the  worst  may  have  been 
artfully  concealed.  “NMien  their  conversation  is  de- 
tailed, they  receive  credit  for  a certain  amount  of 
knowledge,  which  among  Christians  is  connected 
with  their  expressed  sentiments,  but  which  their  fii- 


SIAM. 


261 


tiire  lives  prove  they  do  not  possess.  They  are 
believed  sincere,  when  they  neither  feel  what  they 
say,  nor  know  that  the  truths  they  profess  should  con- 
trol the  heart.  Their  own  views  and  associations 
of  every  thing  sacred  are  so  opposite. to  ours,  that 
without  much  experience  and  severe  scrutiny,  we 
cannot  determine  the  standard  by  which  to  test  them  ; 
and  even  with  this  intimate  acquaintance  with 
their  modes  of  thought,  and  measures  of  estimate, 
there  is  constant  danger  of  being  deceived  through  the 
hypocrisy  of  some,  and  the  self-ignorance  of  others. 

In  our  excursions  abroad,  and  in  their  visits  to 

us,  we  met  with  numbers  who  evinced  a superficial 

/ 

knowledge  of  the  contents  of  the  book  we  had  distri- 
buted. A few,  we  thought,  manifested  some  impres- 
sion of  the  truth  upon  their  hearts.  We  had  pleasing 
evidence  that  the  spirit  of  inquiry  was  abroad ; but 
there  were  no  grounds  of  certainty  to  conclude  that 
any  had  been  “ renewed  in  the  spirit  of  their  minds.” 


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CHAPTER  XI. 


PASSAGE  TO  SINGAPORE  AND  MALACCA. 

January  14th,  1822. — Soon  after  midnight,  on 
Friday  last,  we  left  Bankok  and  proceeded  in  a barge 
to  Paknam,  where  the  brig  Sebastian  was  lying. 
Capt.  D.  L.  Shaw  had  insisted  upon  our  taking  a 
passage  with  him,  for  which  he  refused  all  compen- 
sation. Messrs.  Hunter  and  McDonald,  by  whom  the 
ship  was  chartered,  and  the  only  Europeans  in  the 
place,  were  among  our  fellow  passengers.  We  reach- 
ed the  brig  early  on  Saturday  morning,  and  imme- 
diately weighed  anchor.  In  passing  over  the  bar  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Meinara,  the  line  gave  just  as  much 
water  as  the  vessel  drew  ; yet  nothing  occurred  to 
impede  our  progress,  and  in  a few  hours  we  were 
ploughing  our  way  down  the  Gulf  of  Siam.  With  a 
leading  wind  almost  the  whole  passage,  and  with  no 
obstacle,  apparent  danger,  or  peculiarity  of  any  kind, 
we  reached  Singapore  yesterday  (Friday)  morning. 
I took  up  my  abode  with  Mr.  Thomsen,  and  T.  pro- 
ceeded to  Malacca,  where  Mrs.  Tomlin  is  residing. 


264 


SINGAPORE. 


Singapore  is  an  important  missionary  station.  It 
contains  a population  of  about  twenty-one  thousand 
souls,  of  whom  upwards  of  eight  thousand  are  Chi- 
nese, and  seven  thousand  Malays.  But  its  great- 
est value  consists  in  its  relative  advantages.  There 
is  no  other  mart  of  commerce  so  much  frequented 
by  native  vessels,  from  the  different  kingdoms  and 
islands  of  South-Eastern  Asia.  China,  Cochin- 
China,  Cambodjia,  Siam,  the  Malayan  Peninsula,  | 
on  the  continent,-  and  Sumatra,  Java,  Borneo, 
Celebes,  Bali,  Manilla,  besides  many  other  islands 
farther  east,  and  numerous  places  of  less  importance, 
in  all  the  neighboring  settlements  of  the  Straits,  send 
forth  their  yearly  fleets  to  this  free  port ; and  return 
to  their  respective  places,  loaded  Avith  the  comforts, 
the  luxuries,  drugs  and  dregs  of  civilized  nations. 
Many  of  these  proas  are  from  places  which  have 
never  been  fi-equented  by  Europeans,  and  where  there 
would  be  the  utmost  hazard  in  venturing. 

How  important  that  this  fountain  of  commerce 
should  be  supplied  with  “ the  water  of  life,”  and  made 
to  send  forth  its  rich  streams  into  the  different  and  dis- 
tant tracts  of  heathenism  with  which  it  comimunicates. 

But  like  the  other  ultra-Ganges  stations,  Singapore 
has  received  very  little  attention  from  Christian  soci- 
eties at  home.  At  present,  Mr.  Thomsen  is  the  only 
missionary  in  the  place.  Being  laboriously  engaged 
in  the  work  of  translation  and  printing — the  primary 


SINGAPORE. 


265 


and  most  indispensable  business  of  a missionary — 
and  enervated,  almost  exhausted,  by  the  ravages  of  a 
protracted  illness,  he  has  but  little  time  and  strength 
to  attend  to  the  external  duties  of  the  station.  At  pre- 
sent, there  is  not  a Chinese  missionary  on  the  island. 
Singapore  demands  the  labors  of  at  least  four  men. 
The  Chinese  would  tax  the  energies  of  one  mission- 
ary. Two  should  be  constantly  engaged  in  supplying 
the  different  native  vessels  with  Christian  books,  and 
in  visiting  the  numerous  native  villages  on  the  cir- 
cumjacent islands ; and  one  would  find  abundant  oc- 
cupation in  his  study,  and  at  the  press.  Availing 
themselves  of  the  influence  of  some  of  the  merchants, 
and  of  pecuniary  pledges,  by  which  the  late  Mr. 
Dalton  was  secured,  missionaries  might  make  ex- 
cursions and  inroads  into  some  of  the  most  popu- 
lous and  benighted  islands  in  the  Archipelago.  The 
usefulness  of  such  men  would  be  limited  only  by  their 
spirit  of  faith  and  enterprise. 

At  Singapore  is  the  great  factory  of  Malayan  pub- 
lications, and  the  depot  of  Christian  books,  in  the 
common  languages  of  the  Straits,  and  neighboring 
islands.  A greatly  altered  version  of  the  Malayan 
New  Testament  is  nearly  completed  by  Mr.  Thom- 
sen, and  will  soon  be  ready  to  take  the  place  of  the 
old  copy,  prepared  by  the  early  Dutch  chaplains.  Con- 
sidering the  poverty  of  the  language,  and  the  many 
disadvantages  under  which  its  translation  was  made, 
23 


266 


SINGAPORE. 


the  old  copy  is  a work  of  much  merit ; still,  as  could 
scarcely  be  otherwise,  it  contains  words  and  phrases 
quite  unintelligible  to  the  reader,  who  neither  under- 
stands the  Arabic  vocabulary,  nor  the  Bible  idiom. 
Beside  this  important  work,  which  is  now  partially 
printed,  a number  of  others  have  issued  from  the 
same  head  and  press,  and  been  extensively  circulated. 
There  are  at  present  three  Chinese  schools,  in  the 
place,  under  the  superintendence  of  Miss  Martin. 
The  little  comparative  stress  laid  upon  the  mere  ac- 
quisition of  the  Chinese  characters,  and  the  pains 
taken  to  illustrate  the  ideas  they  convey  in  the  moth- 
efs*  tongue  of  the  children,  is  highly  commendable, 
and  worthy  of  universal  imitation.  A knowledge  of 
the  language  is  their  only  inducement  to  attend,  but 
as  the  books  employed  are  all  adapted  to  a more  im- 
portant branch  of  knowledge,  the  great  object  of  the 
teachers  may  be  readily  gained  without  interfering 
with  that  of  the  parents  and  children. 

Formerly  there  were  two  or  three  Malay  schools, 
under  the  superintendence  of  Mrs.  Thomsen,  but  a 
want  of  sufficient  health  to  contend  with  the  embar- 
rassments, which  indifference,  indolence,  and  Maho- 
medanism  combined  to  produce,  have  obliged  her  to 
discontinue  her  labors  for  the  present. 

The  good  which  might  be  effected  in  Singapore 


The  mothers  are  Malays,  the  fathers  Chinese. 


SINGAPORE. 


267 


by  education,  is  incalculable.  It  is  true  it  requires 
much  zeal,  self-denial,  and  perseverance  in  the  teach- 
ers, but  if  there  were  those  who  gave  their  sole  atten- 
tion to  the  schools,  the  obstacles  which  now  exist 
would  gradually  yield,  until  the  task  would  become 
comparatively  easy.  The  sphere  is  peculiarly  adapt- 
ed to  ladies.  A number  of  girl  and  infant  schools 
might  be  established  to  the  great  advantage  of  chil- 
dren, parents,  and  society  at  large. 

The  European  population  of  Singapore  are  great- 
ly favored  in  the  faithful  preaching  of  one,*  who  has 
their  eternal  welfare  at  heart,  and  whose  prayers  and 
councils  and  purse  and  heart  and  hands  are  devoted 
to  every  cause  that  glorifies  his  Lord. 

January  29th. — Gradually  improving  in  strength, 
we  concluded  to  spend  part  of  yesterday  among  the 
Chinese,  Malays,  and  others  in  the  town.  The  en- 
gagement was  very  animating.  We  soon  separated — 
Mr.  Thomsen  took  the  Malays,  and  Kalings  and  I 
the  Chinese.  Wherever  we  stopped,  numbers  gather- 
ed around  us,  and  listened  to  our  remarks,  and  receiv- 
ed our  boolcs  with  the  utmost  readiness.  They  even 
came  to  the  door  of  the  carriage  to  solicit  tracts, 
when  they  were  all  disposed  of,  and  we  were  about 
returning  home. 

February  26th. — This  morning  we<  took  a num- 


The  Rey.  R.  Burn. 


268 


SINGAPORE. 


her  of  books  in  three  of  the  most  current  languages 
of  the  straits,  and  visited  the  southern  and  western 
shores  of  Singapore  island.  On  the  way  we  passed 
a number  of  boats  covered  with  small  mats,  and  inha- 
bited by  a race  - of  people,  who  prefer  these  confined 
prisons'  to  a residence  on  land.  As  their  mode  of 
life  is  the  same  as  those  who  dwell  on  the  waters  in 
China,  and  tradition  says  that  the  latter  are  emigrants 
from  some  external  country,  it  is  at  least  possible,  that 
they  and  the  orang  laut,  as  these  are  called,  may 
have  had.  a common  origin.  They  live  almost  as  irra- 
tionally and  slothfully  as  the  indolent  tribes  of  beasts 
around,  them.  Every  movement  seems  dictated  by 
the  necessities  of  the  day. 

We  found  a very  thin  scattered  population  on 
shore,  and  scarcely  any  of  them  capable  of  reading. 
They  had  lately  caught  two  or  three  tigers,  of  a huge 
size  and  terrific  appearance.  Their  snare  is  a large 
hole,  which  they  fill  with  water,  and  then  cover  over 
with  brush.  A dog  is  fastened  to  the  centre  of  a nar- 
row board,  which  passes  over  the  pit,  and  is  made  of 
such  a frail  material,  that  when  the  ravenous  animal 
leaps  upon  his  prey,  there  is  nothing  to  support  him, 
and  he  sinks  into  the  water  beneath.  In  some  places 
the  country  had  been  cleared  and  entirely  deserted. 
After  forming  a settlement,  by  removing  all  the  thick 
underwood,  and  planting  fruit  trees,  if  a sudden  death, 
or  something  a little  uncommon  occurs,  they  imagine 


SINGAPORE. 


269 


that  the  place  is  infested  by  some  malicious  spirit,  and 
immediately  leave  it.  We  found  a few  Chinese  scat- 
tered aboiit,  where  there  were  any  advantages  for 
making  money,  and  to  them,  and  to  all  who  could 
read,  we  gave  books. 

March  6th,  Tuesday. — Left  Singapore  for  Malacca 
in  one  of  the  small  vessels,  plying  between  the  two 
places.  I was  the  only  exception  to  a crew  and  cargo 
of  Chinese,  and  natives  of  the  country.  The  place 
assigned  for  European  passengers  is  so  low  and  cram- 
med with  goods,  that  I was  obliged  to  creep  into  it, 
and  then  the  only  change  of  posture  was  between 
lying  and  sitting.  Still  there  was  a free  current  of 
air,  which  is  far  more  important  in  these  hot  regions, 
than  all  other  external  comforts.  Had  the  breeze 
with  which  we  started,  continued,  twenty-four  hours 
would  have  completed  our  passage,  but  as  we  were 
becalmed,  through  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  we 
did  not  arrive  until  Monday  morning.  The  num- 
ber of  Chinese  on  board,  afforded  free  exercise  for 
my  stammering  tongue,  and  rendered  the  voyage 
a season  of  instruction  to  at  least  a few  of  them. 

The  town  of  Malacca,  from  the  offing,  has  a ru- 
ral aspect.  It  stands  on  a plain  with  numerous  trees 
interspersed  among  the  houses,  though  without  any 
striking  feature  of  peculiarity  or  prominence.  The 
most  commanding  object  in  the  vicinity,  is  the  ruins 
23* 


270 


MALACCA. 


of  a lar^e  Catholic  church,  founded  by  Francis  Xavier, 
which  occupies  the-principal  elevation  near  the  sea- 
shore. There  is  a small  light-house  and  telegraphic 
apparatus  upon  the  same  site.  The  interior  of  the 
country  is  diversified  with  a few  hills,  and  a range  of 
distant  mountains  bounds  the  prospect. 

The  place  is  rendered  sacred,  by  the  early  death  of 
two  most  useful  missionaries.  Milne  and  Collie  are 
names  which  shall  ever  be  remembered  among  the 
distinguished  benefactors  of  Chin^.  Though  their 
career  was  brief,  their  labors  were  arduous,  and  the 
works  they  have  written  and  translated  into  the  Chi- 
nese language,  are  among  the  means  by  which  the 
regeneration  of  that  empire  is  to  be  produced  Mr. 
Hughes  is  the  only  missionary  at  the  station.  Tom- 
lin returned  with  me  from  Siam,  to  take  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  college ; Mr.  Kidd,  the  principal, 
having  been  obliged  to  return  to  Europe  for  the  bene- 
fit of  his  health. 

March  9th. — Malacca  boasts  of  a healthful  climate, 
interesting  scenery,  and  pleasant  roads.  The  prin- 
cipal “ drive”  for  exercise,  is  around  a large  Chinese 
cemetery,  which  stretches  over  an  irregular  surface 
of  ground,  and  incloses  two  or  three  miles  within  its 
limits.  Some  of  the  tombs  are  extensive  and  orna- 
mental. There  are  one  or  two  retreats  a few  miles 
from  the  town,  along  the  sea-shore,  to  which  the  resi- 


MALACCA. 


271 


dents  resort  for  relaxation  from  duty,  and  bodily  re- 
creation. 

This  evening,  attended  a religious  meeting,  in  one 
of  the  Chinese  schools.  It  was  conducted  as  lecture 
meetings  are  in  Christian  lands,  by  prayer,  singing, 
reading,  and  exhortation.  More  than  a dozen  China- 
men were  present,  and  gave  good  attention.  The 
place,  object,  worshippers,  and  especially  the  season, 
a week  day  evening,  gave  a peculiar  interest  to  the 
occasion.  Oh  how  animating  the  prospect,  when  the 
Lord  shall  be  worshipped  in  heathen,  as  in  Christian 
lands ; much  more  delightful,  when  “ His  will  shall  be 
done  in  earth,  as  it  is  in  heaven.” 

March  12th. — The  Anglo-Chinese  college,  situa- 
ted in  this  place,  was  instituted  for  the  purpose  of 
qualifying  young  men  to  become  teachers  to  their 
countrymen,  with  the  earnest  hope  that  the  “ God 
of  all  grace”  would  sanctify  their  talents  to  himself. 
Among  the  few  who  have  fully  answered  the  ex- 
pectations of  the  missionaries,  is  Leang-Afa,  who 
received  his  early  and  lasting  impressions,  while 
engaged  as  a printer  to  the  institution.  If  native 
teachers  are  to  become  the  chief  instruments  in 
the  conversion  of  the  nations,  schools  of  this  kind 
are  probably  to  be  the  means,  by  which  they  are  to 
be  trained  for  their  office.  For  some  years  past,  the 
number  of  young  Chinese  in  the  college  has  equalled 


272 


MALACCA. 


between  five-and-twenty,  and  thirty.  The  aim  of  the 
teachers  is  to  give  them  instruction  in  the  Christian 
books,  translated  into  their  language — also  to  teach 
them  the  English,  and  advance  them  in  their  own  lite- 
ral ure.  All  the  Chinese  connected  in  any  capacity 
with  the  institution,  are  called  together  eveiy  morning 
at  seven  o’clock,  for  the  reading  of  the  Scriptures,  sing- 
ing and  prayer.  An  hour  afterwards,  those  who  do  not 
understand  the  Chinese,  are  collected  by  the  Malay 
missionary  for  the  same  purpose.  The  remainder  of 
the  time  is  devoted  to  their  several  engagements,  and 
the  day  is  concluded  as  it  was  commenced. 

On  the  Sabbath,  there  is  preaching  in  the  chapel 
belonging  to  the  society,  by  both  the  missionaries,  in 
the  languages  of  their  departments.  Two  or  three 
stated  services  are  also  held  in  the  week,  generally  in 
the  school-rooms,  where  a small  number  assemble,  and 
the  services  are  conducted  as  the  one  described. 

Connected  with  the  college,  is  a printing  establish- 
ment, where  a large  proportion  of  the  Christian  books 
distributed  at  the  different  Chinese  stations,  is  prepar- 
ed. There  are  also  fonts  of  English  and  Arabic 
type,  the  latter  for  the  Malayan  language.  Malacca 
is  highly  and  justly  celebrated  for  the  number  of  its 
native  schools.  Children  of  Chinese,  Malay,  Porttt- 
guese,  and  Kaling  parents  are  all  taught  in  their  re- 
spective languages,  the  truths  of  Christianity. 


♦ r 


MALACCA. 


273 


There  are,  at  present,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
or  two  hundred  Chinese  boys,  belonging  to  the  schools, 
superintended  by  the  principal  of  the  college  ; one  hun- 
dred Chinese  girls  under  the  instruction  of  Miss  Wal- 
lace ; ’between  two  hundred  and  fifty  and  three  hun- 
dred Malay  children,  under  the  care  of  Mr.  Hughes, 
the  Malay  missionary  ; and  about  two  hundred  more, 
principally  Tamul  and  Portuguese,  in  the  charge  of  the 
ladies  belonging  to  the  Resident’s  household,  and  one 
or  two  others  of  a kindred  zeal,  who  live  in  the  place. 
These  schools,  as  the  reader  may  infer,  afford  a fine 
sphere  for  female  usefulness.  They  have  been  much 
blessed  with  the  influence  and  efficient  labors  of  , 
active  ladies,  and  might  be  made  still  more  exten- 
sively beneficial,  if  they  received  the  patronage  from 
abroad  which  they  require.*  Alas  that  this  should 
be  the  chief  complaint,  in  every  place  where  ef- 
forts are  made  for  the  conversion  of  the  heathen. 
In  every  plan  of  Christian  benevolence,  the  mis- 
sionaries and  teachers  find  a liberal  patron,  an  effi- 
cient coadjutor  and  a most  congenial  friend  in  the 
Hon.S.  Garling,  Resident  of  the  station. 

On  Tuesday  evening,  March  27th,  left  Malacca  in 

' Since  the  above  was  wrftten,  some  of  the  girls'  schools  have 
been  suspended  for  want  of  funds,  and  two  or  three  ladies,  who  took 
an  active  part  in  teaching,  have  been  removed.  It  is  highly  im- 
portant that  female  education  in  Malacca,  and  in  all  the  East,  should 
be  taken  up  by  ladies  at  home,  and  supported  with  the  zeal  and 
perseverance  wliich  the  object  demands. 


274 


SINGAPORE. 


a native  brig,  bound  to  Singapore,  with  such  a num- 
ber of  fellow-passengers,  principally  Chinese,  as  at 
night  filled  the  berths,  covered  the  floor  of  the  poop- 
cabin,  occupied  much,  if  not  all  of  the  space  below 
decks,  and  rendered  it  ditficult  to  walk,  without  tread- 
ing upon  some  of  them.  Owing  to  calms,  opposing 
winds,  and  numerous  obstructions  on  the  uncoppered 
bottom  of  the  vessel,  we  did  not  arrive  until  Monday 
morning,  April  2d. 

When  confined  a number  of  days,  with  the  same 
persons,  it  is  difficult,  without  a great  command  of 
tJieir  language,  to  comply  with  the  promptings  of 
duty  and  compassion  towards  them.  The  subject  of 
Christianity,  after  being  introduced  a few  times,  and 
enlarged  upon  sufficiently  to  teach  them  how  they 
can  be  saved,  becomes  stale,  and  requires  a variety  of 
phraseology  to  place  it  in  different  lights,  and  render 
it  at  all  interesting.  One  expedient  has  been  adopted, 
and  I believe  with  profit.  When  assembled  in  groups 
for  conversation,  of  which  they  are  very  fond,  I have 
interrupted  them — offered  the  most  respectable  of 
their  number  a Christian  book,  to  read  and  explain,  for 
the  edification  of  the  rest ; and  then  joined  the  com- 
pany upon  the  floor,  as  an  auditor  and  occasional 
prompter.  At  these  seasons  I have  felt  the  deepest 
interest  in  interceding  in  their  behalf,  and  could  not 
but  hope  that  the  plan  would  be  blessed. 

After  returning  to  Singapore,  the  writer  awaited 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


275 


the  first  opportunity  for  Siam.  Daring  this  interval, 
he  frequently  accompanied  Mr.  Thomsen  in  the  dis- 
tributiorisof  books,  both  on  shore  and  in  the  harbor. 
The  season  at  which  the  Chinese  visit  the  tombs,  af- 
forded an  opportunity  for  much  exertion,  both  in  teach- 
ing them  orally  and  in  distributing  books.  All  the 
junks  from  China  were  supplied,  and  others  from  Siam, 
which  were  manned  with  Chinese  sailors. 

April  18th. — Last  evening  embarked  in  a China 
junk,  for  Siam.  An  effort  was  made  to  procure  a 
passage,  immediately  on  my  arrival  from  Malacca, 
but  the  captains  of  the  junks  refused  to  take  me, 
from  fear  of  incurring  the  displeasure  of  the  Siamese 
king.  For  the  present  opportunity,  I am  indebted  to 
the  kindness  of  AV.  Scott,  Esq.  the  custom-house  of- 
ficer, who,  from  his  situation,  has  much  influence 
with  the  Chinese. 

The  junk  is  about  three  hundred  tons  in  size.  In 
construction  she  is  rather  superior  to  the  majority  of 
Chmese  vessels,  presenting  a less  stern-like,  semi-lunar 
bow  to  the  water,  and  consequently  being  swifter  and 
safer.  She  carries  upwards  of  forty  men,  and  has 
one  or  two  passengers  beside  myself.  Mine  is  the  only 
white  face  and  English  tongue  on  board.  It  will 
probably  surprise  a western  sailor  to  learn,  that  the 
men  receive  only  about  fifteen  dollars  a voyage,  which 
consumes  generally  from  four  to  nine  months,  and  it 
will  be  no  less  amusing  to  a western  traveller  to  hear 


276 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


that  a native  passenger  pays  but  four  dollars  from 
Singapore  to  Siam,  including  his  fare,  which  in 
itself  is  one,  and  at  times,  two  months’  board  and 
lodging. 

The  place  of  residence  assigned  me,  is  a box  on 
the  quarter-deck,  resembling  an  oven,  and  so  strait- 
ened in  its  dimensions,  that  it  can  contain  very  little 
except  myself,  and  will  allow  me  to  sit  upright 
upon  a low  trunk.  With  the  exception  of  the  cap-^ 
tain,  who  probably  wishes  to  frighten  me  out  of  a 
little  more  money,  or  into  a little  less  comfort  than 
was  stipulated,  the  crew  are  rudely  civil  and  obliging. 

19th. — Have  succeeded  in  changing  my  apartment 
for  another  at  its  side,  less  attractive  in  external  ap- 
pearance, but  rather  broader  and  cooler  than  the  one  I 
left.  The  captain  has  relaxed  the  muscles  of  his  face, 
and  we  are  all  now  on  the  best  possible  terms.  It 
proves  a great  source  of  amusement  to  them,  to  see 
me  walk  the  deck  for  exercise.  Comfort  and  bodily 
exertion  of  any  kind  appear  to  the  minds  of  all  these 
natives,  as  strangers,  if  not  irreconcilable  enemies. 
They  have  an  idea  that  this  exercise  must  be  a reli- 
gious performance  ; and  when  I come  out,  they  fre- 
quently mention  the  number  of  steps  and  turns  which 
the  duty  demands.  This  I attempt  to  show  them,  by 
disappointing  all  their  conjectures,  is  the  suggestion 
of  their  own  fancies.  It  requires  much  presence  of 
mind,  in  taking  recreation,  not  to  interfere  with  some 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


277 


of  their  strange  notions.  They  have  an  idea,  that 
walking  with  the  hands  behind  the  back  is  an  ill 
omen,  and  retards  the  progress  of  the  vessel.  Other 
whims,  too  numerous  and  absurd  to  mention,  prove 
rather  annoying,  where  there  is  no  disposition  to  be 
unbending  in  trifles,  and  none  to  indulge  them  in 
their  superstitions.  I find  it  an  excellent  school  for 
the  employment  and  improvement  of  my  limited  abili- 
ty in  that  dialect  of  the  language  which  is  of  the  most 
service  in  Siam. 

21st. — All  things  go  on  well  but  the  junk,  and  she 
reminds  one  of  a well-saturated  log  of  wood,  in  her 
grievous,  groaning  movements.  For  the  last  forty- 
eight  hours,  it  is  doubtful  whether  we  have  made 
more  than  half  that  number  of  miles.  When  the  wind 
is  abeam,  so  great  is  the  lee- way,  that  there  is  compa- 
ratively but  little  advantage  in  weighing  the  large 
wooden  anchor.  If  by  any  means  they  are  obliged 
to  lower  the  main-sail,  it  is  painful  to  witness  the  ex- 
ertion of  muscles  and  lungs  required  to  hoist  the  cum- 
brous mat*  to  its  place.  Two  windlasses,  one  of  which 
extends  across  the  junk,  and  the  other  from  the  main- 
mast to  the  side,  are  put  in  requisition,  in  this  labori- 
ous task.  The  muscles  of  the  Chinese  seem  de- 
termined to  be  laid  under  the  least  possible  obliga- 
tions to  mechanical  agency.  When  they  wish  to 
pump  the  ship,  a pole  is  placed  across,  and  some  height 

* The  sails  of  native  vessels  are  generally  made  of  mats. 

24 


278 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


above  the  hatch- way,  to  which  a pulley  is  suspended. 
At  one  end  of  the  rope  passing  through  the  pulley,  a 
large  bucket  is  let  down  aud  drawn  up  by  a number 
at  the  other  end,  while  one  or  two  are  stationed  below 
to  fill  it.  The  work  goes  on  most  cheerfully,  though 
with  the  least  show  of  subordination — the  sailors 
having  generally  as  much  to  say  as  the  officers,  and 
the  officers  as  much  to  do  as  the  sailors. 

23d. — Last  night  the  riot  and  revel  of  idolatry 
commenced.  From  the  parade  of  gongs,  gilt  paper, 
and  other  ominous  articles  with  which  I was  familiar, 
I was  apprised  of  their  intentions,  and  my  spirit  was 
stirred  wiffiin  me.  I raised  my  voice — endeavored  to 
convince  them  of  their  error,  ridiculed  their  folly, 
warned  them  of  their  guilt,  tried  every  expedient ; but 
all  in  vain.  The  gongs  and  drums  struck  up,  the 
paper  was  lighted,  and  cast  into  the  sea,  and  the  vain 
offering  quickly  and  irreverently  finished.  They  told 
me  that  the  morrow  was  the  birth-day  of  their  god- 
dess Ma-cho-po. 

This  morning,  at  the  dawn  of  day,  the  same  ser- 
vice was  performed,  and  again  at  eight  o’clock,  with 
many  additional  offerings  of  flesh,  flsh,  and  cake. 
Again  I summoned  my  tongue  to  the  contest ; 
but  with  no  better  success  than  before.  Some 
laughed ; others  were  angry.  The  chief  officer,  to 
whose  reason  an  appeal  was  made,  and  whose  pre- 
vious conduct  convinced  me  that  he  was  a man  of  sense. 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


279 


took  my  interference  in  high  dudgeon.  My  boy,  feel- 
ing apprehensive  of  the  consequences  of  denouncing 
their  popular  deity  with  such  forwardness,  came  and 
begged  me  to  desist.  I certainly  had  no  design  to 
irritate  them  needlessly,  nor  any  fear  of  attempting 
what  a sense  of  duty  prompted.  What  grieved  me 
peculiarly,  was  the  office  of  a quiet,  interesting  man, 
somewhat  advanced  in  life,  who  had  read  the  Chris- 
tian books  in  my  cabin,  and  who  appeared  to  com- 
prehend many  of  their  truths.  Instead  of  manifesting 
the  least  regard  to  what  he  had  been  taught,  he  stood 
before  the  image,  kneeled  a number  of  times,  and 
bowed  his  hoary  head  almost  to  the  deck.  There 
was  but  one  retreat  from  this  affecting  scene,  and 
were  it  not  for  this  refuge,  the  missionary’s  heart 
would  often  sink  in  utter  despondency,  beneath  the 
pressure  of  his  trials.  Oh,  how  refreshing  it  is,  at 
such  seasons,  to  pour  out  the  soul  into  the  ear  of  Him 
who  not  only  has  the  power,  but  has  published  the 
determination  to  destroy  idolatry,  and  restore  his  ig- 
norant, rebellious  creatures  to  Himself. 

The  conversation  on  the  subject  of  idolatry  com- 
menced publicly  this  morning,  and  resumed  at  diffe- 
rent times  through  the  day,  will,  I sincerely  hope,  lead 
them  to  reflect  upon  the  stupidity,  as  well  as  the  crime, 
of  worshipping  those  whom  they  acknowledge  to 
have  been  but  men,  and  only  the  dumb  images  of 
whom  they  thus  reverence.  One  favorite  plea  with 


280 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


them  is,  that  different  countries  have  different  cus- 
toms— in  other  words,  that  fashion  is  law,  and  her 
vagaries  imperious.  Another  reason,  which,  if  true, 
would  be  more  rational,  is,  that  those  whom  they  wor- 
ship, though  they  were  mortals  like  themselves,  have 
been  transformed  into  gods,  as  the  reward  of  their 
merit. 

As  has  been  mentioned,  one  thing  which  gives 
peculiar  zest  to  a Chinaman’s  sacrifice,  is  the  feast 
which  follows.  A good  sized  porker,  preserved  many 
months  for  the  occasion,  was  slaughtered  this  morn- 
ing, and  after  the  formal  presentation  of  part  of  it  to 
the  image,  applied  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  was 
really  intended.  They  had  been  living  before  upon 
rice,  salt  fish  and  vegetables,  and  were  prepared  to 
welcome  and  enjoy  this  temporary  change  of  diet. 
Of  all  their  ordinary  meats,  pork  is  the  favorite  among 
the  Chines9i 

May  2d. — Contrary  to  the  expectations  of  myself 
and  others,  we  were  not  out  of  sight  of  land  more 
than  twenty-four  hours.  Five  days  have  nearly 
passed  since  we  opened  the  rugged  scenery  of  Trin- 
gano,  and  though  we  have  been  proceeding  with  all 
sails  set,  and  a considerable  breeze  a part  of  the  time, 
we  have  scarcely  succeeded  in  leaving  it  out  of  sight. 
Tringano  appears  to  be  a projection  from  the  penin- 
sula of  Malacca — peculiarly  varied  in  its  general  as- 
pect, and  notable  for  its  piracies.  It  is  said  that  the 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


281 


rajah  is  the  head  of  the  banditti.  I was  by  no  means 
grieved  to  learn  that  our  vessel  is  too  large  to  invite 
an  attack  from  these  desperate  marauders.  About 
three  years  ago,  my  friend  and  fellow-missionary, 
Medhurst,  visited  this  place,  in  a small  boat,  and  en- 
countered, the  most  frightful  dangers  from  the  pirates 
on  the  way. 

This  afternoon,  another  feat  of  idolatry  was  per- 
formed. It  was  intended  for  an  act  of  homage  to  the 
presiding  deity  of  a hill,  opposite  to  which  we  are 
sailing.  Lamps  were  lighted,  paper  burned,  cakes 
and  fruits  spread  on  a mat,  the  gongs  rung,  and  the 
aged  man,  spoken  of  before,  bowed  his  head  a num- 
ber of  times  nearly  to  the  deck.  My  spirits  have  sel- 
dom sunk  so  low.  After  what  has  been  said,  and 
what  their  reason  assents  to,  the  noise  sounded  to  me 
like  the  knell  of  the  second  death. 

9th.— Last  night  we  encountered  a severe  squall. 
The  lightning,  and  thunder,  and  wind,  and  rain,  gave 
the  scene  a sublimity,  which  the  hurried  confusion, 
and  want  of  skill  evident  among  the  boatmen,  would 
have  converted  into  terror  to  my  mind,  Iiad  it  not 
been  for  “ my  hiding-place  and  my  shield.”  When 
the  squall  came  on,  the  mate  called  for  gold  paper, 
and  holding  it  up  before  the  face  of  the  storm,  bowed, 
and  threw  it  into  the  deep.  The  terror  of  what  par- 
ticular deity  he  was  thus  appeasing,  would  probably 
have  puzzled  his  own  imagination  to  conjecture. 

24* 


282 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


Last  year  it  is  said  that  thirty  or  forty  vessels 
were  lost,  on  their  return  passage  from  different 
places.  My  teacher  says,  that  seventeen  which  sailed 
from  Siam,  and  four  out  of  six  from  Singapore,  bound 
to  China,  never  arrived.  Of  their  own  coasting  ves- 
sels, several  hundreds  are  reported  to  have  met  a 
similar  destiny. 

For  two  days  we  have  been  sailing  in  the  vicinity 
of  most  interesting  upland  scenery.  It  varies,  from 
the  small  mound,  through  almost  every  gradation  of 
height  and  peculiarity  of  formation,  to  the  lofty  moun- 
tain, at  whose  feet  this  morning’s  mists  were  spread 
in  delicate  fleeces,  and  whose  majestic  head  overloolts 
the  floating  clouds  which  love  to  linger  about  it. 
The  castellated  form  of  some  of  the  peaks,  rising  to  a 
considerable  perpendicular  elevation,  is  a peculiar 
feature. 

On  the  coasts  of  the  Malayan  peninsula,  there  is 
a number  of  native  states,  in  which,  according  to  the 
belief  of  those  who  have  visited  them,  missionaries 
might  reside  and  labor.  Some  of  these  are  subject  to 
the  king  of  Siam,  and  the  rest  under  the  government 
of  native  rajahs.  From  the  most  authentic  informa- 
tion that  could  be  obtained,  both  from  the  natives 
themselves,  and  the  Malays  in  their  vicinity,  it  ap- 
pears there  are  four  tribes  of  aborigines  living  in  the 
Malayan  peninsula,  and  known  by  the  name  of  the 
original  people,  or  Samang,  and  Sakei,  Udei,  Rayat. 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


283 


In  stature  and  features  they  are  all  like  the  Malays. 
The  Samang  tribe  live  in  the  depths  of  the  forest,  and 
never  come  down  to  the  villages.  They  neither  sow 
nor  plant,  but  subsist  upon  the  fruits  of  the  forest,  and 
the  spoils  of  the  chase.  Their  sole  employment  is 
hunting.  Whatever  they  meet  they  kill  with  the 
sum  pit,  and  eat  all,  whether  bird,  beast,  or  reptile. 
Their  language  is  not  understood  by  any  one  but 
themselves.  They  lisp  their  words,  the  sound  of 
which  is  very  indistinct,  more  like  the  noise  of  birds, 
than  the  voices  of  men.  They  have  neither  king  nor 
chief,  but  there  is  one  whom  they  style  Pnynvg,  to 
whom  they  refer  all  their  requests  and  complaints, 
invariably  abiding  by  his  decision.  They  have  no 
religion,  no  priests,  and  no  ideas  whatever  of  a Su- 
preme Being,  the  creation  of  the  world,  the  soul  of 
man,  sin,  heaven,  hell,  angels,  or  a day  of  judgment. 
The  puyurtg  instructs  them  in  matters  relating  to 
ghosts,  evil  spirits,  and  sorcery,  by  the  belief  of  which 
they  are  all  influenced.  They  never  quarrel  nor  go 
to  war  with  another  tribe.  When  one  of  the  Samang 
tribe  is  dead,  the  head  only  is  buried  ; the  body  is 
eaten  by  the  people,  who  collect  in  large  numbers  for 
that  purpose. 

The  aborigines  were  originally  one  tribe  only, 
known  in  Malacca  by  the  name  Jakon  ; from  them 
sprang  the  Sakei,Udei,  and  Rayat.  The  four  tribes  are 
much  alike  and  speak  the  same  language,  though 


284 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


they  keep  distinct.  Three  of  them  cultivate  the 
ground, trade  in  the  neighboring  villages,  and  bury 
their  dead.  The  bark  of  trees  furnishes  them  with 
clothing,  the  roots  and  leaves  with  medicine,  and  the 
branches  and  foliage  with  shelter  for  the  night. — 
They  are  entirely  ignorant  of  their  own  history, 
neither  knowing  whence,  nor  how,  nor  when  they 
came  to  the  country.* 

10th. — To-day  a new  feast  of  idolatry,  at  least 
new  to  me.  A raft  of  bamboos  was  prepared,  which 
they  almost  filled  with  gold  and  silver  paper.  This 
they  let  down  into  the  sea,  and  then  fired  the  paper, 
amid  the  noise  of  the  gong,  the  solemn  antics  of  the 
old  man,  and  the  offering  of  a variety  of  eatables, 
some  of  which,  with  less  than  their  usual  wisdom, 
were  thrown  into  the  water. 

14th. — Last  night  we  cast  anchor  outside  of  thebar, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Meinam;  and  now  we  are  waiting 
for  dispatches  from  the  owner  at  Bankok.  Notwith- 
standing the  rigid  laws  of  the  kingdom  against  the  im- 
portation of  opium,  and  the  rank  and  office  of  the 
one  to  whom  the  junk  belongs,  we  have  a quantity 
on  board,  which  will  no  doubt  detain  us,  until  safely 
smuggled  on  shore.  The  weather  is  very  oppressive. 
Scarcely  a breath  of  air  finds  its  way  into  my  apart- 
ment, while  the  sun  beats  upon  it  with  his  fiercest 

* These  extracts  are  from  a small  sheet  published  in  the  straits 
of  Malacca,  some  time  ago. 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


28S 


rays.  We  find  ourselves  greatly  favored,  notwith- 
standing the  apparent  dullness  of  our  daily  progress. 
Two  junks  came  to  anchor  shortly  after  we  arrived, 
one  of  which  sailed  one  month,  and  the  other  half  a 
month  before  us.  The  last  mentioned  one  refused  to 
take  me, — another  instance  of  the  Lord’s  kindness  in 
disappointing  our  plans. 

Thus  closes  the  passage.  I have  seldom,  if  ever, 
been  so  much  impressed  with  the  degradation  of  the 
heathen,  as  during  the  month  spent  on  board  this 
junk.  How  striking,  how  total  the  change  which  the 
Gospel  of  Jesus  makes  in  a rational  mind  ! In  fact, 
no  mind  is  rational,  until  restored  to  its  original  har- 
mony by  the  influence  of  the  Gospel.  The  condition 
of  the  heathen  is  more  deplorable  than  that  of  many 
maniacs  in  Christian  lands,  for  to  the  latter  there 
may  be  lucid  intervals.  They  are  sunk  below  the 
brutes,  for  their  apprehension  of  things  is  correct  as 
far  as  it  goes.  They  are  beneath  the  very  stock  and 
stone  they  worship,  for  these  cannot  mistake  their 
worshippers  for  dead  men — while  their  worshippers 
madly  confound  them  with  the  living.  No  ideas 
on  any  subject  is  preferable  to  wrong  impressions  of 
every  important  truth.  Ijet  those  who  say  there  are 
no  advantages  in  the  Christian  religion,  come  forth 
and  look  upon  these  heathen.  Civilization, — if  that 
which  has  not  a true  religion  for  its  basis  merits  the 
name, — has  been  exerting  its  influence  for  centuries. 


286 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


among  the  nation  to  which  this  crew  belongs.  And  - 
yet  what  do  they  know  1 All  that  they  behold  in 
creation — all  that  they  witness  in  providence — all 
that  their  reason  can  suggest — does  not  lead  them, 
neither  did  it  their  sages,  to  the  obvious  conclusion, 
that  there  is  one  Supreme  Being.  In  regard  to  the 
object  of  the  present  life,  the  realities  of  the  future, 
and  every  thing  relating  to  their  eternal  interests,  no 
frenzied  imagination  could  be  wilder.  And  this 
ignorance  extends  not  only  to  the  most  important  of 
all  truths,  but  also  to  the  most  simuie  subjects  of 
worldly  science.  Of  history,  geography,  astronomy, 
philosophy,  medicine,  all  of  which  they  profess  to  un- 
derstand, they  know  but  very  little  ; and  the  influence 
of  that  little  is  nullified  by  the  crowd  of  errors  with 
which  it  is  mixed  up.  I sincerely  hope  that  the  mode 
and  frequency  of  social  worship,  and  the  observance 
of  the  Sabbath  which  they  have  witnessed,  with  the 
books  distributed,  and  our  frequent  conversations, 
may  be  blessed  to  the  eternal  welfare  of  some  of  these 
ignorant  though  amiable  men.  Four  of  us  have 
daily  crowded  into  my  little  den,  and  regularly  main- 
tained a morning  and  evening  service.  It  has  been  a 
source  of  frequent  regret,  that  there  was  no  place  on 
board  sufficiently  spacious  to  accommodate  more, 
where  the  noise  and  bustle  were  not  so  great  as  to 
prevent  the  performance  of  religious  exercises. 

16th. — 'Still  at  anchor.  A number  of  Chinese 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


287 


junks  returning  to  the  empire,  and  smaller  ones  pass- 
ing to  and  from  the  Meinam  gives  much  life  to  the 
scene.  It  is  said  there  are  upwards  of  eighty  vessels 
trading  between  China  and  Siam  this  season.  Beside 
the  exercise  of  patience,  it  affords  a favorable  oppor- 
tunity, as  the  eye  ranges  over  a part  of  this  heathen 
kingdom,  to  reflect  upon  the  nature  and  dreadful  re- 
sponsibility of  the  missionary  work,  under  existing 
circumstances.  Were  it  not  for  the  promise  of  suffi- 
cient grace,  and  the  constant  intercessions  of  the  Ad- 
vocate with  the  Father,  the  mind  would  recoil  from 
the  contemplation,  and  if  it  could  not  bury  itself  in 
forgetfulness,  would  lie  down  in  despair.  And  why 
should  one  be  left  to  attempt  alone,  what  devolves  upon 
many,  as  an  equal  duty,  and  what  demands  the  united 
labors  of  a host  1 Can  the  unwillingness,  or  even  the 
deepest  sense  of  unfitness  to  come  up  to  the  help  of 
the  Lord,  release  any  from  the  obligation  imposed  by 
the  Saviour’s  command  ? Exalted,  though  neglected 
Saviour,  arise,  and  plead  thine  own  cause  ; then  shall 
the  heathen  be  saved. 

19th,  Friday. — After  a detention  of  three  days, 
before  the  owner  could  receive  information  of  our  ar- 
rival, and  the  opium  could  be  transferred  to  vessels 
better  adapted  to  smuggling,  we  weighed  anchor,  and 
entered  the  Meinam.  With  a fresh  and  free  breeze, 
we  soon  reached  Paknam,  which  is  the  post  of  the 
first  revenue  ofiicer.  To  this  town  the  river  is  lined 


288 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 


with  a thick  jungle,  with  no  cleared  spots,  and 
with  but  one  or  two  fisherman’s  huts  along  the  shore. 
The  following  morning  a number  of  government 
officers  came  onboard,  and  after  drinking  tea,  and  dis- 
puting with  the  captain  some  time  about  the  amount 
of  presents,  more  properly  bribes,  each  should  receive, 
they  bore  away  their  fardels,  and  left  us  to  proceed. 
They  did  not  know  but  that  every  box  on  board,  ex- 
cept one  of  mine  to  which  their  curiosity  pointed  them, 
and  every  part  of  the  ship,  except  the  most  exposed 
places,  were  stowed  with  contraband  goods. 

To  a stranger,  the  curiosity  of  the  Siamese,  and 
country-born  Chinese,  appears  very  childish.  While 
I was  sitting  and  conversing  with  one  of  them,  two 
or  three  were  behind  me,  examining  my  dress,  and 
lifting  up  the  outer  garment  to  see  the  texture  and 
number  of  those  within.  Their  cupidity  is  as  annoy- 
ing, as  their  curiosity  is  amusing.  Their  ideas  of 
beneficence  are  limited  to  deeds  of  alms-giving — prin- 
cipally the  support  of  the  priests,  and  when  one  of 
them,  of  some  rank,  heard  that  I was  engaged  in  ob- 
jects of  benevolence,  he  gave  me  no  rest,  with  his  un- 
wearied importunity — first  begging  for  what  caught 
his  eyes,  and  then  for  money.  That  I should  have 
come  to  Siam,  without  the  expectation  or  desire  of 
amassing  wealth — merely  to  teach  them  about  the  God 
of  heaven,  and  give  them  books  and  medicine,  was 
so  incredible  to  those  who  had  heard  little  of  the  mis- 


SINGAPORE. 


289 


sionaries  before,  that  they  would  repeat  the  same  ques- 
tion about  my  object  in  coming,  as  though  the  reply 
they  uniformly  received  was  too  absurd  to  claim  a 
moment’s  remembrance. 

After  the  morning  scene  closed,  and  the  tide  favor- 
ed, we  proceeded  up  the  river,  doubtful  whether  we 
should  be  able  to  pass  the  situation  of  another  custom- 
house officer,  about  twelve  miles  further,  without  some 
detention.  The  officer  did  not  even  board  us.  Here, 
as  at  Paknam,  are  batteries  on  each  side  of  the  river, 
one  of  which  is  very  extensive,  with  quite  a collection 
of  native  huts  in  their  vicinity.  On  Friday  morning, 
I left  the  junk  at  anchor  a few  miles  below  Bankok, 
and  came  in  a small  boat  to  the  house  of  our  former 
patron  and  friend  Mr.  Silveira. 

My  second  residence  in  Siam  consumed  between 
five  and  six  months.  The  object  which  hastened  my 
departure  from  the  straits,  before  there  could  be  a ra- 
tional hope  of  the  restoration  of  health,  was  the  sup- 
plying of  the  Chinese  junks,  about  returning  to  the 
empire,  with  Christian  books.  It  appeared  so  doubt- 
ful whether,  even  if  I remained  longer  at  Singapore,  I 
should  not  be  eventually  compelled  to  try  a change 
to  a cold  climate,  that  I felt  determined,  rather  to  ha- 
zard the  experiment  upon  my  health,  than  to  sufter  an 
opportunity  of  such  extensive  usefulness  to  pass  un- 
improved. With  the  blessing  of  the  Lord,  striking, 
and  encouraging  in  many  respects,  I arrived  in  time 

25 


290 


SINGAPORE. 


to  furnish  about  fifty  junks,  bound  to  China,  and  Hai- 
nam,  its  dependency,  with  the  Scriptures  and  Chris- 
tian books.  The  delay  of  a week  would  have  lessen- 
ed this  number  materially.  Nearly  thirty  had  already 
sailed,  and  the  rest  were  hastening  away  with  the 
greatest  dispatch.  This  engagement  employed  the 
mornings  and  evenings  of  nearly  three  weeks,  at  the 
close  of  which  a return  of  debility  confined  me  to  in- 
door labors,  and  even  these,  for  much  of  the  time  re- 
ceived but  a superficial  attention. 

The  most  hopeful  circumstance,  connected  with  the 
mission,  is  the  number  of  attendants  upon  our  Sabbath 
exercises.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  time  between 
twelve  and  twenty  Chinese  have  been  present,  few  in- 
deed, contrasted  with  the  myriads,  who  cling  with 
madness  to  their  idols,  but  encouraging  when  com- 
pared with  the  past.  Our  auditory  heis  been  gradu- 
ally increased  by  a species  of  management,  which, 
had  I remained,  would  probably  have  swelled  it  to  a 
large  congregation.  In  conversing  with  the  nume- 
rous applicants  for  medicine,  I told  such  as  I thought 
could  well  attend,  of  our  Sabbath  service,  and  ap- 
pointed that  day  and  hour  for  them  to  come  for  a 
fresh  supply  of  medicine.  Many  who  commenced 
their  attendance  through  these  means,  became  too 
much  interested  in  their  new  pursuit  to  discontinue. 
Beside  this,  about  half  a dozen  have  enjoyed  the 
benefit  of  daily  worship  and  catechetical  instruction^ 


SINGAPORE. 


291 


The  effect  has  been,  that  the  majority  have  had  their 
ideas  on  the  doctrines  of  Christianity  greatly  enlarged, 
and  a few  have  manifested  such  an  effect  of  the  truth 
upon  their  hearts,  as  I sincerely  hope  may  prove  to 
them  the  dawn  of  an  eternal  day.  These  have  re- 
jected their  idols,  and  established  the  daily  worship  of 
the  true  God. 

I have  ventured  to  baptize  none,  and  conse- 
quently denominate  none  of  them  converts.  The 
most  hopeful  have  lived  too  far  to  bring  them  under 
such  a course  of  instruction  as  seems  important, 
where  the  mind  is  just  emerging  from  gross  darkness, 
and  where  the  light  itself  shines  so  dimly.  I expected 
soon  to  leave  the  place,  and  feared  that  a change  of 
circumstances  might  produce  a change  in  their  im- 
pressions and  conduct ; and  what  was  more  control- 
ling to  my  own  judgment,  I knew  that  if  they  were 
the  children  of  God,  they  would  remain  such — if  not, 
tlie  administration  of  this  rite  might  prove  a source 
of  delusion  to  their  own  minds,  and  of  scandal  to 
those  around  them.  The  one  who  was  baptized  by 
my  predecessor,  Gutzlaff,  appears  to  know  the  truth 
in  the  love  of  it.  He  has  renounced  all  the  absurd  no- 
tions and  customs  recognized  in  their  religious  creeds, 
and  blended  with  the  renown  of  their  ancient  mo- 
ralists— an  evidence  of  mental  renovation,  which  can 
be  estimated  only  by  those  who  know  how  the  Chi- 
nese plume  themselves  upon  the  parade  of  this 


292 


SINGAPORE. 


knowledge,  and  with  what  difficulty  they  are  made 
to  abandon  it  as  absurd. 

The  Siamese  were  much  more  reserved  than  be- 
fore, probably  at  the  suggestion  or  command  of  those 
who  begin  to  open  their  eyes  upon  the  consequences  of 
intercourse  with  us,  and  tremble  for  the  doom  of  their 
gods  and  temples.  - A fabric  of  idolatry,  so  exten- 
sive and  consolidated  as  the  prevailuig  religion  of 
Siam,  based  upon  the  interests  of  a vast  body,  quite  a 
nation  of  priests,  supported  by  the  superstition,  the 
pride,  and,  of  course,  the  power  of  the  kings,  the 
princes  and  the  whole  community,  cannot  be  expected 
even  to  totter  upon  the  application  of  so  slight  a force 
as  we  have  brought  to  bear  against  it.  This  remark  is 
made  to  guard  against  the  impression  of  many,  that 
the  ruling  powers  of  Siam,  and  the  community  at 
large,  are  rather  patrons  than  opposers  of  Christianity. 
However  favorably  the  few  who  contemplated  the 
subject  may  have  received  it  when  it  was  novel,  and 
a matter  of  curious  inquiry,  yet  that  was  not  the  time 
of  trial. 

The  power  of  the  truth,  in  pulling  down  strong 
holds  without,  their  venerated  temples  and  idols, 
and  the  still  stronger  holds  within,  even  all  their  sa- 
cred associations,  and  deep-rooted  habits,  had  not 
been  experienced  nor  understood.  Neither  do  I be- 
lieve it  yet  known,  except  to  a very  limited  extent, 
although  there  appears  to  have  been  suspicions  in  the 


SINGAPORE. 


293 


minds  of  a few  of  the  object  and  probable  tendency  of 
our  labors  in  the  kingdom. 

The  medical  department  commenced  with  the 
mission  is  well  adapted  to  the  place,  and  if  filled  with 
qualified  men  might  lead  to  the  most  desirable  conse- 
quences. It  is  calculated  to  give  influence  to  the 
person  if  successful  in  his  practice.  It  attracts  many 
from  different  and  distant  parts,  to  whom  we  could 
otherwise  have  no  possible  access.  It  affords  an  oppor- 
tunity of  instructing  those  who  come,  and  lays  them 
under  such  obligations  as  can  be  employed  in  secur- 
ing both  their  attention  to  your  remarks,  and  their 
attendance  upon  the  established  ordinances  of  reli- 
gion. But  this  charity  is  dictated  by  a regard  to  the 
welfare  of  this  life,  as  well  as  of  the  life  to  come. 
The  most  common  complaints  are  those  which  yield 
readily  to  our  applications,  but  whose  permanent 
cure  baffles  the  skill  of  the  natives,  and  resists  the 
power  of  all  their  medicines. 

The  following  are  a few  extracts  from  the  journal 
kept  at  the  time. 

2lst. — A busy  day.  Great  numbers  for  books. 
More  than  I remember  ever  to  have  seen  before. 
They  were  principally  Hainam  men,  from  a vessel 
which  they  are  building  in  our  neighborhood.  This 
afternoon  commenced  visiting  the  China  junks  to 
supply  them  with  the  Scriptures,  and  other  religious 
books.  Having  a letter  to  the  captain  of  the  port, 
25* 


294 


SINGAPORE. 


who  acts  as  interpreter  between  foreigners  and  the 
Prah  Klang,  I called  at  his  house,  and  was  informed 
that  the  king  had  commanded  his  officers  to  prohibit 
me  from  distributing  the  books,  which  he  had  heard 
I brought  with  me.  “ If  we  wanted  to  disseminate 
our  religion,”  liis  majesty  remarked,  “ we  must  go  to 
some  other  country.”  A number  of  considerations 
prevented  a change  in  my  plans,  and  looking  for  wis- 
dom to  Him  in  whose  hand  are  the  hearts  of  kings, 
I went  from  the  interpreter’s  house  to  the  great  busi- 
ness on  which  I came  forth.  In  four  of  the  five 
junks  visited,  the  books  were  well  received.  Occa- 
sionally you  meet  with  those  who  are  full  of  all 
suspicion,  and  with  whom  but  little  can  be  done. 

22d. — Arose  early,  and  went  on  board  of  four 
junks.  In  the  first  met  with  a man  who  appeared 
not  only  friendly,  but  acquainted,  at  least  to  some  ex- 
tent, with  the  true  God  and  his  redeeming  Son.  Af- 
ter a little  conversation,  he  said  that  he  was  a Kelese- 
tan,  [Christian,  according  to  his  pronunciation,]  be- 
lonsfinor  to  the  island  of  Hainam — that  there  were 
three  or  four  Padres,  and  about  three  thousand  na- 
tive Christians  [Catholics]  on  the  island.  It  confirms 
the  account  that  I had  previously  received  respecting 
the  Catholics  having  retained  a considerable  foothold 
tliere,  when  expelled  from  China.  I gave  him  the 
Scriptures,  and  a number  of  other  books,  some  of 
which  he  promised  to  carry  to  his  friends  of  the  same 


SINGAPORE. 


295 


profession  at  home.  From  his  unreserved  manner,  he 
could  scarcely  have  suspected  that  there  was  any  dif- 
ference between  me  and  his-  own  priests,  although  he 
said,  in  reply  to  a question  on  the  subject,  that  they  did 
not  distribute  the  Scriptures  in  the  Chinese  language. 

Have  been  again  somewhat  troubled  with  a con- 
firmation of  yesterday’s  report.  Mr.  Silveira  having 
business  with  the  acting  Prah  Klang,  was  informed 
that  the  king  had  really  said  the  books  must  not  be 
distributed  in  his  kingdom.  Mr  S.  thinks,  and  with 
much  reason,  that  the  priests  are  taking  the  alarm, 
and  employing  their  influence  with  the  king  to  pre- 
vent their  downfall.  I think  I never  enjoyed  the 
second  psalm  so  much  as  to-day.* 

June  12th. — Since  the  last  date,  have  been  en>- 
ployed,  early  and  late,  in  visiting  about  fifty  junks. 
With  a very  few  exceptions,  the  books  have  been 
thankfully  received,  and  the  instructions  and  exhor- 
tations, though  often  lame  and  limited,  have  been 
heard  with  attention,  I hope  with  profit.  Some 
days  the  engagement  has  been  delightful.  Every 
where  a most  hearty  welcome  was  given,  and  at  times 
the  noisy,  though  respectful  salutation  of  the  gong 
,has  been  added.  Often  has  it  been  cheering  to  wit- 
ness the  readiness  with  which  the  most  important  doc- 

• The  king’s  officers  admitted  that  it  did  not  interfere  with  his 
majesty’s  command  to  supply  the  Chinese  junks  with  books, 
though  I neither  promised  nor  intended  to  confine  myself  to  them. 


296 


SINGAPORE. 


trines  of  Christianity  were  comprehended,  and  ani- 
mating has  been  the  assurance  that  “ our  labor  is  not 
in  vain  in  the  Lord.”  Oh,  how  easy  the  conversion 
of  a fallen  world  to  the  power  of  Omnipotence. 
This  is  our  dependence — here  we  rest ; and  our  con- 
stant and  only  aim  should  be  to  have  Jehovah  make 
bare  his  arm  in  this  glorious  work. 

June  25th. — ^Attention  lately  confined  to  in-door 
labors.  Among  the  numerous  patients  were  two  most 
pitiable  objects.  One  of  them  was  speechless,  and 
unable  to  walk  from  paralysis ; but  so  sensitively 
alive  to  his  miserable  condition,  that  he  wept  in  an- 
guish at  the  probability  of  never  being  restored. 
Even  if  relief  was  within  the  efficacy  of  medicffie  and 
the  skill  of  the  practitioner,  they  have  not  sufficient  pa- 
tience to  be  healed.  Often  have  they  come  with  inve- 
terate diseases,  and  though  they  have  been  forewarn- 
ed of  the  consequences  of  not  repeating  their  calls, 
yet  from  not  being  healed  immediately,  they  have  lost 
their  faith  in  the  remedy  and  never  applied  again. 

A day  or  two  since,  the  most  deformed  being  ap- 
peared at  the  door,  I ever  beheld.  I knew  from  his 
body  to  what  species  of  the  animal  creation  he  be- 
longed; but  when  he  lifted  the  veil  which  concealed, 
his  face,  I was  brought  to  a stand,  and  had  it  not  been 
for  previous  evidence,  would  not  have  known  what 
to  determine.  From  the  upper  part  of  the  nose  to 
the  under  jaw,  the  face  was  consumed,  and  a large 


SINGAPORE. 


297 


cavity  yawned  in  its  stead.  The  eyes,  no  doubt  from 
the  consumption  in  their  vicinity,  appeared  to  be 
drawn  out  of  their  proper  position,  and  in  themselves 
were  loathsome  objects,  destitute  of  sight,  and  other- 
wise diseased.  The  tongue,  at  least  at  the  end,  had 
become  attached  to  the  under  part  of  the  mouth. 
Yet  it  was  surprising  to  find,  that  he  could  employ 
the  back  part  of  it,  which  appeared  to  be  loose,  so  as 
to  utter  intelligible  sounds.  His  reason  was  perfect — 
his  age  but  thirty-five.  iJe  appeared  to  comprehend 
something  of  those  truths,  which,  if  impressed  with 
divine  power  upon  his  heart,  shall  yet  prevent  him 
from  “ awakening”  from  this  dream  of  life,  “ to  shame 
and  everlasting  contempt.” 

The  most  trying  circumstance  of  the  past  week,  and 
one  which  has  called  forth  many  a sigh,  is  the  conduct 
of  the  boy,  who  had  been  with  me  for  nearly  a year, 
and  who  I hoped  had  passed  from  death  unto  life.  He 
had  been  addicted  to  intemperance  before  he  entered 
our  service,  but  appeared  for  a long  time  perfectly 
reformed.  While  with  me  at  Singapore,  he  was  as- 
sociated in  the  family  in  which  I lived  with  a profli- 
gate fellow  servant,  whom  1 have  heard  him  warn 
against  the  evil  consequences  of  dissipation,  but  wlro 
seduced  him  into,  the  very  crimes  he  had  himself  so 
solemnly  condemned.  Before  I suspected  the  least 
misdemeanor,  his  conduct  had  become  so  offensive  to 
the  public,  that  I was  compelled  to  dismiss  him  imme- 
diately from  my  service.  I know  of  nothing  more 


29S 


SINGAPORE. 


painful  to  a missionary’s  heart  than  an  event  of  this 
kind.  Those  who  have  followed  to  the  grave  a che- 
rished child — one  who  was  their  solace  in  loneliness, 
and  their  hope  in  coming  years,  may  fonn  some  idea 
of  this  trial.  But  no  ! what  is  a bodily  pang,  a tem- 
porary separation,  to  spiritual,  eternal  wretchedness. 
To  see  the  “ rulers  of  darkness”  recapture  those  who 
we  hoped  had  been  wrested  from  their  dominion,  and 
to  find  the  gloom  of  the  second  death  closing  upon 
those  who  we  fondly  believed  had  emerged  into  light, 
produce,  for  the  moment,  something  of  the  agony 
which  we  associate  with  the  destiny  of  the  lost. 

July  7th. — Several  circumstances  have  rendered  , 
tlie  week  one  of  more  than  ordinary  interest.  Among 
these,  was  a visit  from  two  men  for  books,  who  had 
obtained  some  notion  of  the  true  God,  and  the  ques- 
tions of  one  of  whom  manifested  a strong  conviction 
of  the  credibility  of  the  Christian  religion.  The  poor 
man,  when  inquiring  about  the  manner  of  divine 
worship,  was  confounded  at  every  step.  To  worship  I 
vuthout  images,  pictures,  inscriptions  of  any  kind,  I 
udthout  incense  sticks,  offerings  of  eatables,  or  any  | 
of  those  rites  with  which  every  thing  sacred  is  asso-  i 
ciated  in  his  mind,  was  more  than  he  could  readily  i 
digest.  Some  of  them  exhibit,  when  you  talk  to  them,  , 
the  wonder  of  children  in  hearing  a marvellous  tale.  | 
Tlie  great  Deceiver  has  persuaded  them  that  the  right  ; 
exercise  of  the  heart  is  a secondary,  and  quite  an  un- 
important matter  in  sacred  duties. 


SINGAPORE. 


299 


Yesterday  the  man  whom  Gutzlatf  baptized  called 
for  the*  first  time.  He  had  been  absent  to  Cochin- 
China  and  China,  and  had  discovered  Ifom  more  than 
mere  observation,  that  notwithstanding  the  similarity 
of  name,  our  doctrines  and  those  of  the  Catholics 
were  very  different.  He  said  they  would  not  acknow- 
ledge him  in  Amooy,  although  he  confessed  himself  a 
disciple  of  Jesus,  and  showed  his  credentials,  no  doubt 
with  a very  different  expectation.  That  idol  which 
they  adored,  and  the  strange,  unintelligible  mode 
of  their  worship,  were  quite  as  offensive  to  him,  as 
his  knowledge  of  the  Saviour,  and  ignorance  of  their 
abominations,  were  to  them. 

Have  been  visited  three  or  four  times,  by  two 
of  the  interesting  Chinese,  spoken  of  in  a previous 
part  of  this  journal.  They  came  expressly  for  divine 
worship,  and  would  repeat  their  visits  more  frequent- 
ly, were  it  not  for  the  distance  of  their  residence  from 
us.  This  morning  they  brought  an  acquaintance 
with  them,  who  had  some  knowledge  of  the  books, 
and  who  cheerfully  engaged  with  us  in  our  usual  ser- 
vice. Our  friends  had  been  rather  fast  in  their  reck- 
oning, having  mistaken  this  day  (Saturday)  for  the 
Sabbath.  The  elder,  with  all  his  other  good  quali- 
ties, is  the  personification  of  Chinese  politeness — the 
other  is  too  modest  and  retiring  to  exhibit  what  his 
kind  heart  dictates. 

17th. — Passing  down  the  river  last  evening,  we 


300 


SINGAPORE. 


saw  a collection  of  persons  assembled  in  two  or  three 
places,  attending  to  the  discourses  of  the  priests.  At 
one  of  the  houses  where  we  stopped  a few  moments, 
an  old  spectacled  Talapoin  was  seated  on  a platform, 
preaching  to  an  assembly,  principally  of  women, 
who  listened  in  the  reverential  posture  of  Siam — sit- 
ting with  their  feet  concealed,  and  their  hands  raised 
to  the  level  of  their  faces.  The  dull  monotony  of  the 
old  man’s  chant  is  usually  relieved  by  a timely  inter- 
lude of  music,  though  we  did  not  stop  to  witness  this 
part  of  the  performance. 

• The  present  month  is  the  commencement  of  the 
Prassah — the  longest  sacred  season  in  the  year,  con- 
tinuing for  three  successive  months.  It  is  observed 
in  commemoration  of  the  time  that  Somnahkodom* 
the  last  incarnation  of  Buddh,  disappeared  from  this 
world.  They  say  that  he  left  three  impressions  of  his 
feet  on  earth — one  in  Siam,  another  in  Burmah,  and 
a third  in  Ceylon.  Pilgrimages  are  frequently  made 
to  the  vestige  visible  in  the  hill-country  of  Siam,  and 
the  act  is  considered  as  meritorious  by  these  idolaters 
as  a visit  to  the  holy  city  of  the  Jews,  the  IMahorae- 
dans,  or  the  Catholics,  by  their  respective  devotees. 

* According  to  tradition,  the  brother  of  Somnahkodom,  a great 
malefactor,  was  crucified  for  his  crimes.  I have  been  asked  whe- 
ther he  and  Jesus  were  not  the  same.  The  devil  would  no  doubt 
have  it  believed,  according  to  similar  attempts,  (e.  g.  the  Philippian 
damsel)  that  Christ  and  this  infamous  character  were  one. 


SIAM. 


301 


During  this  protracted  season,  the  priests  are  kept 
most  busily  engaged,  pvery  day  there  is  service  at 
the  palace,  and  the  mansions  of  many  of  the  principal 
men  in  tfie  kingdom,  and  frequently  at  the  houses 
of  the  common  people.  This  service  is  maintained 
at  the  palace  throughout  the  year.  The  night  which 
closes  the  PrassaJt  is  a season  of  many  ceremonies 
and  much  noise.  Guns  are  fired  from  the  forts  sur- 
rounding the  city,  at  short  intervals,  until  morning, 
after  which,,  for  a long  time,  lamps  are  suspended 
upon  high  poles,  by  all  who  can  afibrd  the  expense. 
The  object  of  the  noise  is  to  frighten  the  evil  spirits, 
from  these  precincts — the  lights  are  to  prevent  the 
return  of  these  dreaded  genii. 

Other  means  are  employed  by  the  priests  for  the 
same  purpose.  They  often  surround  a place,  from 
which  they  wish  to  debar  their  invisible  enemies  with 
i a thread,  which  by  their  incantatory  powers  they 
can  render  an  impassable  barrier.  The  whole  wall- 
ed city  is  thus  guarded.  Even  human  bodies  are  be- 
lieved to  be  secured  fi’om  demoniacal  possessions  by 
the  same  means.  It  is  strange  but  true,  that  similar 
methods  are  employed  by  the  priests  in  taking  alliga- 
i tors  when  they  appear  in  the  river,  and  according  to 
the  uniform  testimony  of  spectators,  they  prove  gene- 
j rally  successful.  In  statements  of  this  kind,  and 
many  others  equally  incredible,  I have  been  at  a Igss 
to  know  what  to  determine.  If  the  priests  are  not  as- 
! ' 26 


302 


SIAM. 


sisted  by  the  spirits  whom  they  profess  to  control,  they 
must  possess  all  their  power,  or  they  never  could  im- 
pose upon  such  a variety  of  witnesses. 

Before  we  reached  home,  my  ears  were  shocked 
by  an  oath  in  EnglisTi  from  one  of  the  heathen  boys, 
who  was  assisting  to  propel  the  boat.  It  was  the 
only  phrase  attempted  in  the  language,  and  in  all 
probability  the  only  one  he  knew.  It  reminded  me  of 
a similar  expression  which  I had  heard  from  one  of 
another  nation,  residing  in  Siam,  and  who  manifest- 
ed no  other  acquaintance  with  the  English  language 
than  this  offensive  sentence.  The  language  of  curs-  ^ 
ing,  and  the  habit  of  brandy  drinking  are  considered 
in  many  heathen  nations  as  characteristics  of  Chris- 
tians.* 

31st. — Yesterday  afternoon  the  prince  Chow  Fah\ 
sent  for  me  to  dine  at  his  house.  The  message  was  com- 
mitted in  such  a manner,  or  to  such  a messenger,  as 
would  admit  of  no  refusal,  although  it  was  raining  at 
the  time  and  likely  to  continue.  We  are  often  obliged 
to  gratify  them  contrary  to  our  inclinations,  that  we 
may  secure  their  favor  and  be  better  enabled  to  benefit 
them  and  their  nation.  The  entertainment  was  in 
European  style,  and  consisted  of  a variety  of  dishes. 

" Bruce  in  the  interior  of  Abyssinia  met  a character  wlio  had 
picked  up  a few  words  of  English,  and  those  the  vilest  in  the  lan- 
guage. 


t “ Lord  of  heaven.” 


SIAM. 


303 


He  did  not  partake  with  us,  as  it  is  the  custom  of  the 
princes  to  eat  alone — oiering  as  an  apology,  that  he 
had  dined. 

After  dinner  he  amused  us  with  music  upon  some 
of  their  native  instruments,  being  himself  an  amateur, 
and  aided  by  the  vocal  strains  of  one  of  his  attend- 
ants. Between  the  musical  powers  of  the  Chinese 
and  Siamese  as  has  been  mentioned,  there  is  a striking 
contrast,-  altogether  in  favor  of  the  talent  and  taste 
of  the  latter.  Their  instruments  are  much  more 
euphonic,  and  their  voices  softer  and  more  natural. 
They  employ  in  their  usual  concerts  two  instruments 
of  percussion,  probably  borrowed  from  the  Javanese. 
These  are  both  on  the  principle  of  the  harmonica,  the 
one  being  made  of  transverse  pieces  of  bamboo,  sus- 
pended by  strings  upon  a small  shallop  frame- work ; 
tlie  other  consisting  of  a number  of  hollow  copper 
vessels  of  different  sizes,  hung  upon  a circular  frame- 
Their  sweetest  wind-instruments  are  borrowed  from 
the  Laos.  They  are  made  of  a number  of  reeds  of 
unequal  lengths  put  together,  and  perforated  so  as  to 
give  the  necessary  distinction  of  notes.  On  this  in- 
strument the  prince  performs  with  much  taste.  In 
fact,  the  more  we  see  of  this  young  man,  the  more  we 
are  struck  with  the  variety  of  his  talents.  O that  the 
Saviour  would  verify  the  prediction  and  promise  in 
him,  '■  Kings  shall  see  and  arise,  princes  also  shall 
worship.” 


304 


SIAM. 


September  2d. — Our  little  worshipping  assembly 
has  just  left  the  house.  Abcut  twenty  were  present. 
It  is  so  affecting  to  have  a company  of  poor  pagans 
assemble  ou  the  Lord’s  da}’’,  to  hear  the  doctrines  of 
the  Gospel,  and  bow  the  knee  to  their  great  Author, 
that  I can  scarcely  endure  the  thought  of  lea\dng 
them,  and  am  at  times  perplexed  to  know  whether 
even  measures  for  self-preservation  ought  not  to  yield 
to  the  claims  of  a whole  kingdom.  It  is  true,  I am 
apt  to  forget  that  if  the  first  he  necessary,  the  other 
must  in  any  case  be  abandoned.  The  harvest  truly 
is  great,  but  the  laborers  are  few. 

Two  events  have  recently  occurred,  which  tend  to 
promote  the  objects  of  the  mission.  They  have  been 
constructing  a brick  foot-path  between  our  premises 
and  the  Chinese  settlement.  The  way  before  was 
almost  impassable  even  to  the  bare-footed  peripatetics. 
It  is  now  made  of  materials,  and  in  a manner  which 
will  probably  surmount  the  height  of  the  annual  flood, 
and  resist  the  action  of  its  waters.  Though  a mise- 
rable place  to  walk  for  exercise,  on  account  of  the 
narrowness  of  the  way,  the  crowd  of  passengers,  and, 
what  is  worse  than  all,  the  number  and  annoyance  of 
the  dogs,  yet  it  is  the  only  alternative,  during  the  great- 
er part  of  the  year,  to  remaining  within  your  ovm  little 
inclosure,  and  it  is  essential  to  the  prosecution  of  those 
external  duties  which  ought  not  to  be  neglected  in 
tliis  mission.  Its  chief  advantage,  however,  is  the 


< 


* 


SIAM. 


305 


facility  with  which  visitors,  patients  and  worshippers 
can  come  to  the  house.  ‘ 

The  other  event  is  an  agreement  entered  into, 
with  Chow  Fah,  which  affords  to  me  advantages  for 
the  acquisition  of  their  language,  and  opens  a door 
for  instructing  him.  Every  second  day  he  sends  for 
me  to  come  and  teach  him  the  English,  and  the  al- 
ternate day  he  sends  a teacher  to  instruct  me  in  Sia- 
mese. Want  of  health  prevents  me  from  availing 
myself  of  the  benefits  of  the  arrangement,  except  in 
a limited  measure,  and  I am  sorry  to  find,  that  want 
of  inclination  or  fear  prevents  him  from  the  full  advan- 
tages of  that  information  which  I am  principally  anx- 
ious to  impart.  He  bids  fair  for  the  throne,  and  is 
perhaps  afraid  of  any  thing  which  might  render  his 
success  doubtful.  He  fiears  considerable  however  in 
the  way  of  circumlocution.  In  fact,  I have  no  other 
hesitation  to  the  plainest,  most  pointed  conversation, 
than  the  apprehension  of  defeating  my  own  object ; 
and  when  there  are  sufficient  grounds  for  dismissing 
this  apprehension,  the  effort,  in  the  Lord’s  strength, 
shall  be  made.  Still  I very  much  fear,  that  an  im- 
perfect knowledge  of  his  language  renders  all  my 
instructions  comparatively  unavailing. 

13th. — To-day  Mr.  Hunter  sent  for  us,  to  witness 
a sight  which  has  attracted  much  attention  in  Siam, 
and  would  be  considered  equally  strange  in  more 

26* 


306 


SIAM. 


enlightened  countries.  It  was  a young  child  sporting 
in  the  water  as  in  its  native  element,  with  all  the 
buoyancy  and  playfulness  of  a fish.  Its  evolutions 
are  astonishing,  sometimes  rolling  over  with  a rapid 
motion,  and  apparently  no  exertion,  at  others  turning 
round  like  a hoop,  by  bending  its  face  under,  as  it 
lies  on  its  back,  and  throwing  its  feet  over  its  head. 
It  floats  like  a cork,  with  no  apparent  motion  of  any 
of  the  muscles — occasionally  allows  itself  to  sink  until 
only  the  half  of  its  head  is  seen — dives — holds  its 
face  under  water  enough  to  alarm  those  who  are  ig- 
norant of  its  powers,  and  yet  appears  to  breathe  as 
easily  as  though  it  had  suffered  no  suspension  of  respi- 
ration. From  its  actions  and  countenance,  it  is  evi- 
dently delighted  with  the  exercise,  evinces  no  fatigue 
nor  the  least  apprehension,  -and  often  cries  when 
taken  up.  It  is  a singular  object,  both  out  and  in  the 
water.  It  is  three  years  old — very  small— can  neither 
speak  nor  walk — is  veiy  defective  in  sight — will  eat 
nothing  but  its  earliest  provision — in  fact,  appears 
quite  idiotic,  and  has  exhibited  the  same  fondness  for 
the  water,  and  peculiar  feats  in  it,  from  its  first  year 
of  age — the  first  time  that  it  was  tried. 

24th. — A governor  of  one  of  the  Malayan  districts 
was  charged  with  oppressing  the  people,  for  his  own 
aggrandizement.  Not  satisfied  with  punishing  the 
guilty,  they  have  seized  his  wife,  children,  and  rela- 


SIAM. 


307 


tives,  and  doomed  them  all  “to  slavery  and  chains” 
for  life.  This  case  of  unrighteous  dealing  is  by  no 
means  singular.  The  Siamese  have  lately  been  en- 
gaged in  a war  with  some  of  the  Malay  tribes  in  the 
peninsula,  and,  from  thdir  superiority  in  numbers  and 
equipments,  have  conquered  their  enemies,  and  plun- 
dered their  country.  It  is  said  that  as  many  as  five 
thousand  prisoners — families,  as  well  as  fathers — 
have  been  sent  as  slaves  to  Siam.  I visited  a com- 
pany of  them  to-day,  and  was  shocked  at  their  condi- 
tion. Aged  and  young — honorable  and  base  were 
huddled  together  like  swine — filthy,  diseased, — some 
extremely  ill,  destitute  of  nourishment,  medicines  or 
attention.  They  were  serving  out  a coarse  kind  of 
rice  to  them  by  a careful  and  parsimonious  measure- 
ment, without  allowing  them  any  condiment  to  give 
it  a relish,  or  even  fuel  to  cook  it. 

25th. — My  visits  to  the  prince  have  been  suspend- 
ed some  time  on  account  of  the  death  of  an  aunt,  who 
was  living  with  him.  On  these  occasions  all  the  ser- 
vants and  subjects  are  obliged  to  have  their  heads 
shaved.  To-day  he  took  me  to  see  the  style  in  which 
the  body  is  preserved,  and  witness  some  of  the  cere- 
, monies,  preparatory  to  its  being  burned.  It  is  par- 
tially embalmed,  in  a sitting  posture,  with  the  feet 
drawn  up,  and  the  elbows  between  the  knees.  The 
shrine  or  case  in  which  it  is  preserved  is  constructed 
like  a pyramid,  and  decked  with  canopies  and  other  or- 


308 


SIAM. 


naments.  The  priests  were  present,  and  had  been  re- 
peating their  praj’^ers  in  a funereal  tone  of  voice.  At 
six  in  the  evening  twentj’-four  drums  were  beat,  and 
trumpets  blown — to  frighten  away  the  evil  spirits,  as  I 
conjectured,  by  way  of  interrogation — but  from  mere 
custom,  as  my  quick-sighted  informant  replied.  He 
admitted,  however,  that  they  did  believe  they  could 
drive  away  evil  spirits,  though  guns  and  not  drums 
were  the  proper  instruments. 

Tljeir  superstition  in  regard  to  these  demons  is 
extreme.  He  declares  tliey  are  frequently  seen,  and 
heard  and  felt  in  inflicting  deadly  diseases  upon  per- 
sons. They  have  even  the  power,  as  he  and  the 
whole  nation  suppose,  of  introducing  into  the  body 
substances  too  large,  and  hard  to  be  digested.  “ You 
hear  a noise  generally  upon  the  wall  where  you  are 
sleeping.  If  you  start  and  inquire  the  cause,  the  ob- 
ject is  immediately  introduced  through  the  mouth ; 
if  you  lie  still  and  maintain  silence,  they  cannot  ad- 
minister the  fatal  dose.”  This  art  is  also  ascribed  to 
men,  who,  by  their  magic,  can  reduce  pieces  of  leather 
and  other  substances  to  an  almost  imperceptible  size, 
and  when  they  are  combined  with  food  or  medicine 
and  swallowed,  can  make  them  return  to  their  origi- 
nal form.  This  they  declare  has  been  satisfactorily 
determined  by  post  mortem  examination.  I have 
heard  the  same  from  the  Chinese,  who  stand  in  much 
dread  of  many  of  the  Siamese,  believing  that  they  can  | 


SIAM. 


309 


engage  malicious  spirits  on  their  errands  of  death,  and 
that  it  is  often  done  to  avenge  a private  animosity,  or 
gain  other  objects.  Very  recently  the  brother  of  the 
Prah  Klang,  and  one  who  frequently  takes  his  place  in 
commercial  transactions  with  foreigners,"  died.  We 
all  suspected,  from  the  slightness  of  the  indisposition, 
and  the  suddenness  of  the  death,  that  it  must  have 
been  occasioned  by  ignorance  or  design  in  the  native 
doctors.  When  the  body  was  burnt,  those  who  were 
present  testified,  that  a large  piece  of  flesh  was  found 
unconsumed  in  the  fire,  which  they  knew  must  have 
produced  his  decease.  This  flesh  was  taken,  dis- 
tributed among  the  relatives,  and  eaten,  under  the 
impression  that  none  who  have  employed  this  pre- 
ventive, can  ever  be  destroyed  by  the  same  means. 
Among  other  witnesses,  a little  artless  lad,  son  of  the 
Prah  Klang,  told  my  friend  Hunter  of  this  fact,  and 
exhibited  strong  feelings  of  disgust  when  he  declared 
that  they  had  made  him  eat  part  of  the  flesh.  The 
priests,  it  is  said,  by  much  praying  have  the  control 
of  these  spirits,  or  at  least  are  beybnd  their  control, 
which  is  the  probable  clue  to  the  origin  and  object 
of  the  superstition. 

October  2d. — Yesterday  and  to-day,  have  been 
visiting  the  Malay  captives.  The  place  was  the  same 
as  before,  but  the  company  was  different,  and  their 
numbers  increased.  Their  misery  is  sickening  to 


310 


SIAM. 


body  and  heart.  Some  of  them  had  died ; others  were 
apparently  in  the  last  stage  of  existence.  Multitudes 
were  ill,  none  of  whom  had  comforts  adapted  to  their 
wants,  and  many  of  them,  especially  the  children,  ex- 
hibited such  painful  expressions  of  countenances  as 
quite  made  the  heart  to  bleed.  To  keep  some  of  them 
from  lying  on  the  cold  ground,  we  were  obliged  to 
buy  mats  and  give  them.  1 was  happy  to  learn  that 
their  measure  of  rice,  though  of  the  most  interior  qua- 
lity, had  been  enlarged,  and  a little  dried  fish  added 
to  their  allowance  ; but  oh,  what  fare  for  the  emaciated 
bodies  and  squeamish  appetites  of  the  diseased ! 

To-day  I took  such  medicines  as  I thought  might 
be  serviceable,  but  was  disappointed  in  finding  that 
the  greater  part  of  yesterday’s  company  had  been  re- 
moved. Among  the  objects  of  pity  and  misery  was 
a mother,  whose  child  had  been  torn  from  her,  and 
was  about  to  be  sent  to  a distant  part  of  the  kingdom. 
She  was  almost  frantic, — at  times  on  her  knees  before 
those  who  had  the  management  of  the  business,  beg- 
ging them  to  restore  her  child — and  again  running  to 
the  boat  which  they  were  pushing  from  the  shore,  and 
crying  out  after  the  object  of  her  affections,  in  the 
most  impassioned  manner.  No  notice  was  taken  of 
her,  the  boat  moved  oft',  and  she  was  left  to  the  pain- 
fulness of  probably  an  eternal  separation.  We  asked 
those  to  whom  the  poor  woman  appealed  for  pity,  why 


SIAM. 


311 


Uiey  did  not  attend  to  her.  They  replied,  that  they  had 
received  orders,  and  were  afraid  to  disobey  them. 

October  7th. — To-day  our  number  exceeded  twen- 
ty by  one  or  two.  In  the  evening  the  priest  called 
and  returned  three  volumes  of  the  word  of  God, 
which  he  had  taken  to  copy.  Not  knowing  whether  I 
should  ever  have  another  opportunity  for  private  con- 
versation with  him,  and  feeling  a strong  interest  in 
his  eternal  welfare,  I spoke  as  freely  as  I could  on  the 
importance  of  having  the  heart  interested  in  the  truths 
which  he  had  taken  some  pains  to  learn.  I mention- 
ed that  his  was  the  simple  knowledge  of  the  head, 
which  could  be  of  no  avail  toward  his  salvation,  as 
long  as  the  affections  were  unmoved,  and  his  idolatry 
retained.  By  a word  or  two,  and  a very  significant 
gesture,  he  made  me  to  understand  that  the  fear  of 
decapitation  was  the  great  preventive  to  a change  of 
his  faith.  I told  him  what  the  Saviour  commanded 
his  disciples,  about  not  fearing  those  who  could  kill 
only  the  body,  and  that  thousands  for  the  love  of  Jesus 
and  eternal  life  had  been  transported  on  fiery  cha- 
riots to  heaven. 

His  case  reminds  one  of  the  priests  in  the  Sa- 
viour’s day,  who,  it  is  said,  believed ; but  did  not  con- 
fess him  openly,  for  the  same  reason.  I think  there 
is  little  doubt,  but  that  if  a change  of  circumstances 
should  dissipate  these  fears,  he  would  be  among  the 
first  in  the  kingdom  to  embrace  Christianity.  Alas, 


812 


SIAM. 


that  such  a change  of  circumstances  should  be  at  all 
necessary ! 

October  14th. — Since  the  commencement  of  our 
Sabbath  service,  I have  never  seen  such  fixed  and 
thoughtful  attention  as  was  apparent  toward  the  close 
of  this  morning’s  exhortation.  The  Spirit  of  the  liv- 
mg  Saviour  was  doubtless  in  our  midst,  and  the  hearts 
of  many,  I sincerely  believe,  felt  His  sacred  presence. 
Again  the  sadness  of  separation  came  over  my  spirits, 
and  again  I commended  this  little  band  to  “ the  Shep- 
herd and  Bishop  of  souls.”  The  more  we  labor  for 
the  heathen,  the  more  we  see  the  necessity  of  laboring 
with  our  own  hearts.  It  is  difficult  to  say  which  is 
the  mqst  painful,  to  toil  with  no  encouragement,  or 
to  leave  unaccomplished  the  most  encouraging  la- 
bors. If  there  were  others  to  take  the  place  of  those 
who  are  compelled  to  retire ; or  if  the  flock  from 
whom  their  pastor  is  removed  have  attained  to 
strength;  the  trial  is  comparatively  light.  To  la- 
bor with  patience  and  perseverance,  expectation  and 
prayer,  is  not  sufficient  at  least  to  the  comfort  of 
the  uistrument,  he  must  learn  to  have  his  spirit 
so  attuned,  that  the  animating  strain  “I  can  do  all 
things  through  Christ,  which  strengtheneth  me,” 
will  allow  of  the  interlude,  ^ not  my  will,  but  tliine 
be  done.” 

During  the  past  week  have  supplied  the  Burman 
camp  with  tracts  brought  with  me,  in  their  own  Ian- 


SIAM. 


313 


puage.  The  books  were  well  received  by  priests  and 
people. 

24th. — Have  been  informed  upon  good  authority 
that  the  Catholics  in  China  are  reinforced  this  year, 
by  a bishop  and  four  missionaries  : and  in  Siam  by 
one  missionary.  The  viceroy  of  Saigon,  in  Cochin- 
China,  who  was  very  favorable  to  the  Catholic  religion, 
and  a man  of  vast  power  in  the  kingdom,  lately  died, 
which  has  produced  such  apprehensions  among  the 
priests  in  regard  to  their  safety,  that  they  have  begged 
the  bishop  of  Siam  to  offer  public  prayers  for  their 

m 

preservation.*  From  the  same  authority,  the  number 
of  Christians  in  Corea  is  about  ten  thousand.  They 
have  no  European  priests,  but  are  supplied  by  natives 
from  China.  A bishop  and  several  missionaries'  are 
about  to  be  appointed. 

The  most  prevalent  language  employed  by  the  na- 
tives and  foreign  residents  at  Siam,  are  the  Siamese 
and  Chinese.  The  spoken  language  of  the  Siamese 
is  simple  and  nervous,  the  written,  the  very  opposite. 
Like  the  Chinese,  there  is  a great  deal  of  tone  in  their 
ordinary  pronunciation,  but  unlike  many  dialects  of 
that  language,  the  sense  is  not  determined  by  accent. 
These  modulations  of  voice  are  heard  more  distinctly  in 
reading,  when  you  perceive  there  are  three  keys  a num- 
ber of  notes  apart,  through  which  they  pass  by  rules, 

* They  have  since  suffered  severe  persecution. 

27 


314 


3IAM. 


> 


0 


\vhi(m  I believe  custom  alone  regailates,  though  it  teach- 
es them  with  great  precision.  In  their  books,  they  are 
exceedingly  fond  of  epithets,  turgid  phrases,  and  a 
certain  correspondence  of  sound  in  words  and  mem- 
bers of  sentences.  The  object  of  language  is  often 
entirely  forgotten.  Instead  of  being  regarded  as  the 
vefiicle  of  thought,  they  appear  to  consider  it  as  superi- 
or to  all  sentiment,  often  ipultiplying  expressions  with- 
out the  least  additional  force  or  variation  to  the  ideas. 
The  majority  of  their  books  contains  little  else,  than 
this  pompous  display  of  verbiage.  A number  of 
works  have  been  written  in  the  language.  Some  of 
them  treat  of  anatomy,  medicine,  law,  and  other  sci- 
ences ; but  a large  proportion  are  novels  and  fables,  as 
full  of  absurdities,  and  puerilities,  as  the  former  are  • 
destitute  of  truth  and  utility.  There  is  scarcely  any 
difference  in  the  mode  of  speaking  the  language 
throughout  the  kingdom, — the  tones  vary  a little,  but 
so  little  that  all  understand  each  other  with  perfect 
facility.  The  Bali  or  Pali  is  the  sacred  tongue  of 
Buddh,  and  studied  by  the  priests.  Many  Pali  words 
are  introduced  in  their  ^vl•itings.  The  court  language 
is  prmcipally  Cambodjian.  The  first  legislator  was 
from  Cambodjia,  and  though  he  lived  nearly  twelve 
centuries  ago,  the  language  remains  unchanged. 
The  common  era  of  Siam  is  the  commencement  of 
his  political  career. 

The  language  of  Cambodjia  is  very  different  from 


SIAM. 


315 


the  Siamese.  The  Cambocljiatfs  employ  the  Pali 
character  in  their  moral  writings,  but  hav^another  for 
ordinary  subjects.  The  Laos  appears  more  a dialect 
of  the  Siamese  than  a distinct  tongue,  though  the 
characters  of  the  two  languages  are  somewhat 
different.  Between^  the  Burmese  and  Siamese  there 
is  scarcely  any  approximation. 

The  most  common  colloquial  of  the  Chinese  in 
Siam  is  the  Tay-chew  or  Teo-chgw.  It  resembles  the 
Fokien  more  than  any  other  dialect,  but  still  differs 
so  much  from  it,  both  in  phrases  and  accent,  that  with- 
out accommodation  on  one  or  both  sides,  there  can  be 
but  little  intercourse  between  the  natives  of  the  two 
places.  There  is  not  the  same  fulness  and  distinct- 
ness of  sound  in  the  Tay-chew  dialect  as  in  the  other. 
The  consequence  is,  it  is  more  difficult  to  acquire,  and 
especially  to  employ  intelligibly  to  the  natives.  This 
may  be  owing,  however,  to  the  great  want  of  unifor- 
mity among  themselves,  as  also  to  the  fact,  that  they 
are  poorer  and  less  cultivated  than  the  inhabitants  of 
Fokien,  and  consequently  if  you  do  not  happen  to 
strike  the  very  ferm  and  tone  which  they  employ, 
they  have  no  means  of  gathering  your  idea.  There 
is  nothing  in  a missionary’s  labor  which  tries  his  pa- 
tience and  power  of  application  so  much  as  these  dif- ' 
ficult  and  different  languages.  Ko  effort  of  genius 
can  overcome  the  obstacles  which  he  continually 
meets.  It  is  true  there  is  a talent  for  lansfuasres, 
which  gives  immense  advantages  to  those  who  pos- 


316 


SIAM. 


sess  it,  but  the  acquisition  of  the  Chinese  depends 
upon  a close  imitation  of  writings,  which  can  scarce- 
ly be  said  to  be  governed  by  any  principles,  and  in 
which  the  idiom  is  totally  opposite  to  any  thing  known 
or  employed  among  western  nations.  First,  you  must 
acquire  a knowledge  of  the  character,  and  then  you 
nfUst  pore  over  the  books  in  which  these  numerous 
characters  are  employed,  until  you  perceive  how  they 
are  combined  to  convey  different  ideas.  The  man 
who  has  the  most  extensive  acquaintance  with  their 
classical  and  historical  works,  who  can  servilely  imi- 
tate their  style,  and  liberally  quote  their  sentiments,  is 
the  literary  man  in  China,  and  of  course  the  one  best 
calculated  to  influence  and  control  the  mind  of  the 
empire.  It  is  the  untiring  exertion  required  in  mas-* 
terins:  these  difficulties,  connected  with  the  eflects  of  a 
climate  which  proves  unfavorable  to  close  mental  ap- 
plication, which  has  injured  the  health  of  the  majority 
who  have  devoted  themselves  to  this  mission.  This 
fact  however,  should  not  discourage  any  who  feel  it 
their  duty  to  consecrate  their  lives  to  the  salvation  of 
these  nations.  The  chief  difficulties  belong  rather  to 
the  literature  of  the  language,  than  to  a sufficient 
knowledge  of  it,  for  useful  purposes.  The  colloquial 
dialects,  though  they  all  require  attention,  may  yet  be 
obtained  without  injury  to  the  health,  and  without  that 
application  of  mind  which  is  necessary  for  literary  pur- 
poses. To  liv'^e  with  them  or  have  them  live  with  you — 
to  talk,  though  you  blunder — to  question,  though  you 


SIAM. 


317 


cannot  understand  the  answer — to  repeat  or  even  write 
down  what  you  hear,  and  inquire  about  what  you  are 
ignorant — to  dismiss  all  pride,  all  diffidence,  and  to  lay 
every  man  and  every  thing  under  contribution  to 
your  object,  is  the  best  way  to  study  languages,  and 
a way  which  confines  no  one  to  his  desk.  It  is 
important  never  to  be  ashamed  of  your  ignorance, 
nor  backward  to  ask  about  what  you  even  ought  to 
know.  And  no  plan  have  I found  so  profitable  as 
employing  the  pencil  in  catching  words  and  sentences 
out  of  the  lips  of  those  who  are  talking,  and  then,  if 
you  think  it  too  unreasonable  to  make  the  man  his  own 
interpreter,  to  defer  the  inquiry  for  a future  period.  I 
have  known  one  or  two  ladies  whose  health  was  deli- 
P cate,  and  yet  who  had  made  themselves  such  proficients 
' in  the  Chinese,  that  they  could  converse  on  all  subjects, 
and  read  and  explain  the  Christian  books  with  facility.* 
Still  no  other  language  in  the  East,  probably  no  other 
in  the  world,  presents  such  difficulties  to  its  complete 
acquisition  as  the  Chinese.  The  Siamese,  especially 
the  spoken  language,  is  by  no  means  appalling.  The 
Malayan,  employed  in  the  sti;&its  and  through  the 
islands,  is  simplicity  itself.  It  is  doubtful  whether  there 
is  another  language  in  the  world  which  can  be  soquick- 
I ly  understood,  and  employed  by  foreigners  of  all  na- 
tions. 

* Being  familiar  with  the  subjects,  these  books  are  more  easily 
comprehended  by  us  than  their  own. 

27* 


318 


SIAM, 


November  4th. — Expecting  to  leave  the  place  be- 
fore this  'day,  I had  made  arrangements  for  those  who 
were  disposed  to  continue  the  Sabbath  services,  to  meet 
in  future  in  the  same  place  and  at  the  same  hour. 
All  whom  I had  any  reason  to  expect  came,  and  these 
brought  others  with  them,  so  that  the  number  was  as 
great  as  usual.  Having  in  the  presence  of  all,  men- 
tioned the  person  by  whom  I desired  the  exercises  to 
be  principally  conducted,  I resigned  the  office  to  him, 
and  sat  as  a listener.  The  audience  were  very  silent 
and  attentive,  and  the  expounder  animated  and  happy 
in  his  views  and  illustrations.  It  was  very  evident  to 
me,  that,  exclusive  of  the  obligations  which  would 
probably  bind  a greater  number  to  me  than  to  the  sub- 
stitute, or  to  their  own  best  interests,  the  change  is  in  *• 
many  most  important  respects  desirable.  In  power  of 
language  he  has  greatly  the  advantage,  at  least  in  his 
own  dialect,  which  is  more  familiar  to  others,  and 
less  to  myself  than  the  Fokien.  As  it  regards  his 
knowledge,  it  is  quite  extensive — the  result  evidently 
of  much  reading,  and  I hope  of  spiritual  illumination. 
Besides,  he  knows  their  modes  of  thinking  and  reason- 
ing on  moral  subjects,  and  the  objections  they  enter- 
tain against  Christianity,  which  have  been  often  urged 
against  his  faith,  but  which  they  are  more  backward  to 
express  in  my  presence.* 

" In  a communication  from  Mr.  Jones,  the  Baptist  missionary 
who  arrived  shortly  after  1 left  the  country,  he  mentions,  under  date 
Oif  September  22d,  1833,  that  this  little  assembly  continued  their 


SIAM. 


319 


Before  leaving  Siam,  it  was  my  intention  to  have 
visited  other  parts  of  the  kingdom.  Juthia,  the  an- 
cient capital,  and  Chantibun,  situated  on  the  coast 
towards  Cochin-China,  are  places  containing  a large 
population,  and  presenting  many  facilities  for  mis- 
sionary labor.  I have  frequently  conversed  with 
those  who  were  acquainted  with  these  parts  of  the 
country,  and  from  all  that  I could  gather,  they  ap- 
peared to  be  inviting  and  important  spheres  of  Chris- 
tian exertion.  At  Juthia,  probably  at  Chantibun,  the 
Catholics  have  missionaries.  It  might  be  a little  diffi- 
cult at  first  to  get  access  to  these  places,  as  the  Sia- 
mese possess  the  jealousy  and  timidity  of  some  of  their 
neighbors ; but  time  would  no  doubt  soon  remove 
their  suspicions,  and  open  the  way  to  every  part  of 
the  kingdom. 


worship,  and  that  twenty  were  present  on  the  preceding  Sabbath. 
In  another  letter,  dated  December  of  the  same  year,  he  says,  “ our 
little  assembly  of  Chinese  still  continues,  conducted  by  Bunty,  as 
usual.  We  have  for  some  months  had  as  good  evidence  as  I could 
expect,  that  two  or  three  of  his  associates  were  true  converts,  but 
owing  to  my  ignorance  of  their  language,  and  their  slight  acquaint- 
ance with  Siamese,  I had  hitherto  declined  their  repeated  solici- 
tations for  baptism.  At  length  circumstances  were  such  that  I did 
not  feel  at  liberty  to  decline  any  longer,  and  on  Sabbath  morning, 
the  8th  inst.  I administered  the  rite  to  Chek  ^unly,  Chek  Peng 
and  Chek  Seang-seah,” 


* t* 

fe 


; '-  *‘ 


V-  V. 


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i^  r.:  ‘ ^^'vf«-rt'  S8''-v  -^^Pe  ] 

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CHAPTER  XII. 


PASSAGE  FROM  SIAM. 

On  Monday  morning,  November  5th,  Mr.  Hunter 
called  for  me  in  a barge,  and  took  me  to  the  schooner 
m which  I was  going  to  Singapore,  and  which  was 
lying  outside  of  the  bar.  The  schooner  was  chartered 
by  him,  apd  through  his  influence  and  the  kindness  of 
captain  Norris,  I was  again  laid  under  obligations  for 
a passage  without  its  expense.  The  vessel  was  less 
than  a hundred  tons  in  measurement,  and  four  of  us 
were  obliged  to  stow  axcay  in  a very  small  cabin.  No- 
thing peculiar  occurred  on  the  passage,  except  that 
we  came  near  getting  on  a lee  shore,  through  the  in- 
attention of  the  helmsman.  Supposing  that  we  were 
running  in  a line  with  the  peninsula,  we  descried 
land  immediately  before  us,  and  were  obliged  to  beat 
some  time  against  a head  sea,  before  we  felt  it  safe  to 
bear  away.  Had  the  wind  been  powerful,  and  the 
sea  high,  or  had  we  not  enjoyed  the  advantages  of 
daylight,  the  result  would  have  probably  been  other- 


wise. 


322 


RHIO. 


November  23d. — Visited  a Bornea  proa,  in  com- 
pany with  Mr.  Thomseiij  to  obtain*  information  re- 
specting iliat  island,  and  to  distribute  books.  The 
principal  man,  with  whom  we  conversed,  proved  him- 
self intelligent,  and  communicative.  He  belonged  to 
Benjar-Massin,  about  which  place  and  the  other  Dutch 
settlements.  Sambas  and  Pontiana,  he  manifested 
much  knowledge.  He  represents  the  Dyaks  residing 
near  the  settlements,  and  in  the  interior,  as  exceeding- 
ly numerous.  Formerly  they  were  all  very  ferocious ; 
but  the  character  of  many  of  them  has  been  in  a 
measure  meliorated  by  intercourse',with  foreigners,  and 
perhaps  by  some  little  sense  of  fear,  as  well  as  of  pro- 
fit resulting  from  this  connection.  This  applies  prin- 
cipally, if  not  exclusively,  to  those  who  reside  near  the 
station.  He  speaks  of  thousands  of  Chinese  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  mines,  which  abound  in  the  interior, 
— a fact  fully  confirmed  by  Europeans  who  have 
visited  these  places. 

On  Wednesday,  of  November  2Sth,  Mr.  Thomsen 
and  myself  left  Singapore  for  Rhio  in  the  ship  Dedie- 
rika,  captain  Townsend,  who  went  out  of  his  way 
to  accommodate  us,  and  would  receive  nothing  for 
our  passages.  Owing  to  calms,  we  were  nearly  three 
days  in  accomplishing  what  we  expected  to  perform 
in  four-and-twenty  hours.  Our  object  was  to  visit 
Mr.  Wenting,  the  Dutch  missionart'-,  and  distribute 
books  among  the  Malays  and  Chinese.  We  found  a 


RHIO. 


323 


few  thousand  souls  of  each  class  residing  in  Rhid 
and  its  neighborhood. 

Mr.  W.  occupies  a small  island  by  himsglf,  which 
with  others  in  the  vicinity  was  formerly  infested  by 
pirates.  It  was  given  by  the  Dutch  authorities  to  the 
Netherlands’  Society,  on  the  condition  that  their  mis- 
sionaries should  make  it  their  abode.  The  house  is 
situated  upon  its  highest  eminence,  commanding  an 
enchanting  prospect,  and  exposed  to  every  cooling 
breeze.  The  islet  contains  about  one  or  two  hundred 
acres  of  land.  Beside  the  variety  of  its  own  surface, 
checkered  with  lofty  trees  and  native  dwellings — the 
touches  of  culture,  and  the  wildness  of  the  jungle, — 
you  behold  stretching  beyond  it,  an  expanse  of  water, 
bounded  on  the  whole  horizontal  range,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  opening,  by  numerous  islands — here  re- 
tiring behind  each  other  so  as  to  disclose  merely  their 
promontories—  and  there  stretching  in  bold  continuity 
to  an  immense  extent,  in  some  places  so  near  that 
almost  every  object  may  be  defined,  and  in  others  so 
distant  that  you  can  discern  nothing  but  their  azure 
outline.  About  eight  miles  from  3’ou  appears  the 
small  town  of  Rhio,  with  its  few  European  buildings 
and  its  hill-crowned  fort — on  one  side  of  w'hich  is  a 
Chinese  settlement,  on  the  othei;  a Malay  canrpong, 
and  in  front  the  harbor  with  ships  and  native  proas, 
'rhe  only  part  of  the  horizon  not  bounded  by  hills,  is 
the  usual  passage  through  which  vessels  enter  andleave 


324 


SINGAPORE. 


the  harbor  of  Rhio,  and  pass  and  repass  from  Batavia, 
Singapore,  and  other  places  among  these  islands. 

On  the  island  there  are  perhaps  thirty  Malays, 
whom  Mr.  Wenting  teaches  in  a little  airy  chapel 
built  on  another  hill.  We  spent  our  time  principally 
at  Rhio,  and  were  very  hospitably  entertained  by  one 
of  the  Dutch  officers  attached  to  the  military.  From 
the  hill  at  Rhio,  where  the  Europeans  reside,  the  pros- 
pect is  nearly  equal  to  the  one  described.  Among  the 
peculiarities  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  we  found  the 
sensitive  plant,  running  wild  upon  the  hills.  A sweep 
of  the  hand  or  foot  among  its  luxuriant  tendrils  scat- 
tered apparent  death  around,  but  a few  moments 
showed  it  was  mere  appearance,  for  life  and  beau- 
ty were  soon  restored.  We  returned  to  Singapore  in 
one  of  the  small  government  vessels,  manned  with 
natives,  and  fitted  up  to  guard  the  seas  from  pirates. 

January  ISth,  1833. — Yesterday  at  half-past  nine 
m the  morning,  I had  the  mournful  satisfaction  of  wit- 
nessing the  departure  of  my  beloved  Christian  brother, 
the  Rev.  Robert  Burn,  chaplain  of  Singapore.  I feel 
thankful  for  the  privilege  of  attending  his  sick  bed  for 
about  a month  and  a half,  and  for  receiving  and 
endeavoring  to  communicate  such  lessons,  as  fit 
the  dying  to  depart  in  peace,  and  the  surviving  to  live 
with  profit. 

Mr.  Burn  was  an  ornament  to  the  ministry.  In 
him  were  united  some  of  the  rarest  qualities  of  intel- 


SINGAPORE. 


325 


lect  and  heart.  In  the  private  circle  and  in  the  pulpit 
he  often  manifested  such  efforts  of  genius  and  judg- 
ment as  are  seldom  combined.  His  views  of  divine 
truth  were  uncommonly  expansive  and  consistent, 
and  what  gave  them  a double  charm  and  impressive- 
ness, was  the  tenderness  and  humility  of  spirit 
which  they  had  produced  in  himself.  His  judgment 
Wcis  too  unbiased,  and  his  experience  too  comprehen- 
sive to  consider  important  those  trifling  points  which 
divide  into  parties  the  Christian  church.  He  had  his 
peculiar  views  and  predilections,  but  in  his  intercourse 
with  those  of  other  sects,  they  were  never  obtruded, 
and  in  his  ordinary  conversation  they  were  seldom 
mentioned.  Where  he  saw  the  image  of  Jesus  he 
acknowledged  a brother.  Missionaries  of  every 
name  and  from  every  country  were  welcomed  to  his 
house,  and  while  he  gladly  co-operated  with  them  in 
; their  missionary  labors,  he  availed  himself  of  all  their 
aid  in  his  own  sphere  of  duty.  “Such  Christian 
magnanimity  how  rare,”  and  yet  how  conducive  to 
the  interests  of  all  parties — the  salvation  of  a world — 
the  glory  of  an  undivided  Saviour. 

But  there  was  another  peculiarity  in  this  beloved 
brother,  which  not  only  won  the  hearts  of  all  who 
knew  him,  but  perhaps  more  than  any  thing  else  im- 
proved those  other  traits  of  character  in  which  he 
excelled.  He  was  not  simply  an  Apollos  in  the  Scrip- 
tures, but  an  Israel  in  prayer.  Before  I had  the  plea- 
28 


326 


SINGAPORE. 


sure  of  his  acquaintance,  he  was  described  to  me  as 
one  who  appeared  ready  under  all  circumstances  to 
“fall  upon  his  knees  before  God  and  the  first  time 
and  the  last,  and  every  time,  I heard  him  give  utterance 
to  the  sanctified  impressions  and  desires  of  his  own 
heart  exceeded  every  expectation  I had  formed.  Such 
a fervor  and  confidence  of  spirit — such  power  in  em- 
ploying the  arguments  which  a covenant  God  has 
furnished,  and  which  He  cannot  resist — such  a tender 
concern  for  all  his  friends,  his  scattered  brethren  in 
Christ,  and  his  perishing  fellow-sinners  in  everyplace, 
I believe  is  rarely  exhibited — scarcely  ever  surpassed. 
The  admiration  of  all  who  ever  heard  him  pray  is 
uniform.  God  grant  that  many  such  spiritual  wrest- 
lers may  adorn  and  bless  the  church. 

But  with  all  our  interest  in  this  esteemed  man,  we 
do  not  wish  to  imply  that  there  was  nothing  defective 
in  his  character.  “ He  had  his  faults,  who  has  not.” 
In  his  own  estimation  he  was  below  all  things — none 
so  unqualified  for  his  office,  so  unfaithful  in  the  dis- 
charge of  its  responsible  duties.  He  could  weep  and 
tremble  when  this  was  the  theme,  and  wish  that  he 
might  escape  from  the  station  he  so  miserahhj  filled, 
and  shrink  away  into  his  beloved  retirement — an  un- 
known obscurity.  This  was  well  as  far  as  it  respects 
its  influence  on  his  own  spirits  ; but  it  evidently  in- 
terfered with  his  usefulness.  It  often  destroyed  that 
independence  of  judgment  and  firmness  of  decision. 


SINGAPORE. 


327 


which  are  quite  as  important,  as  obstinacy  is  injurious. 
That  which  he  most  deplored  upon  his  bed  of  death 
was  the  singular  aversion,  which  he  had  from  his  in- 
fancy, to  mingling  with  society,  or  being  made  at  all 
conspicuous.  I never  knew  such  diffidence  connect- 
ed with  such  capabilities  of  intellect.  He  was  almost 
paralyzed  to  confront  those  with  whom  he  was  not 
intimate,  and  in  a degree  .proportioned  to  the  part  he 
was  expected  to  sustain  in  their  presence.  When 
preaching,  he  had  not  the  courage  to  look  one  of  his 
congregation  in  the  face.  This  characteristic,  though 
perfectly  natural,  proved  a detriment  to  his  extensive 
usefulness. 

It  was  our  earnest  desire,  and  not  without  some 
grounds  of  expectation,  that  this  sickness  might  not 
be  unto  death,  but  for  the  glory  of  God,  in  the  emi- 
nent devotion  of  his  servant’s  future  course,  A large 
majority  with  the  same  complaint  and  under  the  same 
treatment  had  recovered ; and  it  was  not  until  he 
sunk  under  an  irrecoverable  collapse,  that  the  thought 
of  dying  was  admitted  with  any  seriousness  to  our 
minds.  We  were  much  of  the  time  together,  both 
waiting  for  the  first  favorable  opportunity  to  embark 
for  England,  The  evening  of  the  sudden  change 
which  decided  in  our  minds  his  earthly  destiny,  I was 
with  him  until  a late  hour.  We  engaged  in  our  de- 
votions as  usual,  and  separated  for  the  night,  without 
the  least  expectation  of  his  hastening  departure.  The 


328 


SINGAPORE. 


next  morning  the  news  came  that  he  had  passed  a 
night  of  extreme  illness,  and  probably  would  not  sur- 
vive the  day.  Agonized  with  the  unlooked  for  change, 
I hastened  to  his  bed-side,  but  though  he  recognized 
me,  and  expressed  his  full  knowledge  of  his  approach- 
ing end,  his  mind  soon  lost  its  balance.  At  first  he 
WEIS  agitated.  It  was  a midnight  summons,  and  we 
were  all  slumbering  together  ; but  when  he  trimmed 
his  lamp  and  found  his  vessel  replenished — nay,  when 
he  looked  up,  and  beheld  the  bridegroom,  he  recovered 
from  the  shock,  and  became  composed.  From  this 
change,  which  preceded  his  departure  about  three  days, 
he  was  generally  in  a state  of  delirium,  and  continued 
unconscious  of  his  situation,  until  his  spirit  was  releas- 
ed from  its  prison,  and  admitted  into  “ the  joy  of  his 
Lord.” 

Eternity  probably  never  appeared  so  much  a re- 
ality, a present  reality — never  did  the  glories  of  heaven 
so  powerfully  possess  the  minds  of  the  few  who  stood 
around  this  departing  brother,  as  the  moment  when 
we  believed  he  awoke  from  utter  unconsciousness,  to 
the  enjoyment  of  his  Saviour’s  perfect  likeness  and 
fruition.  O how  solemn  was  the  place.  We  felt  that 
the  King  of  Saints  and  his  ministering  angels  were 
with  us,  and  as  we  committed  the  spirit  in  silence  to 
the  favor  of  its  covenant  God,  a thrill  of  rapture  chas- 
ed away  the  anguish,  with  which  we  had  been  op- 
pressed. Among  our  number  was  the  bereaved  com- 


SINGAPORE. 


329 


panion  whom  he  held  most  dear  in  life,  and  whose 
delicate  frame  and  sensitive  heart  were  wonderfully 
sustained  in  this  hour  of  overpowering  sadness,  and 
overpowering  joy.  Another  was  a friend*  who  had  mi- 
nistered most  kindly  to  his  wants,  and  from  beneath 
whose  hospitable  roof  he  took  his  heaven-ward  flight. 
God  grant  that  we  may  all  live  under  the  impressions 
of  that  hour,— then  shall  we  not  live  in  vain. 

Mr.  Burn  was  the  son  of  major  general  Andrew 
Burn,  whose  interesting  memoirs  are  before  the  Chris- 
tian public.  Beside  his  afflicted  widow,  he  has  left  a 
brother  in  the  ministry  and  six  sisters  to  mourn  their 
loss,  though  they  can  all  rejoice  in  his  gain.  Like 
Henry  Martyn,  his  chief  inducement  in  accepting  a 
chaplaincy  to  the  East  was  the  desire  of  usefulness 
among  the  heathen.  He  had  a considerable  acquain- 
tance with  two  of  the  languages  of  the  country,  and 
wrote  several  Christian  works  in  one  of  them.  May 
his  example  stimulate  many,  who  occupy  similar  sta- 
tions in  India,  and  beyond  the  Ganges,  and  whose 
influence  and  exertions  are  much  needed  in  the  con- 
version of  the  heathen  nations. 

May  20th. — During  the  illness  of  Mr.  Burn, 
and  after  his  decease,  my  health  was  sufficiently 
strong  to  allow  me  to  occupy  his  place  in  the 
duties  of  the  chaplaincy.  Such  was  the  beneficial 


' T.  Oxley,  Esq.,  surgeon  of  the  station. 
28* 


330 


BORNEO. 


influence  of  the  change  upon  my  constitution,  and 
such  the  efiect  of  the  preached  word,  that  I concluded 
on  deferring  ray  visit,  until  I should  see  whether  it 
was  absolutely  necessary  to  leave  these  scenes  of  la- 
bor, and  diminish  still  more  the  small  number  of  mis- 
sionaries in  the  field.  The  trial  of  parting  with 
friends  and  country  is  great,  but  the  necessity  of  leav- 
ing the  heathen  world,  where  you  see  millions  perish- 
ing without  instruction,  and  especially  if  you  have 
become  at  all  qualified  for  usefulness,  is  much  more 
painful  to  liim  whose  heart  is  fully  interested  in  his 
work. 

In  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of  the  chaplaincy, 
the  study  of  languages  and  some  external  labors 
among  the  Chinese,  my  time  was  occupied  for  four  or 
five  months.  I attempted  to  supply  every  Chinese 
family  in  the  place  with  Christian  books  ; but  while 
engaged  in  the  task,  my  health  again  yielded  to  the 
influence  of  the  climate,  and  I was  obliged  to  leave 
the  work  one-half,  perhaps  two-thirds  unaccomplish- 
ed. A change  of  air  and  scene  within  the  tropics 
may  prove  useful  to  an  invalid,  but  it  rarely  restores 
a debilitated  constitution,  and  generally  loses  all  its 
influence  after  a season. 

During  my  residence  at  Singapore,  I became  ac- 
quainted with  nearly  all  the  European  families  in  the 
place,  and  received  from  many  of  them  the  most  pohte 
and  kind  attentions.  Especially  was  I laid  under  ob- 


SINGAPORE. 


331 


ligations  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomsen,  of  the  mission 
family,  and  Messrs.  Oxley  and  Diggles,  under  whose 
hospitable  roof  I spent  the  greater  part  of  my  time. 
I was  not  only  the  guest  but  the  patient  of  the  former 
gentleman,  and  enjoyed  in  his  hands  the  most  grate- 
ful services.* 

Saturday  evening.  May  25th,  1833. — Embarked 
in  the  Cambridge,  captain  Barber,  for  England.  The 
want  of  multiplied  comforts  and  medical  attendance, 
only  to  be  enjoyed  in  large  passenger  ships,  and  quite 
indispensable  in  my  precarious  state  of  health,  deter- 
mined my  choice,  or  rather  precluded  all  choice  in  the 
selection  of  a vessel.  A few  days  after  leaving  Sin- 
gapore, we  made  the  coast  of  Borneo,  and  kept  the 
island  in  sight  nearly  a week. 


• Many  changes  have  occurred  at  Singapore  since  I first  visited 
the  place.  The  death  of  Mr.  Burn — the  marriage  of  MissMartyn, 
on  account  of  which  the  Chinese  schools  have  sufiered  an  irrepa- 
rable loss,  at  least  for  some  time  to  come ; and  very  recently  the  re- 
moval of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomsen — the  only  missionaries  in  the  sta- 
tion, on  account  of  ill  health.  The  chaplaincy  has  been  supplied 
by  Mr.  Darrah,  who,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Thomas  Scott,  a 
young  gentleman  engaged  in  commerce,  has  resumed  some  of  the 
schools.  I am  happy  to  find  that  the  American  Board  of  Foreign 
Missions  have  recently  occupied  this  field,  and  intend  making  Sin- 
gapore their  principal  station  in  these  countries.  The  printing  ap- 
paratus, having  fonts  in  two  or  three  languages,  has  been  purchas- 
ed, and  missionaries  sent  forth. 


■' 


wiV».i  fcU»u  t-..f  ^ fc.  j.  .,  * 


.rS. 


' ■/•♦ . 


'4X';t*«*'*tj>i  t/yjij  *<l  fe/uf  *Hu((j^,if 

1L..  ImIl  atf  t «'a  a t 

fT  » «*|  O*}^. 


‘ i><i»^!»idhj^.i»iy^jaj^^ 

>*  X ^ '^f-'  m 

' •':.  »^3pr  ui 

k^i  4 ■■s..:t^-.i«^ k^ia  ? - ••  ■ T " ^ 

» ’t W; . ' - • A-  al£  '.» .{5  J f 

i -rx^^-^u  -rwV  »j^.T»^‘Miij^ 

'44<r'x 


. * - - ■^*-  ^ • rT».»  " ^'  >*  ■ ' ’ ^ ^ ‘ U t*  T 

k , , ’-jH  Sh;*^4  .^;»  •.  >■- 

f — . .,fC  -.  -<w>  »-  rV*  V *-*-  '*  *^- 


• I*'  >»>'^  .^V 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


ISLANDS  OP  THE  ARCHIPELAGO — BORNEO. 

With  a single  exception,  Borneo  is  the  largest 
island  in  the  world.  It  is  more  extensive  than  any 
kingdom  of  Europe,  and  although  a wilderness,  and 
a vast  haunt  of  savage  beasts  and  men ; it  possesses 
capabilities  of  culture  and  decoration,  traffic,  health, 
and  wealth,  scarcely  surpassed  by  any  locality  in 
eastern  Asia.  The  island  is  described  by  one*  who 
travelled  six  hundred  miles  in  the  interior,  and  visited 
Bagottan,  Passier,  and  Coti,  as  “ equal  in  climate,  and 
superior  in  productions  to  any  part  of  Asia  he  had  seen 
or  heard  of.”  This  gentleman  had  himself  visited  many 
of  the  best  parts  of  India,  and  was,  on  this  account,  the 
more  capable  of  estimating  its  relative  value. 

The  coast  throughout  its  whole  circumference  is 
in  the  possession  of  foreign  settlers,  who  have  estab- 

•J.  Dalton,  Esq.,  from  whose  interesting  journal  these  remarks 
are  principally  taken,  and  whose  extensive  observations  have  gen- 
erally confirmed  the  reports  of  other  writers.  At  Singapore, 
where  Mr.  D.  lived  and  died,  and  where  his  journal  was  published, 
his  authority  is  relied  on.  In  some  other  places,  where  neither 
the  man  nor  the  subjects  upon  which  he  treats  are  at  all  known,  it 
has  been  questioned. 


» 


r 


334 


BORNEO. 


lished  themselves  here  at  successive  periods,  and 
claim  the  right  of  possession,  as  a privilege  vested  in 
their  commercial  and  physical  importance.  Bugis, 
Malays,  Chinese,  and  Cambodjians,  have  each  retained 
a foot-hold.  The  Dutch  is  the  only  European  power 
who  have  preserved  their  settlements.  The  whole  of 
the  interior,  from  within  a few  miles  of  the  extreme 
points  of  Salatin  on  the  north,  to  Sooloo  on  the  south, 
from  near  Pontiana  on  the  west,  to  Coti  on  the  east, 
is  in  the  possession  of  the  Dyaks — the  aborigines 
of  the  island.*  From  intercourse  with  more  civi- 
lized strangers,  the  natives  who  live  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  coasts,  differ  materially  in  their  spirit  and  habits 
from  their  brethren  in  the  interior.  They  are  repre- 
sented as  tractable  and  mild  in  disposition,  though 
so  stupid  or  pusillanimous  as  to  submit  to  every 
indignity  without  resistance.  They  are  subject  to 
Moslem  chiefs,  who  have  established  themselves  on 
the  banks  of  the  rivers,  and  of  course  do  all  they 
can  to  extend  their  authority.  The  mass  of  the  na- 
tives under  these  sultans,  remains  unconverted  to  the 
Mahomedan  faith.  The  population  of  the  interior 
is  cut  up  into  innumerable  tribes,  who  either  associ- 
ate fot  the  sake  of  mutual  protection  and  ravage,  or 
maintain  a separate  and  independent  stand.  The 
smaller  rivers  are  generally  in  the  possession  of  a dis-  ^ 

* It  is  said  there  are  other  savages  in  Borneo  distinguished  by  ‘f 
other  names  than  Dyak^  though  much  like  them  in  appearance  and 
habits. 


BORNEO! 


335 


tinct  tribe ; the  larger  ones,  whose  banks  are  suffi- 
ciently extensive,  accommodate  a'  number  of  them. 
They  are  described  as  bearing  a general  resemblance 
to  each  other,  and  being  very  unlike  all  their  neigh- 
bors. For  symmetry  of  form,  strength  and  agility 
of  muscle,  and  the  most  unyielding  courage  and  en- 
durance, the  aborigines  of  Borneo  claim  a high  dis- 
tinction among  their  fellow  creatures.  The  friendly 
disposition  expressed  by  some  of  their  most  powerful 
tribes  towards  Europeans,  presents  an  opening  to 
foreign  intercourse  and  influence  ; while  their  actvie 
sturdy  habits,  so  different  from  their  Malayan  neigh- 
bors, furnish  a most  promising  field  of  culture  to  the 
philanthropist  and  Christian.  But  alas,  while  this 
moral  scene  glows  with  beauty  in  the  distant  perspec- 
tive, the  foreground  is  filled  up  with  every  wreck 
and  ruin  of  humanity.  Regarding  the  Dyaks  in  their 
present  estate,  it  would  be  difficult — impossible  to  find 
their  equals  in  all  that  disgraces  and  degrades  human 
nature.  Others  are  far  below  them  in  mental  and 
bodily  enervation,  but  we  read  of  none  so  debased  in 
the  scale  of  depravity.  In  the  most  unprovoked,  un- 
restrained barbarity,  they  exceed  the  American  In- 
diein — the  Charib,  or  the  New  Zealander.  How  much 
they  need  the  blessings  of  Christianity  may  be  gath- 
ered from  their  present  mode  of  life.  War  is  their 
business,  murder  their  pastime,  and  the  trophies  of 
their  cruelty  their  proudest  distinction.  Nothing  is 


336 


BORNEO. 


too  high  for  their  daring — nothing  too  low  for  their 
despicable  cruelty.'  All  who  belong  not  to  their  con- 
federacy are  reputed  enemies,  whose  heads  they  en- 
deavor to  secure  at  any  hazard  and  by  any  means. 
The  unfair  and  savage  manner  in  which  they  prose- 
cute their  warlike  expeditions,  or  rather  their  expe- 
ditions in  search  of  human  heads,  is  abhorrent  beyond 
all  parallel.  Insulated  huts — defenceless  campongs — 
unwary  fishermen — wretched  stragglers — old  and 
young  of  either  sex,  are  alike  their  prey.  The  men  and 
elder  women  are  inevitably  murdered — the  young  wo- 
men and  children  they  convert  into  their  slaves.  In  an 
expedition  of  Selgie,  one  of  the  most  powerful  chiefs, 
which  consumed  three  months,  they  took  seven  hun- 
dred heads.  Such  is  the  importance  attached  to  a war- 
rior who  possesses  many  heads,  that  he  takes  his  place 
in  the  presence  of  the  rajah  with  the  air  of  exalted 
Worth ; while  those  who  are  destitute  of  these  distin- 
* guishing  trophies  are  glad  to  creep  into  any  corner  to 
escape  notice.  Human  heads  are  made  to  grace  the 
occurrence  of  every  important  event.  They  are  em- 
ployed to  celebrate  a Dyak’s  birth,  and  consecrate  his 
marriage;  to  mitigate  his  diseases,  and  appease  his 
spirit  after  death.  Marriage  is  always  referred  to  the 
rajah,  who  calls  before  him  the  young  man  and  the 
father  of  the  girl.  If  the  latter  can  produce  ten  heads, 
the  former  must  show  half  the  number,  under  the 
expectation  that  when  his  age  equals  the  other,  the 


4 

% 


BORNEO. 


337 


emblems  of  their  bravery  will  be  alike.  If  the  young 
man  is  unable  to  produce  the  requisite  number,  he 
obtains  a few  friends,  and  sallies  forth  in  search  of 
the  deficiency,  well  aware  that  if  he  do  not  succeed, 
his  lastmg  disgrace  shall  be  the  consequence.  Every 
head  is  submitted  to  a close  examination,  and  none 
but  those  of  recent  victims  are  admissible.  A part  of 
the  ceremony  consists  in  both  parties’  taking  a head  in 
each  hand  and  dancing  around  each  other,  with  the 
most  extravagant  gestures,  amidst  the  applauses  of 
the  rajah  and  people.  Upon  the  death  of  the  chief, 
the  mound  in  which  the  body  is  deposited  must  be 
studded  with  fresh  heads,  as  the  most  acceptable  oifer- 
ing  to  the  deceased.  No  warrior  can  presume  to 
make  a visit  of  condolence  to  the  family,  without 
bringing  at  least  one  head  for  the  occasion.  During 
the  first  year  or  two,  these  heads  are  occasionally 
changed.  All  kinds  of  sickness  are  supposed  to  be 
under  the  influence  of  malignant  spirits,  whom  no- 
thing can  so  well  propitiate  as  human  heads. 

What  mournful  ravages  must  a custom  so  prevalent 
and  desolating  spread  throughout  this  vast  island ! 
What  numbers  of  victims  are  annually  required,  for 
such  numberless  purposes  ! "Wlrat  can  prevent  a total 
and  speedy  extermination  of  all  these  ignorant,  ill-fated 
tribes,  if  Christian  charity  slumber  much  longer  over 
their  appeals  for  mercy?  In  their  amusements,  and 
sometimes  even  in  their  domestic  economy,  the  same 
^ 29 


338 


BORNEO. 


reckless  disregard  for  human  life  is  evinced.  They  are 
extravagantly  fond  of  cock-fighting,  and  stake  almost 
every'  thing  they  can  command  upon  the  game.  If 
the  sum  be  lost  and  not  paid  within  twenty-four  hours, 
the  winner  has  a legal  right  to  dispatch  his  debtor, 
and  he  generally  does  it.  Upon  an  expedition,  if  the 
rajah’s  appetite  craves  any  thing  fresh,  and  an  inferior 
animal  is  not  at  hand,  one  of  his  train  is  butchered, 
and  served  up  as  a substitute.  When  the  men  of 
wealth  bury  their  treasure,  which  is  a common  cus- 
tom, they  uniformly  destroy  the  slaves  who  assisted 
them,  that  the  secret  of  the  depository  might  be  con- 
fined to  themselves. 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  what  ideas  upon  religion 
the  Dyaks  entertain.  They  have  no  apparent  dread 
of  dying.  Their  great  and  only  fear  is  the  loss  of  their 
heads,  and  this  they  deprecate  more  than  the  majority 
in  Christian  lands  do  the  loss  of  their  souls.  Yet 
there  are  evidently  some  glimmerings  of  a future  state 
ill  their  darkened  minds,  from  their  burial  rites  and 
from  other  circumstances,  which  are  grounded  upon  a 
belief  in  the  continued  existence  of  the  spirit.  That 
they  have  no  ideas  of  a retribution  for  their  present 
actions  appears  very  evident  from  their  brutal  conduct, 
without  they  reverse  all  natural  sentiments  of  right 
and  wrong,  or  believe  that  the  awards  of  eternity  are 
to  be  equally  reversed.  Islamism,  which  has  planted 
itself  upon  their  coasts,  and  succeeded  in  captivating 


BORNEO. 


339 


the  Bugies,  Malays,  and  neighboring  tribes,  has  not 
been  able  to  bow  these  sturdy  spirits  to  its  yoke. 

It  is  said  by  some  of  the  older  writers  that  their 
language  contains  many  words  common  to  the  Malay 
and  the  Sanscrit.  They  appear  to  have  no  written 
characters,  as  Mr.  D.  met  but  three  men  who  could 
write,  and  they  had  been  taught  the  Bugis  language, 
and  were  regarded  as  prodigies.  Towards  the  centre, 
and  inclining  to  the  north,  the  natives  are  described  as 
less  tractable — roving  about  the  woods,  naked  and  wild 
— neither  dwelling  in  huts,  nor  cultivating  the  ground, 
nor  even  associating  with  each  other.  These  misera- 
ble creatures  are  hunted  by  the  more  civilized  Dyaks 
as  an  amusement.  Their  infant  children,  whom  the 
mothers  cradle  upon  the  pendant  braziches  of  trees,  are 
shot  like  monkeys.  The  captured  men  are  of  course 
beheaded,  and  the  women  spared  only  when  young. 
The  children  are  taken  home  and  made  their  drudges^ 
To  prevent  their  escape,  which  their  masters  declare 
is  invariable,  if  intrusted  with  their  liberty,  they  cut 
off  a foot,  and  stick  the  stump  in  a bamboo  of  molten 
damar.  This  prevents  their  running,  and  secures 
their  services  in  paddling  their  boats.  The  north 
and  north-west  coast  has  seldom,  if  ever,  been  visited 
by  Europeans.  The  Bugis  and  other  traders  affirm 
that  it  is  by  far  the  richest  part  of  the  island,  contain- 
ing a dense  population,  who  carry  on  an  extensive 
traffic  with  Cambodjia  and  the  neighboring  islands^ 


340 


BORNEO. 


The  Cambodjia  language  is  as  much  employed  as  any 
other.  Near  Pontiana  is  a large  number  of  Chinese, 
who  work  the  mines,  and  who  are  accessible  to  the 
Christian  missionary.  Mr.  Medhurst  visited  them  a 
few  years,  and  published  an  interesting  account  of  his 
tour. 

Borneo,  as  a missionary  field,  might  be  imme- 
diately occupied.  Our  ignorance  prevents  us  from 
stating  very  definitely  its  advantages  for  Christian 
enterprise.  No  doubt  serious  obstacles  will  oppose 
the  work,  and  much  self-denial  and  perseverance  will 
be  necessary  in  its  prosecution  ; still  there  are  sta- 
tions where  missionaries  would  be  protected,  and 
whence  encroachments  might  be  gradually  made 
upon  the  interior,  until  the  length  and  breadth  of  this 
extensive  land  was  possessed.  The  Romish  propa- 
ganda have  been  addressed  upon  the  subject  by  a 
child  of  that  church,  who  formerly  resided  upon  the 
island,  but  his  Holiness,  contrary  to  his  usual  vigi- 
lance and  promptness  of  action,  has  thus  far  neglected 
the  opportunity.  The  writer  met  the  present  resident 
of  Pontiana  at  Batavia.  He  says  the  natives  near  the 
foreign  settlement  are  heartily  sick  of  Mahomedan 
tyranny,  and  would  gladly  exchange  their  faith  to  be 
released  from  their  masters.  The  number  of  Dyaks 
in  the  vicinity  of  this  station  are  supposed  to  amount 
to  two  or  three  hundred  thousands,  besides  twenty  or 
thirty  thousand  Chinese,  and  a number  of  Malays, 


BORNEO. 


341 


He  appeared  desirous  that  missionaries  should  be  sent, 
and  would  no  doubt  assist  in  their  establishment. 
Here  then,  the  first  mission  might  be  planted.  Sam- 
bas, and  Banjar-massin,  also  in  the  possession  of  the 
Dutch,  will  probably  be  found  equally  accessible  and 
inviting. 

From  Mr.  Dalton’s  account,  the  natives  of  the 
interior  are  very  desirous  of  cultivating  an  inter- 
course with  Europeans.  Selgie,  the  most  powerful 
chief  in  the  south-east  division  of  the  island,  said  that 
he  would  even  desist  firom  the  custom  of  cutting  off 
heads,  and  submit  to  Europeans  in  any  thing,  if  he 
could  enjoy  the  advantages  of  their  trade.  Mr.  D. 
thinks  a traffic  with  these  people  would  be  both  prac- 
ticable and  profitable.  The  rich  productions  of  their 
country  might  be  received  for  the  superabundant  arti- 
cles of  European  growth  and  manufacture.  Though 
their  object  in  wishing  to  form  an  acquaintance  with 
foreigners,  is  purely  secular  advantage,  yet  it  proves 
that  they  are  far  from  being  averse  to  Europeans,  or 
wishing  to  keep  aloof  from  them.  And  if  an  honora- 
ble trade  is  to  be  a means  of  introducing  the  Gospel, 
the  time  is  no  doubt  approaching,  when  the  heart  of 
many  a godly  merchant  shall  leap  at  the  honor  of 
such  an  enterprise,  and  his  “swift  ships”  fly  upon 
these  errands  of  mercy. 

It  is  not  to  be  concealed  that  the  pirates  which 
infest  parts  of  the  coast,  and  the  mouths  of  some 

29* 


342 


BORNEO. 


of  the  rivers,  are  numerous  and  desperate.  Plun- 
der is  their  only  object,  force  their  only  law,  and 
destruction  the  only  quarter  they  show;  but  they 
are  principally  confined  to  the  south-east  and  east 
coasts,  and  there  would  be  no  necessity  of  going  near 
their  districts,  at  least  with  vessels,  which  would 
invite  an  attack  or  could  not  repel  one.  Between  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  coast  and  some  of  its  most  inacces- 
sible points,  and  Singapore,  there  is  a constant  trade 
kept  up,  and  the  missionary  residing  at  the  latter 
place  often  visits  their  prows  and  supplies  them  with 
Christian  books.  Here,  then,  is  another  opening, 
through  which  the  Gospel  might  be  introduced,  not 
only  in  the  way  of  tracts,  but  through  the  visitation 
of  the  living  teacher.  As  in  the  case  of  Mr.  Dalton, 
these  traders  might  be  bound  to  protect  the  missiona- 
ry, by  the  strongest  guarantee  they  know,  and  thus 
he  might  gain  access,  under  a security,  which,  inde- 
pendent of  the  special  protection  from  on  high,  would 
give  him  comparative  safety. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


CELEBES. 

i 

Celebes — a short  distance  east  of  Borneo,  is 
another  island  of  much  importance  and  teeming  with 
unchristian,  cruel  inhabitants.  It  is  remarkable  for 
the  martial  spirit,  commercial  enterprise,  and  piratical 
atrocities  of  many  of  its  inhabitants.  The  most 
prominent  nations  are  the  Bugis  and  Macassar  or 
Mengasar  tribes.  They  speak  different  languages,  or 
more  properly  different  dialects  of  the  same  language  ; 
the  written  character  is  nearly  the  same.  The  lan- 
guage of  Goa  or  Macassar  is  peculiarly  soft  and  easy 
of  acquisition,  but  not  so  copious  as  the  Bugis — the 
latter  having  embodied  in  their  vocabulary  a greater 
number  of  foreign  words.  The  literary  compositions 
in  both  are  numerous.  They  consist  principally  of 
historical  details,  written  since  the  introduction  of  Ma- 
homedanism,  in  the  early  part  of  the  sixteenth  cen 
tury ; traditions  of  more  early  times,  romances,  poetical 
compositions  of  love,  war  and  Ihe  chase.  They  have 
a paraphrase  of  the  Koran,  and  several  works  transla- 
ted, most  probably  from  the  Javanese  and  Arabic  ; 


344 


CELEBES. 


each  particular  state  records  its  public  events  as  they 
occur. 

In  intellectual  vigor,  and  various  acquirements, 
these  nations  far  surpass  the  Malays,  and  many  other 
of  the  neighboring  tribes.  Here  then  are  advantages 
for  missionary  labor,  which  are  seldom  found  among 
such  otherwise  barbarous  creatures.  They  have  ex- 
tended their  commerce  from  the  western  shores  of 
Siam  to  the  eastern  coast  of  New-Holland.  Except- 
ing the  Arabs,  they  are  the  only  traders  of  conse- 
quence through  the  Archipelago.  They  have  the 
cliaracter  of  fair  dealing  in  trade,  but  are  most  deter- 
mined pirates — preying  especially  upon  their  weaker 
neighbors,  the  Malays,  whom  they  regard  as  their  in- 
feriors. The  Mahomedan  religion  prevails  in  the 
south-west,  but  generally  in  the  north  and  central 
parts  of  the  island  they  are  Pagans,  or  scarcely  have 
a religion.  The  aborigines  of  the  island,  possessing 
the  interior,  are  strikingly  allied  in  appearance  and 
customs  to  the  Dyaks  of  Borneo.  They  are  known 
by  the  same  name.  By  the  Dutch  they  are  denomi- 
nated Alforees.  The  fondness  of  both  for  cutting  off 
heads  is  the  same — their  languages  are  different. 

Mandhaar,  on  the  west  coast  of  Celebes,  was  vis- 
ited by  Mr.  Dalton.  The  mountains  are  stupendous, 
and  can  be  seen  at  a distance  of  one  hundred  miles  or 
more,  at  sea.  For  more  than  twelve  miles  along  the 
shore  where  he  landed,  the  houses  almost  join  each 


CELKBES. 


345 


other.  The  people  are  in  general  miserably  poor, 
and  live  upon  the  meanest  fare.  All  the  ric^  which 
they  use,  is  brought  from  a distance  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles.  None  but  the  chief  people  can  afibrd 
this  luxury.  The  inhabitants  generally  live  upon 
sago,  which,  though  of  a coarse  quality,  grows  most 
luxuriantly,  and  imposes  no  other  tax  upon  the  indo- 
lence of  the  natives  than  the  labor  of  collecting  it. 
Cocoa-nuts  of  the  most  delicious  flavor  abound.  For 
seventy  miles  i^  length,  the  whole  coast  is  adorned 
with  cocoa-nut  trees,  extending  in  many  places  to  the 
base  of  the  mountains,  half  a mile  from  the  shore. 
These  constitute  a principal  article  of  trade, — being 
exported  in  great  numbers  to  every  part  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  Borneo,  where  very  few  are  produced. 

Shell-fish  enters  largely  into  the  common  food  of 
the  inhabitants.  These  they  take  when  the  tide  ebbs. 
The  shore  is  sandy  and  the  sea  retires  at  least  four 
miles,  at  which  time  the  whole  population  is  in  motion, 
following  the  water  as  it  recedes,  and  picking  up  crabs 
ana  various  kinds  of  craw-fish.  When  the  tide  flows 
again,  the  diflerent  parties  get  into  their  small  canoes 
and  paddle  to  their  houses.  Fish  caught  in  nets,  is 
eaten  only  by  the  wealthier  class,  for  though  very 
cheap,  it  proves  too  dear  for  those  who  have  nothing 
to  purchase  it.  The  only  articles  the  common  peo- 
ple are  obliged  to  buy,  are  tobacco  and  salt,  and  to 
pay  for  these,  all  the  women  and  children  of  the  com- 


346 


CELEBES. 


munity  spend  their  time  in  making  sarongs,  for  which  * 
they  obtain  a sufficient  sum  to  procure  the  required 
articles,’ and  to  furnish  the  master  of  the  house  with 
a small  allowance  for  gambling.  The  rajah  and  his 
family,  and  all  others  who  can  meet  the  required  ex- 
pense, smoke  great  quantities  of  opium.  From  the 
effects  of  this  drug,  they  are  constantly  in  a state  of 
stupidity,  and  refuse  to  see  strangers  until  time  is 
given  them  to  recover.  They  sell  their  gold  dust,  in 
which  the  rajah  and  some  of  his  brothers  are  rich, 
for  nothing  but  opium,  muskets,  s\^vels  and  gun- 
powder. 

^ Mamoodjoo,  the  prii^ipal  campong  in  the  district 
of  Mandhaar,  is  the  residence  of  about  forty  rajahs, 
each  of  whom  has  a separate  dominion  in  the  interior, 
although  they  prefer  living  together  on  the  coast. 
Their  countries  produce  gold,  of  which  they  get  suffi- 
cient for  their  wants.  Many  of  them  appear  to  pos- 
sess a large  quantity  of  the  metal,  and  although  cau- 
tious in  every  other  kind  of  expenditure,  they  willing- 
ly bring  forth  any  amount  to  pay  for  the  means  of 
carrying  on  their  wars  and  piracies,  and  to  purchase 
enough  of  opium  to  keep  them  in  a constant  delirium 
of  intoxication. 

From  the  point  of  Mandhaar  to  Kylie,  including 
that  place,  there  are  about  fifty  rajahs,  few  of  whom 
have  less  than  ten  prows,  and  some  even  upwards 
of  one  hundred.  The  smallest  of  these  carry  one 


CELEBES. 


347 


barrel  of  gun-powder — the  largest  five,  beside  which 
they  always  keep  a quantity  on  shore.  The  large 
supply  of  this  article  in  constant  demand,  is  smuggled 
from  Java,  and  obtained  from  American  vessels,  near 
Penang.  Such  is  the  miserable  quality  of  the  powder 
sold  them  by  the  Americans,  who  employ  samples  of 
a good  quality  to  deceive  them,  that  it  is  necessary  to 
prime  with  another  kind ; and  the  muskets  are  compos- 
ed of  such  materials,  that  you  are  said  to  be  nearly  as 
safe  in  being  shot  at,  as  in  firing  them.  Still  these 
numerous  pirates  commit,  at  times,  dreadftil  ravages. 
Two  Dutch  vessels  were  taken  by  them  in  1828,  and 
every  soul  on  board  murdered.  The  inhabitants  of 
Kylie  are  proverbial  every  where  for  these  atrocities. 
For  the  last  twenty  years  the  rajah  has  carried  on  his 
depredations  in  these  seas,  and  besides  his  other  cap- 
tures has  taken  many  Europeans,  a few  of  whom  it 
is  thought  are  still  living  in  slavery,  in  Borneo. 

Except  Macassar,  no  part  of  Celebes  has  been 
conquered  by  Europeans.  In  Boni  not  a foot  of 
ground  has  been  retained.  Waagoo,  or  Waju,  is  still 
less  known,  and  every  other  part  of  the  country  not 
at  all.  All  the  native  states  retain  their  primitive 
greatness,  and  the  most  enlightened  of  them  have 
never  been  visited  by  Europeans.  The  writer  met  a 
Dutch  officer,  who  is  perhaps  the  only  exception  to 
the  above  remark.  He  had  penetrated  some  distance 
in  the  interior,  and  spoke  very  highly  of  the  intelli- 


348 


CELEBES. 


gence  and  hospitality  of  one  of  the  native  queens, 
whose  district  he  visited. 

The  northern  parts  of  Celebes  are  inhabited  by  a 
number  of  native  tribes,  who  have  never  been  con- 
verted to  Mahomedanism,  and  do  not  appear  to  be 
wedded  to  any  heathenish  superstitions.  They  are 
strongly  attached  to  the  Dutch,  and  acknowledge 
them  as  their  superiors  and  lords.  They  appear  early 
to  have  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Christians  in 
Holland,  and  were  furnished  with  a minister  who 
baptized  large  numbers,  and  established  among  them 
schools  with  native  teachers.  Still  this  promising 
field  was  but  scantily  supplied  with  the  means  of  cul- 
ture, and  during  the  ravages  of  the  Trench  revolution 
It  was  with  almost  all  other  Christian  objects,  quite 
forgotten  by  the  churches  at  home.  On  the  arrival  of 
the  first  permanent  missionary  of  the  new  era,  much 
interest  was  manifested  by  the  native  chiefs,  and  the 
descendants  of  Christians,  to  have  schools  re-opened 
among  them.  Such  were  their  predilections  in  favor 
of  Christianity,  that  in  a few  years,  more  than  six  hun- 
dred persons  were  admitted  to  the  church.  Some  of  the 
rajahs  offered  themselves  as  instructors  of  their  own  peo- 
ple. In  1831,  Messrs.  Reidel  and  Schwartz,  missiona- 
ries of  the  Netherlands  society,  arrived  at  the  island. 
After  exploring  the  whole  country,  they  fixed  upon  two 
places  for  their  permanent  abodes.  Reidel  remains  at 
Tondano,  and  Schwartz  at  Longowan.  These  breth- 


SOOLOO. 


349 


ren  are  greatly  encouraged  with  their  prospects  of 
usefulness.  The  schools  in  the  environs  of  Manado 
are  numerous  and  increasing,  the  church  prospers, 
and  the  Lord  evidently  blesses  the  labors  of  his  ser- 
vants. “The  Dutch  government  has  greatly  aided 
the  missionaries  in  the  prosecution  of  their  work. 
There  is  also  a spirit  of  improvement  in  the  external 
circumstances  of  the  natives,  which  always  accom- 
panies the  progress  of  the  pure  Gospel.  We  shall 
soon  hear  more  respecting  the  great  things  which  the 
Redeemer  has  done  for  these  poor  islanders.”* 

Farther  to  the  north  lies  the  island  of  Sooloo,  and 
a small  group  known  by  that  name.  Though  com- 
paratively limited  in  dimensions,  Sooloo  is  represent- 
ed by  Dampier  as  one  of  the  most  interesting  islands 
in  this  part  of  the  world.  It  is  distinguished  for 
the  large  quantity  of  ambergris  thrown  upon  its 
shores,  as  also  for  its  valuable  pearl  fishery.  Beside 
these  sources  of  wealth,  it  abounds  in  wax,  gold,  birds’ 
nests,  beche  de  mer,  and  other  articles  of  traffic.  Wri- 
ters differ  about  the  number  and  character  of  its 
inhabitants.  All  agree  respecting  the  power  of  the 
sultan,  whose  dominions  include  the  neighboring 
islands  and  part  of  the  coast  of  Borneo.  Some  affirm 
that  it  has  “ a vigorous  government,  a numerous  fleet, 
and  an  army  of  fifty  thousand  well  equipped  men, 


Chinese  Repository,  vol.  II. 

30 


350 


MINDANAO. 


animated  by  superstition  and  united  in  hatred  of  the 
Christian  name.”  The  Spaniards  made  two  succes- 
sive attempts  to  reduce  it  to  their  authority,  but  were 
repelled.  In  a third  attack  they  gained  possession, 
but  were  soon  obliged  to  abandon  it.  The  fourth  and 
last  effort  resulted  in  their  disgrace,  and  in  a success- 
ful reprisal  made  by  the  natives,  and  some  of  their 
INIahomedan  neighbors,  who  laid  waste  the  Spanish 
possessions  for  three  years. 

About  north-east  from  Sooloo  is  situated  the  island 
of  Mindanao — Magindanao  of  the  charts.  It  con- 
tains nearly  as  many  square  miles  as  the  largest  of 
the  Philippines.  The  Spaniards  in  the  zenith  of  their 
glorj'^  repeatedly  attempted  the  subjugation  of  this  island 
as  well  as  its  neighbors,  but  were  either  repulsed  or  soon 
obliged  to  abandon  their  dearly  gained  possessions. 
In  one  expedition  it  is  said  they  did  not  even  land, 
being  appalled  by  the  crowd  of  armed  natives  who 
jined  the  shore.  They  did,  however,  succeed  in 
gaining  a foot-hold  on  its  south-western  part,  where 
they  still  have  a small  useless  settlement. 

The  island  is  said  to  be  peopled  throughout,  with 
an  industrious  race  of  men,  many  of  them  from  the 
shores  of  Cambodjia.  The  captain  of  a Cochin-Chi- 
na junk,  who  had  frequently  visited  this  island,  and 
others  of  the  Sooloo  group,  declared  that  they  were 
as  thickly  populated  as  any  part  of  northern  China. 
Sir.  Dalton  was  informed  that  from  Cochin-China 


PALATVAN. 


351 


and  the  native  states,  about  the  mouth  of  Cambodjia 
river,  more  than  one  hundred  proas  of  different  sizes 
sailed  directly  to  Mindanao,  and  that  each  of  them 
contained  from  fifty  to  five  hundred  emigrants. 
Wliether  this  be  exaggeration  or  fact,  another  -writer 
aflirms,  that  “ the  centre  and  southern  part  of  the 
island,  and  particularly  the  shores  of  its  numerous  in- 
lets and  interior  lakes,  are  crowded  with  an  immense 
population.”  “ While  vessels  of  respectable  size  and 
force,  trade  without  danger,  at  these  places,  depreda- 
tions are  often  committed  on  the  defenceless,  both  by 
land  and  sea.”  They  have  a peculiar  language, 
though  they  understand  the  Malay.  Their  religion 
is  Islamism. 

To  the  west  lies  the  island  of  Palawan,  which  is  also 
said  to  contain  a dense  population.  Large  numbers  of 
emigrants  annually  arrive,  who  are  obliged  to  spread 
themselves  over  other  islands.  Magellan  possesses 
much  of  the  character  of  the  two  already  noticed. 

For  the  speedy  conversion  of  the  numerous  tribes 
inhabiting  the  islands  of  these  seas,  including  the  north 
of  Borneo,  where  Spanish  influence  is  not  felt,  and  the 
Catholic  religion  is  not  acknowledged,  we  must  call 
upon  those  who  possess  the  means  of  intercourse  and 
traffic  with  the  nations,  and  whose  invaluable  talent^ 
it  is  hoped,  will  be  no  longer  laid  up  in  a napkin. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


5 

^ , PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 

Including  the  islands  described,  and  extending 
north  to  the  Bashee  passage,  is  the  Philippine  group. 
According  to  the  authority  of  one*  who  resided  some 
time  in  Manilla,  “ the  Spanish  possessions  extend  from 
the  Batan  islands  on  the  north,  to  Mindanao  on  the 
south,  and  from  Paragua  or  Palawan  on  the  west,  to 
the  Mariani  islands  on  the  east ; but  their  sovereignty 
over  all  these  limits  is  not  equally  full.  The  Batan 
islands  appear  to  be  rather  an  ecclesiastical  than  a 
civil  dependency.  The  Spanish  possessions  thus  de- 
fined, comprehend  twenty-eight  provinces,  of  the 
greater  part  of  which  there  are  no  published  accounts. 
They  contain  a population  of  three  millions  and  a half. 
These  are  generally  found  along  the  shores  of  the  sea, 
around  the  bays,  and  upon  the  banks  of  the  rivers  ; 


• C.  W.  King  Esq.  from  whose  manuscript,  in  connection  with  ^ 
small  work  published  a few  years  ago  in  India,  these  extracts  are 
taken. 


30 


354 


PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


the  interior  of  the  larger  islands  being  yet  a dense 
forest.  In  the  depths  of  these  forests  some  wretched 
aborigines  still  exist,  the  relics  of  tribes  dispossessed 
by  their  Malayan  invaders.” 

In  a volume  published  in  India,  and  reviewed  in 
the  Chinese  Repository,  it  is  said  that  in  “ situation, 
riches,  ferthity,  and  salubrity  the  Philippines  are  not 
exceeded.  Nature  has  here  revealed,  according  to  all 
that  po^ts  and  painters  have  imagined,  the  unbounded 
luxuriance  of  Asiatic  scenery.  The  lofty  chains  of 
mountains,  the  rich  and  extensive  slopes  which  form 
their  bases,  the  ever  varying  change  of  forest,  and  sa- 
'vannah,  of  rivers  and  lakes,  the  yet  blazing  volcanoes 
in  the  midst  of  forests,  coeval  perhaps  with  their  first 
eruption — all  stamp  the  works  of  Deity  with  the 
mighty  emblems  of  His  creative  and  destroying  pow- 
ers.” Rice,  sugar,  coffee,  cocoa,  hemp,  tobacco,  cot- 
ton, indigo,  and  many  kinds  of  delicious  fruits,  are 
among  the  articles  of  produce  which  render  these 
islands  highly  valuable. 

Of  the  numerous  inhabitants  of  the  Philippines 
but  a few  hundreds  are  Europeans,  the  remainder  are 
Negroes,  Malays,  Mestizos  and  Creoles.  The  negroes 
are  doubtless  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  islands. 
They  are  small  in  stature,  woolly  headed,  and  thick 
lipped,  some  black,  and  others  of  a mulatto  complex- 
ion. They  live  in  low  huts  of  canes,  sow  rice,  maize, 
potatoes,  (fee.,  and  come  down  to  the  neighboring  vil- 


PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


355 


lages  to  exchange  wax,  deer,  and  the  fruits  of  the 
forest,  for  articles  of  necessity.  They  are  divided 
into  many  classes,  and  are  distinguished  by  peculiar 
habits  and  dialects.  The  most  degraded  of  them  are 
described  as  “naked  vagrants,  without  home,  with- 
out religion,  with  no  other  shelter  than  that  which  the 
rocks  and  trees  afford;  satisfying  the  cravings  of 
hunger  with  wild  fruits  and  unhealthy  roots ; rarely 
using  their  bows  on  the  abundant  game  around  them, 
though  ready  enough  to  draw  them  against  their  fel- 
low men.  Covered  from  head  to  foot  with  loathsome 
scurf  and  eruptions,  their  longest  life  rarely  exceeds 
forty  years.  The  oldest  of  them  is  recognized  as 
chief.  They  inter  their  dead  with  a flint,  steel,  and 
tinder,  a hatchet  and  a piece  of  venison  ; and  the  pas- 
senger is  obliged  to  leave  at  the  grave  a part  of  what 
he  has  obtained  in  barter,  or  caught  in  the  chase.” 

“ The  Malays,  or  Indians,  as  they  are  called  by  the 
Spaniards,  appear  to  have  emigrated  to  this  country 
at  different  times,  and  from  different  parts  of  Borneo 
and  Celebes.  Those  of  the  provinces  are  a proud 
spirited  race  of  men,  possessing  all  the  elements  of 
greatness,  though  for  three  hundred  years  they  had 
been  ground  ta  the  earth  with  oppression — their  spirit 
has  been  tortured  by  abuse  and  contempt,  and  bruta- 
lized by  ignorance.”  The  same  writer  describes  the 
Indian  as  “ brave,  tolerably  faithful,  extremely  sensi- 
ble to  kind  treatment,  and  feelingly  alive  to  injustice 


356 


PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


and  contempt,  proud  of  ancestry,  which  some  of  them 
carry  to  a remote  epoch,  fond  of  dress  and  show, 
hunting,  riding,  and  other  field  exercises  ; but  prone 
to  gambling  and  dissipation.  He  is  active,  industri- 
ous, and  remarkably  ingenious.  He  possesses  an 
acute  ear  and  a good  taste  for  music  and  painting, 
but  little  inclination  for  abstruse  studies.  He  has 
• from  nature  excellent  talents,  but  these  are  useless 
from  want  of  instruction.  The  little  he  has  received 
has  rendered  him  fanatical  in  religious  opinions,  and 
long  contempt  and  hopeless  misery  have  mingled  with 
his  character  a degree  of  apathy  which  nothing  but 
an  entire  change  of  system  and  long  perseverance  will 
efface  from  it.”  This,  however,  does  not  exhibit  the 
worst  features  of  their  character, 

“ Under  the  name  of  Mestizos  are  included  not 
only  the  descendants  of  Spaniards  by  Ii\dian  women, 
but  Mso  those  of  Chinese,  who  are  in  general  whiter 
than  either  parent,  and  carefully  distinguish  them- 
selves from  the  Indians,  The  Mestizos,  with  the  Cre- 
oles of  the  country,  like  those  of  all  colonies,  when  un- 
corrected by  an  European  education,  inherit  the  vices 
of  both  progenitors,  with  scarcely  any  of  the  virtues 
of  either.  Their  character  has  but  few  marked 
traits.  The  principal  ones  are  vanity,  industry,  and 
trading  ingenuity.  Money  is  their  god.  To  obtain  it 
they  assume  all  forms,  promise  and  betray,  submit  to 
every  thing,  trample  and  are  trampled  on.  All  is 


PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


357 


alike  to  them  if  they  can  obtain  their  end.  And 
when  their  wishes  are  answered,  they  dissipate  their 
wealth  in  law-suits,  firing  cannons,  fireworks,  illumi- 
nations, processions  on  feast  days  and  rejoicings,  in 
gifts  to  the  churches,  and  in  gambling.  This  ano- 
maly of  action  is  the  business  of  their  lives.  Too 
proud  to  consider  themselves  as  Indians,  and  not  suf- 
ficiently pure  in  blood  to  be  acknowledged  as  Span-  * 
iards,  they  affect  the  manners  of  the  last,  with  the 
dress  of  the  first,  and  despising,  are  despised  by  both. 
Such  are  the  three  great  classes  of  men  which  may  be 
considered  as  natives  of  the  Philippine  islands.  The 
Creole  Spaniards,  or  those  whose  blood  is  but  little 
mingled  with  Indian  ancestry,  pass  as  Spaniards. 
Many  of  them  are  respectable  merchants  and  men  of 
large  property,  while  others  are  sunk  in  all  the  vices 
of  the  Indians  and  Mestizos.” 

“ The  Chinese  residents  retain  here,  as  in  every 
place,  their  national  character,  active  in  business,  and 
not  above  its  meanest  minutiae,  winning  their  way  by 
pliancy  and  presents — unprincipled  in  acquiring, 
and  gross  and  sensual  in  enjoying  their  gains.  Their 
close  combination,  and  large  share  in  the  most  profi- 
table and  least  laborious  employments,  have  always 
brought  on  them  the  envy  and  hatred  of  the  Indians. 
Upon  the  complaints  of  the  latter,  government  has 
been  led  to  treat  them  severely.  Yet  they  have  proved 
themselves  serviceable  to  the  country,  and  its  other  in- 


353 


PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


habitants.  Few  of  them  are  men  of  much  property, 
though  doing  a great  proportion  of  the  commercial  bu- 
siness of  the  country.  They  procure  licenses  to  remain, 
receive  baptism,  become  Catholics,  intermarry  and  hold 
property,  but  when  able  to  return  to  China,  they  ap- 
pear not  to  regret  leaving  their  families  and  their  faith 
behind.  Their  number  is  probably  twenty  thousand, 
which  is  a mean  between  the  low  official  estimate, 
and  common  opinion.”  Such  is  the  feeling  of  hostil- 
ity towards  the  Chinese,  that  they  have  had  their 
commerce  interrupted,  have  been  expelled  from  the 
island,  and  sometimes  slaughtered  in  great  numbers. 

“ That  this  highly  favored  country  should  have  re. 
mained  till  the  present  day  almost  a forest,  is  a cir- 
cumstance wliich  has  generally  excited  surprise,  and 
has  been  attributed  to  the  indolence  of  the  Spaniards 
and  Indians  ; but  this  is  a superficial  view  of  the  sub- 
ject. The  true  reason  is  “ because  there  is  no  secu- 
rity for  property.”  Does  an  unfortunate  Indian  scrape 
together  a few  dollars  to  buy  a buffalo,  in  which  con- 
sists his  whole  riches  7 Woe  to  him  if  it  be  known  and 
if  his  house  stand  in  a lonely  situation.  He  is  infal- 
hbly  robbed.  Does  he  complam,  and  is  the  robber 
caught?  In  a short  time  he  is  let  loose  again  to  take 
vengeance  on  his  accuser,  and  renew  his  depredations. 
Hundreds  of  families  are  yearly  ruined  in  this  way* 
The  imperfect  mode  of  trial,  both  in  civil  and  criminal 
cases,  lays  them  open  to  a thousand  frauds.” 


PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


359 


That  which  in  the  history  of  these  islands  is  most 
to  be  deplored,  and  which  has  been  perhaps  the  prin- 
cipal cause  of  the  ferocity  and  treachery  which  in  the 
East  cpfar^terise  Manilla  men*  is  their  religion. 
“ The  church  of  Rome  has  here  proselyted  to  itself  the 
entire  population.  The  natives  have  become  bigotted 
Catlrolics.  The  services  of  the  church  are  adminis- 
tered by  nearly  one  thousand  “ frailes,”  “ curas.” 
“ cleros,”  (fcc ; the  first  offices  being  held  by  the  Span- 
ish clergy.”  At  the  head  of  this  colonial  establishment 
is  an  archbishop,  who  has  three  suffragans  and  two 
hundred  and  fifty  Spanish  clergy,  besides  about  eight 
hundred  natives.  The  influence  of  these  priests  is 
unbounded.  They  hold  the  minds  of  the  miserable 
natives  in  complete  subjection,  while  they  themselves 
are  the  slaves  as  well  as  patrons  of  iniquity.  Their 
ministrations  are  confined  to  the  altar  and  the  con- 
fession box.  “ Common  report  attributes  to  the  priests 
lives  deformed  with  the  grossest  immoralities.  In  the 
obscurity  of  their  parishes,  much  concealment  to  their 
licentious  conduct  is  not  attempted,  nor  have  the  ma- 
jority of  them  refinement  enough  to  think  it  becom- 
ing.” One  source  of  vice  and  poverty  among  the 
natives  is  the  number  of  religious  observances  to 

• Such  is  the  revengeful  and  sanguinary  character  of  these 
men,  that  it  is  said  they  afiect  the  insurance  of  the  ships  in 
which  they  are  employed.  The  massacre  of  1820  illustrates  the 
ferocity  of  their  character. 


360 


PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


which  they  are  obliged  to  attend.  “ The  church  has 
marked  out,  exclusive  of  Sundays,  above  forty  days 
in  the  year,  on  which  no  labor  must  be  performed 
throughout  the  island.  Besides  these,  there  are  nu- 
merous local  feasts,  in  honor  of  the  patron  saints  of 
towns  and  churches.  These  feasts  invariably  result 
in  gambling,  drinking,  and  debaucheiy  of  every  de- 
scription. 

While  the  Spaniards  retain  the  possession  of  these 
islands  and  the  priests  bear  the  rule,  we  scarcely  see 
how  any  efforts  can  be  made  for  the  spiritual  welfare 
of  the  natives.  The  importation  of  Bibles  is  strictly 
prohibited.  Every  ship  is  searched,  and  the  most  se- 
rious consequences  might  result  to  those  who  incurred 
the  displeasure  or  even  the  suspicions  of  the  priests. 
The  city  of  Manilla,  which  contains  some  forty  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  is  described  as  an  agreeable 
tropical  residence,  would  be  a most  advantageous 
post  for  missions.  .Let  every  Christian  pray  that  the 
power  of  the  Beast  may  be  destroyed,  and  the  scep- 
tre of  Jesus  be  extended  over  these  perishing  souls. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


LOO  CHOO  ISLANDS. 

North-East  from  the  Philippine  islands,  is  situa- 
ted the  Loo  Choo  group,  of  which  such  interesting 
accounts  have  been  furnished,  both  by  European  and 
Chinese  voyagers.  There  are  about  thirty-six  of  these 
islands,  subject  to  the  same  government,  though  all 
very  limited  in  dimensions.  The  largest  is  only  fifty 
miles  long  and  twelve  or  fifteen  broad.  Like  many  of 
the  other  islands  described,  some  of  them  are  represented 
as  beautiful  spots.  “ From  a commanding  height  above 
the  ships,”  says  an  English  writer,  “the  view  is  in  all  di- 
rections picturesque  and  delightful.  On  the  one  hand 
are  seen  the  distant  lands  rising  from  a wide  expanse  of 
ocean,  while  the  clearness  of  the  water  enables  the  eye 
to  trace  all  the  coral  reefs  which  protect  the  anchorage 
immediately  below.  To  the  south  is  the  city  of  Na- 
pafoo — the  vessels  lying  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  with 
their  streamers  flying ; and  in  the  intermediate  space, 
appear  numerous  hamlets,  scattered  about  on  the 
banks  of  the  rivers  which  meander  in  the  valley  be- 
31 


362 


LOO  CHOO  ISLANDS. 


neath.  Turning  to  the  east,  the  houses  of  Kint-ching, 
the  capital  city,  built  in  their  peculiar  style  are  ob- 
served, opening  from  among  the  lofty  trees  which  sur- 
round and  shade  them,  rising  one  above  another  in 
gentle  ascent  to  the  summit  of  a hiU,  which  is  crown- 
ed by  the  king’s  palace  ; the  interesting  grounds  be- 
tween Napoff  and  Kint-ching, — a distance  of  some 
miles,  being  ornamented  by  a continuation  of  villas 
and  country  houses.  To  the  north,  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach,  the  higher  land  is  covered  with  extensive 
forests.”  The  climate  is  also  said  to  be  “one  of  the 
most  propitious  in  the  world.” 

But  it  is  not  only  the  scenery  and  salubrity  of 
these  islands  which  interest  those  who  visit  them. 
The  mhabitants  themselves,  though  small  in  stature, 
and  effeminate  in  appearance,  are  uniformly  described 
as  persons  of  great  intelligence  and  address.  Their 
politeness,  if  possible,  exceeds  that  of  the  Chinese.  It 
extends  through  all  classes  of  society,  and  often  leads 
to  such  compliments  and  professions  of  friendship,  as 
quite  nonplusses  the  other  party.  “ They  show  more 
good  sense,”  says  a visitor,*  whose  knowledge  of  the 
Chinese  nation  is  extensive,  “ than  we  had  ever  seen 
in  China.  By  their  questions  respecting  the  trade, 
which  several  European  nations  carried  on  at  Canton, 
they  discovered  much  geographical  knowledge.  They 


GutzlafT. 


LOO  CHOO  ISLANDS. 


363 


were  able  to  converse  on  politics  with  great  volubi- 
lity.” 

We  cannot,  however,  from  the  accounts  of  subse- 
quent writers,  fully  confide  in  that  high  estimate  of 
their  character  \^ich  the  first  English  visitors  formed. 
From  the  novelty  of  their  circumstances,  they  no 
doubt  acted  an  assumed  part,  and  made  every  thing 
appear  to  the  best  advantage  before  their  polite  guests. 
From  a Chinese  account,  it  appears  that  one  of  the 
ancient  Idngs  “ laid  the  foundation  of  his  kingdom 
by  military  force,  and  that  till  this  day  there  is,  in  a 
temple  dedicated  to  him,  an  arrow  placed  before  the 
tablets,  on  which  his  name  is  inscribed,  and  which  tra- 
dition says  is  in  conformity  with  his  dying  will,  to 
show  that  his  kingdom  was  founded  by  military  prow- 
ess.”* Gutzlaflf  declares  “they  did  not  hesitate  to  tell  us 
lies  whenever  it  suited  their  purpose  ; but  they  were 
as  ready  to  retract  what  they  had  uttered.  Upon  in- 
quiry we  found  that  they  had  among  them  the  same 
severe  punishments  as  at  Corea ; that  they  possessed 
arms  likewise,  but  are  averse  to  using  them.”  Still 
he,»as  well  as  all  others,  represent  them  as  among  the 
finest  specimens  of  unchristianized  men. 

According  to  the  Chinese  account,  “ the  supreme 
power  is  in  the  hands  of  the  prime  minister,  who  is 
absolute.  All  afiairs  of  the  revenue,  the  designation  of 


Indo-Chinese  Gleaner,  vol.  II. 


364 


LOO  CHOO  ISLANDS. 


the  army,  and  the  infliction  of  punishments,  are  under 
his  control,  although  the  form  of  reporting  to  the  king 
and  receiving  his  sanction,  is  observed.  This  accounts 
for  the  idea  suggested  to  captain  Maxwell  of  having  the 
minister  address  the  king  of  England.  The  letter  was 
declined,  because  it  did  not  come  from  the  Loo  Choo 
king.  They  have  derived  from  China,  the  division 
of  their  officers  into  nine  ranks,  and  they  have  made 
a compendium  of  law,  from  the  Chinese  penal  code. 

The  majority  of  the  people,  as  in  Japan,  under- 
stand the  Chinese  character,  but  do  not  know  how  to 
read  it  in  the  Mandarin  dialect.  Their  own  language 
seems  greatly  to  resemble  the  Japanese.  The  alpha- 
betical writing  is  nearly  of  the  same  form,  and  the 
letters  are  pronounced  in  the  same  way  with  a very 
few  exceptions.  In  imitation  of  the  Chinese  system, 
district  schools  have  been  establislied  by  the  king, 
and  the  examination  of  students  is  conducted  on  the 
same  plan.  The  king  gives  them  an  occasional  ban- 
quet, by  way  of  encouragement.  They  have  set  up 
the  image  of  Confucius,  and  study  carefully  the  com- 
mentary of  Choo-foo-tsze.  The  readiness  with  which 
they  acquire  a smattering  of  the  English  language, 
evinces  an  uncommon  share  of  intellect,  as  well  as 
of  tact  in  its  employment.  “ I was  much  surprised,” 
says  a visitor,  “ to  find  a person  in  such  a spot,  speak 
tolerable  English,  and  was  answered  to  my  inquiries 
on  that  subject,  that  an  English  ship  had  been  at  the 


LOO  CHOO  ISLANDS. 


365 


islands  three  years  before  and  remained  a few  days, 
in  which  time  he  (the  interpreter)  had  learned  what  I 
now  heard.” 

Their  religion  is  that  of  Bndha.  They  have  none 
of  the  sect  of  Taou-sze ; there  are  nuns  among  them. 
They  had  temples  in  the  thirteenth  century,  the 
foundations  of  which  have  long  since  disappeared. 
They  have  imitated  what  they  saw  in  China,  and 
have  even  imported  her  idols,  the  Q.ueen  of  heaven 
and  others.  According  to  their  accounts  a priest  of 
Budha  was  driven  on  their  island  in  a boat  about  A.  D. 
1275.  They  knew  not  whence  he  came  ; but  he  com- 
menced a line  of  priesthood,  which  has  been  kept  up 
ever  since.  As  in  China,  they  have  those  among  them 
who  pretend  to  point  out  propitious  spots  for  graves, 
though  none  of  them  profess  to  understand  astrology. 
As  a nation,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  they 
care  very  little  about  their  superstitions.  “ When 
they  heard  that  we  did  not  worship  idols,”  says  Gutz- 
laff,  “ they  replied,  ‘ We  also  abhor  this  worship ; 
those  which  you  see  here  are  the  property  of  the  Bud- 
hists",  and  we  do  not  batter  our  heads  against  them.’ 
This  has  been  the  general  reply  of  many  Mandarins, 
when  I inquired  upon  this  subject.  They  disavow 
practical  idolatry  because  their  reason  disapproves 
the  theory ; yet  they  do  in  fact  persevere  in  their  un- 
reasonable worship.” 

Their  refusal  to  allow  Europeans  to  trade,  and 
31* 


366 


LOO  CHOO  ISLANDS. 


the  pains  they  uniformly  take  to  prevent  intercourse 
between  strangers  and  themselves,  have  probably  been 
dictated  by  their  more  powerful  neighbor§.  “We  do 
not  doubt,”  says  the  one  quoted,  “ that  they  have  re- 
ceived strict  orders  from  China  to  keep  strangers 
aloof,  and  to  treat  them  with  distance  and  reserve,  yet 
they  were  too  good  natured  to  confess  it.”  If  by  dint 
of  persuasion,  sour  looks,  or  even  lying,  they  can  keep 
foreigners  from  landing,  it  is  always  done.  Their 
reason  for  rejecting  the  application  of  the  “ Lord  Am- 
herst ” to  trade,  was  because  “ their  country  was  poor 
and  unproductive  of  any  thing  which  they  could 
give  in  exchange  for  our  imports  ; that  besides,  they 
had  never  traded  with  the  English,  and  therefore  this 
would  be  an  innovation  contrary  to  law.”  In  this 
case,  however,  they  had  those  to  deal  with,  who, 
though  they  did  not  insist  upon  trading,  were  too 
well  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  such  prohibitions 
to  be  frightened  by  them,  and  who,  contrary  to  their 
wishes  and  whims,  landed  when,  and  wandered 
where,  their  inclinations  directed.  They  objected,  as 
they  had  done  before,  to  the  distribution  of  books ; but 
their  objections  were  overruled  by  the  same  system  of 
apparent  forwardness  and  unyielding  perseverance 
which  had  been  adopted  among  the  Chinese. 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe,  that  here,  as  in 
China,  the  people  would  be  favorable  to  foreign  inter- 
course, and  that  all  the  opposition  to  it  originates  in 


LOO  CHOO  ISLANDS. 


367 


the  government.  When  the  Mandarins  were  out  of 
the  way,  the  people  received  books  and  presents  with 
great  eag^n^ss.  “Whenever  we  gave  any  thing 
inivately^  they  would  gladly  accept  it,  though  they 
took  the  books  in  preference ; but  every  thing  openly 
offered  them  was  always  declined.  The  practice  of 
medicine  drew  crowds  of  patients,  who  felt  the  supe- 
riority of  our  medical  skill,  and  received  Christian 
books  with  gladness.” 

The  mquiry  remains  in  reference  to  these  in- 
teresting heathen,  what  shall  be  done, — what  ought 
to  be  done  for  their  eternal  welfare?  How  shall 
these  lovely  islands  be  reduced  to  the  dominion  of 
Christ  ? INIight  not  ships  visit  them — might  not  their 
objections  to  an  honorable  trade  be  annulled — ought 
we  not  to  distribute  freely  among  them  the  written 
word  ? — and  who  knows  but  that  the  living  teacher 
might  force  himself  upon  them, — soon  dissipate  their 
groundless  fears,  and  prove  to  them  the  advantages  of 
his  presence  and  influence.  They  must  soon  be  an- 
nexed to  the  kingdom  of  Jesus  ; and  it  is  high  time 
that  the  children  of  the  kingdom  should  attempt  some 
plan  for  their  immediate  advantage.  Ye  merchant- 
men, who  have  found  the  pearl  of  great  price,  to  you 
another  appeal  must  be  made.  When  will  you 
connect,  with  the  system  of  missionary  societies, 
missionary  agents,  and  missionary  presses,  mission- 
ary ships  ? 

O 


.-‘J  ^ 


■ ~t 


w 


1 1 a 


att.:>  ‘>^  it»/'«i-  '•i/.'’  ‘ 

•pw^l  W.K.vr  x'>«»-  tV  ■ 

<1  '!•«♦'}'  ^ 

-1^^.:^  V>  5’  ''^*3 

’lifi-hjt', J %¥T^J  b<f»\  -I'ii* 

.V-*  .-■  (f. 

\*  t«»»«fa» *»*:f->t  ru<j<‘Sv»t«i<  ;^t-  J 

- • -■  I 

• , id^.\  . .•/•;. .ii«tlilfr!n.-?>'J-‘«  •'''•  ^ 

-,•  u iiw  •>.•>!■' 

v^  : .,n;  ''jtvT  /-d^^  :.rt'-^-'  «-  r »<► 

. . ' Wj  ^1 


-■•V4i|«J^^  . , 


*'.  -i'^ 


AV  ^';= 

....4  ■ 


' » \-  k i 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


JAPAN. 

Still  farther  to  the  north  is  the  kingdom  or  em- 
pire of  Japan,  which  occupies  a surface  of  more  than 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  square  miles,  and 
contains  a population  of  probably  twenty  or  thirty 
millions  of  souls.  It  consists  of  three  large  islands, 
Niphon,  Kiusiu,  and  Sikokf,  surrounded  with  a mul- 
titude of  smaller  ones,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  others, 
stretching  northward,  over  which  they  exercise  a par- 
tial dominion.  According  to  M.  M.  Brun,  “the 
whole  country  is  full  of  mountains  and  hills,  and  its 
coasts  are  beset  with  steep  rocks,  which  are  opposed 
to  the  waves  of  a stormy  ocean.  The  plains  are  per- 
vaded by  numerous  rivers  and  small  streams.  The 
hills,  the  mountains,  and  the  plains,  present  the  inte- 
resting picture  of  human  industry  .amid  the  traces  of 
the  revolutions  of  nature.  These  islands  experience 
by  turns  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold.  The  summer 
heat  is  frequently  alleviated  by  sea  breezes.  In  win- 
ter the  north  and  north-west  winds  are  exceedingly 
sharp,  and  bring  along  with  them  an  intense  frost. 


370 


JAPAN. 


During  the  whole  year  the  weather  is  variable,  and 
much  rain  falls  in  the  rainy  season,  which  begins  at 
midsummer.  These  genial  rains  conspire  with  hu- 
man labor  and  manure  to  overcome  the  natural  steri- 
lity of  the  soil.  Every  spot  is  under  cultivation,  with 
the  exception  of  the  most  impracticable  mountains. 
Exempt  from  feudal  and  ecclesiastical  exactions,  the 
farmer  cultivates  the  land  with  zeal  and  success.”  In 
the  hands  of  such  laborious  husbandmen  the  country 
is  rendered  exceedingly  productive.  It  is  said  that 
the  tea  shrub  grows  without  culture  in  the  hedges. 
Precious  metals  and  minerals  also  abound. 

There  is  a number  of  large  towns  in  the  empire, 
some  of  which  contain  a population  of  several  hun- 
dred thousands  of  souls.  The  Japanese  are  short 
and  muscular  in  form,  though  graceful  in  their  ac- 
tions, and  exceedingly  polite.  The  complexion  of 
the  people  varies  as  in  China  ; the  women  of  distinc- 
tion, who  are  seldom  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  are 
Eis  fair  as  European  ladies.  Still  there  is  very  little 
beauty  among  them.  “Large  heads,  short  necks, 
broad  snubby  noses,  and  oblong,  small,  and  sunken 
eyes,”  constitute  the  features  of  the  majority.  The 
mode  of  wearing  their  hair,  and  the  quantity  of  oiled 
paper  in  which  they  wrap  themselves  for  their  jour- 
neys, render  them  rather  ludicrous  objects. 

According  to  some  travellers,  “the  laws  of  the 
country  are  few,  and  executed  with  the  utmost  rigor. 


JAPAN. 


371 


and  without  respect  of  persons ; only  that  the  rich, 
when  found  guilty,  are  allowed  to  get  off  by  paying 
pecuniary  fines.  Delinquencies  of  trifling  magnitude 
are  punished  with  death.  The  moral  education  of 
the  children  being  a political  duty,  parents  are  ren- 
dered accountable  for  the  crimes  of  those  whose  early 
vices  they  ought  to  have  repressed.  In  each  village 
there  is  a place  surrounded  with  palisades,  containing 
in  the  middle  an  inscription  in  large  characters,  con- 
sisting of  a code  of  police  regulations.  The  punish- 
ments in  the  seventeenth  century  were  marked  with 
the  utmost  cruelty.  “ Hacking  the  criminal  to  pieces, 
— opening  the  body  with  a knife — suspending  them 
with  iron  hooks  in  their  sides — or  throwing  them  into 
boiling  oil — were  common  modes  of  execution.  As 
in  many  other  unchristianized  nations,  one  is  made 
responsible  for  the  offences  of  another,  and  families 
and  entire  villages  are  visited  with  the  extremity  of 
punishment  for  the  fault  of  an  individual.” 

The  language  of  Japan  is  distinct  from  the  Chi- 
nese, though  the  educated  class  understands  the  Chi- 
nese  character,  and  reads  the  books  in  that  language. 
Their  own  is  alphabetic,  apparently  made  up  of  dis- 
tinct parts  of  the  complicated  signs  employed  in 
China. 

There  are  two  religious  sects  in  the  country,  that 
of  Sinto  and  the  followers  of  Budha.  “ The  first  ac- 
knowledges a Supreme  Being ; but  imagines  that  he 


372 


JAPAN. 


is  too  exalted  to  receive  the  homage  of  men,  or  to 
have  a regard  for  their  petty  interests.  A large  me- 
talic  mirror  is  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  temples,  to 
remind  the  \v6rshippers  that  as  every  spot  on  the 
body  is  there  faithfully  represented,  the  faults  of  the 
soul  are  seen  with  equal  clearness  by  the  eyes  of  the 
Immortals.  The  feasts  and  ceremonies  of  their  wor- 
sliip  are  agreeable  and  cheerful,  because  they  consider 
their  deities  as  beings  who  take  pleasure  in  dispensing 
happiness.  “ Budhism  here  is  said  to  be  so  mixed 
with  the  Sinto,  or  old  religion  of  Japan,  that  it  is 
difficult,  and  perhaps  will  become  in  time  impossible, 
to  make  any  discrimination  between  the  votaries  of 
the  two.” 

The  Jesuits  and  other  Romish  orders  had  a trial 
of  nearly  a century  to  propagate  their  faith  in  Japan. 
As  early  as  1549,  they  commenced  their  proselyting 
operations  in  this  remote  part  of  the  world.  Their 
early  success  stimulated  them  to  great  attempts ; 
several  governors  and  tributary  kings  openly  profess- 
ed Catholicism,  and  in  one  district  the  Jesuits  obtained 
the  entire  prohibition  of  every  other  religion.  But 
their  triumph  was  short.  A persecution  almost  as 
barbarous  and  bloody  as  some  of  their  own,  commen- 
ced and  raged  with  such  fury,  that  tens  of  thousands 
were  massacred  ; their  faith  was  expunged,  and  their 
very  name  made  a term  of  infamy  until  this  day. 
The  distresses  they  endured  are  ascribed  to  various 


JAPAN. 


373 


causes.  The  political  intrigues  of  the  Jesuits,  and  oth- 
er measures  suggested  by  a presumptuous  confidence 
In  their  own  influence,  are  among  the  most  probable 
reasons.  Some  affii'm  that  the  captain  of  a Portii  guese 
vessel,  which  was  taken  by  the  Japanese,  represented 
the  missionaries  as  minions  Cf  the  Portuguese  govern- 
ment, sent  to  prepare  the  way  for  tlieir  conquests.  Oth- 
ers suppose  that  something  ought  to  be  attributed  to 
the  commercial  jealousy  of  the  Dutch,  but  upon  what 
ground  this  allegation  is  macje  we  are  not  informed. 
Had  these  Romish  priests  not  called  themselves  Chris- 
tians, and  attached  the  odium  of  their  conduct  to  the 
emblem  of  the  Christian  faith,  we  should  have  de- 
plored their  sufferings,  but  not  their  failure  and  ex- 
pulsion. 

Our  usual  inquiry  is  yet  to  be  made — "What  can  be 
done  for  the  salvation  of  this  kingdom  ? Notwithstand- 
ing all  the  rigor  of  their  exclusive  laws,merchants  trade 
along  their  coasts,  and  come  in  contact  with  great 
numbers  of  the  natives,  among  whom  the  bread  of  life 
might  be  distributed,  and  perhaps  the  living  teacher  re- 
side. The  following  is  extracted  from  tlie  journals  of 
captains  who  feltan  interest  in  the  propagation  of  Chris- 
tianity, and  who  tvrote  to  the  late  €lditor  of  the  Indo-Chi- 
nese Gleaner  on  the  subject.  Theship  fromwhosevoy- 
‘ age  the  first  statement  is  taken,  had  been  lying  at  Nan- 
gasaki,  in  the  island  of  Kiusiu,  the  only  place  in 
■which  fcfeigil  vessels  are  allowed  by  law  to  anchor. 

32 


374 


JAPAN. 


Even  this  limited  privilege  is  at  present  confined  to  the 
Dutch  and  Chinese  nations.  “ After  quitting  Nangasa- 
ki,  they  landed  occasionally  at  the  villages  on  the  coast, 
and  were  courteously  received  by  the  inhabitants,  who 
were  very  numerous  and  poor,  with  large  famihes  of 
children.”  They  describe  Jesso,  one  of  the  islands 
alluded  to,  and  situated  north  of  Niphon,  as  extensive, 
and  inhabited  by  a mild  and  inoffensive  race  of  men. 
They  are  subject  to  the  Japanese,  who  have  a large 
city  on  the  south  coast  of  the  island,  and  are,  no  doubt  - 
according  to  instructions,  averse  to  intercoTirse  with 
foreigners.  “ The  Sagalien  peninsula  is  situated  im- 
mediately to  the  north  of  Jesso,  from  whence  it  is  dis- 
tant, in  one  part,  but  a few  miles.  The  middle  dis- 
tricts of  the  islands  are  yet  in  the  possession 
of  the  natives,  with  whom,  no  doubt,  a mission- 
ary might  reside  in  as  much  security  as  among 
more  civilized  nations.  Perhaps  the  best  expedient 
which  could  be  adopted  to  plant  a mission  among 
them,  would  be  to  ask  permission  at  one  place,  and  if 
refused,  proceed  to  another,  and  another,  until  every 
one  is  tried  which  held  forth  the  probability  of  suc- 
cess ; and  then,  if  the  application  is  rejected  by  all,  to 
land  and  stay  without  leave.,’’ 

Another  captain,  who  visited  the  famous  capital 
of  Jeddo  or  ledo,  and  who  applied  for  permission 
to  trade,  gives  a most  interesting  account  of  the  place 
and  its  inhabitants.  They  were  obliged  to  land  their 


JAPAN. 


375 


arms  and  ammunition,  dismantle  the  ship,  and  sub- 
mit to  the  closest  possible  surveillance.  “At  first  our 
visitors  were  too  numerous  and  constant,  but  after  the 
first  day  strangers  were  kept  from  us,  and  not  even 
allowed  to  come  afloat ; however  the  shore  was  daily 
crowded  with  spectators,  a very  great  majority  of 
whom  were  females.”  “ On  the  fourth  day  I was 
gratified  by  a visit  from  two  interpreters,  one  of  whom 
was  a perfect  master  of  the  Dutch  language,  and  the 
other  knew  something  of  Russian  ; each  could  speak 
a little  English.”  Their  inquiries  manifested  consid- 
erable acquaintance  with  the  world,  and  especially  its 
politics.  Russia,  France,  England  and  Holland, 
were  all  subjects  of  conversation  and  inquiry:  After 
their  application  to  trade  was  as  usual  refused,  every 
thing  was  returned  to  the  ship,  and  she  was  towed  out 
of  the  bay  by  about  thirty  boats.  “ Expressing  the 
hope,”  continues  the  captain,  “ that  I would  be  allowed 
to  leave  with  the  interpreters  some  trifling  remem- 
brance, they  answered  that  the  laws  of  the  empire 
were  so*  strict,  that  they  could  not  receive  any  thing 
whatever.  I believe  that  all  parties  regretted  the  cir- 
cumstances under  which  we  were  quitting  each  other. 
The  shore  was  not  only  thronged  with  spectators,  but 
many  hundreds  came  by  water  to  the  neighboring 
shores,  to  gratify  their  curiosity  by  a sight  of  the 
strange  vessel.  We  were  scarcely  quitted  by  the  tow 
boats,  when  some  of  these  persons  approached  very 


376 


JAPAN. 


near,  and  at  length  accepted  our  invitation  to  come 
on  board.  Our  decks  were  soon  thronged  in  such  a 
rnanner  that  I was  glad  to  see  a guard  boat  pull  to- 
wards us  for  the  purpose  of  dispersing  the  crowd,  by 
whom  they  were  no  sooner  recognized  than  they  fled 
in  every  direction  ; however  many  quickly  returned,, 
and  when  we  would  point  out  a guard  boat  after- 
wards, some  would  merely  laugh,,  and  say  that  they 
did  not  care  for  them  whilst  at  other  times  they 
would  quit,  and  give  us  to  understand  that  tbej’’  wer© 
afraid  of  being  destroyed.  In  the  course  of  that  day 
and  the  following,  we  had  not  lesA  than  two  thou-, 
sand  persons  on  board,  all  of  whom  were  eager  to 
barter  for  trifles.  Among  other  things  I had  the 
pleasure  of  obtaining  some  little  books,,  and  other  spe- 
cimens of  the  language,  and  distributing  amongst 
our  visitors  two  copies  of  the  Chinese  New  Testa- 
ment, together  with  some  tracts  written  in  Chinese,, 
which  language  appears  to  be  pretty  generally  un- 
derstood in  Japan.  If  inclined  to  set  any  value  on 
ideas,  which  can  be  formed  concerning  the  hearts  o-S 
men,  especially  of  men  so  accustomed  to  disguise  their 
feelings,  as  we  are  informed  the  Japanese  are,  I would 
say  with  much  confidence  that  our  dismissal  was  urri: 
versally  regretted.”  • 

Here,  we  have  the  modes  of  benefitting  this 
nation  suggested,  which  have  been  so  successfully 
employed  by  rCQCht  missionaries  in  China.  The 


JAPAN. 


377 


one  is  acting  against  their  cobweb  prohibitions, 
where  their  salvation  is  concerned  ; and  the  other 
freely  distributing  religious  books  among  them.  A 
third  mode  has  been  mentioned,  in  which  the  mis- 
sionaries fully  concur,  and  that  is  to  go  among  them, 
if  you  can  with  their  permission,  if  not,  without  it : 
and  to  make  the  important  experiment,  whether  our 
fears  and  their  vetoes  necessarily  interfere  with 
our  duty,  and  their  eternal  happiness.  When  a 
nation’s  laws  are  opposed  to  the  laws  and  the  glory 
of  the  King  of  kings,  which  must  be  set  aside  ? 
If  our  object  was  the  extension  of  an  earthly  kingdom, 
it  might  create  some  doubts  whether  we  ought  to  dis- 
regard the  regulations  of  an  empire  ; but  as  long  as 
those  whom  we  oppose  are  opposed  to  the  Sovereign  of 
heaven  and  earth — to  their  own  happiness,  and  the  best 
interests  of  the  universe,  we  may  dismiss  all  apprehen- 
sions, while  we  look  simply  at  the  command,  “ Go  ye 
into  all  the  world  and  preach  the  Gospel  to  every  crea- 
ture.” Besides,  the  policy  of  kings  in  this  case  is  as  ob- 
noxious to  the  wishes  of  their  subjects,  as  it  is  fatal  to 
their  welfare.  We  find  that  at  Japan,  the  Loo  Choo 
islands  and  China,  the  people  are  favorable  to  a free 
intercourse  with  other  nations.  Let  ships  then  be  sent 
fortl»with  such  articles  of  traffic  as  may  be  useful  to 
the  heathen,  accompanied  with  missionaries  and  phy- 
sicians, who  can  benefit  their  souls  and  bodies,  and  go 
in  and  dwell  among  them. 

32’ 


*' 


■ ?*ip.'  -?.  -«»>  « • J*T/ 

* 2 


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“'-‘■'-i  ''  >'.-■■•  * -»  , a|4  * "* 

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‘ ■*""  v"' 


■ -.iiiMt -;J||i.-  ■ '*  ’•'>  -x*^^-ii 


\ 

CHAPTER  XV II  I. 


CONCLUSION. 

In  conclusion  of  this  volume,  the  writer  would  ask 
forgiveness'^ — if  it  be  a fault — for  liaving  wai^ered  so 
far  from  the  route  of  his  journeyings.  His  object  has 
not  been,  simply  that  of  a traveller.  He  was  sent 
forth  as  a “ messenger  of  the  churches,”  to  learn  the 
condition  of  the  kingdoms  and  islands,  which  belong 
to  the  Saviour,  and  which  the  cWurch  is  commanded 
in  the  name  of  her  Sovereign  to  occupy.  Whatever 
may  be  the  impressions  produced  upon  the  minds  of 
the  Christian  public  by  reading  the  accounts  here  col- 
lected— however  difficult  and  discouraging  the  ac- 
complishment of  their  duty  may  appear — still  their 
obligations  remain  imperative, — the  command  of  their 
Saviour  unrevoked,  and  the  condition  of  the  vast  ma- 
jority of  their  race  inexpressibly  wretched.  The  ta- 
lent of  a world’s  salvation  has  been  laid  up  in  a napkin, 
until  men  have  forgotten  that  it  was  ever  intrusted  to 
them.  This  talent  they  are  now  called  upon  to  exer- 
cise. The  slumbers  of  ages  have  been  broken — the 
dreams  of  God’s  people  dissipated,  and  the  oVerpow- 


3S0 


CONCLUSION. 


CLing  conviction  begins  to  flash  upon  every  candid 
mind,  that  there  are  sufficient  means  in  the  possession 
of  Christians  to  convert  all  nations,  and  that,  proba- 
bly, long  before  the  close  of  the  present  century.  Of 
course  we  speak  with  a reference  to  the  self-multiply- 
ing nature  of  our  agency,  and  especially  to  the  exer- 
cise of  that  almighty  power  on  which  alone  we  de- 
pend, and  which  we  believe  would  attend  it. 

These  means  are  diffused  among  all  Christians, 
though  in  unequal  measures;  so  that. he  who  does 
nothing  in  this  work  cannot  be  guiltless,  whatever 
may  be  his  circumstances,  or  sentiments.  From  the 
command  of  God’s  word,  and  the  history  of  many 
past  centuries,  we  conclude,  that  more,  much  more, 
must  be  done,  than  has  ever  been  attempted,  or  even 
thought  practicable.  The  minds  of  Christians  must 
be  enlightened  on  this  subject — their  hearts  enlarged 
— their  purses  opened — their  energies  and  influence 
combined.  No  longer  must  v/e  sing  with  deceitful 
lips 

“ All  that  I am  and  all  I have 
Shall  be  forever  thine  ; 

Whate’er  my  duty  bids  me  give, 

My  cheerful  hands  resign.” 

No  longer  must  we  believe  ourselves  Christians,  and 
yet  disbelieve  the  unequivocal  declaration,  and  express 
command  of  Christ,  “Ye  are  not  your  own,  for  ye  are 


CO^XLVSION. 


381 


bought  with  a price ; therefore  glorify  God  in  your 
body  and  in  your  spirit,  which  are  God’s.” 

The  reproach  of  eighteen  centuries  must  be  \yiped 
away  from  the  sacred  odice  of  the  ministry,  “For 
till  seek  their  own,  not  the  things  which  are  Jesus 
Christ’s.”  With  a world  before  us,  and  the  prospect 
of  the  greatest  usefulness  in  its  most  distant,  desolate 
corner,  no  man  must  imagine  himself  guiltless  in  any 
other  place.  While  the  claims  of  other  countries  are 
as  powerful  as  those  of  England  and  America,  and  the 
command  of  Jesus  is  irrespective  of  places,  we  must 
either  show  that  England  and  America  are  no  better 
supplied  than  those  divisions  of  the  world  ; or  that 
they  ought  to  be  so  ; or  \ve  must  prove  that  we  are 
released  from  a universal  command, — that  we  have  a 
dispensation  to  remain  at  home.  We  do  not  wish  to 
imply  that  there  is  no  work,  of  the  most  important 
kind  to  be  done  at  home — we  believe  that  the  “ single 
eye,”  turn  it  which  way  you  will,  beholds  but  one  ob- 
ject. The  respective  interests  of  the  domestic  and 
foreign  fields  by  no  means  clash ; the  interests  are 
identical.  Still  there  appears  to  be  a conflict,  and  one 
whose  din  is  loo  loud  not  to  be  distinctly  heard, 
Whence  then  its  origin,  and  where  its  seat  ? May  it 
not  be,  is  it  not,  between  the  dictates  of  a half-sancti- 
fied inclination  and  the  demands  of  a half-suppressed 
conscience  ? We  magnify  what  our  judgment  convin- 
ces us  is  comparatively  small— we  wish  to  believe  of 


3S2 


CONCLUSION. 


invisible  dimensions,  what  we  must  close  our  eyes 
not  to  behold. 

Let  the  zeal  of  the  . infatuated  Jesuits  shame  us 
into  action.  Their  native  land  and  its  antipodes  were 
alike  to  them.  “ After  my  return  to  Europe,”  said  one 
of  their  Chinese  missionaries,  “when  my  intention  of 
seeking  laborers  for  this  vineyard  was  divulged,  im- 
mediately there  were  so  many  candidates,  that  there 
is  scarce  a province  of  our  society,  from  which  I have 
not  received  many  letters  from  several  fathers,  not 
only  offering  themselves,  but  earnestly  requesting  me 
to  accept  them  as  soldiers  in  this  enterprise.  As  if  the 
trouble  and  pains  of  these  long  and  dangerous  voy- 
ages, and  the  persecutions  so  certainly  to  be  undergone, 
were  as  nothing  to  this  undertaking.  In  Portugal, 
from  the  two  colleges  of  Coimbra  and  Ebora  alone,  I 
had  a list  of  ninety  persons,  so  desirous  to  labor  in 
this  mission,  that  many  of  them  have  sent  me  very 
long  letters,  all  written  and  signed  with  their  own 
blood.)  witnessing  in  this  manner  that  they  had  a holy 
courage,  that  could  despise  the  threats  of  martyrdom  ; 
offering  cheerfully  to  the  Lord  that  little  blood,  as  a 
testimony  of  the  great  desire  they  had  to  shed  it  for 
His  sake.* 

Are  there  no  ministers  of  the  sanctuary,  whose 
usefuhiess  would  be  greatly  increased  by  leaving  their 

• Samedo’s  History  of  China,  quoted  in  the  Chin.  Repos,  vol.  I, 
page  487. 


CONCLUSION. 


383 


people  and  their  country,  and  following  in  the  steps  of 
these  blinded  men.  How  many,  alas ! are  content 
with  a limited  sphere  of  labor,  when  kingdoms  and 
empires  lie  in  utter  destitution.  Energies  are  exhaus- 
ted upon  trifles,  talents  are  buried,  and  men  who  might 
be  exceedingly  useful  are  voluntarily  incarcerated. 
Those  who  are  commanded  “ to  proclaim  liberty  to  the 
captives,  and  the  opening  of  the  prison  to  them  that 
are  bound,”  must  have  their  message  first  proclaimed 
to  themselves.  The  missionary  work  demands  the 
most  exalted  talent,  and  extensive  learning,  and 
consequently  the  arguments  employed  for  remain- 
ing at  home,  are  the  very  ones  which  render  the  more 
imperative  the  duty  of  going  abroad.  It  is  true  the 
work  can  accommodate  itself  to  every  order  of  talent 
and  acquirement,  and  so  can  the  highest  stations  in 
Christian  lands  ; but  the  result  in  both  cases  will  be 
alike.  The  duty  of  acquiring  languages,  transla- 
ting, writing,  instructing  on  all  subjects,  answering  all 
questions,  reasoning,  devising  facilities,  managing 
events,  in  many  cases  practising  medicine,  and  preach- 
ing to  difierent  classes,  often  in  different  languages, 
will  soon  convince  those  who  make  the  trial,  that 
none  can  be  too  well  qualified  for  labors  among 
the  heathen.  We  speak  not  to  discourage  any,  but  to 
correct  the  opinions  of  some.  None  need  despair  of 
usefulness — all  who  feel  constrained  by  the  love  of 
Christ  should  enlist  in  this  service ; but  the  last  ob- 
jection which  ought  to  be  conceived,  is  that  the  minds 


6Si 


COiiCLtSION. 


of  any  are  so  vigorous  and  richly  furnished,  that  the 
most  difficult  project  of  earth,  opposed  by  all  the  fot- 
>;esof  hell  is  not  sufficient  to  employ  their  powers. 

And  why  is  it  that  so  few  of  our  theological  stu- 
dents engage  in  foreign  missions?  How  is  it  that 
^uch  numbers  never  prayerfully  agitate  the  question 
of  duty  on  this  subject — never  imagine  that  they 
nhght  possibly  be  more  useful  where  millions  have  no 
teacher,  than  where  hundreds  are  ready  to  occupy  the 
places  at  which  they  usttally  aim-.  With  a.U  their  argu- 
ments oh  the  advantages  of  concentrated  effort,  to 
which  \ve  subscribe ; and  with  all  the  growmg  de- 
mands of  our  own  countrjy  the  supply  of  which  will 
no  doubt  hasten  the  universal  triumph  of  the  Gospel, 
— do  they  not  know,  is  it  not  the  opinion  of  all  in 
whose  judgment  they  have  the  greatest  confidence,  that 
those  who  go  abroad,  increase,  and  not  diminish  the 
effective  agency  at  home?  The  spirit  and  the  influence 
of  the  missionary  are  among  the  most  powerful  means 
of  av/akeiiing  the  churches,  and  directing  the  atten- 
tion of  the  young  to  her  highest  offices.  Even  the 
infant’s  mind  is  arrested  by  missionary  eflbrts,  and 
thus  pre-occupied  by  sentiments,  which  in  many  cases 
control  its  future  life.  We  look  with  peculiar  in- 
terest to  the  young  men  in  the  theological  seminaries. 
We  hear  of  numbers  who  enter  the  schools,  under  the 
solemn  conviction,  that  it  is  their  duty  to  devote  their 
lives  to  the  heathen.  Their  friends,  theif  fellow  stu- 
dents, and  often  the  churches  regard  them  as  virtu- 


CONCLUSION. 


385 


ally  set  apart  to  the  work.  They  are  commended  for 
their  zeal — their  example  is  employed  in  stimulating 
others  to  high  and  self-denying  efforts ; but  alas ! before 
they  close  their  preparatory  studies — when  the  hour 
of  decision  for  action  has  come,  the  hearts  which 
glowed  with  so  much  ardor  have  sunk  into  apathy — 
the  cries  of  the  perishing  are  no  longer  heard,  and 
the  subject  of  missions  is  dismissed,  as  though  their 
obligations  were  cancelled — the  world  Christianized. 
And  whence  this  leaving  of  their  first  love  ? What  in- 
fluence exists  in  the  seminaries,  which  proves  so  fatal 
to  the  hopes  of  God’s  people  and  the  happiness  of  his 
creatures  ! 

One  cause  has  been  assigned,  which  we  shudder 
to  contemplate.  It  is  said  that  in  some  seminaries, 
those  who  retain  their  zeal  in  the  cause  of  missions, 
are  classed  by  their  aspiring  fellows  among  the  good 
men,  in  other  words,  men  of  an  inferior  order  of  intel- 
lect ; and  to  escape  the  association  of  ordinary  pow- 
ers, even  with  elevated  piety,  many  are  tempted  to 
withdraw  themselves  from  their  less  distinguished 
brethren.  God  grant  for  his  own  honor,  and  the  wel- 
fare of  the  churches,  that  this  sentiment,  which  breathes 
so  much  of  the  spirit  of  its  inspirer,  may  alarm  every 
mind  which  it  enters.  With  whomsoever  this  senti- 
ment exists,  we  cannot  but  fear  that  such  servants  are 
above  their  master.  They  must  either  believe  that  the 
very  command  under  which  they  themselves  pro- 
33 


386 


CONCLUSION. 


fess  to  be  preparing  for  the  ministry  is  not  true ; 
or  that  Christ  has  devolved  the  most  difficult  and 
important  concerns  of  his  kingdom  upon  the  fee- 
blest instruments ; or  else  they  ought  to  perceive 
that  they  arc  indisposed  to  comply  with  duty,  solely 
because  it  is  arduous  and  self-denying. 

The  fact  we  have  stated  in  regard  to  the  change  of 
mind,  rather  of  feeling  in  students  exists,  we  fear,  in  all 
theological  schools ; the  reason  assigned,  we  hope  is 
limited  to  a very  few.  What  other  cause  then  may  pro- 
duce this  paralyzing  effect  1 Is  there  nothing  to  be  at- 
tributed to  the  influence  of  professors?  We  hav'e  not 
heard  that  any  are  opposed  to  foreign  missions.  We 
know  that  the  talents  and  influence  of  many  are  conse- 
crated to  this  cause.  Still  is  it  not  evident,  that  either 
the  demands  of  our  own  country  (we  speak  not  of  our 
Western  missionary  field,)  must  be  exhibited  in  sem- 
inaries, as-superior  to  those  of  heathen  nations,  or  else 
there  must  be  a great  declension  in  the  piety  of  those 
students  who  change  their  purpose,  without  the  least 
change  of  judgment  ? With  the  highest  opinion  of  the 
most  extensive  and  varied  attainments  when  sanctified, 
still  we  fully  believe  that  the  salvation  of  the  world  de- 
pends infinitely  more  upon  the  right  principles  of  the 
heart,  than  upon  any  training  and  furnishing  of  intel- 
lect, in  which  our  venerable  professors  may  assist. 
The  diflerence  is  this ; piety — we  must  not  confound  it 
with  a morbid,  spurious  feeling  of  that  name — piety 


CONCLUSION. 


387 


•will  stimulate  to  all  efibrts,  including,  the  culture  of 
the  mind ; whereas  intellect  of  any  character  engaged 
in  the  ministry,  and  not  directed  by  its  proper  spirit, 
has  generally  proved  of  no  permanent  advantage  to 
mankind.  We  sympathize  with  those  who  have  been 
called  to  the  responsible  duty  of  preparing  “ the  lead- 
ers of  God’s  people,”  for  their  high  stations  ; and  ear- 
nestly pray,  as  the  churches  should  pray,  that  all  who 
have  such  an  important  direction  in  the  spiritual 
concerns  of  the  world,  may  be  under  the  especial  guid- 
ance of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

One  request  we  would  make  of  each  student  be- 
fore leaving  this  subject — that  he  would  set  apart  at 
least  one  entire  day  in  each  year  of  his  course,  to  as- 
certain by  prayer  and  fasting,  whether  it  is  his  duty 
to  remain  in  the  bosom  of  the  church,  or  to  extend 
her  rich  blessings  to  those  who  cannot  otherwise  enjoy 
them,  and  who  must  perish  without  them.  Place 
yourself  before  the  throne  of  the  Judge — gather  around 
you  that  part  of  the  great  assembly  whom  you  might 
influence  through  direct  efforts,  or  an  intermediate 
agency,  and  impressed  with  all  the  associations  of  that 
day,  let  the  question  of  your  duty  be  determin- 
ed— and  so  determined  that  you  shall  not  be  confound- 
ed, when  the  judgment  scene  is  present.  Multi- 
tudes appear  to  take  it  for  granted  that  they  must  re- 
main at  home,  without  examining  the  subject.  What- 
ever may  be  their  specific  object  in  entering  the 


3SS 


CONCLUSION. 


ministry,  we  beg  them  to  consider,  whether  it  may 
not  be  better  gained  by  the  influence  they  may  exert 
abroad,  and  from  abroad,  than  by  remaining  in  their 
native  country. 

But  the  work  of  evangelizing  the  world,  demands 
more  than  the  labors  of  the  ordained  missionary. 
There  must  be  teachers,  physicians,  merchants,  in 
places  mechanics — Christian  communities  who  can 
employ  all  the  various  means  by  which  the  heathen 
may  be  influenced,  and  at  the  same  time  exhibit  to 
them  an  example  of  the  blessedness,  in  which  they 
labor  to  have  them  participate.  The  advantage  of 
sending  colonies,  and  not  merely  missionaries,  is  obvi- 
ous to  all  who  have  been  abroad.  The  work  would 
advance  in  proportion  to  the  variety  of  plans  adopt- 
ed, and  the  number  of  instruments  employed.  Com- 
merce and  medicine  harmonize  admirably  with  schools, 
the  press,  distribution,  and  preaching.  And  if  na- 
tive agency  is  to  be  efficiently  engaged  in  the  mission- 
ary work,  it  can  never  be  prepared  with  the  same 
facility  and  perfection,  as  in  colonies  of  this  descrip- 
tion. Besides,  labor  and  expense  would  be  greatly 
economized.  Those  numerous  domestic  duties,  which 
consume  so  much  of  the  time  of  single  missionaries, 
or  families,  might  be  devolved  upon  a few ; while 
the  majority  of  both  sexes  were  at  liberty  to  labor 
exclusively  for  the  heathen. 

Of  the  hundreds  of  physicians  who  take  their 


CONCLUSION. 


389 


diplomas  every  year,  are  there  none  with  the  vows  of 
God  upon  them  ? None  who  will  unite  in  a work  so 
glorious,  and  where  their  services  are  so  greatly  need- 
ed. In  many  stations  they  can  accomplish  more  than 
ordained  missionaries.  They  have  the  best  passport 
to  the  dwellings,  and  hearts  of  the  heathen — they 
possess  a magnet,  whose  attraction  gathers  crowds,  and 
reaches  to  places  where  we  can  never  penetrate.  While 
they  can  accomplish  the  most  important  part  of  a 
missionary’s  duties,  they  can  do  it  under  much  greater 
advantages  than  those  who  have  not  their  knowledge. 
Patients  feel  themselves  under  obligations,  and  are 
disposed  to  comply  with  any  methods  which  may  be 
devised  for  their  spiritual  benefit.  Congregations 
have  been  thus  formed,  books  widely  distributed,  in- 
strumentality increased,  and  souls  saved ; besides, 
the  perishing  have  been  rescued  from  death,  the  suf- 
fering relieved,  and  the  hearts  of  those  who  would 
have  been  widowed,  and  fatherless  made  to  sing  for  joy . 

Every  argument  which  can  be  addressed  to  others, 
applies  to  physicians  ; while  they  have  but  few  of  the 
reasons  for  refusing,  which  ministers  and  students 
generally  offer.  They  do  not  usually  remain  at  home 
from  a sense  of  duty ; they  find  it  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult to  obtain  situations  and  patronage.  Their  ser- 
vices may  be  generally  dispensed  with,  or  performed 
by  others  who  would  gladly  become  their  substitutes. 
What  then  should  prevent  numbers  from  discharging 
33* 


390 


CONCLUSION. 


this  important  and  commanding  duty  ? How  can  they 
deliver  their  skirts  from  the  blood  of  souls,  if  they  re- 
fuse? If  their  education  have  been  extensive — if 
they  possess  much  skill  and  experience,  the  more  are 
they  needed,  where  so  much  may  depend  upon  their 
success.  The  writer  had  an  application  for  medical 
aid  from  the  second  king  of  Siam.  He  was  absent 
at  the  time,  and  did  not  return  until  after  the  death  of 
the  king.  How  readily  might  a simple  effort  in  such 
instances  lead  to  the  most  desirable  results. 

Merchants  also  are  capable  of  exerting  the  most 
salutary  influence  among  Pagan  nations.  They,  top, 
like  physicians,  usually  draw  multitudes  around  them, 
who  might  be  instructed  both  orally,  and  by  books. 
Besides  this,  they  would  stimulate  to  labor,  by  open- 
ing a current  for  its  proceeds.  They  would  improve 
the  habits  of  the  natives  by  introducing  the  useful  arts, 
and  meliorating  customs  of  civilized  life.  They 
would  commend  their  religion  by  exemplifying  its 
principles  in  all  their  ordinary  pursuits.  The  con- 
nections which  they  might  establish,  and  the  obliga- 
tions which  they  could  impose,  might  be  employed  for 
the  spiritual  welfare  of  multitudes.  Are  there  none 
who  possess  the  means  of  trade,  disposed  to  embark 
their  capital  in  such  an  interest  ? Are  there  none 
whose  engagements  are  not  necessary  to  themselves, 
nor  sufficiently  available  to  the  great  objects  of  benevo- 
lence to  prevent  them  from  leaving  their  country  ? The 


CONCLUSION. 


391 


churches  can  furnish  numbers  unencumbered  with 
domestic  cares ; or  if  married,  without  families.  What 
should  prevent  such  from  engaging  in  this,  or  other 
useful  employments,  when  they  have  nothing  to  keep 
them  at  home,  and  many  of  them  need  not  depend 
upon  the  Christian  public  for  support  ? When  will  the 
days  of  primitive  Christianity  return,  when  every 
Christian  shall  consider  his  possessions  the  church’s 
property,  and  himself  a servant  of  all ! 

The  co-operation  and  influence  of  ladies  are  also 
greatly  needed  in  evangelizing  the  heathen.  In  many 
countries  they  alone  have  access  to  those  of  their  own 
sex.  The  only  one  who  ever  resided  at  Siam  was 
admitted  within  the  palace  walls,  and  among  the  nu- 
merous wives  of  the  princes,  and  chief  men  of  the 
country.  Infant  schools  and  female  schools  are  their 
department,  and  none  can  succeed  as  well  as  they 
in  obtaining  scholars,  and  instructing  and  advising 
mothers.  Ladies  ought  to  accompany  every  mission 
family.  The  appeal  to  them  is  peculiarly  affecting. 
It  is  the  language  of  the  oppressed  and  miserable — 
the  united  voice  of  more  than  one  half  of  their  sex. 
The  simple  control  of  mothers  over  children  is  enough 
to  show,  how  much  the  happiness  and  moral  habits  of 
a nation  depend  upon  the  elevation  of  females.  Let 
this  subject  then  enter  into  the  prayers  and  efforts  of 
Christian  ladies,  and  such  measures  be  devised  and 
such  teachers  sent  forth,  as  shall  change  the  condition 


392 


CONCLUSION. 


of  the  sex,  and  place  them  in  the  sphere,  which,  in 
mercy  to  the  world  as  well  as  themselves,  they  were 
designed  to  occupy. 

There  is  still  another  class  in  society,  who  if  we  can 
judge  from  external  circumstances  of  providence,  are 
laid  under  peculiar  obligations  to  devote  themselves 
to  this  work.  There  are  men  of  property  who  are  ' 
engaged  in  no  business,  and  have  no  peculiar  obsta- 
cles to  such  an  undertaking,  whose  presence,  coun- 
sels, prayers,  and  fruids  would  greatly  redound  to  their 
Saviour’s  glory  in  heathen  lands.  What  hinders 
such  from  employing  themselves,  and  their  important 
talent,  in  benefitting'a  world  ? Has  their  wealth  wholly 
or  even  partially  released  them  from  the  obligation  of 
glorifying  God  to  the  utmost  of  their  ability  ? Has  a 
man  born  to  a fortune,  or  successful  in  acquiring  one, 
any  greater  liberty  to  consult  his  own  pleasure  in  the 
disposal  of  himself  and  his  property,  than  another? 
“ What  has  he,  that  he  has  not  received,”  and  what 
has  he  received  which  he  is  not  bound  “ to  minister 
according  to  the  ability  which  God  has  given  him, 
that  God  in  all  tilings  may  be  glorified  through  Jesus 
Christ.” 

But  without  specifying  other  classes  in  society, 
we  would  inquire  of  all,  whom  God  has  sanctified  to 
himself ; have  you  prayerfully  contemplated  the  ob- 
ligations under  which  you  lie,  to  advance  the  great 

design,  which  brought  the  Saviour  from  His  throne  : 

0/0  / 


CONCLUSION. 


393 


and  for  which  He  now  reigns  ? If  you  have  lived  in 
neglect  of  this  duty  before,  ascend  now  some  eminence 
which  commands  the  world — -gaze  upon  the  scene  of 
desolation  and  misery,  which  spreads  on  every  side — 
hear  the  appeals  for  help,  from  a thousand  millions  of 
souls,  multiplying  and  perishing  every  hour ; and 
then  with  the  first  prayer  of  Paul  upon  your  lips, 
build  an  altar  to  Jehovah  Sabaoth,  and  ofier  upon  it 
“ yourselves  a living  sacrifice,  holy,  acceptable  unto 
God,  which  is  your  reasonable  service.’’’’  With  such 
a spirit  and  such  an  oflfering,  the  path  of  your  duty  will 
be  made  plain. 

To  those  who  feel  themselves  under  obligations  to 
remain  at  home,  who  have  the  evidence  of  an  enlight- 
ened conscience,  and  a directing  providence  in  favor 
of  their  present  lot,  we  must  look  for  the  most  valua- 
ble services  in  the  kingdom  of  Christ.  They  must 
elevate  the  standard  of  piety  by  example  and  influ- 
ence— they  must  furnish  the  world  with  suitable  men, 
and  necessary  means — and  above  all,  they  must  pray 
“ for  all  men”  “ always,  with  all  prayer,  and  supplica- 
tion in  the  spirit.” 

Ye  mothers,  did  you  realize  your  solemn  vows,  and 
unalienable  obligations  to  Christ,  when  you  offered 
your  children  to  Him  at  the  baptismal  font  ? He  ac- 
cepted His  own  and  returned  them,  not  as  yours,  but  to 
be  nourished,  and  educated  for  His  service.  Yours  is 
a prominent  part  in  the  conversion  of  the  world.  The 


394 


CONCLUSION. 


army  which  the  King  of  kings  and  Lord  of  lords 
is  to  lead  on  through  successive  victory  to  the  final 
conquest  of  the  nations,  He  looks  to  you  to  replenish. 
O what  miseiy  must  be  endured,  what  guilt  incurred, 
if  faithless  to  your  charge.  And  O,  what  happiness  dif- 
fused in  the  kingdom  of  Christ — through  the  heaven 
of  heavens,  if  your  vows  are  paid,  your  work  per- 
formed ! 

And  ye  teachers  of  the  young  in  infant  schools, 
Sabbath  schools,  and  all  the  various  institutions  of  the 
land,  we  plead  with  you,  in  behalf  of  the  children 
committed  to  your  care,  and  the  millions  upon  whom 
they  are  to  exert  a saving  or  destructive  influence. 
Make  their  salvation  your  chief  concern,  and  leave 
no  means  untried  for  its  attainment.  In  the  name  of 
the  Saviour,  we  ask  the  co-operation  of  all  God’s  peo- 
ple in  hastening  His  universal  reign.  We  would 
plead  with  the  wealthy — ^the  learned — the  eloquent — 
tJie  influential — all  who  can  act — all  who  can  pray. 
When  every  Christian  lives  for  the  conversion  of  the 
world,  he  shall  discharge  his  dut}'’ — and  the  world 
shall  soon  be  saved.  O that  He,  with  whom  is  the 
promise  and  the  power, — without  whom  agents  can- 
not be  qualified,  nor  agency  successAil, — would  soon 
raise  up  such  men  and  suggest  such  measures,  as  his 
Spirit  may  employ  in  subduing  the  world  to  Himself ! 


CONCLUSION. 


395 


After  leaving  the  coast  of  Borneo,  where  the  read- 
er had  the  last  glimpse  of  the  ship,  we  passed 
through  the  straits  of  Sunda,  and  on  the  night  of 
August  16th  made  the  memorable  island  of  St.  Helena, 
Early  on  the  morning  of  the  17th,  found  ourselves 
within  a few  miles  of  its  shore.  It  is  difficult  to  con- 
ceive any  thing  more  rugged  and  inhospitable  than 
the  aspect  from  this  approach.  Not  a tree,  scarcely 
a tuft  of  grass,  could  be  discerned.  A flag-staff  or 
two,  a few  small  batteries,  and  soldiers’  lodgings  were 
all  that  indicated  the  presence  of  man.  The  roclcs 
running  Hielow  in  perpendicular  strata,  and  above 
in  horizontal,  had  a curious  appearance.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  side  of  the  island,  the  hand  of  man  be- 
came more  visible.  We  were  hailed  from  a rock-  * 
perched  fort,  and  ordered  to  send  a boat  on  shore. 
This  punishment,  however,  was  not  inflicted,  upon 
hearing  “ All’s  well.”  About  seven,  a.  m.  we  opened 
James’  Valley  and  town,  and  anchored.  Here  the 
scene  changed.  The  town,  crowded  in  the  fissure  of 
lofty  hills,  as  though  torn  asunder  for  the  purpose — 
tlie  forts  and  dwellings  and  telegraphs  scattered  over 
their  sides  and  summits — the  labored  and  winding 
roads,  leading  up  their  steep  acclivities — the  detached 
pieces  of  ordnance,  pointingfrom  the  tops  of  the  rocks; 
as  well  as  the  trees  and  shrubbeiy,  generally  brought 
from  other  climes,  and  giving  a scanty  clothing  to 
some  of  the  elevations,  proclaimed  the  triumph  of 


396 


CONCLUSION. 


human  intellect  and  art,  over  the  most  insurmountable 
obstacles  of  nature. 

As  a matter  of  course,  we  visited  Buonaparte’s 
tomb.  An  order  from  the  governor  admits  3mu  with- 
in the  inclosure,  and  entitles  you  to  the  attentions,  .. 
and  tale  of  the  old  guard;  and  a branch  or  two  of  the/  / 
overhanging  willows.  The  tomb  is  composed  of  ^ 
three  gianite  slabs,  placed  longitudinally  over  the 
body.  An  iron  grating  surrounds  it.  Thoughts  of 
human  grandeur  and  insignificance,  with  the  high 
and  awful  associations  of  eternity,  follow  in  rapid  suc- 
cession, as  jmu  tread  over  the  mouldered  relics  of  the 
hero.  The  struggle  of  a giant  for  the  universe,  of 
an  insect  for  its  microscopic  kingdom,  have  the  same 
finale.  Though  “ this  is  the  man  that  made  the  earth  to 
tremble,  that  did  shake  kingdoms,”  yet  the  meanest 
slaves,  that  have  ever  left  their  ignoble  dust  upon  the 
island,  may  address  him  in  the  sublime  strains  of  the 
prophet — “ Art  thou  also  become  weak  as  we,  art  thou 
become  like  unto  us?  How  art  thou  fallen  from  heaven, 

O greater  than  Lucifer,*  son  of  the  morning  how  art 
thou  cut  down  to  the  ground,  which  didst  weaken  the 
nations ! — the  worm  is  spread  under  thee  and  the  worms 
cover  thee.”  But  there  is  another,  and  more  impor- 
tant sense  in  which  this  equality  may  be  claimed  by 
all  from  all.  Low  and  ephemeral  indeed  are  the 


* King  of  Babylon,  See  fourth  verse. 


CONCLUSION. 


397 


envied  distinctions  of  earth,  when  compared,  with 
the  bright  unfading  glories  of  a future  world.  To 
pass  from  the  highest  honors  of  life  into  “ shame  and 
everlasting  contempt,”  how  awful ! — to  awaken  from 
the  deepest  obscurity,  to  the  dignity  of  sons  of  God, 
how  sublime  ! 

We  visited  Longwood — now  a stable,  and  at  best, 
a mean  contracted  residence.  Five  rooms  of  most 
straitened  dimensions  were  all  the  apartments  of  him, 
who  before  controlled  a greater  number  of  kingdoms. 
Such  a variety  of  scenery  as  burst  upon  the  view, 
from  eviery  elevated  position  of  this  romantic  island, 
is  seldom  found,  within  the  same  compass/-  The  situ- 
ations for  country-seats,  which  adorn  the  uneven  face 
of  the  high  land,  are  well  selected,  and  some  spots  are* 
in  beautiful  cultivation.  Blooming  valleys,  and  sterile 
hills  accost  you  at  one  turn,  and  smiling  hills  and 
barren  vales  amuse  you  at  another.  And  what  is 
more  sublime  than  all,  is  the  vast  expanse  of  ocean 
which  this  elevation  commands,  with  its  varied  lights 
and  shadows,  spreading  in  boundless  perspective,  and 
losing  itself  high  in  the  distant  heavens. 

There  are  two  churches,  and  two  chaplains  on 
the  island.  Our  stay  was  too  short  to  allow  of  form- 
ing many  acquaintance.  I was  happy  in  being  intro- 
duced to  two  or  three  persons,  who  evinced  the  spirit 
of  genuine  piety,  and  iny  short  visit  was  much  cheered 
by  the  very  kind  and  hospitable  attentions  received 

31 


398 


CONCLUSION. 


from  the  American  consul,  W.  Carroll,  Esq.  On  the 
morning  of  the  18th  we  weighed  anchor,  and  after 
encountering  a terrific  gale  ofi"  the  western  islands,  in 
which  the  rudder-head  gave  way,  arrived  in  England 
the  middle  of  October,  after  a passage  of  five  months. 
For  the  restoration  of  health,  and  in  prosecution  of 
his  missionary  duties,  the  writer  visited  various  parts 
of  Great  Britain  and  the  continent.  Much  interest 
was  every  where  awakened  in  behalf  of  the  heathen, 
especially  the  Utra-gauges  nations.  i\Jl  felt  that  it 
was  a worlc  which  claimed  the  co-operation  of  the 
Christian  world. 

“ The  unity  of  the  spirit,”  was  strongly  realized 
while  .sojourning  among  the  Christians  of  Great  Bri- 
tain, France,  Holland,  Germany,  Switzerland.  With 
‘■”;pll  the  difierences  of  customs,  languages,  politics,  and 
sects,  “all  have  been  baptized  into  one  body,  and 
made  to  drink  of  one  spirit,”  and  all  agree  in  the  be- 
lief that  the  Sa\iour  looks  to  His  churches  for  the 
speedy  extension  of  his  ^kingdom,  throughout  the 
world.  O,  when  shall  wars  cease,  and  those  barriers  of 
national  and  ecclesiastical  separation,  which  have  so 
long  divided  brethren,  fall  like  the  walls  of  Jericho, 
and  lie  under  the  perpetual  ban  of  Joshua’s  great  An- 
titype! 


FINIS. 


/ 


^"'"a,  and  the 


